Any tips for applying Klasse Sealant Glaze?

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anarchyx914

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I used this stuff for the first time on my vehicle, and it was 10x more difficult than anything I have ever used. My arm felt like it was going to fall off by the time I was done getting all of this greasy stuff off of my car, and I didn't even have enough energy to layer anything on top of it the next day lol.

My car is white, so it's kind of hard to see if I am getting good coverage or not on the vehicle. I know the Klasse instructions say to put it on very light on the car and wait at least 30 minutes for it to dry.

Does anyone have any tips for applying waxes/sealants very light? It's hard for me to see it going on because the vehicle is white. Should I just consciously think that once I put a nickel sized amount on the applicator that its good for an entire panel/hood?

Also, I read some reviews for the Klasse Sealant and I some of them said that they used it as a WOWO product because it dries so fast and leaves residue.

I'm about to seal one of my daily drivers for winter and I just wanted to get some good techniques for applying it so I don't wear myself out just applying a layer of sealant.

Also, I prefer the "layered" look on my car, even though its white and hard to make look nice. I applied the following products in the exact order:

1. Cleaned with turtle wax ice car wash.
2. Claybar
3. Re-cleaned w/ turtle wax ice.
4. Poorboys White Diamond glaze
5. Klasse Sealant
6. Natty's Red

Is my combination above bad, if so, is that what caused my difficulty?

I also have read on the forum that the easiest way is the WOWO method with a 1oz spritz bottle. My question for that method, is it best to simply use a 1oz spritz bottle, do two or three spritz' per panel then use a microfiber applicator (such as cobra) to rub it in, then immediately buff it out w/ a towel?

Thanks in advance!
 
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apply very thin , and polycharge it for easier removal
 
anarchyx914 said:
Sorry, but what does "polycharge" mean?
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is a wax booster , you mix with 1 oz of klasse sg , or is what i do every time i use SG.
removal : i use 2 towels , one damp with onr Qd the second dry. wipe first with the damp one and dry with second. one panel at a time.
i use only on my car , or some friends. too much work and to touchy for paint.
Cosmin
 
transfer and once or two to a small travel size spray bottle. Spritz each panel once or twice at most. Buff in immediately with MF towel, then flip and buff off. Allow the finish to cure for next 8-24 hours before adding another coat or topping it.

If you get a stubborn spot, respritz and buff immediately until gone. I would personally not use water to remove as it could effect the curing of the product.
 
The key I've found with SG is to put so little on you really don't think anything is on there. I know it's difficult to see with your color, but ideally you will wipe it on, the surface will be wet, then flash dry and it (the SG) will basically disappear (now that I think of it--it's almost exactly like the WOWA sealants). You can kind of feel the places you've done already because the applicator will glide over much more smoothly on the places you've done (yes, I generally use a MF applicator, but I have used a black pad on a Polishin' Pal). Anyway, whisper thin, and as Killrwheels said, go back and buff it before too long, and like-dissolves-like if you get spots you can't buff.
 
Everyone that emphasizes a super thin coat is correct.

I feel that if you think you have put on enough it is probably many times more than required.

I finally got to the point where I put a pencil eraser sized dot on a foam application pad that is enough for a normal hood and front fenders. So little that you can't believe you put any on at all. Then wipe it off right away. I do half a hood then remove.
 
mcpp66 said:
Not sure I'm understanding what you're saying. I want to start using the Klasse twins as well.
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He's saying go to Target or Harmon or someplace like that (or they may sell them here, or there are other plastics places online) and get a small spray bottle and transfer an ounce or two of the SG to that. I do this as well, it allows you to get wider dispersion on your applicator or vehicle surface as well, kind of like the idea with the new Optimum spray polishes.
 
I usually leave it on overnight so I can use a damp rag to get it off easily. Otherwise I get streaks. Probably because it's always damp around here.

Three coats gets me the most shine. Two is ok and four doesn't seem to do more, but the difference between 2 and 3 is a lot IMO. Then I top it with WGDGPS and WOW. :props:
 
Thanks for the tips everyone.

Also, is KSG safe on plastic exterior trim and headlights/glass?

The details for application/safe areas to use on are not exactly clear on the bottle.

I know that its the cleaners typically in sealants that cause plastics to go white and same w/ headlights, and I dont think the KSG has any cleaners in it.
 
it doesnt have any cleaners in it, but I still personally keep off trim. I have seen many reviews using it on glass and headlamps too always tread with care however.
 
I read on other forum that you can mix 1:1 the KSG with distilled water and use a spray bottle, I did it and it works perfect, it was very easy to apply a thinner coat with a MF applicator, almost invisible, let it dry for 15 minutes and removed with a MF.
 
To make KSG extremely easy, do what I have been doing for over 10 years. Mix 3 parts KSG with one part of Sonus Acrylic Spritz QD in a small bottle or sprayer. Make sure you shake shake shake and shake some more each of them, then shake well again after mixing. I usually mix 1/2 oz of the QD with 1 1/2 oz of KSG at a time. This is more than enough to do both my F150 Supercrew and my wife's Cadillac Deville. Then as everyone has said, use it very sparingly. I apply it one section and rub it in til it has pretty much flashed over then buff. After I've applied it to the entire vehicle I go back over all the surfaces with a MF for the final buffing. The Sonus Acrylic QD has pretty much been formulated with the same Acrylics that are in KAIO and KSG and works great for me. While Autogeek does not sell Sonus, it is available from other online retailers.
 
f150smith said:
To make KSG extremely easy, do what I have been doing for over 10 years. Mix 3 parts KSG with one part of Sonus Acrylic Spritz QD in a small bottle or sprayer. Make sure you shake shake shake and shake some more each of them, then shake well again after mixing. I usually mix 1/2 oz of the QD with 1 1/2 oz of KSG at a time. This is more than enough to do both my F150 Supercrew and my wife's Cadillac Deville. Then as everyone has said, use it very sparingly. I apply it one section and rub it in til it has pretty much flashed over then buff. After I've applied it to the entire vehicle I go back over all the surfaces with a MF for the final buffing. The Sonus Acrylic QD has pretty much been formulated with the same Acrylics that are in KAIO and KSG and works great for me. While Autogeek does not sell Sonus, it is available from other online retailers.
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Does anybody know if the dilution of SG with the Sonus QD would degrade the protection ability of the SG?
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
transfer and once or two to a small travel size spray bottle. Spritz each panel once or twice at most. Buff in immediately with MF towel, then flip and buff off. Allow the finish to cure for next 8-24 hours before adding another coat or topping it.

If you get a stubborn spot, respritz and buff immediately until gone. I would personally not use water to remove as it could effect the curing of the product.
Click to expand...

I just did my first application of KSG last night and had the exact same problem. Tonight I'm going to try this technique instead. Sounds like it should make things much simpler and my arm won't fall off.

I do have one other question. Right now I'm able to leave the vehicle in a garage between coats of KSG, but I will end up having to drive it to work before I can get the last coat on. Is it safe to let the sealant cure overnight and then drive the vehicle to work, short distance < 10 miles, and back and then use some quick detailer on the vehicle before applying another coat or do I need to completely wash it?
 
agon said:
I just did my first application of KSG last night and had the exact same problem. Tonight I'm going to try this technique instead. Sounds like it should make things much simpler and my arm won't fall off.

I do have one other question. Right now I'm able to leave the vehicle in a garage between coats of KSG, but I will end up having to drive it to work before I can get the last coat on. Is it safe to let the sealant cure overnight and then drive the vehicle to work, short distance < 10 miles, and back and then use some quick detailer on the vehicle before applying another coat or do I need to completely wash it?
Click to expand...

I used the technique with the 1oz squirt bottle last weekend and it worked like a charm. I simply did one panel at a time with a few squits of klassy and a MF applicator and then buffed it off immediately when the panel was complete.

I just hope that the klasse bonded to the paint properly lol, I always panic when I put stuff on this way because I never know if its properly bonding.
 
oldmodman said:
Everyone that emphasizes a super thin coat is correct.

I feel that if you think you have put on enough it is probably many times more than required.

I finally got to the point where I put a pencil eraser sized dot on a foam application pad that is enough for a normal hood and front fenders. So little that you can't believe you put any on at all. Then wipe it off right away. I do half a hood then remove.
Click to expand...
i dont get how if you put a pencil eraser sized dot how can that be spread thin enough to cover a hood and fenders without drying or disappearing into the pad?
 
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