Beater rolled with Rustoleum questions

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Pulpit

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So if you had a customer who had rolled his S-10 pick up with rustoleum and a dense foam roller and wanted you to sand it and seal it what process would you take? He taped it all off and did a decent job for $100.00.

He wants it to look decent from 5-10 feet. It was peeling and had begun to surface rust so he stripped it completely and went this direction cheaply. Would you leave some orange peel, go all the way out to flat, or what?

What grit to start, to finish with, what compounds and sealant?

Thanks,
Pulpit
 
There should be plenty of paint on there, why wouldn't you go all the way to flat?
 
What if the 2000 won't get the peel off?

Thanks!
 
There have been threads about this before (not sure if they were here), and people have gotten very good results. Flash is joking around, start with whatever grit you need to get it flat, then step it down, then compound and polish.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
There have been threads about this before (not sure if they were here), and people have gotten very good results. Flash is joking around, start with whatever grit you need to get it flat, then step it down, then compound and polish.
Click to expand...


:iagree: (except the part about this being the best thread ever)

If you sand to far, just roll on another layer of rustoleum :)
 
:Picture: would help me determine your next move :coolgleam:


Are you a preacher?
 
True! Of course this is my old 1992 S-10. I did all the prep and painting, as if that was not obvious. Truck is worth probably $1500-$2000 and I wanted to see if I could save it from rusting and get decent results for $100.

I am in the sanding process, and it is working well. I am ready for this "project" to be over!!!

I have the Meguiars compounds, will they work once it is all flat?
 
Yes, I am a preacher. I pastor a Baptist church here in Cumming, GA. I also teach elementary school PE here in Cumming.

Thanks for the advice and help. I have some redneck in me...some folks laugh at it all, but the cheap-o shops were quoting what the truck is worth to prep and paint it. It is my beater truck so I thought, what would it hurt!
 
Pulpit said:
True! Of course this is my old 1992 S-10. I did all the prep and painting, as if that was not obvious. Truck is worth probably $1500-$2000 and I wanted to see if I could save it from rusting and get decent results for $100.

I am in the sanding process, and it is working well. I am ready for this "project" to be over!!!

I have the Meguiars compounds, will they work once it is all flat?
Click to expand...

Its really hard to say. I think your floating around in unchartered waters

I'll definitly be intrested to see how it turns out
 
Pulpit said:
Yes, I am a preacher. I pastor a Baptist church here in Cumming, GA. I also teach elementary school PE here in Cumming.

Thanks for the advice and help. I have some redneck in me...some folks laugh at it all, but the cheap-o shops were quoting what the truck is worth to prep and paint it. It is my beater truck so I thought, what would it hurt!
Click to expand...

Good for you! I'm a Southern Baptist redneck too!

If you were anywhere near me, I would be happy to lend you a hand on this project :props:
 
Thanks! I have been at this church 10+ years, they asked me to come be their pastor when I was 23. They are a great group of Jesus loving folks. They have been so kind to my family and I, not a huge church, but God is blessing. My wife and I went there when we were just married and now have 4 kids!

Photobucket best way to upload pictures on this site?

Currently at 800 grit and going to 1200 next....then probably 1500-2000 then 105 and 205 Meguiars....then a good sealer wax.

My Porter Cable is waiting on me to finish sanding!
 
Pulpit said:
Thanks! I have been at this church 10+ years, they asked me to come be their pastor when I was 23. They are a great group of Jesus loving folks. They have been so kind to my family and I, not a huge church, but God is blessing. My wife and I went there when we were just married and now have 4 kids!

Photobucket best way to upload pictures on this site?

Currently at 800 grit and going to 1200 next....then probably 1500-2000 then 105 and 205 Meguiars....then a good sealer wax.

My Porter Cable is waiting on me to finish sanding!
Click to expand...


Sounds Great!

Yes. Photobucket is how alot of ppl host their pictures :Picture:

If I were you, I would do a test fender before going through the whole process


Have you ever heard of Charles Stanley?
 
I'm interested to see how this turns out. Been thinking about buying a winter beater and if yours turns out half decent it might be an option.
 
I've done this before and my best advice is to FIRST give the paint plenty of time to completely dry and harden.

There's dry to the touch and dry to the bone.... you want that paint dry to the bone as in the entire thickness or matrix of paint to be completely dry.

Unless there's a hurry, I would wait a few weeks and if possible, park the car in the sun during the day so the paint heats up.

Besides that, if you have a DA Polisher get everything you need to dampsand the paint. If you want to be careful start with the #1500 Foam backed finishing discs. If you are confident there's lots of paint then start with the #1500 Sanding discs, no foam backing on the disc.

I would still use an interface pad because it helps the sanding disc to flex over body panel curves, otherwise you're sanding with a 100% flat surface, that is hard flat surface on the backing plate and thin piece of sanding disc.

After you cut it with #1500, (either one), then re-sand using the #3000 Foam Backed Finishing Discs.

Then cut with a good compound and a wool pad, then switch to a foam pad and re-buff each square inch, and then finish out with a DA Polisher.

I cover the entire process here,

Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips



That paint is soft even after it's completely dry and set-up so buffing out sanding marks will be a breeze...

You can also hand sand it which is cheaper but more labor intense and time consuming. Matt and I dampsanded a 1956 Chevy from start to finish in about an hour.

Dampsanded
56ChevyBelairDampSand008.jpg



After Buffing
56ChevyBelairDampSand023.jpg



Try to work in a garage out of the sun... black paint gets hot and the heat will make the paint softer than if it were in the shade...


Take good before pictures as you can never go back in time and get them after you've sanded and buffed the paint...

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots


Be sure you have a spur for your wool pad... you're going to need it...


:D
 
Pulpit said:
Photobucket best way to upload pictures on this site?
Click to expand...

I'm not a fan of Photobucket or Flickr or any place like that because too many people only have a FREE account and when they use up all the free space they simply delete old pictures to make room for new pictures and this leaves red x's or missing pictures all over the Internet.


Like this,

REDX1.jpg


Or this,

PhotobucketMissingPIctureGraphic.jpg



Here's my second article on this topic... the first one is on MOL from about 2006... been there done that too many time...

Photobucket and Missing Pictures


I upload and post more pictures than anyone I know... I don't think it's that hard but then I've been doing it a long time.

If you're going to be a "Forum Person" on ANY forum, help yourself by learning how to work with picture on the Internet



It's just not that hard...


:Picture:
 
Thanks for all the tips, it has been a few weeks so I believe it to be hard, but I am not an expert...obviously-I painted a truck with a roller.

I will be taking some more photos and get them up hopefully tomorrow if possible from before, during, to where it is now.


I will most likely hand sand as I am a cheapskate on this project. I have my shop that I am doing all the work in.

Flash, yes, I know who Charles Stanley is. He pastors 1st Baptist Atlanta, why?
 
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