Another CR Spotless Question

swanicyouth

swanicyouth

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I'm looking to pick up a CR Spotless for Spring. I checked out the company's website. It seems they make models that do 100 gallons and 300 gallons.

There is this model that does 100 gallons for $249( not sold at the Geek)

The DI 120:

View attachment 15941

Then there is this model that does 100 gallons for $349(sold at the Geek)

The DIC 10:

View attachment 15942

That's $100 difference in price for some wheels? Am I looking at this right?

If that's the case, any reason why AG doesn't carry the $249 one, as it has the same output as the $349 one, minus some plastic wheels.

If so, any chance someone AG could get me the DI 120? As I'd rather buy it from the Geek.
 
I think that's the only difference from the research Ive done. I want the same model you do as well.

It will move a total of 6 feet out of my garage to my driveway so wheels aren't a necessity either for me.
 
Well, the cart is the one they use for the 300 gal model which is a lot heavier, especially when it's full of water. Don't get your expectations too high, I had a CR and decided it was too much of a nuisance and had my outdoor faucet at the driveway plumbed to soft water.
 
I live in a townhouse rental and the CR is the only choice for me. My washing is frequent and usually consists of:

1. Traditional wheel cleaning with hose.

2. Foaming, rinsing.

3. Rinseless GDWM wash.

- the problem is, after rinsing when its hot, my car just bakes in the summer sun leaving water spots all over. The worse is on the windows. If I could add a DI water rinse after rinsing, I think it would help.

However, I realize this is another gadget that will add more time and I will have to drag it out each time. The water here isn't terrible, its about 200 ppm - so I'm hoping the resin won't die too fast. It does sound like a big PIA.
 
I found that I wanted to use it for the wash and intermediate rinse also, for the reasons you stated, you wash your car outside and if it's sunny or windy, you get water spots even if you do a final DI rinse. It's also not a panacea, because you have to rinse very thorougly because the water in the cracks and crevices has soap and dirt in it.

Ultimately I decided it was more trouble than it was worth, combined with the resin cost/changes, and as I said, I had the option to plumb my soft water from inside.
 
Let me know if I got this right: "soft" water is water where CaCo3 gets replace by NaCl, so you have "salty" water. NaCl still leaves spots, but they just wash off easier than calcium carbonate. I did consider a "water softener" set-up, but though it wouldn't help too much. Maybe I am wrong. dunno.
 
Here is what I posted on my Cobra forum.
I just copied it and re-posted it here.

I have one of these;

CR Spotless Rolling De-ionized Water Filtration System, deionization system, water de-ionizer, purified water systems, cr-spotless, spot free rinse,
also at Costco
CR SPOTLESS De-Ionizing Spotless Water System

Here's the pre filter info.
Garden Hose Filters – Pure Water Products, LLC
and the filter media
Water Softening Cartridge – Pure Water Products, LLC
And don't believe the stories about re-charging the filter media. It doesn't work.



And I use a small pre filter to help improve the longevity of the big filters.
And I only use the filtered water for the final rinse. After the car is completely washed and rinsed with tap water I give the car a final rinse with the filtered water using a pressure washer.
I only have to replace the resin filter media in the pre filter about every seventh wash. This lets the big, expensive to refill filters last years.
____________________________________

My washing/rinsing method is pretty simple. I pre soap the car using a foam cannon. The I use the two bucket method for the actual wash. But I constantly keep spraying the car with tap water during the wash to prevent drying causing water spots. Only after I am satisfied with the entire cars cleanliness do I finish with the filtered water final rinse.
 
^^^ Thanks for the information. It seems like a solid set up. I could have this 100% wrong, but I always though a softener just exchanged sodium for calcium. So, softened water was "calcium light" and "salt heavy". However, the total ppm of solutes of the softened water was the same as before it was softened.

If that's true (and it may not be), how does using a pre-filter softener increase the life of the resin? Doesn't the resin fill up based on ppm of dissolved solutes apposed to wether or not those solutes are NaCl or CaCo3 ???

Anyone know?
 
Yes, if you do a TDS reading on the hard water and the soft water, it will be (essentially) the same. I think you are right on that you are exchanging the sodium for calcium/magnesium (so the soft water has sodium in it, not actually "salt" NaCl), and those "spots" clean up a lot easier than the hard water spots. I have a whole-house softener so the plumbing the inside soft water to my driveway faucet worked out well.
 
I use the di-120 myself . I live in apartment and unable to use their water for car washing . I actually mounted the cr on a small plastic movers dolly along with my sure-flo pump . I have a 35 gallon tank on a dolly In garage . everything has quick fittings so I can bypass cr spotless easily , and hooks right up to my electric pressure washer . now I don't use tap water , I truck ro water in 7 gallon jugs , from work , endless supply . so I use ro water for everything and then final rinse with cr spotless . I'm sure using ro water helps keep my resin change down. I have not tried a rinse with ro water only , no cr , to see how that works . I wash in full sun , I make sure vehicle is always wet, and do a good final rinse with the cr spotless . no spots , no towel dry , I do break out the master blaster to get water out of crevices and such . my tap water is 129-106 and the ro water is 4 . I'm no expert in water but this works well for me/
 
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