Best Choice for a New Polisher/Buffer?

Yamasixx

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Ok...I'm ready to expand my horizons. Guess I want to get the best shine in a shorter amount of time, so here's the deal.

1. I'm a complete noob on Electric polishers. I've always cleaned the crap out of my cars but always by hand.

2. Choices are between the 7424xp or a Cyclon Pro. I've read quite a bit on both of them but wanting some opinions on what would be best for me and why.

3. My DD is a 05' Tacoma DC in Radiant Red. It looks good from a distance but it has some pretty good swirls. I have been working on parts of it as a test for products and have also done some claying. I will start learning with my new polisher on this.

4. My garage keeper is a Black '10 Mustang GT. It's my baby and has been professionally detailed as of a year ago. It never see's rain and only has 10,000 miles on it. Paint is in really good shape but I want to move onto this once I get comfortable with the polisher.

I think if I just had the truck, I'd go with the Cyclon. The biggest question that I have is the ease of use on the smaller panels of the Mustang later on. As always I'm certainly concerned about doing damage and from what I've read, they are both pretty noob friendly. Thoughts anyone?

Thanks!
 
I've never tried a Cyclon polisher but I do have a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher. Mine is the first generation and it's still going strong after 14 years. I do have to admit though that most of it's duty today is relegated to applying sealants and waxes. My go to dual action polisher now is my Flex 3401...

You'll probably get many different opinions as there are several Porter Cable type polishers out there and all have a following.
 
Here's some videos on how the different polishers work...


Part 1 - How To Pick the Right Car Polisher for your Detail Project
[video=youtube_share;LtrdTvnZX3I"]YouTube- Part 1 - How To Pick the Right Car...[/video]​



Part 2 - How To Pick the Right Car Polisher for your Detail Project
[video=youtube_share;2k92m5cJxCk"]YouTube- Part 2 - How To Pick the Right Car...[/video]​



All about the FLEX-3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
[video=youtube_share;EAmojb8XIuk&hd=1"]All about the FLEX-3401 Forced Rotation Dual...[/video]​



:buffing:
 
Here's one that shows how safe the PC "style" polishers are to use...



Removing Swirls and Oxidation By Machine
[video=youtube_share;PWdYCHZrpd8"]How To Remove Oxidation by Machine Polishing with...[/video]​







:)
 
Wow, lots of good information there. I think I saw you do that green truck on TV a while back......quite impressive!

The Flex seems to scare me a bit since I'm such an amateur with this process. It would appear I have much more of a chance of burning through the paint with this?

The Cyclo(now that I got the name right) seems to be a better machine than the PC but harder to work with on smaller areas?

Thanks Guys!
 
I never heard if that polisher either. I Googled it and nothing quickly came up. The PC is the industry standard and it is what all the other DA machines are based on. They are pretty high quality for a tool in this price range. I've had mine for 6 or 7 years. It seems like the Moore I use it - the better it works.

There is just one thing: MAKE SURE YOU GET 5.5" PADS TO POLISH WITH !!!!!

A lot of "kits" come with larger pads. Why? Nobody knows. This machine works best with 5.5" pads.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about burning paint, even with a Flex 3401. If I were you I would go with the PC and get the Meguiar's Microfiber DA setup--it's really easy and it works really well. Best if you have a small air compressor to blow out the pads between panels...even one of those cheapo $80 on sale ones is fine for that.
 
I never heard if that polisher either. I Googled it and nothing quickly came up. The PC is the industry standard and it is what all the other DA machines are based on. They are pretty high quality for a tool in this price range. I've had mine for 6 or 7 years. It seems like the Moore I use it - the better it works.

There is just one thing: MAKE SURE YOU GET 5.5" PADS TO POLISH WITH !!!!!

A lot of "kits" come with larger pads. Why? Nobody knows. This machine works best with 5.5" pads.

Sorry, it's Cyclo. They have them in the Autogeek store.
 
If you are new Cyclo is the easiest machine to use, It is the safest and fatigue free machine I own. I would invest in a 3" Griots for tight areas. IME the Cyclo will do fine on your Mustang too.
 
If you are new Cyclo is the easiest machine to use, It is the safest and fatigue free machine I own. I would invest in a 3" Griots for tight areas. IME the Cyclo will do fine on your Mustang too.

I was wondering how easy it was to handle. Funny thing is, it's the only one I can find locally so I can see how what's it's like before I buy. You would take this over a 3401 or the PC for a newbie then?
 
I never heard if that polisher either. I Googled it and nothing quickly came up. The PC is the industry standard and it is what all the other DA machines are based on. They are pretty high quality for a tool in this price range. I've had mine for 6 or 7 years. It seems like the Moore I use it - the better it works.

There is just one thing: MAKE SURE YOU GET 5.5" PADS TO POLISH WITH !!!!!

A lot of "kits" come with larger pads. Why? Nobody knows. This machine works best with 5.5" pads.

I agree.The 6.5" pads don't spin easily I use my PC just to apply waxes and sealants with 5.5" pads for paint corrections I use my Flex 3401 which performs better than the PC.

Johny
 
Wow, lots of good information there. I think I saw you do that green truck on TV a while back......quite impressive!

Oxidation on a single stage finish is an easy fix and easy to create a DRAMATIC before and after.

When I arrived to their TV studio my eyes instantly began looking for something to demonstrate on and that truck jumped out screaming,

Me, me me!



The Flex seems to scare me a bit since I'm such an amateur with this process. It would appear I have much more of a chance of burning through the paint with this?

A very safe and powerful tool, here's what I just posted about it in this thread, see post #26

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...y-would-anyone-use-da-paint-correction-3.html


Mike Phillips said:
I would agree with this only because of the unique "walking" characteristic the tool has and that's because it oscillates under forced rotation. It basically teaches you to hold the pad flat and that's what you're supposed to be doing anyways. I also teach this in all my classes, that is how to properly use the Flex 3401 by holding the pad flat.


How To Polish a Street Rod! - Modeled by Stacy!

1940Ford019.jpg


1940Ford020.jpg


1940Ford021.jpg


1940Ford022.jpg





And it's definitely easier to use and control by upgrading to the 4" backing plate and then using the 5" Hybrid pads.


New 5" pads for 4" Backing Plate on Flex 3401

1965Plymouth009.jpg


1965Plymouth010.jpg




Live Broadcast Video - 1965 Plymouth Valiant - Extreme Makeover


1965Plymouth044.jpg



1965Plymouth045.jpg




There is just one thing: MAKE SURE YOU GET 5.5" PADS TO POLISH WITH !!!!!


5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers


If you are new Cyclo is the easiest machine to use, It is the safest and fatigue free machine I own. I would invest in a 3" Griots for tight areas. IME the Cyclo will do fine on your Mustang too.

Here's Jim's excellent review of the Cyclo...


Cyclo -Old Technology in a Modernized Package


:xyxthumbs:
 
I've looked much closer at the Flex and am now leaning towards that unit. I did see the option for the smaller plates and I think I'll be going that route. I do have all the product I need, but can anybody tell me what pads to start off with?
 
Im looking at getting the Flex as well along with the new 5 inch hybrid pads for it. I love the smaller 5.5 pads on my D/A and im sure I will love the 5 inch hybrid pads on the Flex.
 
I've looked much closer at the Flex and am now leaning towards that unit. I did see the option for the smaller plates and I think I'll be going that route. I do have all the product I need, but can anybody tell me what pads to start off with?

Here's a link to an article I have on the 5" Hybrid pads.


New 5" pads for 4" Backing Plate on Flex 3401


You could easily start out with just the orange, white and black...


:)
 
Like many here on the forum, I've read a ton of posts about the different features and attributes of the different polishing tools available. It might help those trying to make a buying decision if those who have used these various units spoke to why they reach for a specific tool in a specific set of circumstances. Guess I'm saying try to explain in more detail "the right tool for the right job" concept, since a newbie doesn't know how to answer that question. I could be wrong but I'm assuming a pro knows the tasks he/she needs to perform and then goes out and purchases the right tool for that job. Again to the newbie side of the equation, the fact that one tool is direct drive with forced rotation versus a dual action polisher, difficult to cut through all of that for the novice. It might be more helpful to explain the conditions that dictate using one machine over another.
 
Again to the newbie side of the equation, the fact that one tool is direct drive with forced rotation versus a dual action polisher, difficult to cut through all of that for the novice.

It might be more helpful to explain the conditions that dictate using one machine over another.


I answered part of your question when I posted videos that "show" and explain what the differences are between how the drive mechanisms work. That's important to know because they are very different.

As far as which tool to use for which job, I wrote an article about this too and I'll include the link below but suffice to say,

For fastest cutting power available you would choose a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a compound. This would be the best option for removing sanding marks after wetsanding or removing lots of oxidation off an oxidized boat or fiberglass skinned RV.

You can also polish to a high gloss using a rotary buffer but the problem is that the direct drive rotating action tends to impart it's own scratch pattern called holograms. Some people state they can use a rotary buffer on all paint systems, (everything they buff), without leaving any swirls but they never state how they checked and also never prove it, so you just have to take their word.


The next most powerful tool for detailing cars would be the Flex 3401 forced rotation dual action polisher. This is a very powerful tool that rotates AND oscillates using a direct drive gear mechanism so you cannot stop the pad from spinning, this is what separates it from the PC "style" of tools.

It costs more but it's a Pro Grade Tool. Period. In my opinion it's worth the investment to get the 4" backing plate and the 5" Hybrid pads, both foam and fiber and with this set-up you can tackle just about anything. I would still use a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks and severe oxidation.


They Cyclo offers both a gear driven drive mechanism and a free spinning mechanism so it does offer more power than the PC "style" tools. You have lots of pad option, both foam and wool and it's really a tool you need to use and compare at the same time to the other tool options to decide which tool works best for you.


The PC style DA Polisher, this includes anything that looks like or operates like the Porter Cable 7424XP, including the Meguiar's G110v2, Griot's Garage DA Polisher, Shurhold DA Polisher and all of the other variants emerging onto the market. These are all a version of the original which is a wood sander from Porter Cable and I share the entire history and story out of another article below.


The PC style is the easiest to learn how to use and master, that's two things by the way, not just one. Since I've been teaching classes on how to use the PC as long and longer than most people I know, I'm very comfortable saying the below...

We all start out working by hand, don't know anyone that started washing and waxing cars that REALLY started their very first time using a machine. Regardless, back on topic, most of us start out working by hand and then moving up to working by machine.

When a person start with a PC "style" tool as their first machine, at some point they master it and all the power it has to offer and then they will sometimes complain that it doesn't have enough power.

They FORGET from where they came from and that's by working with something even weaker and slower and that's their hand. :laughing:

Then they complain about the price of the Flex 3401, (MORE POWER), but are wary of the risks and extra muscle required to use a rotary buffer.


So which tool is the right tool for the job?

The one you own. Learn to master the polisher you already own and don't limit yourself to just one tool. Budget and plan for a second tool and then you really can match the right tool to the job.

If you have a PC "style" tool, then get a rotary buffer or Flex 3401 next and accessories.

An analogy I like to use goes like this,


"Power tools are to men as shoes are to women, you can never have too many"


:)
 
Here's the articles I referenced above...

How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project

The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...



This one shows how big an area you can tackle at one time and get the job done while leaving a swirl or hologram-free finish.


How To Use The Flex 3401


This is a full size truck hood and I divided it into 4 equal sections. It still requires >you< work the buffer as that's a pretty good size to tackle and do it well at one time.

Flex3401BeforeAfter005.jpg





Hope the above all helps...


:D
 
I was wondering how easy it was to handle. Funny thing is, it's the only one I can find locally so I can see how what's it's like before I buy. You would take this over a 3401 or the PC for a newbie then?
Yes! It is so easy I had my daughter, who had never used a polisher, use it on my Ford and she did great!
 
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