Bad M3...

CrownKote

CrownKote

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Hey Mike/AGO folks,

I have a paint correction scheduled for Sat/Sun and am needing some help...

This is a Dakar I Yellow (267) M3 that the paint is so washed out it sickens me... He uses the car as a dd but is wanting the paint looking good again... My thoughts are as follows:

Klasse AIO with white pad let soak for a short bit then DAMF the car then seal with CG JetSeal 109 (he lives in the mtns on a dirt road)

Here is the car (sorry I don't have any better pics yet those will come on Sat):
M3.jpg


Any help would be great... He is not so worried about scratches and swirls just wants a better looking M3! (Yes I have read KISS thread)
 
bad and m3 dont belong in the same sentence lol. so assuming he just wants it to shine it up again? klasse would be a good product.
 
Meguiars Speed Cut (#95) with a yellow pad followed by the JetSeal 109 would be a great finish. Better still, follow the polish up with the CG Blacklight.

I work on more BMWs than any other brand and have also worked on the Dakar yellow. These products will yield excellent results.
 
Jhaight11 said:
bad and m3 dont belong in the same sentence lol. so assuming he just wants it to shine it up again? klasse would be a good product.
Click to expand...

Yeah he is just wanting it to look shinier and a bit better... He said no real corrections as he is planning on getting it sprayed in about a year with the same color but a clear coat... He will be doing a huge overhaul on the motor and suspension (lowering it more and adding a fresh S50 motor built for twin turbos)

Shade Tree said:
Meguiars Speed Cut (#95) with a yellow pad followed by the JetSeal 109 would be a great finish. Better still, follow the polish up with the CG Blacklight.

I work on more BMWs than any other brand and have also worked on the Dakar yellow. These products will yield excellent results.
Click to expand...

I would think that with a yellow pad and 95 it would cut a lot and leave some maring... I have Klasse AIO and Jet Seal 109 I also have the DAMF system and the WG Twins and 105/205 but he wants the car done as quick as possible... And is only wanting to spend about $250.00 That is why I was thinking KAIO and JS109 for speed and durability...
 
If your technique needs some improvement then yes, there might be some marring left behind from the 95. The liklihood though is that there would be no marring left behind ........ with the Dakar (if properly polished) the color will be so bright any minor blemishes will be made transparent.

A pic of 95 used to remove swirls here: (no marring)

IMG_2814.jpg




Sealant applied with no fillers or polishes between the polishing and final topper:

IMG_2835.jpg
 
WOW... I haven't used 95 in a while... I was just figuring the yellow would be super aggressive along with a highly aggressive compound it would need to be leveled even more... I just red the snippet on it and it seems like it may work well for me... I may just go that route... What speed would you recommend on the flex pe 14 2?
 
CrownKote said:
WOW... I haven't used 95 in a while... I was just figuring the yellow would be super aggressive along with a highly aggressive compound it would need to be leveled even more... I just red the snippet on it and it seems like it may work well for me... I may just go that route... What speed would you recommend on the flex pe 14 2?
Click to expand...

I typically work this at speed setting #6 on the Flex.
 
M0nk3y said:
Any paint code with I (not II) is single stage.
Click to expand...

I have spoken with several owners of early II's and their cars are SS still... I guess that BMW was getting complaints that the M3's were "fading/washing out" so some time after the initial run of II's they changed to BC/CC...
 
I have had amazing results with Menzerna Power Finish and LC orange CCS on oxidized single stage paints.

I didnt see that in your list of products, but if you place an AG order today you should get it by Friday.
 
Garry Dean said:
I have had amazing results with Menzerna Power Finish and LC orange CCS on oxidized single stage paints.

I didnt see that in your list of products, but if you place an AG order today you should get it by Friday.
Click to expand...

Another good thought Gary... Ugh so many decisions...
Gary with the MPF would you recommend rotary and the orange CCS? If so what speed? (I may try a few diff areas and see what I like the best as far as it finishing down and shining up)
 
I would say if you are going to go over the whole car once anyway, don't waste your time with KAIO.

I would try either Menzerna Powerfinish or Meguiars Ultimate compound. I have had great results with both as one step products. They should knock all that oxidation off and bring back the shine in a big way.

As for pads I personally like the Hydrotech Cyan pads, but I think you would have great success with the LC orange pads as well. They aren't going to perform miracles, but they will get that car looking 100x better than it does now.
 
CrownKote said:
Another good thought Gary... Ugh so many decisions...
Gary with the MPF would you recommend rotary and the orange CCS? If so what speed? (I may try a few diff areas and see what I like the best as far as it finishing down and shining up)
Click to expand...


I would use a d/a. Skip the KAIO step as it isnt needed for this job. You can use a rotary if you like at around 1200-1500 rpm.

It sounds like you need to save time and skip to amazing results. You cannot go wrong with this combo.
 
Flannigan said:
I would say if you are going to go over the whole car once anyway, don't waste your time with KAIO.

I would try either Menzerna Powerfinish or Meguiars Ultimate compound. I have had great results with both as one step products. They should knock all that oxidation off and bring back the shine in a big way.

As for pads I personally like the Hydrotech Cyan pads, but I think you would have great success with the LC orange pads as well. They aren't going to perform miracles, but they will get that car looking 100x better than it does now.
Click to expand...

Yeah I am kinda at the point of not using KAIO I may order some MPF (I have M105 and MUC) and some 95 and play around a bit...

As far as pads I have the CCS Orange, White, and Red for the Flex PE14 2 (a few of each) and I have the DAMF system and CG Hex Logic pads (LOVE THESE!!!) for the DA...
 
CrownKote said:
Yeah I am kinda at the point of not using KAIO I may order some MPF (I have M105 and MUC) and some 95 and play around a bit...

As far as pads I have the CCS Orange, White, and Red for the Flex PE14 2 (a few of each) and I have the DAMF system and CG Hex Logic pads (LOVE THESE!!!) for the DA...
Click to expand...

IMO MPF is the better choice over MUC it will finish much nicer and break through the oxidation about the same way.
 
CrownKote said:
Yeah I am kinda at the point of not using KAIO I may order some MPF (I have M105 and MUC) and some 95 and play around a bit...

As far as pads I have the CCS Orange, White, and Red for the Flex PE14 2 (a few of each) and I have the DAMF system and CG Hex Logic pads (LOVE THESE!!!) for the DA...
Click to expand...
It really depends on how long you want to play around, and how in depth you want to get. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but I find it very hard to believe that you will get a car LSP ready by using #95 and a yellow pad. That said, I would use a medium polishing pad (Orange) with either UC or MPF. The UC will probably let you get around the car more uickly since it doesn't have to break down the way MPF does. Thats not to say that MPF will take forever, but I can see it making the job slightly longer than if you used UC.

BTW I love the Hex pads too, but don't tell anyone here....:o

Garry Dean said:
IMO MPF is the better choice over MUC it will finish much nicer and break through the oxidation about the same way.
Click to expand...

When used properly MUC can finish just as close to LSP ready as MPF, and doesn't need to be worked as long.

Only used MUC on an orange pad. Thats about as LSP ready as you can get.
DSC_0058.jpg


DSC_0062.jpg
 
I think I will try a few different things... I want to make the car look as good as possible quickly because this guy owns a some other cars I want to get into my shop... he also knows a lot of high dollar racers that I want to get as clients... And to top it all of he has a set of wheels I would love for my Z3 that he may be willing to trade work for!
 
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