Velocitybts
New member
- Apr 11, 2013
- 178
- 0
This car was a pleasure, I drive 200 mile to pick it up and returned home after a wonderful drive. Plenty of people in other cars were taking pictures and gassing up got a few questions. I did enjoy it for the driving pleasure. What a great car. It produces grins 
When I got the car the paint was in this condition. There were light to medium swirls, scratches and marring over the whole vehicle. Typical dealer detail and wash type of scratches. Just beware, the vehicle was serviced by Bentley right before I got it, and they washed it and induced plenty of swirls then too. Here are the pictures of what the vehicle looked like.
Normally, I would go over the car and explain what the customer should expect when done, what scratches won't come out, what needs replacing, tire condition, brake pad condition (i am in there anyway) any dents dings rock chips that need work, and most of all what areas I am not going to try to work due to possible damage, over my capabilities or pointless due to condition. I have a sheet I use to do this so nothing unexpected arises. Biggest thing when dealing with a detailer is not everything will come out, and they should know when to say when before damage happens. They should treat the vehicle as good as the owner does or as in my case typically much better than they do.
40 total Hours involved------
Tools Used:
Flex 3401 Dual Action (DA) Polisher w/ 4" backing plate
Griots Garage 3" DA
Dewalt Rotary Polisher 3" backing plate w/ extension
Master Blaster Air blower
Floor Jack
Torque Wrench
Oil Change Ramps
Pads Used:
Lake Country Hybrid 5" Orange Cutting, White Polishing, Black no cut
Lake Country Hydro Tech 3" Cyan cutting, White Polishing
Foam applicator pads
Compounds & Polishes:
Menzerna FG400
Menzerna SF4000
Rupes Diamond
Glass Coatings:
22ple Pro Vx1 Glass Coating
22ple Metal and Rim Coating
Misc Tools & Chemicals:
Nanoskin Clay Pad 6"
Wheel Woolies Large and Small
Microfiber Wheel Wash Mitt
P21S Auto wash (removes all chemicals and oils)
Chemical Guys Honeydew Wash Soap
2x Sheepskin wool wash mitts
Bunch of MFT's
Twin 500w Halogens
Swirl Finder Handheld Light
Blue Magic Metal Polish
Megrim's All Purpose Cleaner (APC)
GTechniq Panel Wipe
I washed the vehicle with the Honeydew soap and the wool wash mitt. I used two buckets, one with a grate in the bottom to wash the mitt on to clean it between panels. Second bucket was used to rinse mitt after touching a panel. Worked from top to bottom and cleaned the mitt off between panels to no cross contaminate the paint. Imagine dragging a spec sand across numerous panels, ouch but that is exactly what typical people do when washing and drying. I cleaned each wheel using a different mitt and wash bucket and used the wheel woolies to clean the barrel of each rim. I ran the car up on ramps to get under the front and rear areas really well. I then used the Nanoskin Clay pad with the car wash soap for lubricant, to clay the car and remove the surface contaminants that wouldn't get done with the compounding. This drastically smoothed out the paint. I then dried the vehicle with the MB dryer to keep from scratching further.
I took off each wheel and cleaned the wheel well and suspension areas with Meguire's APC. I re-did each wheel and especially the barrels of them. I used the Master Blaster to completely dry the wheel (one at a time) and then coated the chrome wheels and barrels with the 22PLE Metal and Rim Glass coating. This is an easy process, dab onto a foam applicator pad, wipe on thoroughly and wait 3-4 min. Then remove coating with a MFT and then re-wipe with a clean MFT. Each wheel was done and wheel well. (took 1.2 hrs per wheel area)(always throw aways applicator pad and MFT's after using them, they will harden like glass and will scratch the paint if dried)
Removing of Swirls (Compounding Stage:
I started off doing a test area, which should be lower rear passenger side. If something happened where damage was involved, the owner normally doesn't see that area often, so the few days it may take to repair won't bother them (as much). Never happened, but always aware.
The Flex 3401 with the Hybrid Orange cutting pad and the FG400 worked like a charm. I used setting 5.5 to 6. I went over the vehicle starting at the rear quarters and then the roof, trunk, hood, front quarters, then the doors and finally the bumpers and rockers. I then went over the car and marked (finger with FG400) all marks or scratches that I wanted to put extra work into. A few tight areas, especially on the bumpers I used the Rotary polisher with a cyan pad 3" to quickly work them out. I got about 50% of those leftover marks out.
Polishing--
When I have time I like to do a two stage polish. First I use a Hybrid White light cutting polishing pad with Menzerna SF4000 which for most people, non OCD, is perfectly fine to be done there. I do this on a setting of 4 on the Flex. However, I take it one step further and use a no cut Black Hybrid pad with the Rupes Diamond micro fine polish and put no down pressure on the Flex and run it on the 3.4 setting for 5 passes and the last two I actually lift it slightly so the pad is Jeweling the paint. I did go over the paint several times with the swirl finder light and found a few areas to go over again.
The GG 3" was used for small intricate areas after using the Rotary there and typically those areas only need a one step polish due to not being really visible.
Interior:
The inside was thoroughly coated with Leather conditioner (Chemical Guys Leather Conditioner) Each panel, roof, doors and dash were wiped down before applying LC. The Leather was almost new to begin with, so the two front seats were coated liberally, then allowed to soak in. A second application was done, then buffed off. I would have used a regiment of Letherique products if needed, but the leather was in such good condition, I saved the time and mess to just apply the CG LC.
Piano Black wood trim:
Each panel was polished with a Pink Light cutting pad using the GG 3" and Menzerna SF4000 polish. Most scratches were removed, but some difficult ones remained but the finish was highly polished. Intricate areas around front console were done by hand. All surfaced were wiped down the GTechniq (GT) Panel wipe then coated with the 22ple Metal and Rim Glass Coatings. This helps protect them from future stains and scratches. Glass was cleaned.
Door Sills:
Each door sill was polished using Menzerna SF4000 and the GG 3" using a white light cutting pad. The panels were wiped down with GT Panel wipe and Glass Coated with the 22ple Pro VX1. The Aluminum "Bentley" sills were cleaned and then Blue Magix metal polish was used to remove some scratches and stains. then glass coated also after wipe down.
Tail Pipes:
Each tail pipe was cleaned with Blue Magic Metal Polish then after wiping down, the 22ple Metal and Rim coating was applied and polish to an extreme shine.
Engine Bay:
The engine area was washed by a horsehair brush using Honeydew wash soap. Then lightly rinsed down with spray of water. After blowing off the area and letting it dry, I wiped down the black trim and engine covers with Opti-Clear sealant. This helps it remain black for a long time without being sticky and attracting dust.
Vehicle was finished and I re-inspected it for any scratches that I felt could be taken out, then rewashed using a second wool wash mitt (not to contaminate the original one) using the p21s wash. This removes any oils and chemicals on the paint and provides a fresh surface to apply coatings too.
Coatings:
Modest P-01a primer was applied with GG 3" black non cutting pad like a thin sealant would. Waited 20min for it to chemically adhere with the paint and removed with a MFT. This process needs to cure for 3hrs before applying the Glass coating. The primer that is used for Modesta's coatings have the same chemical properties as the 22ple, so I use it for a base coating also.
22ple glass coating was applied to two panels at a time using a foam applicator pad. Allowed to dry for 4 min then wiped clean with the first MFT. A Second MFT was used to remove any left over residue and polish it to a high shine. This was done to every panel and bumpers and mirrors.
The Glass Coatings take 8-12 hours to cure before introducing the covered parts to any type of environmental elements. So keep it in a garage. After that time the car can be driven or washed. The coating continue to cure for 4-5 days more increasing slightly in the shine. They are hydrophobic in nature and last from 1 to 1.5 years without having to apply any sealants. The coating can be topped with a carnauba to increase the shine if desired. I actually applied a special Polish Angel Carnuba to this one, just to even slightly increase the shine.
This is the finished product. I have a professional painter who does my rock chip filling and had him go around the vehicle and fill them in. I hope this helps some members out with doing some of this themselves. This is how our cars should look like or can look like. Pictures in lighted garages, or under lights at night look awesome, however, most cars can look that way and it truly doesn't show the paint quality. Only pictures that matter are ones taken in the sun showing how clear the paint is. They are the prettiest or coolest photos, but show the quality of work done. Here it is, then put back into its home))))
When I got the car the paint was in this condition. There were light to medium swirls, scratches and marring over the whole vehicle. Typical dealer detail and wash type of scratches. Just beware, the vehicle was serviced by Bentley right before I got it, and they washed it and induced plenty of swirls then too. Here are the pictures of what the vehicle looked like.
Normally, I would go over the car and explain what the customer should expect when done, what scratches won't come out, what needs replacing, tire condition, brake pad condition (i am in there anyway) any dents dings rock chips that need work, and most of all what areas I am not going to try to work due to possible damage, over my capabilities or pointless due to condition. I have a sheet I use to do this so nothing unexpected arises. Biggest thing when dealing with a detailer is not everything will come out, and they should know when to say when before damage happens. They should treat the vehicle as good as the owner does or as in my case typically much better than they do.
40 total Hours involved------
Tools Used:
Flex 3401 Dual Action (DA) Polisher w/ 4" backing plate
Griots Garage 3" DA
Dewalt Rotary Polisher 3" backing plate w/ extension
Master Blaster Air blower
Floor Jack
Torque Wrench
Oil Change Ramps
Pads Used:
Lake Country Hybrid 5" Orange Cutting, White Polishing, Black no cut
Lake Country Hydro Tech 3" Cyan cutting, White Polishing
Foam applicator pads
Compounds & Polishes:
Menzerna FG400
Menzerna SF4000
Rupes Diamond
Glass Coatings:
22ple Pro Vx1 Glass Coating
22ple Metal and Rim Coating
Misc Tools & Chemicals:
Nanoskin Clay Pad 6"
Wheel Woolies Large and Small
Microfiber Wheel Wash Mitt
P21S Auto wash (removes all chemicals and oils)
Chemical Guys Honeydew Wash Soap
2x Sheepskin wool wash mitts
Bunch of MFT's
Twin 500w Halogens
Swirl Finder Handheld Light
Blue Magic Metal Polish
Megrim's All Purpose Cleaner (APC)
GTechniq Panel Wipe
I washed the vehicle with the Honeydew soap and the wool wash mitt. I used two buckets, one with a grate in the bottom to wash the mitt on to clean it between panels. Second bucket was used to rinse mitt after touching a panel. Worked from top to bottom and cleaned the mitt off between panels to no cross contaminate the paint. Imagine dragging a spec sand across numerous panels, ouch but that is exactly what typical people do when washing and drying. I cleaned each wheel using a different mitt and wash bucket and used the wheel woolies to clean the barrel of each rim. I ran the car up on ramps to get under the front and rear areas really well. I then used the Nanoskin Clay pad with the car wash soap for lubricant, to clay the car and remove the surface contaminants that wouldn't get done with the compounding. This drastically smoothed out the paint. I then dried the vehicle with the MB dryer to keep from scratching further.
I took off each wheel and cleaned the wheel well and suspension areas with Meguire's APC. I re-did each wheel and especially the barrels of them. I used the Master Blaster to completely dry the wheel (one at a time) and then coated the chrome wheels and barrels with the 22PLE Metal and Rim Glass coating. This is an easy process, dab onto a foam applicator pad, wipe on thoroughly and wait 3-4 min. Then remove coating with a MFT and then re-wipe with a clean MFT. Each wheel was done and wheel well. (took 1.2 hrs per wheel area)(always throw aways applicator pad and MFT's after using them, they will harden like glass and will scratch the paint if dried)
Removing of Swirls (Compounding Stage:
I started off doing a test area, which should be lower rear passenger side. If something happened where damage was involved, the owner normally doesn't see that area often, so the few days it may take to repair won't bother them (as much). Never happened, but always aware.
The Flex 3401 with the Hybrid Orange cutting pad and the FG400 worked like a charm. I used setting 5.5 to 6. I went over the vehicle starting at the rear quarters and then the roof, trunk, hood, front quarters, then the doors and finally the bumpers and rockers. I then went over the car and marked (finger with FG400) all marks or scratches that I wanted to put extra work into. A few tight areas, especially on the bumpers I used the Rotary polisher with a cyan pad 3" to quickly work them out. I got about 50% of those leftover marks out.
Polishing--
When I have time I like to do a two stage polish. First I use a Hybrid White light cutting polishing pad with Menzerna SF4000 which for most people, non OCD, is perfectly fine to be done there. I do this on a setting of 4 on the Flex. However, I take it one step further and use a no cut Black Hybrid pad with the Rupes Diamond micro fine polish and put no down pressure on the Flex and run it on the 3.4 setting for 5 passes and the last two I actually lift it slightly so the pad is Jeweling the paint. I did go over the paint several times with the swirl finder light and found a few areas to go over again.
The GG 3" was used for small intricate areas after using the Rotary there and typically those areas only need a one step polish due to not being really visible.
Interior:
The inside was thoroughly coated with Leather conditioner (Chemical Guys Leather Conditioner) Each panel, roof, doors and dash were wiped down before applying LC. The Leather was almost new to begin with, so the two front seats were coated liberally, then allowed to soak in. A second application was done, then buffed off. I would have used a regiment of Letherique products if needed, but the leather was in such good condition, I saved the time and mess to just apply the CG LC.
Piano Black wood trim:
Each panel was polished with a Pink Light cutting pad using the GG 3" and Menzerna SF4000 polish. Most scratches were removed, but some difficult ones remained but the finish was highly polished. Intricate areas around front console were done by hand. All surfaced were wiped down the GTechniq (GT) Panel wipe then coated with the 22ple Metal and Rim Glass Coatings. This helps protect them from future stains and scratches. Glass was cleaned.
Door Sills:
Each door sill was polished using Menzerna SF4000 and the GG 3" using a white light cutting pad. The panels were wiped down with GT Panel wipe and Glass Coated with the 22ple Pro VX1. The Aluminum "Bentley" sills were cleaned and then Blue Magix metal polish was used to remove some scratches and stains. then glass coated also after wipe down.
Tail Pipes:
Each tail pipe was cleaned with Blue Magic Metal Polish then after wiping down, the 22ple Metal and Rim coating was applied and polish to an extreme shine.
Engine Bay:
The engine area was washed by a horsehair brush using Honeydew wash soap. Then lightly rinsed down with spray of water. After blowing off the area and letting it dry, I wiped down the black trim and engine covers with Opti-Clear sealant. This helps it remain black for a long time without being sticky and attracting dust.
Vehicle was finished and I re-inspected it for any scratches that I felt could be taken out, then rewashed using a second wool wash mitt (not to contaminate the original one) using the p21s wash. This removes any oils and chemicals on the paint and provides a fresh surface to apply coatings too.
Coatings:
Modest P-01a primer was applied with GG 3" black non cutting pad like a thin sealant would. Waited 20min for it to chemically adhere with the paint and removed with a MFT. This process needs to cure for 3hrs before applying the Glass coating. The primer that is used for Modesta's coatings have the same chemical properties as the 22ple, so I use it for a base coating also.
22ple glass coating was applied to two panels at a time using a foam applicator pad. Allowed to dry for 4 min then wiped clean with the first MFT. A Second MFT was used to remove any left over residue and polish it to a high shine. This was done to every panel and bumpers and mirrors.
The Glass Coatings take 8-12 hours to cure before introducing the covered parts to any type of environmental elements. So keep it in a garage.
After that time the car can be driven or washed. The coating continue to cure for 4-5 days more increasing slightly in the shine. They are hydrophobic in nature and last from 1 to 1.5 years without having to apply any sealants. The coating can be topped with a carnauba to increase the shine if desired. I actually applied a special Polish Angel Carnuba to this one, just to even slightly increase the shine. This is the finished product. I have a professional painter who does my rock chip filling and had him go around the vehicle and fill them in. I hope this helps some members out with doing some of this themselves. This is how our cars should look like or can look like. Pictures in lighted garages, or under lights at night look awesome, however, most cars can look that way and it truly doesn't show the paint quality. Only pictures that matter are ones taken in the sun showing how clear the paint is. They are the prettiest or coolest photos, but show the quality of work done. Here it is, then put back into its home
))))
