4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE

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4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE


Yesterday, a gentleman named Wayne in West Palm Beach called me to ask me about how to go about saving the ALL ORIGINAL paint on his 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE. He had recently purchased this car with 41,000 original miles.

He told me the paint was oxidized, especially the hood, trunk and roof. He also told me he took it to a local body shop where he was told the paint couldn't be saved but they could repaint it for around $2000.00 but this would not include removing all the chrome and stainless steel trim, nor the bumpers or emblems, basically an entry level paint job.

Wayne Carini "Chasing Classic Cars"
Wayne told me he saw Autogeek on Chasing Classic Cars with Wayne Carini and how I restored the original paint on the 1953 Hudson Hornet for Wayne Carini.

That would be this segment...

Here's the TV commercial we did with the Hudson and using #7 plus Pinnacle products, which are the products I actually did use to restore the paint over the entire car.




I explained that I have an article on how to restore antique single stage paint and not only have I used this technique now for decades, but others have used it very successfully to save an preserve the original paint on antique and classic cars, including the original paint on muscle cars from the 1960's and 1970's.

I invited him to bring his Mercedes-Benz to Autogeek and this morning I shared with him 4-steps to restore the original paint. This is the exact same procedure I used on Wayne Carini's 1953 Hudson.



Step 1
Rub the paint down with a heavy, or wet application of Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze using a terry cloth wash cloth. Put some passion behind the pad and then let the oils in the #7 soak overnight or for as long as possible so they can migrate "into" the paint. I cover this in my article and show pictures of how it works. #7 is non-abrasive, but it is the unique polishing oils that have been around in this product since the time of the Model T, and thus since the time single stage automotive paints were invented that revive the paint and bring out the original, full richness of color. After the paint has soaked in the #7, remove it.

Step 2
Machine polish the paint using Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover. It's key to use the highest quality abrasive technology you can obtain so as to effectively remove all the oxidation, (not removed by the terry cloth while rubbing in the #7), and to also remove or reduce as many of the swirls and scratches as possible. Try to use a foam polishing pad to be extra gentle to the paint but if needed, use a more aggressive pad. Keep in mind, antique, original single stage paints will tend to be brittle and abrade easily, so use the least aggressive pad and/or products to get the job done. We used the Lake Country 5.5" and 6.5" white, flat polishing pads. Wayne used the Porter Cable and I used the Flex 3401. After applying the polish immediately remove using soft microfiber towels.

Step 3
Machine polish the paint using the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish. For this switch to a foam "finishing" pad. We used the Lake Country 5.5" and 6.5" black flat finishing pads. After applying the polish immediately remove using soft microfiber towels.


Step 4
Machine apply a show car quality finishing wax like Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax. It's important to use a non-abrasive finishing wax, not a cleaner/wax of any type. I use Pinnacle Souveran on a lot of the show cars I buff out as you don't have to let it dry before you wipe it off and it always leaves a deep, wet shine. For this we used a 5.5" Lake Country blue flat waxing pad on the Porter Cable on speed setting 4. After applying the wax, use your softest, clean microfiber towels, folded 4-ways t gentle remove the wax. I prefer and show others to wear microfiber gloves for this step as "like attracts like" and the gloves help you to more easily grip the microfiber towel plus you can touch the car without leaving fingerprints.


Now I let the pictures do the talking and note, this is the first time Wayne has ever used any of these products or tools, including the Porter Cable 7424XP dual action polisher. Looks like show car results to me....


Before

1972_Mercedes_280SE_001.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_002.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_003.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_004.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_005.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_006.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_007.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_008.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_009.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_010.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_011.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_012.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_013.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_014.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_015.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_016.jpg




After

1972_Mercedes_280SE_017.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_018.jpg



Close up of the same shot above, remember the paint had ZERO reflectivity when it arrived and this is a light color.
1972_Mercedes_280SE_018c.jpg



1972_Mercedes_280SE_019.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_020.jpg


1972_Mercedes_280SE_021.jpg



On Autogeek.net


Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze


Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover

Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish

Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax

Lake Country Flat Pads

Porter Cable 7424XP

Flex XC 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher

Microfiber Gloves



Thank you!

Thank you Wayne for watching Chasing Classic Cars with Wayne Carini and then following the segment to Autogeek.net and then taking the time to contact us.

Thank you also for trusting us with your classic Mercedes-Benz.


:)
 
Here's before...

1972_Mercedes_280SE_001.jpg




Here's after...
Note, we only did the hood, not the tops of the fenders, if you look at the pictures above I carefully taped the fenders off.

1972_Mercedes_280SE_017.jpg



Now all Wayne has to do is finish the rest of the car!

1972_Mercedes_280SE_022.jpg





:)
 
:xyxthumbs:wow what a recovery

i might be going off topic, but why did the older waxes (then called polishes) use to have cleaners?Feed back please
 
Mike's method just can't be beat.

I tried it on an old chalky white Toyota and made it look like it was only a year or two old.
The only alteration to Mike's method was rubbing down the paint four times with the Meguiar's #7
It really rejuvenated the old paint.
Plus I just love the smell of that stuff.
 
I LOVE threads like this...always a day brightener. Just awesome, and what an amazing car!
 
Mike that was one helluva nice thing to do. You could have just said "buy my book" over the phone and left it at that. No doubt it will generate some business for AG but you did go out of your way and show him exactly what to do and how to do it. I tip my hat to you in admiration Sir.

I doubt the hood ever looked that good in 1972. :dblthumb2:
 
Did Wayne like the results, and did he leave with a box full of new detailing supplies?
 
Awesome job, Mike!

Would you remove the emblems on the trunk lid to get behind them or use a different technique to polish the small, tight areas? Thanks.
 
The only alteration to Mike's method was rubbing down the paint four times with the Meguiar's #7

It really rejuvenated the old paint.

If a person has the time and is working on really neglected single stage paints, then definitely do more applications and use the product really wet or heavy. It's one of the rare instances where,

More is better


And of course, allowing the oils to soak in for some length of time, even overnight. The reason for this is explained in this part of my article but I think the pictures do the talking...


Mike Phillips said:
This is key...
Saturation Application --> The First Application
This is a mostly unknown technique and that is to let the first application penetrate and soak into the paint for up to 24 hours before wiping the product off. The idea being to really apply the product wet and work it in really well and the walk away.

The idea is to allow the heavy concentration of oils to penetrate and seep into the paint for maximum saturation before removing the product and continuing with the process. In this case I finished applying the first application of #7 around 9:00 pm and then left the #7 to soak in until the next day. I started wiping the product off then next morning right about 10:00am.

Some will argue if this works or not but my experience is that with a porous single stage paint it does in fact help. One thing for sure it can't hurt.

Paper Test for Capillary Action
If you place a few drops of #7 onto a piece of paper and then monitor it over a few days you will see the oils in the #7 migrate or seep away from the actual drop of product. It does this through capillary action and the same thing can work to your car's paints' advantage if it's a single stage lacquer or enamel paint.

I placed a few drops about the size of a nickel on a piece of standard printer paper around 3:00pm.

7CapillaryAction01.jpg


The next day I took these pictures at approximately 10:00am, (19 hours later), note how the oils in the drops of #7 have migrated outward via capillary action.

7CapillaryAction02.jpg


Feeder Oils penetrate or feed the paint
This same effect can take place in a single stage paint but not only will the oils travel horizontally, they will also travel vertically, that they will penetrate downward "into" your car's paint and this is where the term feeder oils comes from as the oils penetrate into or feed the paint. The result is they will condition the paint restoring some level of workability as compared to just working on old dry paint, and they will also bring out the full richness of color, something that will showcase the beauty of your car's paint.



I have a number of hot deadlines for other projects so we could let the #7 soak in but you can see in the pictures, just by rubbing it in really well pushed the oils into the paint to rejuvenate the richness of color.



Did Wayne like the results, and did he leave with a box full of new detailing supplies?

Wayne was very happy with the results and the newly learned skills and knowledge...

By restoring the ORIGINAL paint we actually added value to the car, at least in my humble opinion as compared to re-painting not to mention the cost to repaint a car like this the correct way.

One thing I point out is my original article on this topic stresses these types of procedures are NOT for everyone as some people will simply take their old car and compound it. If that works for them it works for me.

But if you read the first few paragraphs I state that my method for restoring "antique" and "original" single stage paints is for the person that it's IMPORTANT to "them" to do everything they can to preserve the original paint because they DON'T want to repaint.


This would include a lot of cool Barn Finds, or Barn Treasure. Here's the article...


The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints



Awesome job, Mike!

Would you remove the emblems on the trunk lid to get behind them or use a different technique to polish the small, tight areas? Thanks.


My normal practice and recommendation is to first ask the owner to remove any emblems, script or trim BECAUSE when working on older cars the owner is likely more familiar with these component and how to safely remove them.

They will often know which trim components can be remove and which cannot due to location or because to remove them could mean breaking them.

Also, a lot of classics and antiques used pot metal for trim, emblems and script and often times when you remove the speed nuts or regular nuts off the back of the threaded posts, the posts will snap off. It's better this happens to the owner and not you.


Besides the above, the answer is "yes" I will try to remove as much trim as I can and I've documented that in a number of write-ups.


Just to note, when I worked on Wayne Carini's 1953 Hudson Hornet, I asked him to remove the "Hornet" script off the trunk and he was happy to do so and he did point out to me that he didn't mind doing it because he was aware the mounting posts could potentially break off and for this reason he wanted to be the one to un-bolt and remove it.


This emblem....

Wayne_Carini_Shop_Call_Autogeek_019.jpg




Great questions...


:)
 
I posed a question to Mike in a PM on an upcoming project that is similar to this project, and that was that I noticed he didn't start with claying the paint.

Was that intentional or is it just assumed that the paint has been properly cleaned/clayed before you start at step one: heavy/wet application of Meguiar's #7?

He had a good and reasonable response. He said: "If you clay the paint, you'll load your expensive clay up with dead paint.

Rubbing the paint down AGGRESSIVELY with the terry cloth will remove the top dead layer of paint and with it much and even most or all of any above surface bonded contaminants. Things are different when you work on single stage than when you work on clear coats.

Chances are you won't need to clay but check with the baggie test AFTER the first polishing step, (after wiping off the #7)."


It's a good point that I didn't realize. Just thought I'd pass it along.
 
I posed a question to Mike in a PM on an upcoming project that is similar to this project, and that was that I noticed he didn't start with claying the paint.

Was that intentional or is it just assumed that the paint has been properly cleaned/clayed before you start at step one: heavy/wet application of Meguiar's #7?

He had a good and reasonable response. He said: "If you clay the paint, you'll load your expensive clay up with dead paint.

Rubbing the paint down AGGRESSIVELY with the terry cloth will remove the top dead layer of paint and with it much and even most or all of any above surface bonded contaminants. Things are different when you work on single stage than when you work on clear coats.

Chances are you won't need to clay but check with the baggie test AFTER the first polishing step, (after wiping off the #7)."

It's a good point that I didn't realize. Just thought I'd pass it along.

Good stuff...that's for adding that in on this thread.
 
Can't thank you enough Mike. I'm no youngster, and for years now Ive had new cars, and always kept them nice..My wife would say Im obsessed, but hey...At least Im not out spending time and money on worse vices eh?

Anyway, my stepson came to me asking how to detail his '87 F150 which is in excellent shape, but really needing some care. I had to confess that it's been so long since I've done such a big job, that I'd have to look into it.

Back in the day, I would have gotten a can of polishing compound, some wax, and as many rags as I could dig up. I knew you'd have a better way to do it and here it is!

To be honest I usually shop for the best price I can find for products, but the wealth of info you share with us is worth so much, that I couldn't in good conscience, go somewhere else to save a few bucks.

I appreciate all the work you put into this forum, and very much respect your approach to business

Thanks Again
Ed
San Diego
 
Can't thank you enough Mike. I'm no youngster, and for years now Ive had new cars, and always kept them nice..My wife would say Im obsessed, but hey...At least Im not out spending time and money on worse vices eh?

Anyway, my stepson came to me asking how to detail his '87 F150 which is in excellent shape, but really needing some care. I had to confess that it's been so long since I've done such a big job, that I'd have to look into it.

Back in the day, I would have gotten a can of polishing compound, some wax, and as many rags as I could dig up. I knew you'd have a better way to do it and here it is!

To be honest I usually shop for the best price I can find for products, but the wealth of info you share with us is worth so much, that I couldn't in good conscience, go somewhere else to save a few bucks.

I appreciate all the work you put into this forum, and very much respect your approach to business.

Thanks Again
Ed
San Diego


Wow Ed... thank you for the kind words...

Hopefully someday when I move on I'll have left some type of positive effect on this earth and in the car world...


:)
 
mike how much do i have to pay to bring a car down since i can never seam to make your class? hahaha
 
mike how much do i have to pay to bring a car down since i can never seam to make your class? hahaha


Well we don't operate it like that but I know what you mean...


There's a great class coming up at the end of this month and then next year we hold our detailing bootcamp classes the same time,


Last week of January

First weekend in May

Last weekend in September

You can always click on the Autogeek's Show Car Garage Detailing Bootcamp picture at the top of each page to get registered.



:)
 
It always amazes me the awesomeness of Meg's #7. When I worked with Mike on the 1955 Desotor Firedome, I was amazed on what a huge difference it made with just applying that, then we polished, repolished and finished it off with Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax
, which btw, it happens to be my favorite wax. Amazing turn around for sure.
 
Mike after reading this post and your other of the 1970 ranchero I was wondering why #7 can't be applied by machine and worked into the paint?
 
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