Best Ceramic Coating Package?

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bryanviper

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Hello All,

I live in Toronto, Canada and have used Cquartz UK & Geyon Pure in the past. They both work good however they never seem to last through our winters with all the salt/grime (at least not the bottom half of my doors) also I daily the car and part it outside. So regardless of the winter issue that i don't think I can do much about I'm looking at these 3 consumer based ceramic coatings. One being GTechniq which I have never used but heard good things about. If your opinion which is best? Which will last the longest, Provide best gloss & Hydrophobic properties? They all seem to mention up to 2 years durability of course depending on environment & other factors.

Gyeon Q2 Syncro
GYEON Q2 Syncro

GTechniq Exo & Crystal Serum Light
GTechniq EXO and CSL Kit

Cquartz Uk 3.0
Cquartz UK Edition

Thanks for your comments
 
Your coating might simply be contaminated. Have you tried doing a chemical decontamination on it?

A coating, even the consumer products is a semi-permanent product. Unless you polish it off, it is still there.

If it is contaminated, it will prevent it from being hydrophobic, which is usually what makes people think it is gone... it is not a wax, so lack of hydrophobicity doesn't have the same meaning with a coating.

From what I have seen in the extensive reseach I have done over the last 3 years, Gtechniq's products offer the best quality of products. So if you decided to re-coat the car at some point, you can't go wrong with Crystal Serum Light. Putting EXO on top will make the car more hydrophobic, but the durability should be about the same for the base product.
 
I can’t say about durability since it’s been only 5 months that I put Syncro on my car. So far, it’s been awesome. Water behavior is insane. I just washed the car and each time I do it puts a smile on my face. It’s like water and my car have same polarity and repel each other.
 
Well just my opinion. I don't think you will find a coating that will give you that hydrophobic
water behavior your are looking for on the side lower panels. like calendyr said your coating may just be contaminated, doesnt mean it still isn't there. i have tried cquartz UK and now have serum and exo
on my rx 350. after 2 years the water beading on the hood is fantastic but the side panels not so good.
This is why i am on the fence with coatings. Just not happy after a few months it feels like the side panels need to be clayed and water behavior isnt the same as when i first applied it. always make me feel the same way, is my coating still there. lol
 
bryanviper said:
Hello All,

I live in Toronto, Canada and have used Cquartz UK & Geyon Pure in the past. They both work good however they never seem to last through our winters with all the salt/grime (at least not the bottom half of my doors) also I daily the car and part it outside. So regardless of the winter issue that i don't think I can do much about I'm looking at these 3 consumer based ceramic coatings. One being GTechniq which I have never used but heard good things about. If your opinion which is best? Which will last the longest, Provide best gloss & Hydrophobic properties? They all seem to mention up to 2 years durability of course depending on environment & other factors.
Click to expand...

Harsh conditions are going to beat up on coatings.

A majority of the gloss will come from polishing.

Give it a decon wash and see if the coating can be revived.

From the coatings you are looking at, I was the least impressed with Syncro. It’s performance over a year was underwhelming and lack luster. Not worth the money if you ask me.

Cquartz UK 3.0 is a better choice as is CSL topped with Exo. CQUK 3.0 has a better self cleaning effect between the two but not by much.
 
yes I have, did a full Decon a few times and it only improved slightly. I even tried non diluted degreaser to see if that would do anything. The sides are definitely gone or at least not beading up like they should be,

Thanks

Calendyr said:
Your coating might simply be contaminated. Have you tried doing a chemical decontamination on it?

A coating, even the consumer products is a semi-permanent product. Unless you polish it off, it is still there.

If it is contaminated, it will prevent it from being hydrophobic, which is usually what makes people think it is gone... it is not a wax, so lack of hydrophobicity doesn't have the same meaning with a coating.

From what I have seen in the extensive reseach I have done over the last 3 years, Gtechniq's products offer the best quality of products. So if you decided to re-coat the car at some point, you can't go wrong with Crystal Serum Light. Putting EXO on top will make the car more hydrophobic, but the durability should be about the same for the base product.
Click to expand...
 
Had you tried any other coating before Syncro?

BSoares said:
I can’t say about durability since it’s been only 5 months that I put Syncro on my car. So far, it’s been awesome. Water behavior is insane. I just washed the car and each time I do it puts a smile on my face. It’s like water and my car have same polarity and repel each other.
Click to expand...
 
Well I know when I apply a coating in the Spring/Summer the side doors are great, lots of hydrophobic properties & I would regularly add CarPro Reload. This would last for months during the spring/summer/fall.

Well in your case it sounds decent to me. The fact you are getting around 2 years which is what the coatings are generally rated for thats great. I'm lucky to get 1 year due to our winters.

asalesagent912 said:
Well just my opinion. I don't think you will find a coating that will give you that hydrophobic
water behavior your are looking for on the side lower panels. like calendyr said your coating may just be contaminated, doesnt mean it still isn't there. i have tried cquartz UK and now have serum and exo
on my rx 350. after 2 years the water beading on the hood is fantastic but the side panels not so good.
This is why i am on the fence with coatings. Just not happy after a few months it feels like the side panels need to be clayed and water behavior isnt the same as when i first applied it. always make me feel the same way, is my coating still there. lol
Click to expand...
 
How often do you top? If often( every couple of months) Have thought of trying a better topper? Maybe give overcoat, PA Viking or IGL premier a try. Not cheap but one big bottle of any should last you a couple of years


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Different chemicals desolves different kind of dirt and contaminants. Get a tar remover and you will have some of the water behavior back. Regualary wash with something like Carpro Reset car soap. I don't believe waterless wash or rinseless wash is enough cleaning ability in harsh winter weather environment. An alkaline based degreaser or citrus based degreaser or a dedicated prewash foam in combo with a tar remover and if necessary to do an iron remover too. If you have a lot of minerals in the water and or environment a water spot remover could be necessary too. It has come out some slightly acidic based car soap lately here in EU. Which helps a lot to revive the coatings when you use to touchless washes with water that has minerals in it. Coatings is very chemical resistant and only the extremly high alkaline products over ph12 and the extremly acidic based degreaser lower than ph3 is where you have to be carefull. Most solvents which most tar degreaser is based on is also coatings resist good. There are some solvents like some highly concentration of citrus oils and some hydrocarbon is aggressive on coatings. On the other hand most toppers use not only the coating chemicals and can be very effected of any degreasers. For an example Carpro Reloads use some oils in their formula and when useing TarX you desolve those so the gloss degrade then but the coating is not effected.

Just this weekend one posted an update on a Swedish forum about his CQUK the old formula. I got interested and asked some questions. He have topped with Reload and Merlins Elixir about every 2 months or so. And last Reload application was early december. The CQUK is 2 years old and still behaves on all surfaces around 70-80%. He was with Reset car soap only and use always a prewash foam that is slightly alkaline. If he needs and often during the winter months here in Sweden a tar remover. And he lives in a more harsher winter environment than me here in Sweden too. So even with degreasers used it holds up quite good I think. The thing is to not get the coating clogged to much before useing a chemical that desolves the reason why it's clogged. And that differs on the environment you live in and what products you uses too. I would go with a tar remover like TarX and see if you get the behavior back. If you have an iron remover test if you get any bleeding effect that will say if you have industrial fallout or iron particals on the paint. And mostly behind the front wheels and to the back of the car and half way up on the side panels you see most iron particals. If you have industrial fallout you have those mostly on the horisontall panels.
 
I was able to get two mild winters out of McKee's 37 v1 on a vehicle and I have another with CQuartz UK which was applied last April and seems to still be going strong despite a pretty rough winter.

The lower door and rear hatch areas do take a beating, but in the case of both coatings I found the water behavior returns after a few good hand washings with a quality car shampoo.
 
I have used Carpro Trix & CarPro Reload as it did slightly help it but not to much. Unfortunately I dont think we can compare environments just because it depends on the chemicals they use on the roads and in my case im going to assume the stuff they use here is a lot less environmentally safe then in the EU so it may be more aggressive here.

Either way I know I will need to recoat this spring like I always do after winter lol

SWETM said:
Different chemicals desolves different kind of dirt and contaminants. Get a tar remover and you will have some of the water behavior back. Regualary wash with something like Carpro Reset car soap. I don't believe waterless wash or rinseless wash is enough cleaning ability in harsh winter weather environment. An alkaline based degreaser or citrus based degreaser or a dedicated prewash foam in combo with a tar remover and if necessary to do an iron remover too. If you have a lot of minerals in the water and or environment a water spot remover could be necessary too. It has come out some slightly acidic based car soap lately here in EU. Which helps a lot to revive the coatings when you use to touchless washes with water that has minerals in it. Coatings is very chemical resistant and only the extremly high alkaline products over ph12 and the extremly acidic based degreaser lower than ph3 is where you have to be carefull. Most solvents which most tar degreaser is based on is also coatings resist good. There are some solvents like some highly concentration of citrus oils and some hydrocarbon is aggressive on coatings. On the other hand most toppers use not only the coating chemicals and can be very effected of any degreasers. For an example Carpro Reloads use some oils in their formula and when useing TarX you desolve those so the gloss degrade then but the coating is not effected.

Just this weekend one posted an update on a Swedish forum about his CQUK the old formula. I got interested and asked some questions. He have topped with Reload and Merlins Elixir about every 2 months or so. And last Reload application was early december. The CQUK is 2 years old and still behaves on all surfaces around 70-80%. He was with Reset car soap only and use always a prewash foam that is slightly alkaline. If he needs and often during the winter months here in Sweden a tar remover. And he lives in a more harsher winter environment than me here in Sweden too. So even with degreasers used it holds up quite good I think. The thing is to not get the coating clogged to much before useing a chemical that desolves the reason why it's clogged. And that differs on the environment you live in and what products you uses too. I would go with a tar remover like TarX and see if you get the behavior back. If you have an iron remover test if you get any bleeding effect that will say if you have industrial fallout or iron particals on the paint. And mostly behind the front wheels and to the back of the car and half way up on the side panels you see most iron particals. If you have industrial fallout you have those mostly on the horisontall panels.
Click to expand...
 
Has anybody tried,

22ple HPC High Performance Coating?

It was recommended to me & wondering if anybody else has experience with it?

Thanks
 
The bottom half of the doors is always the first to go. No ceramic can stand up to the task for long.

Obviously this is dependent on your environmental conditions however it typically isn’t due to chemicals, it’s abrasion that kills it.

If you’ve given it a good decontamination then I trust your conclusion of it being dead.

It’s simply the nature of a coating and it’s durability and won’t be improved much over changing brand. You could try multiple layers on the lower half however I suspect it won’t double and triple longevity, just increase slightly.
 
I have Cquartz UK 3.0 on my Truck first time I have used C Quartz. It has held up pretty well but like you mentioned the lower half of the doors are pretty beat. I just did a Ironx decontamination and reapplied reload and it beads again. My truck is white so I could see all the specks. Almost all are gone. I use Polish Angel Viking coat on my wife’s car and it’s survived over two winters. I’m down South on the 401 from you and our city loves using Salt and the brine mixture. If I compared the two for longevity I would say the PA shows better.
 
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