Applied/Testing GTechniq C1

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I am a big fan of all the super coatings that are offered (Optimum Opti-Coat/Guard,CarPro CQuartz).They perform well for ease of maintenance cleaning,helping to prevent marring and IMO leave a nice shine/finish on a variety colors of vehicles I applied them to.
There is another one out there that not to many people have committed about or reviewed that they have used it,and that would be GTechniq C1 (Crystal Lacquer NanoCoat).
I have tried almost every product offered from GTechniq and can say for me,they work extremely well (especially G1,C4 and C5):
C1_001.jpg


But today I wanted to try out the C1 NanoCoating:
C1_003.jpg


I wanted to test the C1 against CQuartz for performance,especially against hard water spots that seem to be of a small issue for me.The vehicle that will be the guinea pig for the test will be one of my daily driver that already has a coat of CQuartz on it:
C1_004.jpg


So for my little test,i'm going to apply C1 to the passenger side of the hood.So I taped off this section for polishing to remove the CQuartz:
C1_007.jpg


For polishing I'll be using GTechniq's P1 and My Flex PE14-2-150 and a LC orange thin (7/8") 5.5" buffing pad:
C1_006.jpg


After polishing and removing the CQuartz:
C1_007.jpg


Even thou the P1 contains No polishing oils or fillers
Quote from GTechniq about P1
"P1 is a very different kind of polish. Breakthroughs in nano-structured composite materials allowed us to develop an incredibly uniform abrasive particle on the nanoscopic scale. This allows us to manufacture a polish that requires almost no lubrication, which offers three important advantages.

The first is speed / effort. With many more active particles working the surface, the polish works faster with less effort than traditional compound abrasives.

Secondly with virtually no lubricant, a P1 finish doesn't suffer "drop back". This is where the lubricants in a traditional polish hide minor imperfections, typically micro scratches in the polished surface, only for them to be revealed after the lubricants have washed off. With P1 what you see is what you get.


Finally, temperature. Or to be more precise, the lack of it. Smaller active particle size means the surface doesn't heat up nearly as much as with conventional abrasives. This means much less likelihood of burning through paint and it also means you can make several passes over the same area to remove stubborn scratches, without fear of over polishing."

I still decided to do a wipe down with OPC and IsopropylAlcohol(mixed with water 4:1) to make sure there was no polish residue present:
C1_008.jpg


When I sprayed the area with water after wiping down with OPC and Iso,there was no beading and when wiping to dry it was clear the CQuartz was polished off:
C1_009.jpg


Squeaky clean,prepped, and dried,ready for the C1:
C1_010.jpg


Just for half the hood,I dabbed my applicator with C1:
C1_011.jpg


and start to apply to the hood.I noticed the C1 has a consistancy and ease of spread ability like CQuartz (a little goes a longgg way):
C1_012.jpg


The C1's application is humidity sensitive and cures rather quick.You are to apply the C1 to the area you want coated and wipe off (lightly,NOT BUFF) gently immediately after.Approximately 70% of the curing cycle occurs in the first 2-10min.(depending on humidity),with 100% of the curing time within 3hrs.

After wiping lightly the applied C1:
C1_013.jpg

C1_014.jpg

C1_015.jpg

C1_016.jpg


The CQuartz side,I put the (CQ) bottle in the picture just for reference as the CQ has been applied for several months:
C1_017.jpg


C1:
C1_018.jpg


CQuartz:
C1_019.jpg


I can say that both the C1 and the CQuartz have look similar,almost a glass like appearance.The Humidity was around 60% and the C1 wiped away rather easily.I'm going to monitor both sides after rain showers and washing to see if either side shows a noticeable gain for repelling water spots over one another.
I'll also confirm that the C1 cleans as well as the CQuartz and holds true to marr resistance.
 
Chris, I was really looking forward to hearing your thoughts on this, expecially as you have lots of experience with the other 2. The thing I have heard with this is that it needs to be removed sooner than later, unlike CQ that it really doesn't matter that much how long it sits prior to removal. (That's been my experience anyway). You mentioned it cures within 3 hours. What is the time frame for the surface hardness to be at its maximum? With CQ it's 7 days as it is with OC. Just curious to see how it compared in that regard. Looking forward to your updates.
BTW, the P1 sounds very interesting. What would you compare it to with cut and work time and how it finishes down?
 
Chris, I was really looking forward to hearing your thoughts on this, expecially as you have lots of experience with the other 2. The thing I have heard with this is that it needs to be removed sooner than later, unlike CQ that it really doesn't matter that much how long it sits prior to removal. (That's been my experience anyway). You mentioned it cures within 3 hours. What is the time frame for the surface hardness to be at its maximum? With CQ it's 7 days as it is with OC. Just curious to see how it compared in that regard. Looking forward to your updates.
BTW, the P1 sounds very interesting. What would you compare it to with cut and work time and how it finishes down?

Hey Richy.I was just heading out the door to go help my brother with a vehicle issue but thought I would check this thread before I left.

I actually have a call into GTechniq about the hardness curing time.It is published thou that the C1 is fully cured at 3hrs.I'll let you know when I find out.
The P1 is a product I would compare to Menz PF but consider that the P1 is also pad sensitive.The P1 does NOT dust at all but you have to watch that you do NOT work the product before it dries out but that has not been the case for me yet because the working time is almost as long as Menz PF.The pictures that I posted after using the P1 (before applying C1) show that it finished down LSP ready and I didn't have to use the P2.Other paints hardness/softness may and probley will react differently but with my Chrysler,I was good to go.
Hope this helps?
I'll get back to this post on the hardness factor ;)
 
I like C1. Would be interested to see how it compares to Opti-Guard
 
Thank you for the great review of Gtechniq products. We seem to hear a lot about Opti Guard/Coat and CQuartz but nothing about C1 and Aquartz. Looking forward to future updates.
 
I finally got my order in the other day. After my first application I found that even after a light initial buff and periodic haze removal, there were some cloudy spots that wouldn't wipe off. I used very little product and I made sure to just wipe off the rainbow-y residue, but I couldn't avoid some permanent hazing. Make sure you stay on top of it after you think it's finished sweating.
 
Here's a quick description of what I did 24 hours later. I'm doing this for full disclosure in hopes of either drawing attention to me being an idiot, or to help others with application. Rob Earle wasn't too much help when I spoke with him about the hazing, but that was mostly due to no pictures to accurately describe what I was seeing. I decided to try a quick finishing buff with Menz 085rd and a Meguiars MF Finishing Pad. To my surprise, this actually did a lot more than remove the hazing.

10p4t3t.gif


The bottom is the part that wasn't covered with painters tape. The difference in clarity was very much unexpected. Again, I waited until the C1 was fully cleared before trying this. It was a last ditch effort before attempting to strip off the C1 with 105 + Surbuf. Any opinions about the post application polish would be appreciated.
 
The C1 is fully hardened (Cured) after 12hrs,no matter what the temp.(Rob:GTechniq)
He said in the Summer,3hrs should be all that is needed for full cure.
 
Chris,

Superb review and gorgeous results. These new coatings are amazing and the GTechniq C1 appears to be a top performer.

Great photos and writeup!! :dblthumb2:
 
Here's a quick description of what I did 24 hours later. I'm doing this for full disclosure in hopes of either drawing attention to me being an idiot, or to help others with application. Rob Earle wasn't too much help when I spoke with him about the hazing, but that was mostly due to no pictures to accurately describe what I was seeing. I decided to try a quick finishing buff with Menz 085rd and a Meguiars MF Finishing Pad. To my surprise, this actually did a lot more than remove the hazing.

10p4t3t.gif


The bottom is the part that wasn't covered with painters tape. The difference in clarity was very much unexpected. Again, I waited until the C1 was fully cleared before trying this. It was a last ditch effort before attempting to strip off the C1 with 105 + Surbuf. Any opinions about the post application polish would be appreciated.

I wish I could help why you experienced the cloudiness/hazing but 12hrs later,my C1 application looks crystal clear.:dunno:
 
Nice review Chris! :xyxthumbs:


I still need to revisit both C1 and P1. My first attempt at C1 resulted in the product not leveling out and I ended up removing it and going with OC instead.


I've only tried P1 once on the DA but it dusted like crazy for me! I'll have to give it another whirl on the rotary. ;)


Cheers,
Rasky
 
Nice review Chris! :xyxthumbs:





I've only tried P1 once on the DA but it dusted like crazy for me! I'll have to give it another whirl on the rotary. ;)


Cheers,
Rasky

A little water will stop the dusting.
 
Thanks for the excellent photos and writeup Chris!

I finally got to use the P1 last weekend with a rotary and had just a bit of very fine dusting.
 
I wish I could help why you experienced the cloudiness/hazing but 12hrs later,my C1 application looks crystal clear.:dunno:
My guess is that I didn't use a plush microfiber to do the initial wipes. I used the indigo cobra all purpose towels because I didn't want to waste an expensive, fluffy one. The indigo isn't a great towel at absorbing/holding product, so I'm going to test the next section with a fluffier towel.

Aside from the hazing/darkness, I'm very happy with the C1. I have a line longer than I can handle waiting for me to get more in stock to apply it to their cars. For me it's been an easy way to upsell a full polish for someone that wouldn't normally get their car detailed. The idea of easier cleaning and longer protection is wonderful for a daily driver.
 
My guess is that I didn't use a plush microfiber to do the initial wipes. I used the indigo cobra all purpose towels because I didn't want to waste an expensive, fluffy one. The indigo isn't a great towel at absorbing/holding product, so I'm going to test the next section with a fluffier towel.

I ordered a few from GTechniq when I got my C1, they are pretty cheap price wise.
 
I'm not trying to de-rail your thread, just add some more experiences with the same product. We figured out that it was sweating so much because I wasn' spreading the product as thin as I needed to. I used the same amount to do the whole top of the trunk as I did on 1/5th of the hood. For me, when I thought I was using the right amount, there's a good chance that you can still use less. I could see 15-20 ml for a mid sized car being possible. That leaves a good amount left for headlights, tail lights and various trim pieces. Thank you for confirming that just a small bit of product will cover a large area.
 
Just finished the Bullitt Mustang, and I have just above 1/3rd of a 25ml bottle left. It seems like the 14-20 ml per car was right on the money. I really expected the bottle to really only last 1 car.
 
Just finished the Bullitt Mustang, and I have just above 1/3rd of a 25ml bottle left. It seems like the 14-20 ml per car was right on the money. I really expected the bottle to really only last 1 car.

I'm doing a remote correction/Super Protectant (C1) on a S10,I plan I'll be using half of a 30ml bottle.A little spreads along way IME.
 
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