(Beginner) Any Tips on cleaning these Alloy Wheels ?

[Widget]

Hey guys,

1st time cleaning wheels and am having trouble getting the remaining 'black substance' off the backside/inside of the wheel section.

They're off a 2004 HONDA CRV. The inside.. I don't think is clear coated.. at least it doesn't feel like it. There's a groove type pattern going around, so I think it may just be machined alloy??
The outside of the wheel, however, does appear to be coated and not as bad.
After hitting them with Wheely Clean (similar to Iron-X), they were quite spotted (see in pic). As the wheel appeared quite bad, I used some oven cleaner.. which helped a fair bit. I then decided to use a 50/50 mix of Hydrochloric Acid, which certainly helped.. but behind the spokes, remains black spots.. which I cant seem to remove, even with oven cleaner and/or 50/50 HCL... ideas ?
I'm hesitant to use a stronger mix of HCL, but has anyone used strong acids on alloy rims before?

Before Cleaning

~~ After using Bowdens' Own: Wheely Clean ~~

>> It cleaned minimal, leaving it spotted. Looks like its really backed on.

~~ Used some Oven Cleaner ~~

Alot better, but even with scrubbing, I couldn't remove the back behind the spokes.

~~ After Using a 50% mixture of Hydrochloric Acid/water ~~

As you can see.. a lot better, but still can't get it great.. ideas?

Thanks in advance

 

[Don M]

I think you've gone as far as you could/should. HCI even 50/50 is an EXTREME measure to take on anything, especially if you're new at this. With all the scrubbing and chemicals you've used, now the aluminum (alloy) rim's rear section is raw metal and even more susceptible to accumulated damage and build up.

What *I* would do is tape off the front of the rim(s) and paint the rear(s) with a hi-temp silver or black paint, which should both make cleaning easier the next time and prevent oxidation from forming.

Or you could leave it as-is and understand that you're likely not going to get them 100% and clean them more often since contaminates will stick to the raw metal faster and stronger than a painted or coated surface.

Then again, there is always chrome plating the whole rim ($$$$).

 

[VR8]

Did you try scrubbing with #0000 steel wool? It won't hurt the interior of the wheel.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Magic Eraser w/diluted APC as lube gets rid of that and does it easy.

 

[Widget]

Did you try scrubbing with #0000 steel wool? It won't hurt the interior of the wheel.

I haven't. I thought about it though but wasn't sure how the alloy would handle the wool. I'll pick some up tomorrow and give it a shot, thanks

Magic Eraser w/diluted APC as lube gets rid of that and does it easy.

I have some "Melamine" sponges here, never used them though. Ill have to give them a try, see how they go.

Just curious, what is the black stuff exactly ? just built up/baked on brake dust or something else ?

 

[bbattle]

If you are going to use acid on aluminum, stick to citric or phosphoric acid and be sure to rinse, rinse, rinse! Then you'll need to seal the surface to keep it looking nice.

I also recommend just using steel wool with a mild cleaner.

Never use a caustic cleaner on aluminum. (lye, sodium hydroxide)

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Just curious, what is the black stuff exactly ? just built up/baked on brake dust or something else ?

Well...yeah. Remember that the brake dust that comes off is part brake pad, which is made of some combination of organic materials, ceramic materials, and metal, depending, and wear particles from your rotor, which is iron.

What you have left on the wheel is some combination of those materials, other road dirt, and corrosion by-products of the above contaminants, water, salt, etc. The surface of the aluminum has been roughened by corrosion pitting.

I haven't. I thought about it though but wasn't sure how the alloy would handle the wool. I'll pick some up tomorrow and give it a shot, thanks

By using steel wool, you are likely to leave behind steel particles embedded in the aluminum, which in conjunction with water, and particularly with salt, will form a corrosive combination. Even if you polish the inside of that wheel to a mirror finish, the combination of brake dust, rotor particles, aluminum, and an electrolyte (water) will quickly return the surface to a non-Autogeekian appearance. I gave up doing much to the unprotected insides of my wheels until I got them powdercoated. It was like shoveling sand against the tide.

 

[Widget]

If you are going to use acid on aluminum, stick to citric or phosphoric acid and be sure to rinse, rinse, rinse! Then you'll need to seal the surface to keep it looking nice.

I also recommend just using steel wool with a mild cleaner.

Never use a caustic cleaner on aluminum. (lye, sodium hydroxide)

Thanks bbattle . What class would Hydrochloric Acid fall under?

Only reason I used it as it was a recommendation to use as an Acid based cleaner by a couple of details, same with the oven cleaner.

I had a look online but had trouble finding strong acid cleaners that could be used on wheels.

We have these products over here,

Chemtech: Blitz (seems to be Phosphoric Acid based)
Chemtech: Other Products - Blitz

Septone: Ali Brite (seems to be a combination of Hydrofluoric Acid and Sulfuric Acid)
Septone - Chemical Manufacturer, Automotive, Industrial, Hospitality, Transport, Mining, Marine, Hardware

Perhaps one of these cleaners would be a better option in future ?

By using steel wool, you are likely to leave behind steel particles embedded in the aluminum, which in conjunction with water, and particularly with salt, will form a corrosive combination. Even if you polish the inside of that wheel to a mirror finish, the combination of brake dust, rotor particles, aluminum, and an electrolyte (water) will quickly return the surface to a non-Autogeekian appearance. I gave up doing much to the unprotected insides of my wheels until I got them powdercoated. It was like shoveling sand against the tide.

Thanks Setec . I'm not familiar with these types of wheels, but they don't appear to be clear coated on the inside.. but maybe they had some sort of sealant from the factory to prevent oxidation??

As I'm planning on selling the car, I don't think I'll worry about powder-coating or painting the insides, the outsides seem ok (- some curb scratches)... but if I were to put some sealer just for a little protection... am I wasting my time?

if not, suggestions? or just wipe some wax on the inside?

With the steel wool option.. say I used it to clean up the wheels, or any alloy wheels.. would using Wheely Clean/iron-x, or other, afterwards remove the left over particles before sealing ??


Thanks again, appreciated the feedback

 

[Setec Astronomy]

They have nothing (paint, etc.) on the backs, that's why they are pitted that way. It depends on the mfr/model, but I've seen high end cars like this with nothing, and low end cars that are painted. IMO it will be a waste of time to "wax" that pitted aluminum, you won't even be able to wipe the residue off properly. Now, if you sand and polish, sure you will ultimately wind up with a pretty smooth surface...but who cares? If you are selling the car...do you think the prospective buyer will be looking at the back of the spokes?

 

[Eldorado2k]

Did you try the melamine sponge?

 

[Widget]

Did you try the melamine sponge?

Hey Eldorado, nah i didn't, completely forgot. When I get a chance, I'll do a test spot, see how it goes