Any way to restore oxidized weatherstripping?

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sinking

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On my C5 Corvette the weather stripping around the windshield and back glass is a hard rubber, shiny, nonporous material. It has an oxidized look to it now from the Texas sun. Is there a procedure to help restore this at least somewhat until I can get around to replacing them? Since it isn't porous it doesn't seem to take to rubber and vinyl protectant well and if I get compound on them the oxidization seems to just collect it so I haven't tried really polishing it with compound.

Thanks.
 
sinking said:
On my C5 Corvette the weather stripping around the windshield and back glass is a hard rubber, shiny, nonporous material. It has an oxidized look to it now from the Texas sun. Is there a procedure to help restore this at least somewhat until I can get around to replacing them? Since it isn't porous it doesn't seem to take to rubber and vinyl protectant well and if I get compound on them the oxidization seems to just collect it so I haven't tried really polishing it with compound.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

That "hard rubber" is probably made of EPDM...a "synthetic rubber". GM recommends using Dielectric Silicone Grease [GM US Part No. 12345579 (from my Corvette owner's manual, pg. 444)]

Dielectric silicone grease ( not really "grease") is a synthetic (man-made) lubricant ideal for synthetic (man-made) EPDM rubber.

I just apply a very light coating...wait a few minutes...gently wipe away excess...repeat as necessary. It also helps reduce some "squeaks", sometimes.

You can buy dielectric silicone grease, tube or spray version at most auto parts supply stores.

:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
That "hard rubber" is probably made of EPDM...a "synthetic rubber". GM recommends using Dielectric Silicone Grease [GM US Part No. 12345579 (from my Corvette owner's manual, pg. 444)]

Dielectric silicone grease ( not really "grease") is a synthetic (man-made) lubricant ideal for synthetic (man-made) EPDM rubber.

I just apply a very light coating...wait a few minutes...gently wipe away excess...repeat as necessary.

You can buy dielectric silicone grease, tube or spray version at most auto parts supply stores.

:)

Bob
Click to expand...


I have dielectric grease so I will give that a try tonight. Do you think that will help restore the look or just prevent it from getting worse?
 
FUNX725 said:
That "hard rubber" is probably made of EPDM...a "synthetic rubber". GM recommends using Dielectric Silicone Grease [GM US Part No. 12345579 (from my Corvette owner's manual, pg. 444)]

Dielectric silicone grease ( not really "grease") is a synthetic (man-made) lubricant ideal for synthetic (man-made) EPDM rubber.

I just apply a very light coating...wait a few minutes...gently wipe away excess...repeat as necessary.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but...that may be a good way to protect the trim (and really old school, I remember a Dow Corning rep telling me to use DC 7 on my tires 30 years ago...I still have the tube), but it's a greasy mess and won't do anything about the damaged outer layer that the OP (and me) are complaining about.

PS Corvette owner's manuals have 444+ pages? Well, reason #24 why I don't have a Corvette...my attention span is too short to get through the owner's manual...now what were we talking about again?
 
sinking said:
I have dielectric grease so I will give that a try tonight. Do you think that will help restore the look or just prevent it from getting worse?
Click to expand...

The look of EPDM is not as "dark" (for a better lack of terms) as natural rubber. EPDM is very UV resistant and is not supposed to degrade (become totally oxidized/usefulness totally gone) for up to 15-20 years, even without any maintenance. Therefore, IMO... Using the proper lubricant should enhance/lengthen EPDM's expected life-expectancy-cycle. Don't know how "dark" you want to go, though.

Hope this was helpful.

:)

Bob
 
Do you have a picture?

If its not porous and is what I think it is polish it with optimum poliseal.
 
CEE DOG said:
Do you have a picture?

If its what I think it is polish it with optimum poliseal.
Click to expand...

Of the oxidation or the material?

I was trying to find one online before I posted the thread but came up empty.
 
Is it the same as the material on these windows?

I used something else on this one but I have used poliseal for this before with similar results.

- Copied from PERL review-

Window Seals:

One of the vehicles I was working on had some seriously nasty window seals. After attempting to clean them with rubber cleaner and a toothbrush I moved on to using water spot remover. This was able to clean them much better but the rot was too deep for me to be satisfied. I used my Flex 3401 armed with Duragloss Nano Polish and a tangerine HT pad to polish these seals before moving forward.

Before

60.jpg


Before

61.jpg



Uh Oh! It wasn’t a bird that did that! I spilled some of my polish but after cleaning up the mess and under the seal I moved forward.


62UhOh.jpg



After I finished polishing and cleaning the seals I applied Cquartz to them. After buffing them 30 minutes later I moved on to other things and came back later to coat them with PERL (neat)


63.jpg



64.jpg
 
FUNX725 said:
EPDM is very UV resistant and is not supposed to degrade (become totally oxidized/usefulness totally gone) for up to 15-20 years, even without any maintenance.
Click to expand...

I can't speak for the OP, but there's sure a difference between "usefulness totally gone" and the exterior of this 1/4" thick stuff having a stained/oxidized appearance. It has a mottled, water-spotty, brownish discoloration. No, I don't have a pic, it's actually on my friend Jr's car.

IIRC correctly, I hit it with some KAIO by hand a year or two ago and it didn't make any difference, but I remember being gentle with it.
 
Corey, that's certainly similar...but you can never tell if the moveable window seals are the same material as something similar and right next to it. Again, I can't speak for the OP, but I'm talking about the square or rectangular x-sect (with radiused corners) molding that seems to be around the windshield and back windows of most cars today.
 
I don't think I am picturing the same material you guys are talking about.
 
I have the same problem on my Trans Am. The front window has the same material. I tried some plastic polish and there was no change. I've decided to try a more aggressive method next
 
CEE DOG said:
Is it the same as the material on these windows?

I used something else on this one but I have used poliseal for this before with similar results.

- Copied from PERL review-

Window Seals:

One of the vehicles I was working on had some seriously nasty window seals. After attempting to clean them with rubber cleaner and a toothbrush I moved on to using water spot remover. This was able to clean them much better but the rot was too deep for me to be satisfied. I used my Flex 3401 armed with Duragloss Nano Polish and a tangerine HT pad to polish these seals before moving forward.

Before

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j376/CEEDOG7/Reviews/CarPro%20PERL/60.jpg[IMG][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]

[B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Before[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]

[B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][IMG]http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j376/CEEDOG7/Reviews/CarPro%20PERL/61.jpg[IMG][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]


[B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Uh Oh! It wasn’t a bird that did that! I spilled some of my polish but after cleaning up the mess and under the seal I moved forward. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]


[B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][IMG]http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j376/CEEDOG7/Reviews/CarPro%20PERL/62UhOh.jpg[IMG][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]


[B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]After I finished polishing and cleaning the seals I applied Cquartz to them. After buffing them 30 minutes later I moved on to other things and came back later to coat them with PERL (neat)[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]


[B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][IMG]http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j376/CEEDOG7/Reviews/CarPro%20PERL/63.jpg[/MG][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]


[B][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][IMG]http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j376/CEEDOG7/Reviews/CarPro%20PERL/64.jpg[IMG][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B][/quote]

That looks like a very similar material. So would you say the work was done mostly by the Duragloss polish or CQuartz?
Click to expand...
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, but...that may be a good way to protect the trim (and really old school, I remember a Dow Corning rep telling me to use DC 7 on my tires 30 years ago...I still have the tube), but it's a greasy mess and won't do anything about the damaged outer layer that the OP (and me) are complaining about.

PS Corvette owner's manuals have 444+ pages? Well, reason #24 why I don't have a Corvette...my attention span is too short to get through the owner's manual...now what were we talking about again?
Click to expand...

LOL.... On reason #24.

IMO....EPDM is a totally different technology from the tires of 30 years ago. I really don't find dielectric grease to be that messy...others must. It's the same thing as silicone rubber dressing in a spray can without the propellant added.

Sorry, Setech, if I was of no assistance...
Hopefully, then, others will have more suitable/better suggestions. I always have an open-mind about processes/products and look forward to any input.

Alas and Alack....My C6 manual has 488 pages.....I've not read them all, though. Just as a quick reference.
Some folks I know are in the process of completing that mission...Probably the main reason for their having "Garage Queens".

:)

Bob
 
The polish did all the work. Well, I used CG water spot remover first but that didn't do even 10% of what the polish did.

The Cquartz probably wasn't even the right product to try to protect it with but I knew it couldn't hurt.

You could also try a test spot with some good water spot remover. Don't look at me if it goes wrong though!! :). I have no idea what material you are dealing with or what the outcome will be.

Whatever you do try a test spot first.
 
FUNX725 said:
IMO....EPDM is a totally different technology from the tires of 30 years ago. I really don't find dielectric grease to be that messy...others must. It's the same thing as silicone rubber dressing in a spray can without the propellant added.
Click to expand...

Now that I think of it I was talking to Dow Corning about what kind of "silicone grease" I should use on my GM weatherstripping per my owner's manual (that had 58 pages), and they recommended the DC 7, which is a thin grease. I then told this to a fellow car enthusiast at work, who told me that he was appropriating some DC 4 (thicker) for his tires...

As with the silicone dressings we have now, you're going to have to wipe off the excess if you don't want it to be greasy, and be left with a molecules-thin layer anyway, so I don't really see the appeal of using a grease vs. something like 303 (although 303 is a PDMS vs. the silicone oil in a grease). It's a little different if you're buttering up your battery terminals and want to have a thick coating when you're done.

In any case, I'm not sure that when GM talks about lubing weatherstripping or molding they are talking about the cosmetic considerations we are discussing, IIRC they are usually referring to door/window seals contacting moving parts, which can not slide smoothly or squeak.
 
CEE DOG said:
I don't think I am picturing the same material you guys are talking about.
Click to expand...

Twister said:
I have the same problem on my Trans Am. The front window has the same material. I tried some plastic polish and there was no change. I've decided to try a more aggressive method next
Click to expand...

This is what I'm/we're talking about--that's the windshield at the top of the photo and the A-pillar at the bottom:

IMG_1535.JPG
 
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