Best Menzerna combo + Pad for a 2008 Audi Black A4

Gizmo

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I've been having bad luck getting marring / haze even after applying Super Finish Nano with a soft bad. These defects are only visible when shining a direct flash over over.

What's the best combo to purchase for removing medium swirls without micro marring / hazing the paint ?

thanks
 
106 fa should be more than capable of removing fine swirls. You can try it on a white pad and it should work. Are you sure you aren't putting the marring in the paint with your towel when you buff off the polish? High quality towels are a must.
 
106 fa should be more than capable of removing fine swirls. You can try it on a white pad and it should work. Are you sure you aren't putting the marring in the paint with your towel when you buff off the polish? High quality towels are a must.

I am using a very-soft micro fiber towel for clean up. I go in horizontal but my left over swirls are circular :(

When you say White Pad, which brand are you recommending?
 
I am using a very-soft micro fiber towel for clean up. I go in horizontal but my left over swirls are circular :(

When you say White Pad, which brand are you recommending?


It looks really good after I am done polishing it, but as soon as the flash light comes out. All the imperfections show..
 
Menzera 106fa and a Lake Country white pad and along with proper technique should give a swirl free finish.
Courtesy of MikePhillips

Here's a list of the most common problems

1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.
2. Move the polisher too fast over the surface.
3. Too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
4. Too little pressure on the head of the unit.
5. Too much pressure on the head of the unit so the pad quits rotating.
6. Not keeping the pad flat while working your product.
7. Too much product, too little product.
8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.

Here's a list of the solutions in matching order,

1. Shrink your work area down, the harder the paint the smaller the area you can work. The average area should be and average of about 16" by 16" up to 20" by 20" or so. You have to do some experimenting, (called a Test Spot), to find out how easy or how hard the defects are coming out of your car's paint system and then adjust your work area to the results of your Test Spot.
2. For removing defects out of the paint you want to use what we call a Slow Arm Speed. It's really easy to move the polisher too quickly because the sound of the motor spinning fast has a psychological effect to for some reason want to make people move the polisher fast. Also the way most people think is that, "If I move the polisher quickly, I'll get done faster", but it doesn't work that way.
3. When first starting out many people are scared of burning or swirling their paint, so they take the safe route of running the polisher at too low of a speed setting, again... this won't work. The action of the polisher is already g-e-n-t-l-e, you need the speed and specifically the pad rotating over the paint as well as the combination of time, (slow arm speed), together with the diminishing abrasives, the foam type, and the pressure to remove small particles of paint which is how your remove below surface defects like swirls or scratches. It's a leveling process that's somewhat difficult because the tool is safe/gentle while in most cases, modern clear coat paints are harder than traditional single stage paints and this makes them hard to work on. This is also why people get frustrated, they don't understand paint technology, all they know is their paint swirls easy and getting the swirls out is difficult and thus frustrating.
4. For the same reason as stated in #3, people are scared, or perhaps a better word is apprehensive, to apply too much pressure and the result of too little pressure is no paint is removed thus no swirls are removed.
5. Just the opposite of item #4, people think that by pushing harder on the polisher they can work faster and be more aggressive, but the truth is the clutch in the tool is a safety mechanism to prevent burning and will cause the pad to stop rotating, thus less cleaning or abrading action and once in a while this will lead a person to then post on the forum something like this, "Hey my pad doesn't rotate". There needs to be a balance of enough pressure to remove defects and keep the pad rotating but yet not too much pressure as to stop the rotating action. This balance is affected by a lot of things, things like type of chemical, some chemicals provide more lubrication and the pad will spin easier, curved surfaces or any raise in body lines will tend to stop the pad from rotating. This is where experience on how to address these areas comes into play or you do the best you can and move on. It's not a perfect tool, nor a perfect system, but it's almost always better than working/cleaning by hand.
6. Applying pressure in such a way as to put too much pressure to one side of the pad will cause it to stop rotating and thus decrease cleaning ability.
7. Too much product over lubricates the surface and this won't allow the diminishing abrasives to do their job plus it will increase the potential for messy splatter as well as cause pad saturation. Too little product will keep the pad from rotating due to no lubrication and there won't be enough diminishing abrasives to do any work. Again it's a balance that comes with experience, or another way of saying this would be it's a balance that comes with hours of buffing out a car to learn what to do and what not to do. Information like what you're reading here is just an edge to decrease your learning curve. Hope this is helping.
8. Most people don't clean their pad often enough and most of the time the reason for this is because they don't know they're supposed to clean their pad often and they don't know how to clean their pad. Again, that's why this forum is here to help you with both of these things. You should clean your pad after every application of product or every other application of product, your choice, most of the time cleaning your pad after every other application of product works pretty well. It enables you to work clean and enables the foam pad, the polisher and the next application of fresh product too all work effectively. How to clean your pad will be addressed below sooner versus later, but not at the time of this posting. (Sorry, I'm behind a keyboard, not a video camera

The first 4 are the most common. Can't tell you how many times we hear a comment like this from someone in the garage
 
I have had great results with my Porter Cable + Menzerna nano polish + 5inch orange cutting pad (lake country)...works great on light- medium scratches and swirls. Most times I find it harder/more work to use my PC with Nanopolish and my 6.5 white pads on light-medium swirls.

But I would agree with Dougaross, make sure you are performing the basics so that you dont use a more aggressive method/polish than what is necessary, that in itself should help prevent micro-marring. My suggestion is more so for the medium swirls... if they are not coming out easily enough.
 
It looks really good after I am done polishing it, but as soon as the flash light comes out. All the imperfections show..

thats because i'm betting you are actually NOT removing the defects to begin with.

106 IME will not remove any swirls on an Audi or VW paint. It will just amp up gloss and clean up some hazing.

If you want to remove defects on factory Audi paint, you are going to atleast need Super Intensive polish and a Lake Country Cyan Hydro-Tech pad, or a Lake Country yellow flat cutting pad.

Believe it or not, but a yellow pad will finish out pretty good on the Audi paint with SIP (NOT A CCS PAD, but a flat pad). after that the 106 with a Tangerine Hydro-Tech pad will give you excellent results.

These suggestions come from my experience with specifically VW and Audi paint correction. Those are basically the only cars I have worked on since I started detailing.

(I suggest the Hydro-tech pads over the regular LC traditional pads)
 
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