Anybody restore Aluminum wheels wetsanding?

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ShineMyCar

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I started a project today. Restoring a set of Aluminum wheels that are pretty well pitted from neglect in the elements. Here's the wheel style.

W63775.jpg


The 5 spokes are polished aluminum and the wheel center and gap between the spokes are painted aluminum. No pitting on the painted surfaces, but lots of brake dust very well set into the finish ( not sure how I'm going to tackle the painted surfaces ). Today I sanded the unfinished spokes of 1 wheel with soap / water / 220 grit paper where the pitting was the worst and got rid of the pitting on the spokes. I'll be working through a few more grits before I'm done. Next is the outer rim which is also unpainted and has some good pitting on it.

The sanding is taking a ton of elbow grease and wearing the skin off my fingers that are doing most of the sanding. I'm just using 2x4" sheets I cut with soapy car wash water. I'm not totally satisfied with the look but I'll reserve judgement til I go through the higher grits and smooth out the surface area.

Has anybody tackled a task like this - and have a few pointers to make the task move a little faster with less effort / time. For tools, I have a good drill and a Random orbital sander that I don't want to get wet but might be useful if I can dry sand or buff some of this job out.

Worst case scenario, I'll just have a long slow process of getting these wheels resurfaced by hand. But I'd like to speed things up if possible.

Also: back side of wheel could use a ton of sanding too, but I'm guessing that's not worth the time and effort. Is it ... ?

Thanks
 
ShineMyCar said:
The 5 spokes are polished aluminum and the wheel center and gap between the spokes are painted aluminum. No pitting on the painted surfaces, but lots of brake dust very well set into the finish ( not sure how I'm going to tackle the painted surfaces ). Today I sanded the unfinished spokes of 1 wheel with soap / water / 220 grit paper where the pitting was the worst and got rid of the pitting on the spokes. I'll be working through a few more grits before I'm done. Next is the outer rim which is also unpainted and has some good pitting on it.

Has anybody tackled a task like this - and have a few pointers to make the task move a little faster with less effort / time. For tools, I have a good drill and a Random orbital sander that I don't want to get wet but might be useful if I can dry sand or buff some of this job out.

Also: back side of wheel could use a ton of sanding too, but I'm guessing that's not worth the time and effort. Is it ... ?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Unfinished spokes are finished - just not painted.
1. Stripper
2. Youtube videos :
-refinish aluminum wheels
-sanding aluminum wheels

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nother-aluminum-rim-refinishing-question.html
 
Is the wheel coated? If so you must strip it 1st. if they are bare aluminum you can sand the pits out.

I do this all the time on Semi Truck wheels and tanks. They get pitted from the rocks on the highways. I move up in stages from 80 grit (very abused aluminum) to final of 1000 grit. I use Airway buffs, liquid polish, rouge compounds, mineral spirits and a two speed (1400-3200rpm) rotary polisher to buff it out. Depending on your buffer you may have to go to 1200 or 1500 grit to get that flawless finish.

The smoother you get the surface the easier and better the polish will be. If you can fit it in there go to your local auto supply store that sells paint and get the sticky sanding disks and the backing plate. Then attach it into your 3/8 drill or a paint squealer if you have one. Beats the hand job!

If you are polishing by machine the hotter the aluminum is the more it will "flow" under the compound and produce a more mirror finish. To remove the black residue from the polishing process that may be left over rub in some corn starch with a soft cloth. Will take the black right off.

For the back of the wheel you could try a sisal buff to remove the pits before going to a finer grit for final sanding. If you do this be VERY VERY careful not to hold this buff in one spot. This stuff is like 8o grit sandpaper in a tight round roll! Sisal takes pitting out very quick.

I don't wet sand just put on a high grade particle mask and go to town. Wet sanding will definitely reduse the aluminum dust.

When you are all done seal the wheel or two months later you will be polishing again.
 
Interesting video. Not quite what I wanted though. I'm trying to get back to the original OEM finish, with the bare polished aluminum look.

I'm focusing on sanding out the Pitting, and smoothing the overall surface, then finishing the wheel with a seal coat of sorts to keep the pitting from returning. I'm hoping the Klasse AIO + SC will take care of protecting the wheels, but I'm open to any suggestions with those who have experience with this type of project.

I had thought about clear coating wheels once done, but haven't seen many good reviews of a clear coat product for the job.

Thanks
 
I've re-done 3 sets so far...1)Stripper 2)Sand the damaged areas and feather it out..I use a orbital sander and depending on how deep the damaged spots are I adjust my paper..finishing with a fine grit. 3) Polish the wheel..the sets I've done so far looked great polished out so I cleaned them with denatured and clear coated them..
 
Kevin Cullen said:
Is the wheel coated? If so you must strip it 1st. if they are bare aluminum you can sand the pits out.

I do this all the time on Semi Truck wheels and tanks. They get pitted from the rocks on the highways. I move up in stages from 80 grit (very abused aluminum) to final of 1000 grit. I use Airway buffs, liquid polish, rouge compounds, mineral spirits and a two speed (1400-3200rpm) rotary polisher to buff it out. Depending on your buffer you may have to go to 1200 or 1500 grit to get that flawless finish.
Click to expand...

Only buffer i have would be a drill attachment I'd need to get. Is this what you are suggesting?

$%28KGrHqV,%21h0E6HY5W2oZBOtGOHrd+Q%7E%7E60_35.JPG


Detailing a car is new endeavor for me, so I don't have any of the tools of the trades. Not looking to invest much in any either. Trying to do things by hand for now to keep costs down.


The smoother you get the surface the easier and better the polish will be. If you can fit it in there go to your local auto supply store that sells paint and get the sticky sanding disks and the backing plate. Then attach it into your 3/8 drill or a paint squealer if you have one. Beats the hand job!
Click to expand...
Not quite sure what you are suggesting with Sanding Discs / sander. Anything I could pick up from Harbor Freight on the cheap ? My Orbital sander is more of the carpentry type.

Could you post a link or photo to the type of tool you're suggesting so I know what to look for. If I am stuck finishing by hand, I definitely do not want to repeat this process on any kindof frequency. It's a slow process.

If you are polishing by machine the hotter the aluminum is the more it will "flow" under the compound and produce a more mirror finish. To remove the black residue from the polishing process that may be left over rub in some corn starch with a soft cloth. Will take the black right off.
Click to expand...
Tools / technique are on the fly right now, not sure where I'll end up as the project moves forward. Just that today's work was more labor intensive and slow than I had imagined from the start.

I don't wet sand just put on a high grade particle mask and go to town. Wet sanding will definitely reduse the aluminum dust.

When you are all done seal the wheel or two months later you will be polishing again.
Click to expand...
I hope not. I was looking for more of a permanent solution that would keep pitting away with a good seal coat and keeping wheels clean. That's still my intention. Was anticipating using The Klasse combo on the wheels to keep em protected from elements. Any thoughts on that, or further suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
ShineMYCar-

Yes that buff will work. Should get into the tight areas fine.

The sanding disks are what the autobody guys use. A squealer is an air powered Dual Action sander/polisher.

I have used Klasse AIO with good success. Have not tried Permanon yet but would like to.
 
Kevin Cullen said:
The sanding disks are what the autobody guys use. A squealer is an air powered Dual Action sander/polisher.
Click to expand...

Yeah. I've seen those, but I have no way to power air tools so that's a no go for me.

Anything comparable with a plug? Do the Orbital polishers that detailers on this forum work sanders too? Or is that not what they're designed to do?

Power tool would definitely sanding up a bit. I don't seem to be finding anything online besides that air tool you mentioned. Any other thoughts on the sander?
 
Do the Orbital polishers that detailers on this forum work sanders too? Or is that not what they're designed to do?

I don't see why not if you can adapt them to the backing plate. The backing plate for the sanding disks has a 1/4 threaded bolt that screws into the squealer. I just put the threaded part into my chuck of a 3/8 drill and go to town. I have polished after the drill (just like a rotary polisher) and have used the dual action as my last sanding prep. Both leave a good finish after polishing by machine.
 
ShineMyCar-

Here is a picture of the backing plate with the 1/4 inch bolt. Your autobody supply dealer will be able to get one.
 
Thanks, I'll look into that. Would definitely save my hands and speed up the job if it works.
 
Kevin Cullen said:
Is the wheel coated? If so you must strip it 1st. if they are bare aluminum you can sand the pits out.

I do this all the time on Semi Truck wheels and tanks. They get pitted from the rocks on the highways. I move up in stages from 80 grit (very abused aluminum) to final of 1000 grit. I use Airway buffs, liquid polish, rouge compounds, mineral spirits and a two speed (1400-3200rpm) rotary polisher to buff it out. Depending on your buffer you may have to go to 1200 or 1500 grit to get that flawless finish.

The smoother you get the surface the easier and better the polish will be. If you can fit it in there go to your local auto supply store that sells paint and get the sticky sanding disks and the backing plate. Then attach it into your 3/8 drill or a paint squealer if you have one. Beats the hand job!

If you are polishing by machine the hotter the aluminum is the more it will "flow" under the compound and produce a more mirror finish. To remove the black residue from the polishing process that may be left over rub in some corn starch with a soft cloth. Will take the black right off.

For the back of the wheel you could try a sisal buff to remove the pits before going to a finer grit for final sanding. If you do this be VERY VERY careful not to hold this buff in one spot. This stuff is like 8o grit sandpaper in a tight round roll! Sisal takes pitting out very quick.

I don't wet sand just put on a high grade particle mask and go to town. Wet sanding will definitely reduse the aluminum dust.

When you are all done seal the wheel or two months later you will be polishing again.
Click to expand...

I'd like to see a video of this :props:
 
In town? Dagnabbit hand! Sounds like a state (DMV) class may be in order.

Anyways, have a great night.

:props:
 
Vegas Transplant said:
In town? Dagnabbit hand! Sounds like a state (DMV) class may be in order.

Anyways, have a great night.

:props:
Click to expand...

You know the town well. I completed my 4 hour class a few Saturdays ago :o

Sorry to mess up your thread OP. What were we talking about anyway?
 
I attended the church... almost next to the Pict-sweet cannery/cold storage one summer.
Also use to fish on the wildlife preserve, but can't remember the name.
Picked many a pecan in Brownsville and delivered umpteen cars to auto reconditioners all over Hardeman county. I still consider Cecil, former sheriff, now car hauler for Bolivar Ford, a true friend.

EDIT: My bad OP...Back to you.
 
The wheels are clear coated...you should be repairing it like you would paint on a car. It is thicker and a little tougher than the paint on your car...but if you sand through you will not get the finish you want. I think I would try iron x first and see how much of the crap that takes off or out of the finish. Then lightly sand accordingly then switch to an aggressive pad with maybe some 105...then go less aggressive til you en up at the polishing stage...Just my opinion...
 
Vegas Transplant said:
I attended the church... almost next to the Pict-sweet cannery/cold storage one summer.
Also use to fish on the wildlife preserve, but can't remember the name.
Picked many a pecan in Brownsville and delivered umpteen cars to auto reconditioners all over Hardeman county. I still consider Cecil, former sheriff, now car hauler for Bolivar Ford, a true friend.

EDIT: My bad OP...Back to you.
Click to expand...

You know, I like the town so much and everyone is so friendly, I feel it is my civic duty to contribute to the city coffers at least once every couple of years......I do think the new sheriffs brother in law runs the driving school ;)



Back to your regular scheduled program... :p
 
By the Grace of the Almighty, I was living a good life back then. Seems that the law in them there parts don't cotton to strangers or city ways, if you know what I mean.
Great place to raise kids.



The biggest thing is that the OP had a great idea...just not well thought out or researched.
It's not going to be all that expensive to purchase a stripper, sand, polish, paint, and Zoop coat the set of wheels.

The process that he is aiming for is going to leave him with shiny scratches on the spokes and rims, half-finished, painted/coated wheel faces, and nanometers of protection to presevere what a plasticised factory coating gave up its ghost for.

The OP would be well suited, IMO, to rethink his game plan, or buy aftermarket or Craigslist wheels.
 
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