scrubs147
New member
- Nov 15, 2009
- 233
- 0
I was approached last week and asked if I could possibly restore some RV Aluminum Rims. These particular rims have a coating on them and do require any buffing of polishing.
However, the coating or clear coat was broken when the lug nuts were torqued to around 425 foot pounds. Once the coating was broken, they became oxidized under the coating.
In order to even get to the damaged areas, I first needed to remove the coating from only the damaged areas.
Here you can see the coating starting to lift.
In order to keep the Aircraft Remover from spilling over onto other areas, I wiped the remover off using a folded damp rag.
Not all of the coating was willing to lift so easily, but with the use of the Aircraft Remover, it made sanding down to the effected areas much easier.
Aircraft Remover is very dangerous, so safety gear is a must such as rubber gloves and face shield. My tools were a rotary polisher with an extension and 3" sanding disks. I started with a 220 grit but would of preferred to start with a 100 grit. The oxidation had deeply scarred the surface and even though the 220 grit was removing it, 100 grit would of had moved things a little quicker.
I followed up with a 400 grit, 600, 800, 1000, 2000, and then a 3000 grit foam sanding disc. Final step was using an 8" cotton buffing wheel followed by some polish.
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p674
/scrubs405/Aluminum%20Rims/photo15_zps88d56a5a.jpg
The transition from bare polished aluminum to the coated surface was feathered so there was no visible step, in fact you couldn't even feel the transition.
Needless to say, the customer was very pleased. These rims will maintain their appearance as long as the owner keeps them treated with simple aluminum wax/sealant every 6 or so months.
However, the coating or clear coat was broken when the lug nuts were torqued to around 425 foot pounds. Once the coating was broken, they became oxidized under the coating.
In order to even get to the damaged areas, I first needed to remove the coating from only the damaged areas.
Here you can see the coating starting to lift.
In order to keep the Aircraft Remover from spilling over onto other areas, I wiped the remover off using a folded damp rag.
Not all of the coating was willing to lift so easily, but with the use of the Aircraft Remover, it made sanding down to the effected areas much easier.
Aircraft Remover is very dangerous, so safety gear is a must such as rubber gloves and face shield. My tools were a rotary polisher with an extension and 3" sanding disks. I started with a 220 grit but would of preferred to start with a 100 grit. The oxidation had deeply scarred the surface and even though the 220 grit was removing it, 100 grit would of had moved things a little quicker.
I followed up with a 400 grit, 600, 800, 1000, 2000, and then a 3000 grit foam sanding disc. Final step was using an 8" cotton buffing wheel followed by some polish.
http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p674
/scrubs405/Aluminum%20Rims/photo15_zps88d56a5a.jpg
The transition from bare polished aluminum to the coated surface was feathered so there was no visible step, in fact you couldn't even feel the transition.
Needless to say, the customer was very pleased. These rims will maintain their appearance as long as the owner keeps them treated with simple aluminum wax/sealant every 6 or so months.
