Asking advice on car maintanance plan

[paulsiu]

I plan to start a maintenance plan on several cars. 2 are own by my family, another 2 will be owned by my in-laws. I currently maintain the 2 cars own by my family. I wash the cars regularly and wax them with Meguiars NXT 2. NXT is easy to work with, but I find that it does not last more than a month especially on the hood. In the meantime, I notice that my in-law's cars are not being washed or waxed at all, so I want to do something to keep the finish from falling into ruin. In both cases, I am trying to minimize my time and effort.

I did some research on the internet and arrived at my plan based on following line of thinking.

1. Scott H has a series of youtube video that test various wax, sealant and coating long term. The only product I am familiar with (I am only familiar with over the counter stuff) was Nu-Finish. Nu-Finish, for better or worse, does appear to have a longer life than NXT. Nu-Finish however appears to give out at about 6 months. It was beaten by a bunch of coating and a sealant "Adam Paint Sealant".

2. I was thinking about using Adams. Apex detail appears to do a comparison between Adam and Jescar Power lock and seems to indicate that Powerlock had survive his durability test better. In another video, another YouTube had indicated that Power lock appears to survive the winter better than Adam's sealant.

3. A lot of detailers seems to use a Duragloss 105 + 601, but I weren't able to get info on how long this combo will last. Some of the forum post appear to indicate that it probably won't last as long as the Power Lock. It seems more troublesome to mix two components.

4. Other used a product call Collinite, but I don't seem too many reviews of long term tests.

Based on this, I was thinking of the following approach.
1. Wash car.
2. Clay car, but not the in-laws car because they think that claying is only for badly oxidized cars and will damage finish.
3. Strip current finish down with some sort of cleaner (not sure which one. I am open to suggestions to a product that doesn't damage the paint and clearcoat) to get a better bonding surface for the sealant.
4. Apply Jescar Power Lock.

Maintenance
1. Wash every 2 weeks or so. Wash in the driveway by hand if temperature allows it. In the winter, wash when possible at automatic car wash.
2. Clean and reapply Power Lock every 6 months.

Future Plans and ideas
A series of video shows several people use a combination of sealant layered over with a wax. Based on what I have read, the additional protection provided by the wax is dubious, but the second coat of wax apparently improves appearance.

I was thinking of doing a combination of Jescar Power Lock + Collinite 845 or 915 on my wife's car mostly because she would appreciate the extra shine. One issue would be the maintenance. I would need to renew the wax layer more often since once the wax layer is compromised, we would need to strip off the sealant and wax before reapplying the sealant so we apply sealant over wax.

Paul

 

[Eldorado2k]

2. Clay car, but not the in-laws car because they think that claying is only for badly oxidized cars and will damage finish.
3. Strip current finish down with some sort of cleaner (not sure which one. I am open to suggestions to a product that doesn't damage the paint and clearcoat) to get a better bonding surface for the sealant.

Based on your description of all the vehicles involved here they’ll all need to clayed, no if ands or buts about it... Nevermind what your in laws think about using a claybar, you’re the 1 doing the research therefore you’re the 1 with the most knowledge + you’re the 1 who’s doing the job so it’s up to you to make the right call and that’s the bottom line.

Clay all the vehicles after you do a thorough wash. Use plenty of claylube [I personally recommend using McKee’s N-914 Rinseless Wash Concentrate @ dilution of 1:128 in a spray bottle] mixed with distilled water and be sure to be very liberal with the claylube, drying each section immediately after you’re done claying as you move along the vehicle.

Claying doesn’t damage the finish, it removes embedded contaminants that are stuck on the paint and prevent it from being as smooth as the paint could/should be. Another important fact is that if you apply any kind of protection on top of rough contaminated paint you’ll just be sealing in all those contaminants + your paint will feel rough/like crap compared to perfectly smooth paint that can be had if you had used the claybar + any protection you apply will not last as long as it should because in order for it to form an optimal bond the paint needs to be uniformly flat and smooth.

Just use plenty of claylube and work smooth and let the paint dictate your speed, start kind of slow and speed up your motion as the paint becomes smoother and you’ll get excellent results and won’t harm a thing.

Make sure to work on a cool vehicle not in direct sunlight. Early morning or at sunset are the best times.

The claybar itself with strip the paint and get it prepped. You won’t need another specialized product.

Once you’ve applied the sealant, it’s ideal to do a hand wash about once per week, 2 weeks tops. If you let it go longer than that in between washings then you begin to see a slip in overall longevity unless you live in near perfect weather i.e. Southern California or something..

Re apply whatever sealant you decide to go with every 3 months if you want the results to be tip top. Applying every 6 months? Ehhh I wouldn’t recommend that in most cases unless the product you’re using is freakin great, and I don’t know of many popular choices that I’d put my money on.
3 months is actually doable in most cases...

Try to avoid automatic car washes because they tend to use harsh detergents that usually consist of 1 step using an acidic based wash, followed by an alkaline detergent, and both of those will wear down your protection faster than a PH neutral car shampoo that you can use when doing your own hand washing.

If it was me I’d stick to using a good sealant and not top it with a wax.
1. You’ll struggle to see a real difference in looks...
2. You’ll diminish the good solid layer of protection the sealant gave you and wind up experiencing more of the inferior characteristics of the wax.
3. It’s more time and work you’ll have to do.

Those are my basic tips for optimal paint protection that actually protects the paint and keeps it smooth and super easy to maintain.

 

[MattPersman]

Agreed with Eldo. Clay then use PowerLock since it seems you talked yourself into it as a top runner

I would agree on the every 3 months new sealant application as well

A nice gentle weekly wash is better than a heavy every 2 week wash. More work but it’s about keeping contaminants off the car for as long as possible

Life happens and not every one has the time or desire to maintain it that often either.

Automatic car washes can be good and bad. Some of the modern ones do a pretty good job honestly. I would rather run mine through them in the winter to try to keep salt off as well as they can than just let them sit till maybe some warmish day comes and I sit out there with a pressure washer for a long time trying to get it clean and freezing my hands off




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[UncleDavy]

Sound advice from Eldo. I understand about the necessity to go through an automatic car wash in the winter. Here in New England the road salt makes me crazy and I want to get out there every day with the hose and bucket but I know I can't when it is 10 degrees. As long as there is sun and the temperature is at least 30 degrees, I will do a bucket wash in the driveway. If you run through an automatic wash, it is a good idea to get home right away and finish the car in the garage (if you have one) with a waterless or rinseless wash.
Another winter washing method I have is to use my Worx Hydroshot. I fill buckets with hot water and the Hydroshot can draw water right from the bucket. No hose required. You will have to work fast and always face the car toward the sun.

 

[paulsiu]

Hi,

Thanks for your response.

Eldorado2k, ​

you are preaching to the choir. I only figured out what claying was a month ago but have clayed my wife's car using a Mothers claying kit last week and it seems to work ok. I did not clay my car yet mostly because I just purchased it less than a month ago. However, my in-laws are stubborn. It doesn't matter that I have done a lot of research, they will argue with me based on something they have heard. I will just have to clean it best I can and hope for the best. It's still better than no sealant.

The video show that power lock lasting 6 months, but you are correct that may be pushing it. My area may be different than the test. I move here a few years back and notice that the weather can got up to 90 degree or so in the summer with massive rain storms. In the winter, it snows, not all that much at a time, but then to stick around for days. I think I will play it by ear and see how long the power lock last. Hopefully it will last more than NXT's 1 month. I would like a product that last through the winter so I won't have to reapply in the middle of winter. I'll check after each month to see how the sealant is doing and reapply as necessary.

MattPersman and

UncleDavy, ​

​

I think trips to the automatic car wash is a must. If I look around, cars around me have rusted out fenders. We will need to do a undercarriage wash often. If I have to reapply sealant, I plan to run it through the automatic car wash, drive it to the garage and then use the rinseless car wash to finish it off before reapplying sealant.

Paul

 

[Belo]

the clay concern is completely unwaranted. if the term clay scares them, buy a synthetic mit. I'd recommend that anyhow, I love my mit. Use it with soap suds and it's 1000 times easier than clay.
I would also recommend you introduce a polish after clay. Clay to sealant isn't the best strategy. It'll still deliver, but even a hand polish at least annually needs to happen for swirls, fine scratches and to real help bring the paint back.
Griot?s Garage Fast Surface Prep Mitt also clay is mostly for stuck surface contamination. Where are they getting oxidation from?

 

[DMW]

It's crazy to me how some people are so against clay bar.

 

[Dan Tran]

I have yet to encounter someone against clay. When I do, I’ll share.


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[paulsiu]

I have no idea where my in-law got the idea that claying was bad and only for bad paint. The first time I heard about claying, it was when I handed my wife's car to a detailer for a mother's day surface. He said he was going to wash, clay, and wax the car. I had no idea what claying was and thought it was like putting a mud mask on a car. I didn't ask too many questions since I figure the detailer knew what he was doing. I did google stuff later and figured out the principle of how it worked.

I think a lot of people look up stuff but failed to go a little further and figure out the principle behind what they are looking up.


Belo,
How does these synthetic Mit work? Do they use the same material as clay? How do you prevent dirt captured on the mitt from scratching the clearcoat. With regular clay, you sort of move the clay regularly to expose new surface.


Paul

 

[Eldorado2k]

@OP. Wash your in laws vehicle and do a baggie test, if it fails claybar a test spot on the paint and have them feel the difference between the rough paint and the smooth test spot you just clayed. If that still doesn’t convince them then you should consider just doing a quik spray wax/spray sealant to maintain their vehicle.

 

[sudsmobile]

If anybody gave me any kind of push back about me wanting to help them out, I would just flatly tell them to do it themselves. I'm a my way or the highway guy. Not sure how long you've been married, but I wouldn't start cowtowing to my in laws. That's how they get you.

 

[PaulMys]

If anybody gave me any kind of push back about me wanting to help them out, I would just flatly tell them to do it themselves. I'm a my way or the highway guy. Not sure how long you've been married, but I wouldn't start cowtowing to my in laws. That's how they get you.

Nice.

I am the same way. You put it bluntly, and I do the same.

If I am asked to do something as a favor for good friends or family (Why won't my mower start? Why won't my toilet stop running? etc....etc...) I oblige.

If you question me? Here's the number of a good mechanic and plumber........ Both charge around $100 an hour.

Choose, or mute yourself.

 

[paulsiu]

I think I am being misunderstood. No one is asking me to do anything. However, I am bothered that my in-laws do not maintain their cars' finish. I will just envision looking at their car showing up on my drive way getting more decrepit looking as the years go by. I would like to so something to prevent this from happening.


On another note, I should probably just skip the polishing part except to fix noticeable issues. My concern is that I will make things worse as a amateur. One car is new and don't new polishing, another's paint appears to be OK mostly so I just want to prevent it from getting worse.

Paul

 

[Calendyr]

I think I am being misunderstood. No one is asking me to do anything. However, I am bothered that my in-laws do not maintain their cars' finish. I will just envision looking at their car showing up on my drive way getting more decrepit looking as the years go by. I would like to so something to prevent this from happening.


On another note, I should probably just skip the polishing part except to fix noticeable issues. My concern is that I will make things worse as a amateur. One car is new and don't new polishing, another's paint appears to be OK mostly so I just want to prevent it from getting worse.

Paul

If they don't care about it, why should you? Your help is not gonna be appreciated if they think it's a waste of time.

Me, if I was to do a maintenance plan, I would use a ceramic coating and fabric protector for the inisde of the vehicle to minimize the time I have to spend afterwards. Especiallly if you plan of doing polishing or paint correction to start with.

But again, if those people do not maintain their cars and have not asked you for help, I would not try to push it on them.

If you are starting a detailing business and need a portfolio, then yes, offer them a free detail, or offer to do the work for free if they purchase the products. Then take plenty of pictures to show what you can do. Otherwise, don't waste your time.

 

[TTQ B4U]

Wash, decontaminate both ways, polish/correct if needed and desired then coat the paint and trim and be done with them. Just wash and dry going forward. Zero need to reapply sealants every 6 months or even mess with dressing the trim for a long while.

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[paulsiu]

Thanks for the friendly advice, but I feel that discussion of family dynamic is outside of the scope of this forum, so I am trying to steer it back to the original technical topic.

I have review the two cars that I will start on first. One is a Red 2018 Mazda 3 that I just purchased, the other is a Red 2011 Subaru outback. I examined the car at night using a flashlight. The Subaru not surprisingly has a lot of chipped paint on the hood. Surprisingly, I don't see any swirls. The car is protected a coat of NXT. It's possible that the NXT is hiding the swirls. As mentioned before, there are some odd look puddle like defects that is noticeable only if you look at it really closely. They look sort of like large water stains but without the white mineral (the defect is same color as paint). The Subaru has been clayed recently.


I would like to see if I could remove the etched spot. I don't own a rotary tool, so will do it by hand. I am thinking I will use the Meguiar Ultimate Compound, which appears to work pretty well as a hand apply compound. Question, why do people tape an area before they apply the compound? I notice this in many of the instructional videos. Any tips on avoiding tearing through the clear coat. The spot is over a flat area. I was going to apply it on the spot and try rubbing it back and forth to see if it removes the spot and stop if it gets worse and continue if it gets better. How do I avoid rubbing through to the color coat? Do I need to use Meguiar Ultimate Polish to further polish the spot?

Other than clearing the spot, I don't plan do use the compound anywhere else. Current attach plan.

1. Wash with car wash (I think I have Turtle Ice).
2. Clay if necessary.

3. Polish out spot using Meguiar Ultimate Compound.

4. Wipe surface down using a paint prep. I am thinking of using Griot Paint Prep, which seems to get good reviews.
5. Apply Jescar power lock.