Anyone have experience with the new corded XCE compared to the 3401?

Backstory, a Cyclo was my first tool back in the late 80s. In 2014 I started reading this forum and decided it was time to upgrade my tool. I went with the 3401. I did not like it and it never grew on me I still picked up my Cyclo. To me, it did whatever it wanted to do and is a very physical tool so I sold it rather quickly.

I have had many tools in between and still do have a ton of tools but I did pick up the new XCE. Personally, I think it's light years ahead of the 3401.
c5874f3067944b7616df8dd14b7559b6.jpg
 
I do.

Amazing tool. Smoother, quieter, lighter and cooler than the original.

It does not have the same maximum RPM or OPM as the original.


BEAST = 480 RPM and 9,600 OPM

Supa BEAST = 430 RPM and 8,600 OPM

CBEAST = 380 RPM and 7,600 OPM



Here's my take, if I REALLY want to bust out a job and plow through it as fast as humanly possible I use the BEAST. If not trying to hit Warp Speed - I grab the Supa Beast, much more enjoyable to use. If I have an easy job, that means the car has only light swirls, scratches, etc. and I'm not in a hurry then I grab the CBEAST.

Best pads I've found for the BEAST and Supa BEAST are either the Lake Country 6.5" Force Hybrid Pads, I can pretty much do anything with Orange, White and Black.

I also really like the RUPES 7" foam pad, in all colors, just depends on the project. For polishing gel-coat - the blue and green. For polishing car paint - the yellow and white. I like the TAPERED edge on the RUPES pads as it works well with the reach and buffing characteristics of the gear-driven 8mm tool action.

For the CBEAST - at this time I don't think there's a PERFECT pad for this tool but I do like the Buff & Shine Uro-Tech pads.



:)
 
More,


And from your other post,

Looking for guidance on Audi paint correction.


I shared this. In an effort to help others, I wrote this article.


Supa BEAST backing plate swap



And just to comment,

Talking about tools by their part numbers is a joke. I've shared my thoughts on this with most tool manufactures that we sell. Some get it. Some don't.

For example, when Makita launched their gear-driven polisher they did NOT give it a catchy name. It is referred to by it's part number and nobody is ever going to talk, speak or type out the part number.

PO5000C

The tool has in my opinion, also never "caught on". It has it's fans, but not like the BEAST has it's fans.


So here's the nicknames for the FLEX tools,


FLEX 3401 - the original - The BEAST - and the BEAST is spelled with all capital letters. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.

FLEX XCE CORDED - The Supa BEAST - Supa is short for super and only the first letter is capitalized. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.

FLEX XCE CORDLESS - The CBEAST - All capital letters and the letter C before the word BEAST simply stands for cordless. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.

FLEX XFE7-15 - The FINISHER - The FINISHER is spelled using all capital letters -this is a 15mm FREE SPINNING random orbital polisher

FLEX XFE15 - This is - The CORDLESS FINISHER. This is the cordless version of the corded FINISHER. At this time I'm not aware of any nicknames for this tool Like the corded FINISHER, this is a 15mm FREE SPINNING random orbital polisher.

FLEX PXE 80 - Is called The PiXiE - Basically you're running the letters PXE together when you say it and it comes out Pixie, which in mythology is a small fairy, or in this case a small tool. Chris Metcalf came up with the idea to type the part numbers in all capitals and the two letters i in lower case like this, PiXiE. I respect Chris and his twist on this nickname and that's why you see me type it out this way. I coined the term pixie, Chris came up with the spelling. In the new FLEX catalog FLEX called it the "Game Changer" for a nickname but that name has not caught on while the nickname pixie has caught on.

FLEX PE14-2-150 - This is simply - The PE14 - I am not aware of any nicknames for this tool but I would say that the part number, PE14 is the normal and accepted nickname for the full part number PE14-2-150, which no one is ever going to say or type to refer to this tool.

FLEX PE-150 - This is the cordless version of the PE14 and I am not aware of any nickname for this tool except to say - The cordless version of the PE14


Clear as mud?


:buffing:
 
Thank you, love to hear the feedback on user experience related stuff. I’m just a weekend warrior so the experience is more important than the polishers maximum capabilities.
 
Wow, Thanks Mike. Great info and thank you for taking the time to go into detail.

I would like to try and stick with 5-5.5” pads and honestly that’s just because I like my current pad storage solution and it wont accommodate larger pads. I use a lot of the rupes pads but have heard the 3401 is really hard on the thicker pads. Are you using the regular pads or their thinner pads for the mille?

I am just a hobbyist so the difference in rpm isn’t a concern of mine as I am not trying to knock time off of jobs.

Mike Phillips said:
I do.

Amazing tool. Smoother, quieter, lighter and cooler than the original.

It does not have the same maximum RPM or OPM as the original.


BEAST = 480 RPM and 9,600 OPM

Supa BEAST = 430 RPM and 8,600 OPM

CBEAST = 380 RPM and 7,600 OPM



Here's my take, if I REALLY want to bust out a job and plow through it as fast as humanly possible I use the BEAST. If not trying to hit Warp Speed - I grab the Supa Beast, much more enjoyable to use. If I have an easy job, that means the car has only light swirls, scratches, etc. and I'm not in a hurry then I grab the CBEAST.

Best pads I've found for the BEAST and Supa BEAST are either the Lake Country 6.5" Force Hybrid Pads, I can pretty much do anything with Orange, White and Black.

I also really like the RUPES 7" foam pad, in all colors, just depends on the project. For polishing gel-coat - the blue and green. For polishing car paint - the yellow and white. I like the TAPERED edge on the RUPES pads as it works well with the reach and buffing characteristics of the gear-driven 8mm tool action.

For the CBEAST - at this time I don't think there's a PERFECT pad for this tool but I do like the Buff & Shine Uro-Tech pads.



:)
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Lt1ssteve said:
Wow, Thanks Mike. Great info and thank you for taking the time to go into detail.

I would like to try and stick with 5-5.5” pads and honestly that’s just because I like my current pad storage solution and it wont accommodate larger pads.
Click to expand...

The RUPES 6" pads work great on the 5" backing plate on FLEX gear-driven tools. No problems. The TAPER is nice on RUPES pads. I give them,

:dblthumb2:




Lt1ssteve said:
I use a lot of the rupes pads but have heard the 3401 is really hard on the thicker pads.
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The BEAST is hard on everything - that's why it's the BEAST!

But I get YEARS out of my pads on the beast. Most, if not all the pads you see here are old and used. Still going strong.

many pads I used.


Review: 3D Paint Coating and 3D One Cutting Compound and Finishing Polish


3D_Ceramic_Paint_Coating_001.JPG





Lt1ssteve said:
Are you using the regular pads or their thinner pads for the mille?
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On flat panels the RUPES MILLE pads work great, (thin pads), I find when buffing curvy cars the thicker RUPES pads seem to feel better when transitioning between planes.


Lt1ssteve said:
I am just a hobbyist so the difference in rpm isn’t a concern of mine as I am not trying to knock time off of jobs.
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Copy that. Once in a while you see complainers complaining about things like this and I just remind myself - I'm not an Engineer.



:)
 
Picked one up. Amazing tool for sure. I don’t have a 3401 on hand to compare side by side but from my reflection it feels significantly more docile than I remember the 3401 being. Started in on a two step on my wife new Audi today and tested out a bunch of pads. Meguiars microfiber cutting pads and uro fiber 50/50 pads work great on it and followed up with some perfect finish on a rupes yellow and seems to do great.

I think the people saying you need forced rotation specific pads on these seem to be a bit overblown from my initial experience.

Once again thanks for the help Mike.
 
Lt1ssteve said:
Picked one up. Amazing tool for sure. I don’t have a 3401 on hand to compare side by side but from my reflection it feels significantly more docile than I remember the 3401 being.
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Ha ha....

First time I've ever seen the word

docile

Used to describe the difference between the BEAST and the Supa BEAST. But that would be an accurate way to describe the handling and user experience between the two tools.

:laughing:



Lt1ssteve said:
Started in on a two step on my wife new Audi today and tested out a bunch of pads. Meguiars microfiber cutting pads and uro fiber 50/50 pads work great on it and followed up with some perfect finish on a rupes yellow and seems to do great.

I think the people saying you need forced rotation specific pads on these seem to be a bit overblown from my initial experience.
Click to expand...

Like a lot of things detailing related, much of what is experienced is relative to the person but also the type of cars they buff out.

Generally speaking, I do find thin pads don't feel as comfortable on gear-driven tools as thicker pads and most microfiber pads are on the thin side.

The experience to me is grabby. Of course, the type and lubricity of the product being used can be a huge influence.



Lt1ssteve said:
Once again thanks for the help Mike.
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I appreciate you're taking the time to do a follow up. Also, if the help you received here helped you to make the decision to purchase a FLEX Supa BEAST, no matter where you bought it, I find that rewarding too.

It's a powerful tool that simply gets the job done without a person having to fool around with pad stalling.

I used one myself to buff out a 1932 Ford Roadster Highboy after first removing all the pinstripes.


65a1f3706061b4e4170af38c941c1573.jpg


bcdb7cabc6fa5ce4266d9fbae5ceae82.jpg



:)
 
Your right, a little grabby with the thin pads with some of the products I tested but seemed to be ok with the sonax stuff as long as I didn’t work it too long.
 
great tool, i consider this to be my next investment, i am acrobating between this and a flex rotary
 
Reno said:
great tool, i consider this to be my next investment, i am acrobating between this and a flex rotary
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Get the Supa BEAST.


I consider myself and expert with a rotary polisher and I rarely use it compared to the BEAST or the Supa BEAST.


The rotary is the way to go when you have MAJOR correction work to do on really hard paint or if you're going to wetsand an entire car and then have to remove 100% of the sanding marks. But for the majority of paint correction you're ever going to do the Supa BEAST is MORE than enough.

And I know I've shared this with you in the past few days or weeks, but to hit this topic again - factory clearcoats are THIN. If 8 to 12 SOLID section passes with a quality compound and cutting pad doesn't remove the defects using either the BEAST or the Supa BEAST - then you probably ought to leave them be - NOT get more aggressive with a rotary and chase them until they are gone.

All you have to do is buff through the clearcoat on someone else's car ONE TIME and it will all sink in.



:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
And I know I've shared this with you in the past few days or weeks, but to hit this topic again - factory clearcoats are THIN. If 8 to 12 SOLID section passes with a quality compound and cutting pad doesn't remove the defects using either the BEAST or the Supa BEAST - then you probably ought to leave them be - NOT get more aggressive with a rotary and chase them until they are gone.

All you have to do is buff through the clearcoat on someone else's car ONE TIME and it will all sink in.



:)
Click to expand...

thanks Mike for your response. thats true, you've already shared this with me and if you say so, with so many years of exp, i will listen to you. either way, this tool is in my head from day one :D i will give it a try. already owned a rupes nano, a rupes 15mm (no matter what fellow members say, stalling is a problem for me ) and a 75mm polisher. with supa beast the quarteto will be complete
 
The rupes stalling was never what I would call an “issue” for me cause I was able to work around it and it still does remove imperfections without spinning just a little slower and needs some extra attention but it did detract from the user experience for me. To the point where I found myself using my cheap 21mm Chinese da more than the rupes for a lot of stuff. Then the rupes went down and I never bothered fixing it, just used the Chinese knock off till recently when I got the corded xce. Can’t go back now. Only thing the rupes lrh15 offered over it was it was smoother.
 
SUPA BEAST is on its way! cant wait to use it! :buffing: also ordered 6" backing plate.
 
Good luck with it! Flex sure makes some GREAT machines.
 
Reno said:
SUPA BEAST is on its way! cant wait to use it! :buffing: also ordered 6" backing plate.
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You’ll love it. I tried it with a bunch of 6” pads as well and ended up liking the stock backing plate and 5” pads a lot more. So far I’m about 4 corrections in, did a couple sealant applications with it and some spot corrections. Love the force hybrid wool pads from lake country as well as the force pads and rupes pads. Thin pads, at least in 5” aren’t as friendly imo.
 
Lt1ssteve said:
You’ll love it. I tried it with a bunch of 6” pads as well and ended up liking the stock backing plate and 5” pads a lot more.

So far I’m about 4 corrections in, did a couple sealant applications with it and some spot corrections. Love the force hybrid wool pads from lake country as well as the force pads and rupes pads. Thin pads, at least in 5” aren’t as friendly imo.
Click to expand...


I already have for sale my RUPES Mark III deluxe kit. Dont use it anymore. Its brand new, but it dont suit my style and working needs.

My rupes nano is perfect for what i do. but no more rupes for me.

I tried makita force rotation and BOOM!!! Mike Phillips was very very right!


Cant wait to receive my SUPA BEAST.



:)
 
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