Acid bath resulting in streaking in paint?

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Snowkan

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Hi all;

I run a detailing shop, and we had a customer come in with a 15 Silverado. We did a wash/clay/acid/ wax on his truck. I noticed some ghost streaking in the clear. Almost like water sheeting from the top and dripping down. I was thinking it was a result of maybe leaving the acid on for a few mins too long, but not too sure..I can't find any resources online to help correct the issue..Second GM truck with similar problems..WHere the sheeting is, the paint looks vibrant and bright, other parts look a bit dull..cust is coming back in for a rebook on Weds. Anyone have experience with this at all? You can see where teh water was sheeting..maybe my staff allowed the soaps to dry on the paint?
 
Hi welcome to AGO. Without pictures it's hard to tell what you're seeing. When the vehicle comes back on Wed try to get some good, high-res, high-quality photos.

Also, when you say acid are you referring to Iron-X? If so, you are very wrong in your terms. Iron-X is acid free and is pH balanced. "Iron X by CarPro is an acid-free, pH-balanced iron remover that decontaminates auto paint and wheels."

How long did you let it dwell? Should only be for few minutes if working in sunlight. I try to do the Iron-x part very early in the morning.


If the car is coming back on Wed, you can try a test spot by machine polishing with a cleaner/wax.
 
I'm just trying to figure out if we're at fault or not for damaging the customers paint..when I say acid, I mean actual wheel acid..We live in an industrial town, so there's alot of hard water spots on peoples cars..We use "ACID WIRE WHEEL CLEANER" from consolidated dealers..also use 'RIM CLEANER' by consolidated dealers too. I will take some pics of the trucks finish on Wednesday.

I don't have any personal experience with any non-acid fallout removers..through my dealership networks I have access to 'FALL OUT REMOVER'..I will have to check it out...Usually we rinse, wash, acid bath, wash again, rinse. panel by panel...Maybe the soapy water dried on the paint...not sure but we did a polish on the whole thing to see if it would help, but no luck..
 
If I understand you correctly, you are using an acid based wheel cleaner to do an acid bath on the body of a vehicle?

If vehicles are coming in with Type II or III water spots, my suggestion is to follow this article.
There is a fantastic article on for water spots: https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ypes-water-spots-type-i-type-ii-type-iii.html

If polishing the panel didn't work, I highly doubt it was caused by shampoo... rather I'd rethink your process of giving a car an "acid bath". I for one would never do it, and if I ever found out someone was going to on my vehicles, I'd run away.
 
You may have gotten good results on some cars using wheel acid on the paint, but it will bite you sooner or later.

Try using a compound on a test spot and hopefully that will remove the stains.
 
I've seen wheel acid mistaking sprayed onto the car and stain the clear rather quickly. The bottles weren't labeled and the detailer thought he was using a solvent to remove the undercoating over spray. Polishing may bring it back to life, but I'd say you're more than likely responsible for the damage. Pics would help.
 
Acid is the quick death for 2-stage paints. Bird droppings and insect remains etch paint very quickly. I'd stop your practice of using acidic paint treatments.


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I have used wheel acid for many many years . Wheel acid will destroy windshields and raw aluminum and any uncleared plastic parts.Great on glass except windshield and great at removing industrial fall out.How did you apply it via spray or sponge it on.I never seen or had acid damage on paint.On warm plastic bumpers if left on to long it will streak when dry and nothing but a repaint will fix.Anodized aluminum will get destroyed as well.Using acid must have the experience of working with this stuff need pics.
 
Get your hands on a magnifying glass.See if the acid etched in that area.It will have very little pits in the staining. I have a client who has a zo6 brandnew.On the hood there are 3 quarter size ghosting spots.Car was purchased one year ago with only 1000mi on it.During that time only wipedown and never been washed.Could be gm paint problem.
 
As a business owner you never want the risk to be greater than the reward, And putting acid on clients cars heavily outweighs in risks favor as to reward. Like Rasky above said sooner or later it is going to come back to bite you. Having to re-spray a Chevy Pickup heavily out weighs the cost of a wash and wax.

If you buy by the gallons from local detail/body shop suppliers their chemicals are always on the stronger side, As they usually have a good price point, And this means that they use cheaper chemicals to offer that good price point. Quality chemistry comes at a price.

There are safer more effective ways to remove water marks and iron fallout on customers vehicles.
 
The acid was sprayed on the paint like a mist...I will use a magnifying glass when the truck comes in.. I'm still learning, but I will stop using wheel acid on the paint..What other products can I use instead? Would anyone have access to iron x in like 20L containers? Would Iron X or a non-acid help remove water spots and cloudy paint?
 
Snowkan said:
The acid was sprayed on the paint like a mist...I will use a magnifying glass when the truck comes in.. I'm still learning, but I will stop using wheel acid on the paint..What other products can I use instead? Would anyone have access to iron x in like 20L containers? Would Iron X or a non-acid help remove water spots and cloudy paint?
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Snowkan, I highly suggest you follow some of the advice already given. Iron-X will not remove water spots. Once you understand what water spots are, how they are formed and how they affect paint as they go through various stages, you'll see that depending on the type you have will determine the course of action. Please take the time to read this article and you will have all the answers to your questions: https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-type-iii.html

It's one thing to work on your own vehicles and learn from your mistakes, it's another when you turn that into a business where people trust you with their vehicles. If you plan on making this a business and work on other peoples vehicles I would highly suggest the following:

1.) Take Mike Phillips 3 day Competition Ready course at Autogeek, this will greatly quicken you and give you the tools and expertise you need to be successful. If funding is an issue, read how one forum member did it: https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ion-ready-3-day-detailing-class-gofundme.html

2.) Start working towards getting IDA Certified. The IDA ensures that a set of standards and practices are taught to it's members along with continuing education, much like ones taught in Mike Phillips Competition Ready Class. Mike even offers IDA and Skills Eval certification at the end of the 3 day course. This will give you confidence and instill trust in your customers.

3.) Take the time to read Mike Phillips books and watch his videos found under the Autogeek University:
Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides

4.) Become familiar with the How-to's section of this Forum where Mike and others post countless articles, specifically the one you are asking about to which I posted yesterday earlier in the thread.


I once had a MSgt in the USAF tell me, "Airman, you can get a hundred atta-boys, but all it takes is one negative to destroy your reputation and career". Same holds true for every thing we do. Your customer should feel pretty upset if his new truck now needs a new paint job.

As Joe stated there are much better safer methods of achieving the end goal. Some are safe and some are risky. I for one mitigate risk at all costs.

Hope this helps!
 
Thanks very much for the indepth advice... Again, I'm open to all suggestions, and I'm not set in my ways..with my new position at work, I'm trying to get this shop making some cash..I am new to the forum, but will take the time to read everything...
 
Snowkan said:
Thanks very much for the indepth advice... Again, I'm open to all suggestions, and I'm not set in my ways..with my new position at work, I'm trying to get this shop making some cash..I am new to the forum, but will take the time to read everything...
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There are several chemical water spot removers made for paint available from various manufactures on here. Sometimes they work, sometime they don't, really depends of the water spots. Most contain a much more mild acid, but still need to be used with care.

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