A couple 105/205 questions

[tyler99]

I am completely new to using a DA polisher on my car, and have multiple questions that I would like answered before I begin to tackle the job.
I will be using a harbor freight DA polisher, Ive heard for the money, you can’t go wrong. I have purchased a new backing pad as Ive read the one that comes with the polisher is junk, and I have also purchased 2 orange, 2 white, and 2 black lake country pads and will be using the 105/205 combo.
From my understanding, I will be doing:
Wash
Clay
Wash
M105 – Orange
M205- White
Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 – Black
Wax???

Now, for the questions:
1) People say to work in 2’x2’ sections at the max. Once I complete that section, I assume I wipe down the area with a clean microfiber towel, then move onto the next area and repeat until entire car is finished. Then I begin with the 205, correct? No washing or anything inbetween?
2) The harbor freight buffer offers 6 speeds, which speeds should I be using for each step in my process?
3) Should I wash the car in-between any of the steps?
4) Should I wax the car after applying the sealant? By hand or by machine? If machine, what pad and speed for that? Also any wax recommendations?
5) How do I prevent swirl marks in the future, my car is regularly washed and waxed using microfiber products, should I be doing something different to prevent swirls?
6) How many passes over a certain area is recommended on average if going at 2” per second?
7) Will I be needed more than the 6 pads I purchased to finish an entire car without doing a full-clean of the pad?

The car I am working on is a red 98 camaro

 

[allenk4]

I suggest you download Mike Phillips book from the AGO store

It will establish a firm foundation of detailing knowledge that you can continue to build upon

 

[Justin M.]

Your process looks fine, but take out the "wash" after the "clay" step, not really needed. See below for more answers/suggestions:

1) People say to work in 2’x2’ sections at the max. Do smaller sections for your first time, and with those products it will be easier to remove (like 20"x20"). Once I complete that section, I assume I wipe down the area with a clean microfiber towel, then move onto the next area and repeat until entire car is finished. Yes Then I begin with the 205, correct? No washing or anything inbetween? Yes and, correct.
2) The harbor freight buffer offers 6 speeds, which speeds should I be using for each step in my process? Speed 5 should be fine for the cut/polish steps.
3) Should I wash the car in-between any of the steps? You can wash the car after polishing to get all the residue off, just be careful not to put any new scratches into the paint. Really, it is not necessary though.
4) Should I wax the car after applying the sealant? Sure! With a red car you will get a deeper gloss and of course, additional protection. By hand or by machine? If machine, what pad and speed for that? By machine, use speed 3-4 and your black pad, make sure to apply a thin coat. Also any wax recommendations? I like Collinite 845 for final wax over sealants. However, there are tons of good ones out there.
5) How do I prevent swirl marks in the future, my car is regularly washed and waxed using microfiber products, should I be doing something different to prevent swirls? Make sure your MF towels are in good condition, never use towels on paint that are used on wheels/tires/etc. Use quality wash mitts and soap.
6) How many passes over a certain area is recommended on average if going at 2” per second? It depends on the tools and products, but generally 4-6 section passes, see Porter Cable Polisher How To Video Archive.
7) Will I be needed more than the 6 pads I purchased to finish an entire car without doing a full-clean of the pad? You will need to wash your orange/white pads often. I use on average 5-6 pads on a 4-door car when polishing. Fresh/clean pads always work better. See this: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly.html

 

[Billy Baldone]

Order the Menzerna FG400. Use that instead of the 105. More user friendly with a much longer work time.

 

[Justin M.]

Order the Menzerna FG400. Use that instead of the 105. More user friendly with a much longer work time.

I would also highly recommend this. M105 (more so M205 IME) can be a little discouraging and finicky to work with...but if that's what ya got then that's what ya got

 

[Capn Blackie]

I would also highly recommend this. M105 (more so M205 IME) can be a little discouraging and finicky to work with...but if that's what ya got then that's what ya got

Quick question about the 105/205...

Can the working time be extended by adding a light spray of water/lube?
I didn't any real issues using the 205 after UC but I did notice some powdering.

 

[Justin M.]

Quick question about the 105/205...

Can the working time be extended by adding a light spray of water/lube?
I didn't any real issues using the 205 after UC but I did notice some powdering.

Yes, a bit, and I used to do that when using M105/205. Some of the other products are just so much easier to use (longer working time, won't dry out, very easy to remove). I almost exclusively use Sonax Perfect Finish now for general correction work. The Menzerna stuff has the same ease of use.

 

[BrandonS]

Personally I hate 105 so if you get frustrated don't give up. For your first time and until you get the feel for it use slower speeds. I would maybe even skip the 105 for the first time and and get used to the 205 and sealing. They are much more user friendly and would give you time to get used to your new machine. After you get comfortable with it then try compounding. Just a thought. If I was training someone I would never start with 105. Everyone who recommended menzerna fg400 is correct. I switched and will never look back. I do like 205 though and you can do some correction work with 205 and your orange pad. If you go ahead and start with 105 work small areas and wipe off immediately. Good luck and post pics and updates when done.

 

[The Guz]

I agree M105 is finicky. M101 would be a better option if you want to stick with Meguiar's. Even D300 with the Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads works very well. FG400 is the other option if you want to try a non-Meguiar's compound.

Also you don't want to top off M21 with black wax. Black wax is a cleaner wax and will remove M21. If you want to stick with Meguiar's then M26 would be the way to go.

 

[tyler99]

Your process looks fine, but take out the "wash" after the "clay" step, not really needed. See below for more answers/suggestions:

1) People say to work in 2’x2’ sections at the max. Do smaller sections for your first time, and with those products it will be easier to remove (like 20"x20"). Once I complete that section, I assume I wipe down the area with a clean microfiber towel, then move onto the next area and repeat until entire car is finished. Yes Then I begin with the 205, correct? No washing or anything inbetween? Yes and, correct.
2) The harbor freight buffer offers 6 speeds, which speeds should I be using for each step in my process? Speed 5 should be fine for the cut/polish steps.
3) Should I wash the car in-between any of the steps? You can wash the car after polishing to get all the residue off, just be careful not to put any new scratches into the paint. Really, it is not necessary though.
4) Should I wax the car after applying the sealant? Sure! With a red car you will get a deeper gloss and of course, additional protection. By hand or by machine? If machine, what pad and speed for that? By machine, use speed 3-4 and your black pad, make sure to apply a thin coat. Also any wax recommendations? I like Collinite 845 for final wax over sealants. However, there are tons of good ones out there.
5) How do I prevent swirl marks in the future, my car is regularly washed and waxed using microfiber products, should I be doing something different to prevent swirls? Make sure your MF towels are in good condition, never use towels on paint that are used on wheels/tires/etc. Use quality wash mitts and soap.
6) How many passes over a certain area is recommended on average if going at 2” per second? It depends on the tools and products, but generally 4-6 section passes, see Porter Cable Polisher How To Video Archive.
7) Will I be needed more than the 6 pads I purchased to finish an entire car without doing a full-clean of the pad? You will need to wash your orange/white pads often. I use on average 5-6 pads on a 4-door car when polishing. Fresh/clean pads always work better. See this: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly.html

Thanks a ton for this! I really appreciate your time to reply to each and every question, as well as the link for cleaning the pads quickly! I will take your advice on the wax, and will be ordering the 845 tonight awhile they have 20% off everything!

 

[tyler99]

I would also highly recommend this. M105 (more so M205 IME) can be a little discouraging and finicky to work with...but if that's what ya got then that's what ya got

Order the Menzerna FG400. Use that instead of the 105. More user friendly with a much longer work time.

Thank you both for the suggestion. I went to add it to my cart, but after seeing it was near $50, i'm going to try and work with the 105 for awhile since I already ordered it, and give the FG400 a shot next time around. I did stop at a body shop and picked up a couple panels that I can test on before I move onto my car so If I decide I can't work with the 105, i'll order sooner than later!

 

[tyler99]

On another note, I always see "use good wash mitts/towels" to wipe wash, dry, and wipe down a car to prevent scratching. Could I get any suggestions on what you feel are my better option instead of the 5 pack microfiber towels I pick up at a local menards.

 

[Justin M.]

On another note, I always see "use good wash mitts/towels" to wipe wash, dry, and wipe down a car to prevent scratching. Could I get any suggestions on what you feel are my better option instead of the 5 pack microfiber towels I pick up at a local menards.

I like to use sheepskin wash mitts for washing painted surfaces. I use different MF or cotton mitts for wheels and other dirty places.

Use a decent waffle weave for drying the paint and get an assortment of medium to thick nap towels for other drying purposes.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hi Tyler,

Just now found and read your follow-up PM...

Did you get everything figured out?

 

[tyler99]

I like to use sheepskin wash mitts for washing painted surfaces. I use different MF or cotton mitts for wheels and other dirty places.

Use a decent waffle weave for drying the paint and get an assortment of medium to thick nap towels for other drying purposes.

Hey thanks! I will have to look into purchasing these types of wash mitts.

Hi Tyler,

Just now found and read your follow-up PM...

Did you get everything figured out?

Absolutely! Thanks for checking up!

 

[chet31]

I like M105. It's messy, but that's because it cuts like nothing else. The more clear coat you cut, the bigger the mess. Hard to beat for the price.