Anybody use car brite fallout remover?

interesting directions though..apply it with applicator pad while the surface is wet.i personally have never tried any products that are sold to high volume detailing shops..
 
I have not either, the issue is products like those are often low quality
 
I've wanted to try a bunch of the Car Brite products. And coincidentally, I was looking for a new FE & fallout product.
I'm assuming this isn't a color-changer, though. Also, you are right, applicator pad? That's not ideal for wheels.
 
I have. It works. it just doesn't change colors like all the other ones.
 
kttlbll said:
I have. It works. it just doesn't change colors like all the other ones.
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Interesting. Would you say it preforms well. Oaxalic acid can be bought in powder form for cheap
 
Wasn't someone asking recently about the FK 123 Decon System, or the Valugard ABC? This is like the 2 or B step, an acid decon. The "old school" way before people started using the color-changing products.
 
Bill1234 said:
Interesting. Would you say it preforms well. Oaxalic acid can be bought in powder form for cheap
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Buy the oxalic acid in powder and dilute it your self. It's the old school of iron remover. And is very helpfull to decon boats with as it desolves some of the oxidation on gelcoat. Since it's cheap as it is on the ready to use gallon on AGO maybe try that out first. Buy something like the kwazar pressure spray bottle that is red and made for acids. That way you cover alot of ground fast. Just make sure to have a bottle with water and mist if it's seems to dry. You do not want it to dry. And be carefull of aluminum parts don't get it on them. If you do just thoroughly rinse it of fast. Many wheel cleaners was based on oxalic acid.
 
SWETM said:
Buy the oxalic acid in powder and dilute it your self. It's the old school of iron remover. And is very helpfull to decon boats with as it desolves some of the oxidation on gelcoat. Since it's cheap as it is on the ready to use gallon on AGO maybe try that out first. Buy something like the kwazar pressure spray bottle that is red and made for acids. That way you cover alot of ground fast. Just make sure to have a bottle with water and mist if it's seems to dry. You do not want it to dry. And be carefull of aluminum parts don't get it on them. If you do just thoroughly rinse it of fast. Many wheel cleaners was based on oxalic acid.
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I can get a small container of it at a local hardware store for about 5 dollars, any suggestions on the powder to water and the wait time?
 
I think thats what its not knowing too much about it, iron x basically is user friendly now, just spray let dwell and rinse. My issue with car brite is the fact that there is no color change
 
Yeah I think it's worth it with the ironx products that are available know. And I think that they are faster to reacting and desolve the oxidized iron particals. The benefit of see it react and wait as long as possible before it's drying is great. That's why they recommend to aggitate with the non color changes iron removers. But the chances of scratching the paint is high when you aggitate it. I reapply ironx one more time to see so all is desolved after rinsed and to a area where it was the worst. If no more color changes happens I move on to clay if I'm going to polish or if decon washes I move on to the next step.

With oxalic acid you can make a deep impact on your lsp. You can do that with ironx products too but I think it's more gentle than oxalic acid. The oxalic acid in powder I can get they recommend a dilution of 1:32. So it's very economical on larger areas. But it definitely has it's downsides.
 
SWETM said:
Yeah I think it's worth it with the ironx products that are available know. And I think that they are faster to reacting and desolve the oxidized iron particals. The benefit of see it react and wait as long as possible before it's drying is great. That's why they recommend to aggitate with the non color changes iron removers. But the chances of scratching the paint is high when you aggitate it. I reapply ironx one more time to see so all is desolved after rinsed and to a area where it was the worst. If no more color changes happens I move on to clay if I'm going to polish or if decon washes I move on to the next step.

With oxalic acid you can make a deep impact on your lsp. You can do that with ironx products too but I think it's more gentle than oxalic acid. The oxalic acid in powder I can get they recommend a dilution of 1:32. So it's very economical on larger areas. But it definitely has it's downsides.
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So basically it would be 31 parts water and 1 part powder?
 
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SWETM said:
Yes.
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my only other question would be dwell time, usually id spray on and hose off after a color product turned its fullest red or purple, any ideas with this ?
 
DG wheel cleaner uses this acid. Can't see it working, and I haven't tested it for effectiveness. Much less expensive and no dead skunk smell. May get some powdered acid and give it a try.
 
Bill1234 said:
my only other question would be dwell time, usually id spray on and hose off after a color product turned its fullest red or purple, any ideas with this ?
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If the temperature is normal and you are working in the shade which is the important thing to do and not in the sun and cool surface. I would let it dwell up to 5 minutes. Just have a close I eye on it so it's not drying. If you feel like it's drying on you and since it's so cheap I would mist it one more time to be on the safe side. You can mist it with the hose too. The more of iron particals and baked in the more dwell time it needs. And have the PW or the hose ready to rinse it off. Honestly I would only use this oxalic acid under the glass and down. Acid is not so great to get on glass since it can etched it. So the front and up the hood and then to the sides a couples of inches below the windows and the same to the back of the car. When rinsing use alot of water to be certain to get it all off.
 
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