Armour Pro Quartz Coating v.2

As a matter of fact I got about the 3 years out of Adams Graphene Advanced when used on wheels.
On a daily driver to get a little over 1 year is just not worth it to coat them with a dedicated wheel coating. I have had better performance from a paint coating than a dedicated wheel coating, excluding 22ple VM1. CarPro Cquartz UK, Gyeon Mohs Evo and Adams Advanced Graphene are just a few examples. We are often sold on the idea that we need a dedicated wheel coating for the heat resistance and now some are saying because they handle abrasion better. I personally don't buy into this based on my experiences with various coatings for about 20 years at this point.

I've never felt the need to use a wheel coating for the same reason. I've used various paint coatings on my wheels and seen multi-year durability from them. Right now the wheels on my car are at the final stages of an application of Gyeon Pure EVO I applied over two years ago.

I always seem to have some leftover coating in a bottle in my garage so there is no need to go out and buy something specific. Even if I had nothing on hand, I can get a 10ml bottle of CQUK to use on the wheels which is easily half the price of any bottle of a dedicated wheel coating.
 
I've never felt the need to use a wheel coating for the same reason. I've used various paint coatings on my wheels and seen multi-year durability from them. Right now the wheels on my car are at the final stages of an application of Gyeon Pure EVO I applied over two years ago.

I always seem to have some leftover coating in a bottle in my garage so there is no need to go out and buy something specific. Even if I had nothing on hand, I can get a 10ml bottle of CQUK to use on the wheels which is easily half the price of any bottle of a dedicated wheel coating.

Do you still have Pure Evo on your brz? I remember you mentioning using it on that car and I just happen to be waiting on delivery of the same car in WRB. I’ve always been curious about the gyeon evo line but never had the chance. The last coating I used was ADS quartz and it’s still strong after a year. Removal was a little smeary for me and I wouldn’t mind using it again but like to try something new when I get a chance.
 
I do not have Pure Evo on my car any longer, but not because of anything wrong with the coating.

I was rear-ended a little over a year ago and a large portion of the rear surface area was repainted. Since the coating was already a year old, I re-did the whole car with ADS Quartz, just to try something new.

From what I've seen of ADS Quartz, I think it will last longer than Pure EVO, but that's just a hunch. I do think ADS's chemical resistance is better when faced with things like bird droppings, and it has better water behavior - but only slightly. Both look amazing on WRB. Application of Pure Evo was easier, but I've heard ADS has been updated. Neither were as easy for me as Mohs EVO...but I also don't think Mohs EVO would look as good on WRB paint as Pure EVO or ADS Quartz.
 
... I just happen to be waiting on delivery of the same car in WRB. .
I just hit 2k miles on mine after taking delivery in October. I think you'll find it quite the entertaining vehicle! I look forward to driving it each day for a number of reasons, some of them driving-related and some of them merely convenience-focused.

Enjoy!
 
I do not have Pure Evo on my car any longer, but not because of anything wrong with the coating.

I was rear-ended a little over a year ago and a large portion of the rear surface area was repainted. Since the coating was already a year old, I re-did the whole car with ADS Quartz, just to try something new.

From what I've seen of ADS Quartz, I think it will last longer than Pure EVO, but that's just a hunch. I do think ADS's chemical resistance is better when faced with things like bird droppings, and it has better water behavior - but only slightly. Both look amazing on WRB. Application of Pure Evo was easier, but I've heard ADS has been updated. Neither were as easy for me as Mohs EVO...but I also don't think Mohs EVO would look as good on WRB paint as Pure EVO or ADS Quartz.

Oof, sorry to hear about the accident. The reason I thought of Pure Evo was how many times I've heard how good it looks on darker colored cars. But I actually ended up picking up an Ice Silver TS this weekend. I was split on the 2 colors for a couple months. I usually go with stealthier colors (grey, black, white) so WRB would be a big leap for me. In the end a local dealer gave me an offer I couldn't refuse so I went with grandpa grey. I didn't know ADS was updated, I guess it would be the safe bet since I've already used it. I just like to try new things for no good reason ha.

I just hit 2k miles on mine after taking delivery in October. I think you'll find it quite the entertaining vehicle! I look forward to driving it each day for a number of reasons, some of them driving-related and some of them merely convenience-focused.

Enjoy!

Nice! Had a question I think you're qualified to answer. I'm going to PPF the full front of the car, doors and side rockers. Most likely black ppf on the roof as well. I believe you've used PPF specific coatings, are they worth it? I don't know how they would also perform on the non-PPF sections so that makes it tricky unless I use 2 separate coatings. My other car has front bumper and hood ppf and it always had whatever coating was on the car since day 1. It has a topcoat (suntek ultra) so I never knew if the ceramic coating really did anything. I'm also using some kind of topper once a month or so (currently ADS Amplify) so it's hard to tell when things start to degrade.

There’s also the thought that I could just use a spray sealant regularly instead. This car will be garaged and I live in southern CA so no harsh conditions.
 
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Oof, sorry to hear about the accident. The reason I thought of Pure Evo was how many times I've heard how good it looks on darker colored cars. But I actually ended up picking up an Ice Silver TS this weekend. I was split on the 2 colors for a couple months. I usually go with stealthier colors (grey, black, white) so WRB would be a big leap for me. In the end a local dealer gave me an offer I couldn't refuse so I went with grandpa grey. I didn't know ADS was updated, I guess it would be the safe bet since I've already used it. I just like to try new things for no good reason ha.
Nothing wrong with trying a new product. I enjoy trying out new things all the time just to see what they are like. You never know if you'll miss out on something really good if you don't try.

Congrats on the Silver Ts. It's a pretty rare color. I think I've only seen one or two since the second generation started production, but I like the way it highlights the style lines of the car. Around here the BRZ's tend to be black, white, or gray. A lot of the GR86's seem to be white or red.

I too have usually chosen more subdued colors, and I have a thing for black, but this time around I went in knowing I wanted blue. On the BRZ I was initially torn between WRB and the Sapphire Blue Perl. After looking at a few WRX's at work I quickly settled on WRB. It is brighter than anything else I've owned, but I really like it. The fact it is a trademarked color and only offered on the WRX and BRZ makes it a little more special too.

Since you ended up with Silver, you could try MOHS EVO. It's pretty reflective, very durable, great water behavior, and easier to apply than any other coating I've used. It looks fantastic on my wife's white pearl SUV.
 
Nothing wrong with trying a new product. I enjoy trying out new things all the time just to see what they are like. You never know if you'll miss out on something really good if you don't try.

Congrats on the Silver Ts. It's a pretty rare color. I think I've only seen one or two since the second generation started production, but I like the way it highlights the style lines of the car. Around here the BRZ's tend to be black, white, or gray. A lot of the GR86's seem to be white or red.

I too have usually chosen more subdued colors, and I have a thing for black, but this time around I went in knowing I wanted blue. On the BRZ I was initially torn between WRB and the Sapphire Blue Perl. After looking at a few WRX's at work I quickly settled on WRB. It is brighter than anything else I've owned, but I really like it. The fact it is a trademarked color and only offered on the WRX and BRZ makes it a little more special too.

Since you ended up with Silver, you could try MOHS EVO. It's pretty reflective, very durable, great water behavior, and easier to apply than any other coating I've used. It looks fantastic on my wife's white pearl SUV.

Yeah, definitely considering Mohs now that I went with silver. What do you think about the Skin Evo topcoat? Or Q2 Booster?
 
Nice! Had a question I think you're qualified to answer. I'm going to PPF the full front of the car, doors and side rockers. Most likely black ppf on the roof as well. I believe you've used PPF specific coatings, are they worth it? I don't know how they would also perform on the non-PPF sections so that makes it tricky unless I use 2 separate coatings. My other car has front bumper and hood ppf and it always had whatever coating was on the car since day 1. It has a topcoat (suntek ultra) so I never knew if the ceramic coating really did anything. I'm also using some kind of topper once a month or so (currently ADS Amplify) so it's hard to tell when things start to degrade.

There’s also the thought that I could just use a spray sealant regularly instead. This car will be garaged and I live in southern CA so no harsh conditions.

Greetings!

I've had PPF (both coating-infused/topcoat STEK Dynoshield and 'regular' XPEL) on cars and have had them wearing both PPF-specific coatings and 'regular' coatings. My thoughts, in a nutshell are that while PPF-specific coatings *may* have once been beneficial for a variety of reasons coatings have evolved enough that a PPF-specific coating really isn't necessary. When I was at SEMA 2 or 3 years ago I specifically asked a mfg rep for a company that produced both PPF-specific and 'regular' ceramic coatings what the difference was. His reply indicated that the primary difference was ease of use with the PPF-specific coating given that if you make a mistake coating PPF, you ain't polishing out that high spot like you would be able to do with coating on paint.

First car done fully wrapped with STEK Dynoshield and coated with PPF-specific Kamikaze Film Surface Coat. Did OK for 2-3 years driving daily April thru October; picked up some bonded contamination to the point I had to clay it before coating it again with Kamikaze ISM 3.0. The car has, overall, done better with the non-film specific coating leading me to believe that PPF-specific coatings are not quite as 'muscular' as 'regular' coatings even on PPF which generally provides a lesser lifespan than on a painted surface; coating just bonds better to paint, especially on a topcoat-type PPF.

Vette.JPG

Second car was completely wrapped in XPEL PPF and coated with a single layer of Kamikaze Zipang; this combination was the gift that kept on giving on this daily driven car, 365 days a year in Central, OH. Frankly, I was surprised how well it held up over 4 years, 40k miles. While I did hit it with either Kamikaze Over Coat or POLISHANGEL Cosmic Spritz after a wash every month or two between April & November, that thing would clean up like new even after not getting washed for a month or two in the winter. It was still doing great when I sold the car in August of 2025 and picked up the BRZ.

CaymanPPF.jpg

Third car just got XPEL PPF on front bumper, rocker panels and that little accent panel/vent behind the front wheel. I coated the whole thing (paint & PPF) in Kamikaze Zipang because, well...if it ain't broke, don't fix it. We'll see if it does as good as it did on the Cayman.

BRZPPF.JPG

For me, it always pays to coat a car with a dedicated coating as it lets me ignore it to some degree (especially in Winter) and still have it look amazing when need be...and with as little ongoing effort as possible. It could be that a spray sealant might do you just fine if you go that route; I kinda prefer to do the most I can up front as far as protection and then ride the goodness as long as I can w/ minimal effort.

TLDR: Nope, I don't believe PPF-specific coatings are necessary (anymore, they might have been at one time), find a coating you like and coat the whole car, PPF & non-PPF areas. That said, I have not tried every coating in the world so there are always exceptions to the rule but ss Mike Phillips said, "Find something you like and use it (often)"!

Hope this helps a bit and feel free to circle back with and additional questions!
 
Greetings!

I've had PPF (both coating-infused/topcoat STEK Dynoshield and 'regular' XPEL) on cars and have had them wearing both PPF-specific coatings and 'regular' coatings. My thoughts, in a nutshell are that while PPF-specific coatings *may* have once been beneficial for a variety of reasons coatings have evolved enough that a PPF-specific coating really isn't necessary. When I was at SEMA 2 or 3 years ago I specifically asked a mfg rep for a company that produced both PPF-specific and 'regular' ceramic coatings what the difference was. His reply indicated that the primary difference was ease of use with the PPF-specific coating given that if you make a mistake coating PPF, you ain't polishing out that high spot like you would be able to do with coating on paint.

First car done fully wrapped with STEK Dynoshield and coated with PPF-specific Kamikaze Film Surface Coat. Did OK for 2-3 years driving daily April thru October; picked up some bonded contamination to the point I had to clay it before coating it again with Kamikaze ISM 3.0. The car has, overall, done better with the non-film specific coating leading me to believe that PPF-specific coatings are not quite as 'muscular' as 'regular' coatings even on PPF which generally provides a lesser lifespan than on a painted surface; coating just bonds better to paint, especially on a topcoat-type PPF.

View attachment 139898

Second car was completely wrapped in XPEL PPF and coated with a single layer of Kamikaze Zipang; this combination was the gift that kept on giving on this daily driven car, 365 days a year in Central, OH. Frankly, I was surprised how well it held up over 4 years, 40k miles. While I did hit it with either Kamikaze Over Coat or POLISHANGEL Cosmic Spritz after a wash every month or two between April & November, that thing would clean up like new even after not getting washed for a month or two in the winter. It was still doing great when I sold the car in August of 2025 and picked up the BRZ.

View attachment 139900

Third car just got XPEL PPF on front bumper, rocker panels and that little accent panel/vent behind the front wheel. I coated the whole thing (paint & PPF) in Kamikaze Zipang because, well...if it ain't broke, don't fix it. We'll see if it does as good as it did on the Cayman.

View attachment 139901

For me, it always pays to coat a car with a dedicated coating as it lets me ignore it to some degree (especially in Winter) and still have it look amazing when need be...and with as little ongoing effort as possible. It could be that a spray sealant might do you just fine if you go that route; I kinda prefer to do the most I can up front as far as protection and then ride the goodness as long as I can w/ minimal effort.

TLDR: Nope, I don't believe PPF-specific coatings are necessary (anymore, they might have been at one time), find a coating you like and coat the whole car, PPF & non-PPF areas. That said, I have not tried every coating in the world so there are always exceptions to the rule but ss Mike Phillips said, "Find something you like and use it (often)"!

Hope this helps a bit and feel free to circle back with and additional questions!

Thanks for the detailed response. I’ve done coatings on every car for about a decade now so it would feel “off” to not do the same. The wife also just got a new car and I threw meguiars paint coating on it since I’ve had it on the shelf for almost a year now. It got me thinking that for a car that gets less love it’s nice to have protection that you know is there long term regardless of the maintenance on it. For my cars that get washed pretty much weekly I wonder if a simpler solution would suffice as long as performance is on par. That being said, it’s probably unlikely to happen when it comes to it because I can’t help myself.
 
Yeah, definitely considering Mohs now that I went with silver. What do you think about the Skin Evo topcoat? Or Q2 Booster?
Save your money and don't bother with either one. I applied MOHS EVO at least 18 months ago, maybe longer, (I need to check the little sticker I put in the door jam) and it is still performing really well. I've never given those types of product much attention, and I'm not sure what value they add. Almost every coating I've used has lived up to it's durability claims, and the water behavior has been consistent through 90% of that durability period.

The last time it rained, water still made really small, tight beads that flew right off the car. Removing snow was pretty easy too last weekend. On the cleaner horizontal surfaces it just slipped right off. Other places the snow stuck a bit, but the car is truly filthy since we've been below freezing for weeks. As for appearance, when it's clean, it still looks great.
 
IMG_7677.jpg
I agree with the Mohs Evo recommendation. Here is a recent beads pic on my daily driver after 16 months. So easy to apply. Plus easy to maintain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Save your money and don't bother with either one. I applied MOHS EVO at least 18 months ago, maybe longer, (I need to check the little sticker I put in the door jam) and it is still performing really well. I've never given those types of product much attention, and I'm not sure what value they add. Almost every coating I've used has lived up to it's durability claims, and the water behavior has been consistent through 90% of that durability period.

The last time it rained, water still made really small, tight beads that flew right off the car. Removing snow was pretty easy too last weekend. On the cleaner horizontal surfaces it just slipped right off. Other places the snow stuck a bit, but the car is truly filthy since we've been below freezing for weeks. As for appearance, when it's clean, it still looks great.

Did you do 1 or 2 coats of MOHS? I haven’t done 2 layers of anything for a long time but the brz is such a small car I feel like you’d only use half the bottle. Also, I was searching about Dr Beasley’s microsuede protection and one of your posts popped up. Any thoughts on it?
 
I don't think I've ever done two layers; never felt the need. You're right, the BRZ doesn't take much. I think I only used 1/3 ~1/2 of the bottle when I did Pure EVO. I'm not sure how much I used with ADS because the bottle was black and you can't see inside, but I'm pretty sure I used more since it goes on rather thick.

I still like the Dr. Beasley's microsuede products, though I'll admit I don't have anything to compare. I use both the cleaner and the protectant and my car is still looking really good. The stuff is expensive though. Sonax has a cleaner I've bee thinking about trying since I'm almost out of the Dr. Beasley's cleaner. My thoughts are to pair it with the Dr. Beasley's protectant and see how things work out.
 
I don't think I've ever done two layers; never felt the need. You're right, the BRZ doesn't take much. I think I only used 1/3 ~1/2 of the bottle when I did Pure EVO. I'm not sure how much I used with ADS because the bottle was black and you can't see inside, but I'm pretty sure I used more since it goes on rather thick.

I still like the Dr. Beasley's microsuede products, though I'll admit I don't have anything to compare. I use both the cleaner and the protectant and my car is still looking really good. The stuff is expensive though. Sonax has a cleaner I've bee thinking about trying since I'm almost out of the Dr. Beasley's cleaner. My thoughts are to pair it with the Dr. Beasley's protectant and see how things work out.

I was thinking the same. Sonax Alcantara cleaner + Beasley’s microsuede protection.
 
I don't think I've ever done two layers; never felt the need. You're right, the BRZ doesn't take much. I think I only used 1/3 ~1/2 of the bottle when I did Pure EVO. I'm not sure how much I used with ADS because the bottle was black and you can't see inside, but I'm pretty sure I used more since it goes on rather thick.

I still like the Dr. Beasley's microsuede products, though I'll admit I don't have anything to compare. I use both the cleaner and the protectant and my car is still looking really good. The stuff is expensive though. Sonax has a cleaner I've bee thinking about trying since I'm almost out of the Dr. Beasley's cleaner. My thoughts are to pair it with the Dr. Beasley's protectant and see how things work out.

How often did you reapply the microsuede protection btw? I can't find anything on it about longevity. Does the surface actually become hydrophobic after?
 
I use the cleaner and the protectant twice a year, usually early spring and late fall. In between those times, I frequently vacuum the fabric and wipe it down with a damp towel if needed. I do it this way mostly because it's not a quick/easy process when you do all the steps like wait for the cleaner to dry and then brush the fabric in two different directions when applying the protectant. I reserve that for my periodic deep cleans.

I've never really tested the product to see if it is actually hydrophobic. I seem to remember trying to test it with a drop of water the first time I used the protectant and it didn't really bead. Honestly, I'm not too worried about it.

After three years/30K miles and three seasons of autocross, the interior still looks pristine and new. I'm pretty happy with how the products are doing to keep it that way.
 
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