3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound

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VincenzaV

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Hi, 3M's description of this is:

Heavy cutting rubbing compound. Aggressive compound that removes 1000 and finer sand scratches on all types of paint surfaces.Can be used by hand or machine.

I'm learning, so this means that this compound is used AFTER 1000, but BEFORE a polish (Like my 3M Finesse It #2) correct or 1500 grit sandpaper?


Thank you so much!
 
VincenzaV said:
Hi, 3M's description of this is:

Heavy cutting rubbing compound. Aggressive compound that removes 1000 and finer sand scratches on all types of paint surfaces.Can be used by hand or machine.

I'm learning, so this means that this compound is used AFTER 1000, but BEFORE a polish (Like my 3M Finesse It #2) ...

Thank you so much!
Click to expand...
This would be the order...1000 grit paper, super duty compound, polish, then seal.

What are you working on that you would need such a stout product?

What other compounds and polishes do you have along with having additional finer grits of papers?
 
Hi Bill. Thank you for your reply!

I am restoring severely yellowed headlights.

To add to my sandpaper entourage, I now have packs of:
-400
-600
-800
-1000
-1500

Would the SD compound still fall after the 1000 grit (but before or after the 1500)?

-Then polish
-Then seal?

So for liquids, I have the:
-3M SD Rubbing Comp
-3M Finesse It #2
-Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
-Novus Heavy Scratch Remover
-Novus Fine Scratch Remover

I got the Novus for free, so I don't have a particular allegiance to it and are open to another scratch remover product. I real want to stick to American made when I can, like the 3M stuff I have.
 
VincenzaV said:
Hi Bill. Thank you for your reply!

I am restoring severely yellowed headlights.

To add to my sandpaper entourage, I now have packs of:
-400
-600
-800
-1000
-1500

Would the SD compound still fall after the 1000 grit (but before or after the 1500)?

-Then polish
-Then seal?

So for liquids, I have the:
-3M SD Rubbing Comp
-3M Finesse It #2
-Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
-Novus Heavy Scratch Remover
-Novus Fine Scratch Remover

I got the Novus for free, so I don't have a particular allegiance to it and are open to another scratch remover product. I real want to stick to American made when I can, like the 3M stuff I have.
Click to expand...

If that 3M compound doesn't take out the 1500 grit sanding marks go 3000 then compound. I usually sand with 3000 as my last sanding step.
 
Awesome advice Dave. I'll order some 3000 grit now. Is it necessary to go to 2000 in-between, meaning is the 1500 to 3000 too big of a jump?

On the 3000, why/when would you use the 3M paper or the Trizact? Is one less aggressive or better?
 
Have you started with the least aggressive method? Are you sure it needed 1000 grit sanding? Try your fineness it #2 and see if that works. If not try the compound. Then if they both fail you may need to sand but start with the 1500 you have.

I have done quite a few this year and never sanded at all. I use the DP headlight restoring cream. Which I doubt is a COMPOUND.
 
Hi dcredline. Yeah, I started with the 3m Finesse Polish first, wasn't even close. So I then went to the 3M SD Compound. Still not enough. Keep in mind the lights I am restoring are from the junkyard, I am using them as a before/after demo for my budding business.

I found that I wasted more time and material if I started too high (ex. 1500...not coarse enough, then 1000...not coarse enough, then SD Compound....,then down to 600, up to 800, 1000, back to 1500, SD Compound, and then polish). I don't have the experience yet to be able to know exactly what grit to start like some of you seasoned pro's.

If they look pretty yellow, I am doing: 600, 800, 1000, 1500, SD Compound, and the Polish then seal. That saved me the first 1000 and 1500 grit I did first.

Do you have any pics of how bad they can be that the DP kit could handle? I would love to know. I saw the video on the DP kit and it looked impressive.

Don't know if it matters but I only have a drill now. Getting a DA polisher in a few weeks.
 
I also use a drill...as a matter of fact I use a battery operated drill most of the time. I have some pictures of them on my website if you want to go look. Sounds like what you have in front of you are MUCH worse than any that I have done in the recent past. Im not so sure the DP would have helped you if you truly needed to sand it with 600.

Dont worry you will pick up the experience just keep in mind the least aggressive method, it will save you. Experience will help you get an idea of what step is close to "least aggressive".

Website: http://detailguy.webs.com/
 
Yeah, these are pretty bad. I wanted to start at the WORST I could find, and then see what I could do from there. Here are two lights I pulled from the junkyard. One is JUST the lens. The rest of the light was broken, had holes, spiders, and bad chrome. I just kept it for the lens. The other one that is complete is from a 1997 Mazda (something, forgot the model). Heck it's 18 years old, so came out great considering. I know most people would be happy as a clam with either, but I'm gearing toward that crazy detail oriented customer. PS: I like your website dcjredline!

The lens:


The light from the 97' Mazda
Maybe the DP would be o.k. here? I had a few pits I was sanding out, so other than that-would it work? I am trying to get a pit free perfect (if there is such a thing) surface.

 
I would bet the DP would work on that Mazda one. Probably not on the other but ya never know, I haven't had to test it that hard LOL

Thanks for the compliment on the site!!!!!!!!
 
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