Anybody using the Canon T1i

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frosty

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I want to learn how to get better pix of cars for when I'm selling one and to post on my website of the work I've done. I wasn't getting what I wanted out of P & S's so I decided to get a start dslr. I went with the T1i with the 18-55 & 55-200mm kit. Should be here next week.

I've been searching around and found some good tips on how to get the best quality pix of cars. I know on here to show work, it's recommended taking pix in bright sun but for actual good pix you want to show off to potential customers, it's about the worse.

I point that out because I hope this thread doesn't go in that direction.

So if anybody has the T1i and has any base setting recommendations or links for such information specific to this model that they've found helpful, I would greatly appreciate it.

Links to how to shoot great auto pix would also be welcome. The best I've found so far is a post on a site called cobracountry.

Thanks.
 
Hi Frosty,

I've been using the Canon Digital Rebel's since they were introduced, forget the models for the first two I had but they were great cameras. When I came to work for Autogeek I was having trouble getting the exact shots I needed to tell the story using the company Nikon camera so Max let me get a new Canon Rebel and after some research on some camera forums I ordered the Canon T1i and it's absolutely the best camera I've ever used.

Can't really share any tips as I'm not a Professional Photographer, besides reading the instruction booklet I just do my best to center up the shot, exclude any fluff and use the "Flash Off" setting for all most all my shots, but also the Portrait for forcing a flash, and the Close-up for shots like these,

Tracer after wet-sanding by hand
WetSandingExperiment1102.jpg



The above picture taken with the Close-up setting on a Canon Rebel T1i

WetSandingExperiment1110.jpg



The above shot of me taking a shot of course was taken using our Nikon camera.



Heres some more close-up I've taken recently from this thread,

3M Quick Release Adapter vs the Double-Sided Pad Rotary Buffer Adapter - Differences?

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RatchetvsThreaded007.jpg


RatchetvsThreaded008.jpg




And far shots are a cinch... these were taken on a cloudy day using the "Flash Off" setting.

1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!

57TuqChev118.jpg


57TuqChev119.jpg



57TuqChev121.jpg


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Great camera and the video works great too!


You're going to love that camera.

:dblthumb2:
 
I have not used the T1i, but I use a 40D.

For showing defects, use your finger to point to any defects in the paint for a focusing area (almost touching the actual defect, just close enough to not cover it up.) Then push half way down to keep the focus area. You can then leave your finger there to lead the viewers eye to the defect, or remove your finger.

For final pictures I use a few different ways, and just see what I like best.

I will find great reflection shots in the garage
normal_Benz_Detailed_039.jpg


Reflections and depth in the sun.
normal_Benz_Detailed_074.jpg


Shoot directly in the sun to show a swirl free finish.
normal_Benz_Detailed_003.jpg


Show deep reflections in the daylight
normal_Benz_Detailed_002.jpg


I only take a couple full shots usually, since those show the least detail for me.
normal_Benz_Detailed_082.jpg



Don't forget to show before and after comparisons
normal_Benz_Detailed_027.jpg


normal_Benz_Detailed_075.jpg


They were all taken from my site on a particular job, but feel free to browse. You will probably find the examples you are looking for under "detail jobs" on the right side.
1999 Black SL500: Elite Detail


Good luck!
 
I forgot to add that I shoot in Av mode (aperture priority). It is probably best to stay away from the auto modes.
 
MDetail said:
I have not used the T1i, but I use a 40D.

For showing defects, use your finger to point to any defects in the paint for a focusing area (almost touching the actual defect, just close enough to not cover it up.) Then push half way down to keep the focus area. You can then leave your finger there to lead the viewers eye to the defect, or remove your finger.
Click to expand...


Actually wrote an article about that back in 2006...

How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera



You can also place a coin, a piece of painter's tape or even a small piece of detailing clay on the surface next to the surface defect you're trying to capture and this will give your camera something to focus on.

Or use manual focus.


:xyxthumbs:
 
Awesome, thanks guys for taking the time to post this great info.

I'm more so looking for pix to put on a website showing the whole car. Think posting in a sales ad etc. A lot of cars posted on those sites have crappy pix.

I think early morning or late after noon, always using a flash to get even light are some things to start with.

I don't know anything about the Canon and just learning about things such as ISO.

I've read it does ok up to a certain ISO and then there's too much noise. So I'm curious about things such as "set Auto ISO at Max 800" because....

Things along those lines but I'm asking here as I'll mostly only be taken pix of cars.

Thanks.

P.S. Mike what lense are you using. I just got the kit even the lenses that come with it may not be the best. I figure they'll far surpass my capabilities for a while until I figure out what I'm doing.
 
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MDetail said:
I forgot to add that I shoot in Av mode (aperture priority). It is probably best to stay away from the auto modes.
Click to expand...

Good Stuff. Curious, what resolution do you guys shoot with. I was reading from one Pro he doesn't shoot anything over 6 megapixel that is going on the web?

Also, for these pix you have posted here, what resolution are you posting them and what are you doing to convert them to a smaller size for posting.

I've just been using a feature in Outlook where you can highlight a bunch of pix and click send too. It will prompt you if you want to compact them into a certain resolution. I usually go for 1280x768 for pix I plan on posting.

I would be curious as to what you guys do.

Thanks.
 
frosty said:
I would be curious as to what you guys do.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Unless it's a remarkable before and after results shot that might be used for other purposes, I use the small setting on the camera for capturing images. Using the Large setting just fills up your hard drive and seems to make everything slower when working with them.

For resizing I've been using EZ Thumbnails for about 7 years now, can't say enough good things about it as it resizes without distorting the image and it's free. Every image I've ever posted to ANY forum in the last 7 years has been resized using EZ Thumbnails.


I've written some how to articles on working with images on forums, you can find in the link below. There's also one that shows people how to upload to the Autogeek gallery so down the road when they fun out of free room on the Photobucket or Imageshack account and delete their older photos we don't have RED X's all over our forum.


How-to work with pictures on discussion forums



And the EZ Thumbnail article is here, I have to re-create it over here on AG

How to resize your photos before uploading


For cropping out the fluff before resizing I use Photoshop Elements that came free with the Canon but there are other software programs you do this with.


Cropping the fluff means cutting out just the image you want your reader to focus on and removing things like extra blue sky, extra pavement in the parking lot surrounding the car, etc.

:)
 
I usually have my camera set to "smallfine" + RAW. But I do a lot of other shooting and large prints as well. If you have a raw converter (i think the camera will come with software) You would probably want to shoot in raw. I take the time to convert resize and re-sharpen since sometimes minimizing the size can create distortion. I do all of my work in Photoshop, and sometimes photoshop lightroom. I would say if you are going to do an online add, get a mix of photos in there. Under halogen pics, deep reflections, full car shots, before and after, wheel shot, 50/50 shot. When online you rally are free to do what you want. It's print where you get limited space. I really feel like the closer shots that are only of the hood or fender etc show all the details a customer needs to see, and the full shot just kind of puts a puzzle together for them.

For the actual size that I post them to web, I use 900 pixel max (width or height). I have my general photography site schotography.com and on there I have coppermine gallery, a photograph gallery software. That software automatically resizes the image into 3 images
1. Original (as uploaded) in my case 900 max h/w
2. "Normal" 600 max h/w
3. Thumb 100 max h/w
With this online software I believe you can set you specifications to change the size of the "normal" and thumb as you see needed.

As far as sunrise/sunset + flash shots, you are going to need something other than the stock flash (unless you can find a great diffuser for it.

For the ISO I try not to go above 400, but the second to last shot I took was 800iso, still came out ok. Again, I would stick to manual ISO and change the settings as needed. In fact I have an extra tripod here if you wanted it to take longer pictures, this way you won't have to worry about the ISO.

Although I know you were talking to the other Mike, my go to lens is a Tamron 17-35 2.8, all the pictures above were taken with that lens.

hth
 
I have used Canon rebels and have loved them. I always recommend the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson, to anybody new with a DSLR. Its a real waste if you buy a DSLR and just shoot in auto mode.
 
I suggest picking up the book "Understanding Exposure", by Bryan Peterson! :xyxthumbs:

I have the Canon XSi and it has helped me out a LOT!
 
Mike, what lens are you using in that photo of you taking a photo of the paint?
 
AeroCleanse said:
Mike, what lens are you using in that photo of you taking a photo of the paint?
Click to expand...

The out of the box EFS 18-55mm lens.

When I worked for Meguiar's I had a close-up lens and never used it as for myself it was just too overkill.

Plus detailing bays tend to be dusty and even if I used it for close-up work I would immediately be ready to switch back to the normal lens and it was just too much hassle.

YMMV


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The out of the box EFS 18-55mm lens.

When I worked for Meguiar's I had a close-up lens and never used it as for myself it was just too overkill.

Plus detailing bays tend to be dusty and even if I used it for close-up work I would immediately be ready to switch back to the normal lens and it was just too much hassle.

YMMV


:)
Click to expand...

I have a 10D and 50mm 1.8 and 28mm-105mm zoom. Just got the 10D after one eBay went bad (shipped to the wrong address).

So I haven't started using it on cars yet. Darn snow. :doh: :awman:
 
Finally got to shoot some pix of my car. About half way through the manual but dying to shoot some pix. Just put it on Landscape to see how it would do.

Best light I could get today.

I set the camera to Landscape and AF was on. No shopping, took these at 8mb and then used Easy Thumbnails to shrink them down.

tn_IMG_0071.JPG


(For those who read my other thread about don't believe what you always see in pix, this is the same car with crows feet in the hood.)

tn_IMG_0066.JPG


tn_IMG_0067.JPG


The landscape is supposed to generate "vivid" darks. This almost looks a little unreal but good for a for sale pix I think. (Well save for the fact I need to find a place with a better background.)

Anyway, can't wait to get into reading the recommended materials and get my flash back from my neighbor.

P.S. And figure out how to get good pix in the sun!
 
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you can always set the contrast / color/ sharpness in camera to your liking
 
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