Before & After - 1961 Plymouth Fury Barn Find

Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Messages
51,004
Reaction score
6
Before & After - 1961 Plymouth Fury Barn Find



My good friend Jim Serra bought himself a Christmas present for himself from his wife. The funny part is he hasn't told his wife! Before she sees it in its current dirty and neglected condition I'm going to shine it up for him and then put a pretty Christmas ribbon and bow on it for the reveal.

This car is all original and a fresh barn find out of Minnesota. It has 56,545 miles on it. It's just now broken in!

1961_Plymouth_Fury_039.jpg




Here she is right off the car hauler from Minnesota!

The dealership told Jim that normally they wash the cars and have them detailed before they put them up for sale but for this car they just left her alone. (Good thing for Jim)

1961_Plymouth_Fury_021.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_022.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_023.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_024.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_025.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_026.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_027.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_028.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_029.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_030.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_031.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_032.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_033.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_034.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_035.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_036.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_037.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_038.jpg




:)
 
Continued...



Just a pre-warning
It's not recommended to use Iron X without rinsing the residue off. So for best results, always fallow the manufacturer's directions.

That said, I used a modified technique of using a HEAVY saturation of Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Wash to wash off the residue as I worked around the car. I also used the Tornado Air Blowout Gun WITH a heavy saturation of Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Wash around any trim or emblems to flush the component with waterless wash and then blast out the residue.


Process

Step 1 - Chemically decontaminate the car
I used a modified technique for Iron X because I wanted to make sure any iron contamination is removed. I sprayed down the body panels with Iron X starting with horizontal panels first and then after they were rinsed clean I moved onto the vertical panels only tackling one side at a time.


Step 2 - Wash car using DP Waterless Auto Wash
For this I used a super heavy saturation with LOTS of clean microfiber towels to liquefy the Iron X and wipe it plus any and all dirt off the body panels.


Step 3 - Mechanically decontaminate the paint
For this we used the Porter Cable 7424XP with Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads (Medium Grade) and Detailer's Pro Series Universal Clay Lube


Step 4 - Compound paint using SONAX CUTMAX
For this step we used the SONAX CUTMAX with the Flex 3401 on Speed 6 with 6.5" Lake Country Hybrid Orange Cutting Pads.


Step 5 - Machine polish and wax using SONAX PAINT CLEANER HYBRID NPT
Next we used the SONAX PAINT CLEANER which is not technically a dedicated paint cleaner but a hi-tech cleaner/sealant.

A cleaner/sealant is like a cleaner/wax in that it will clean, polish and protect in one step only instead of using some type of natural wax ingredient for protection it uses some type of synthetic ingredients for protection.

Rob McCrary at SONAX USA told me that the SONAX PAINT CLEANER had the cutting ability of SONAX Profiline Nano Polish. So this should remove any haze left by the aggressive compounding step while leaving the paint clear, glossy, rich in color and also protected.


For the exterior glass, chrome and stainless steel trim I simply ran over these surfaces using the orange Hybrid cutting pad with the SONAX CUTMAX.

Hubcaps and tires were wiped clean using an all purpose cleaner.


Now on to the pictures...


:)
 
Continued...

Steps 1 & 2 were done at the same time as I worked around the various body panels on the car.


Step 1 - Chemically decontaminate the car
I used a modified technique for Iron X because I wanted to make sure any iron contamination is removed. I sprayed down the body panels with Iron X starting with horizontal panels first and then after they were rinsed clean I moved onto the vertical panels only tackling one side at a time.


Step 2 - Wash car using DP Waterless Auto Wash
For this I used a super heavy saturation with LOTS of clean microfiber towels to liquefy the Iron X and wipe it plus any and all dirt off the body panels.


1961_Plymouth_Fury_042.jpg



This is me saturating the roof with a very wet coat of DP Waterless Wash. This is taking the place of a normal water hose flush. This car does not have working brakes so I can't easily move it in and out of the garage.

I still wanted to chemically decontaminate the paint however so I used this modified technique of using lots of waterless wash to flush the surface and then immediately wipe the residues off the car. And "yes" this technique worked for me. Follow my process at your own judgment.

1961_Plymouth_Fury_043.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_044.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_045.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_046.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_047.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_048.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_049.jpg




Using the Tornador Blowout Gun to blow-out iron remover and waterless wash

1961_Plymouth_Fury_050.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_051.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_052.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_053.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_054.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_055.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_056.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_057.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_058.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_059.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_060.jpg




Clean as a whistle!

1961_Plymouth_Fury_061.jpg



Then simply move around the car tackling the vertical panels one at a time.

1961_Plymouth_Fury_062.jpg




:)
 
Continued...

Step 3 - Mechanically decontaminate the paint
For this we used the Porter Cable 7424XP with Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads (Medium Grade) and Detailer's Pro Series Universal Clay Lube


1961_Plymouth_Fury_063.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_064.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_065.jpg





Step 4 - Compound paint using SONAX CUTMAX
For this step we used the SONAX CUTMAX with the Flex 3401 on Speed 6 with 6.5" Lake Country Hybrid Orange Cutting Pads.


Step 5 - Machine polish and wax using SONAX PAINT CLEANER HYBRID NPT
Next we used the SONAX PAINT CLEANER which is not technically a dedicated paint cleaner but a hi-tech cleaner/sealant.


The above are the only pictures taken of us working on the car. I took the above pictures of Jim the owner working the Porter Cable. The plan was to have anyone walking through the Show Car Garage to take some pictures but everyone is working so fast and furious in the warehouse with the Christmas rush that no one came out to the garage. So you just have to accept that we did what I said we did.


:)
 
Continued...


Finished!

Here's the after shots or what I like to call the beauty shots! Near as we can tell this is the original factory paint.


1961_Plymouth_Fury_066.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_067.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_068.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_069.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_070.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_071.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_072.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_073.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_074.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_075.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_076.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_077.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_078.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_079.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_080.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_081.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_082.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_083.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_084.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_085.jpg



Looks like a new car!
In fact, everyone that looks at and comments on this car says she looks brand new.


:)
 
Couple of comments...


The CUTMAX cuts without dusting. Seems to cut fast and smooth.

The Paint Cleaner also buffs very smooth and wipes off super easy and I think the pictures above scream loud and clear about the gloss and shine.

The Flex 3401 is BEAST. That's actually how I sign my book, "How to use the Flex 3401 for Production and Show Car Detailing".

With the Flex 3401 I was able to power through the compound step grinding off decades of aged paint. There was actually a uniform dirt stain over the entire car, paint, glass and metal trim so I compounded everything and this changed the color of the blue and white paint to make it vibrant again and it also restored clarity to the glass as well as brilliance to the chrome and stainless steel trim.

The Hybrid pads are a match made in heaven for the Flex 3401 so if you have a Flex and want the best pads then get Lake Country Hybrid pads.

The DP Waterless Autowash is my go-to waterless wash for cleaning up muscle cars, classics and antiques because as a practice and a professional courtesy to the owner, I NEVER introduce running water to these types of cars.

The DP Universal Clay Lube works with any form of mechanical decontamination.

The Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on a Porter Cable 7424XP obliterate any type of above surface bonded contaminants to leave a clean, smooth surface perfect for compounding.



Products used

1961_Plymouth_Fury_086.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_087.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_088.jpg


1961_Plymouth_Fury_089.jpg





On Autogeek.com


SONAX CUTMAX Cutting Compound

SONAX PAINT CLEANER

DP Waterless Auto Wash

DP Universal Clay Lube

Iron X - Iron Remover

Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads - Medium Grade

Lake Country 6.5" Hybrid Pads

Flex 3401 Gear Driven Orbital Polisher




:)
 
The car with the SQUARE steering wheel


One thing that is really unique about this car is that it has a squarish or rectangular shaped steering wheel.

Check it out...

Wild!

1961_Plymouth_Fury_091.jpg




1961 Plymouth Fury!

1961_Plymouth_Fury_090.jpg




:xyxthumbs:
 
Looks great! As always, great job Mike! Bet it was a really fun project with all the quirky challenges!
 
Good looking ride, I should have hung around another week to see this. I don't think Jim will end up in the dog house over this purchase.
 
Came out great. What was the protection of choice?
 
Excellent work Mike, the Fury looks awesome! I also learned a new technique for using Iron X on classic cars. Thanks for sharing! :dblthumb2:
 
Great job Mike.

We all get wrapped up wanting every tool and product under the sun. It's pretty clear from this write-up that very professional results can be attained with a limited number of well selected tools and products.
 
Fantastic work Mike. So first you sprayed the Iron-X on and then rinsed it off with the DP RW. You must have used a lot of DP To get all that Iron-X off. It seems like you have to hose the car off to get that smell off.
 
Excellent work as usual Mike! The car looks like new.
 
Looks great! As always, great job Mike! Bet it was a really fun project with all the quirky challenges!

It's always fun working on classic Detroit Iron. Espeically when it's the ORIGINAL paint.



Good looking ride, I should have hung around another week to see this. I don't think Jim will end up in the dog house over this purchase.

I think his wife is going to give him the wink and nod of "okay". :D



Outstanding work Mike!

Jim helped. I was reall glad he came down to help to. I did a HARD and fast compounding step pushing on the Flex 3401 hard and fast and ran her at th 6.0 speed setting for the entire buff. I know some like to go slower and that's okay but what I always say is,

Sometimes speed is your friend

Jim followed me with another Flex 3401 with a polishing pad and polised and waxed at the same time using the SONAX Paint Cleaner which is a cleaner/wax or cleaner/sealant.

From start to finish we machine polished this car including all the paint, all of the outside glass and all of the chrome and stainless steel trim and including the front and rear bumpers in....

3 hours



Came out great. What was the protection of choice?

The SONAX Paint Cleaner is actually a cleaner/wax or more technically it's a cleaner/sealant. It polishes and seals at the same time.




Excellent work Mike, the Fury looks awesome! I also learned a new technique for using Iron X on classic cars. Thanks for sharing! :dblthumb2:


BE VERY CAREFUL!

Single stage paint is porous and it will stain if you're not FAST and careful.



Nice job making the old girl shine again!

As the saying goes... the pictures don't do her justice...

She looks better in person...



Nice work - as if it was a surprise!


I've buffed out a few cars in the past... :D



Amazing!!

No paint polishes out like classic single stage.



Great job Mike.

We all get wrapped up wanting every tool and product under the sun. It's pretty clear from this write-up that very professional results can be attained with a limited number of well selected tools and products.

Exactly and only a few steps. But keep in mind... single stage paint is very fogiving.



Fantastic work Mike. So first you sprayed the Iron-X on and then rinsed it off with the DP RW.

DP WW not DP RW

For those that don't knoow detailing acronymes I'll translate.

DP RW = Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash

DP WW = Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Wash

I prefer to use waterless washes over rinseless washes in part because I'm lazy and don't like to mop the water off the floor in an outline around the car when I'm done. With a waterless wash I just spray a lot of waterless wash onto the car and then wipe it off and very little ends up on the floor.



You must have used a lot of DP To get all that Iron-X off. It seems like you have to hose the car off to get that smell off.

I went through an entire bottle so 32 ounces and I was very liberal with the product. It's the only time "I'm" liberal. :D


Thanks for all the comments, feedback and questions guys.... the owner Jim while not a member of the forum does read this forum and I shared this thread with him and at least a dozen other guys at the Tuesday night Lew's Crew Car Show.


:dblthumb2:
 
Back
Top