First... since this is your first post to the AGO forum...
Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:
I have Mikes book and read through his correction process using the Megs #7.
Thank you for your business. For those reading this into the future the book he's referring to is probably this one,
The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine
And the article is this one with over a quarter million views...
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
I did two wipe downs with the Megs#7 and had the same results.
What were the results?
Did the richness of color come back to the paint and did your towel turn darkish like this when you
worked the product in like this,
And did you pull off black color like this when you wiped the product off.
The issue that is throwing me off is the machine correction. I am using the PC and Megs MF cutting pads with 105 to get out the water stains (sorry will post pics soon).
With this combination I am getting the results I want and the paint is finishing out to an almost mirror finish although loading my MF pads with black from the the metallic flakes .
This sounds like you're on the right track. I hope you took GREAT BEFORE pictures like I explain in this article.
The power in the after shots is created in the before shots
The after pictures are cool and all that but there's no power in them unless the world can see what the paint looked like when you started.
For the polishing step I was using AMMO jewlers polish and the black CCS pad from LC and its finishing out with more haze than just using the 105 and MF.
That could be the foam and that could be the polish, (I've never used any of Larry's products), or a combination of the two.
Antique single stage paint is a different animal altogether than modern basecoat/clearcoats as I'm sure you're learning.
Antique single stage METALLIC paints are the hardest type of pint to restore in the entire known universe.
They tend to react like marine gel-coats in that they like fiber pads and high speeds.
The M105 actually can be worked to you get a polished looking appearance and at this point if you're happy with the results I'd consider applying a follow-up coat of the #7 to re-saturate the paint and the seal the surface with a traditional Carnauba Wax.
My guess is following the above procedure will get you to where you want to be and an extra polishing step with foam might not be worth the time.
Another option if you want to use a dedicated polish would be to try the Meguiar's M205 with a "polishing" pad, either microfiber or foam but don't use a soft foam finishing pad. Also use higher speeds versus lower speeds and reduce the downward pressure for your last few passes.
I'm really looking forward to the pictures and the 1964 Chevy II is a very cool car.
Any advice on why the 105 and MF cutting pads are finishing out better than the Black CCS and AMMO jewelers polish.
Thanks[/QUOTE]
