Anybody use 2000 grit on the D/A ?

adrynalinjunkie

New member
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
I have been knocking the new clear flat with 1000 grit dry then 1500 grit Megs (damp) and then I end up having to spend allot of time with the Megs 3000 grit finishing discs (with the backer pad of coarse.

The problem is I have to spend allot of time with the 3000 damp to get all the half moon scratches that look allot like this (

I am thinking about getting some 2K discs what do you guys recommend as far as brand?

Also should I use the 2000 dry or damp (probably depends on brand, huh?)

Anyway what 2000 grit discs do you prefer and are they worth it?
 
I have been knocking the new clear flat with 1000 grit dry then 1500 grit Megs (damp) and then I end up having to spend allot of time with the Megs 3000 grit finishing discs (with the backer pad of coarse.

The problem is I have to spend allot of time with the 3000 damp to get all the half moon scratches that look allot like this (

I am thinking about getting some 2K discs what do you guys recommend as far as brand?

Also should I use the 2000 dry or damp (probably depends on brand, huh?)

Anyway what 2000 grit discs do you prefer and are they worth it?

I would choose Norton 2000 with a soft block and a spray bottle with water and a drop of dish soap to keep it clean then just polish it with a rotory ,but that's me..if you insist on a da again wet use Norton 6in 1500 grit and follow that with Norton 3000 grit keep on mind compare to 3m Norton's 1500 is like 3m 1200 and their 3000 is like 4000 ... it would help to know what buffer you plan on using once your done sanding to guide you in the right direction..
 
+1 I really like Norton. These higher grades really load up quickly so make sure you keep the paper clean to avoid those marks ).

Lastly why go to a 3000 grit finish unless it's a show car? 2000 grit marks are removed very easily with a rotary.
 
I don't use the rotary any more.. It's not worth the risk. Plus the results seem better wth the DA
 
I've used Tolex 2000 discs and like them a lot. I generally don't sand with a DA anymore. The paint booth is horrible where I work. If I don't denib and flat block everything, the pigtails will be deep and tough to deal with.

I usually denib with 1500 wrapped around a toleblock, flat block with 1500, and soft block all the 1500 marks out with 2000. A wool pad on my rotary will knock that out with ease. I know a lot of people love sanding with a DA, but I just prefer to hand sand everything
 
I don't use the rotary any more.. It's not worth the risk. Plus the results seem better wth the DA

Risk? How? Just lower your speed.. as for the marks keep plenty of water so that your paper stays cleaner longer ... a rotary is the best way to do a vehicle right if it were me I'd be compound wool pad then compound fine foam pad then take a makita bo6040 and finish it off with a fine pad again then put your protection..
 
Back
Top