Best type of polisher for getting high gloss?

brettS4

brettS4

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All else being equal (pads, compounds, technique adjusted to machine) is there a certain type of polisher action that gives better results for getting that 'concours finish' we're all looking for when final polishing?

I assume a long-throw machine won't do anything better, but maybe save some time. Would a forced rotation unit offer more consistent control or have any advantage over a standard DA? And is the paint hardness a factor? (For instance, mine is an 11 on a 1-10 scale.)

I have a GG6 that gives me good correcting ability, but so far I haven't gotten the gloss that I want. Would a Flex or Makita help or do I just need to experiment more with pads/polishes?
 
An old saying I will always remember, Brett, "there's no such thing as a professional camera, there is such thing as a professional photographer".

In my opinion, there are detailer's out there that could work magic with a Harbor Freight machine and some less than stellar pad quality. It's the person wielding the equipment (and the experienced brain controlling it) that gets superior results.

My vote is to experiment with product and technique. I am still doing that. As an example, I think IIRC, it was Mike at Dedicated Perfection that brought up a point of working compounds at a slower machine speed than I was currently practicing. I tried it and BAM!

Again, Brett, just my opinion and great question but in my experience I try to exhaust every possible nuance of working what I have.
 
paul a. said:
an old saying i will always remember, brett, "there's no such thing as a professional camera, there is such thing as a professional photographer".

In my opinion, there are detailer's out there that could work magic with a harbor freight machine and some less than stellar pad quality. It's the person wielding the equipment (and the experienced brain controlling it) that gets superior results.

My vote is to experiment with product and technique. I am still doing that. As an example, i think iirc, it was mike at dedicated perfection that brought up a point of working compounds at a slower machine speed than i was currently practicing. I tried it and bam!

Again, brett, just my opinion and great question but in my experience i try to exhaust every possible nuance of working what i have.
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^^^^^this^^^^^
 
IMO. You can take an idiot with a rupes or flex or a highly skilled person with a porter cable. Its really about looking what damage you need to fix and using a mix of everything to get good results
 
Just to revisit your original question, Brett, which machine "action" gets the best final finish for clarity, gloss etc. In very rare occasions I'll jewel paint with my rotary, sometimes my Flex 3401 and finally, sometimes with my Porter Cable. It varies by paint and workability. Now, is there one of those 3 that, with the right final polish, can refine Audi paint better than what you're currently getting? My guess (and again my OPINION) is that there is a product, pad, machine speed, arm movement and pressure that, used with your GG unit, yields the best you're ever gonna get. The fun part for me is trying to find it.

As I mentioned above, I've used and will continue to use all 3 machine actions depending on the job at hand. One I specifically remember is an Audi A4 some years ago that I jewelled with my rotary. I know what you mean by an 11 on the scale! To me, if it's that hard to cut and level it is equally hard to final polish. When you wipe off after that effort and see a clear, perfectly reflected inspection light you got it.

I'll also add that if the GG corrects adequately it can work your paint satisfactorily for final buff out.
 
IMO any DA can give you that look with the right technique. Product would be another. I can get the same results with my PC7424XP and my Flex 3401. I use 3M Ultrafine 3000 for my jeweling polish for my 3401 and if I have to polish Menzerna SF4500 with my PC. I also agree beauty is in the eye of the beholder. My guess you should be fine with what you are doing.
 
That's the logic I've always gone by. Perhaps I'm just losing a little patience in my advanced years. But I was thinking of upgrading to forced rotation with the argument that at the low speeds used for jeweling, it can be difficult to maintain pad rotation, particularly on very hard paint where some pressure is required, and especially on curved sections. The forced rotation wouldn't necessarily give better results, but might make it easier.

And there's always the fact that I'm a gear junkie always looking for a reason to buy a new toy. If I knew it wouldn't make any difference in my results or time invested, I wouldn't bother. But chasing that glow, especially on a 12 year old car that normal people would shrug and say 'that's as good as it gets' when you know otherwise. Well, that's why we're all here, I guess.

Maybe I'll keep my eye open for a bargain on a used 3401. But I think the Makita would suit me more.
 
Pads and polishing compounds are more likely to get the desired gloss results more so than what polisher is powering them.
 
Ronin47 said:
Pads and polishing compounds are more likely to get the desired gloss results more so than what polisher is powering them.
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My thoughts too. There are certain combinations that are perfect on certain types of paint. The fun is in figuring out that combination.
 
Brett, there were some great points made in your most recent post and I completely understand what you are saying. In my example of using my rotary on the last Audi I did (silver A4) I cited that because of my need and desire to use a direct drive action for what I found to be very hard paint. I can understand the thinking of forced rotation as maybe easier and faster. That's a valid point and it worked for me, especially on hard Audi paint!

I wish you were near me because I would love to loan out my Flex 3401 for you to try. I haven't tried the new Makita 5000 but am intrigued by the idea of mixing machine actions on one machine...well, not really machine "actions" but rather mixing direct drive with free spinning.

Maybe someone is near you that might be willing to extend that offer. I would love to hear what your impression and results are.

Your objective is based on the shared passion we pursue here. Geting that ultimate "glow" is the single most satisfying thing to me. I would love to hear you found it.
 
Paul A. said:
An old saying I will always remember, Brett, "there's no such thing as a professional camera, there is such thing as a professional photographer".

In my opinion, there are detailer's out there that could work magic with a Harbor Freight machine and some less than stellar pad quality. It's the person wielding the equipment (and the experienced brain controlling it) that gets superior results.

My vote is to experiment with product and technique. I am still doing that. As an example, I think IIRC, it was Mike at Dedicated Perfection that brought up a point of working compounds at a slower machine speed than I was currently practicing. I tried it and BAM!

Again, Brett, just my opinion and great question but in my experience I try to exhaust every possible nuance of working what I have.[/QUOTE

I tried his technique and found the results that you got
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Yeah of course the flex and long throws are better then the gg6. They say abrasive technology is the most important part try rupees 4 step system
 
a lot has to do with the abrasive technology I feel, I've taught many people how to polish and by the end of a few hrs no matter if its the GG6 or the Rupes they all get amazing results. the only common factor is the pad, product combo they use, one machine might need more passes but in the end the result is generally always the same.
 
On most colors it's almost impossible for me to tell the difference but there have been quite a few time where the rotary has been noticeably better. I've also think the Rupes finishes better than the Flex 3401 but again I've only noticed this on a few occasions, most times the finish product is the same across the varied tool spectrum
 
Mike Phillips said:
I'd give the edge to the long stroke free spinning orbital or the rotary when jeweling.

I've seen it and I think I've proven it to my own eyes.

It becomes a moot point when you factor in the great equalizer.


:)
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Says the "Great Equalizer" himself......... :bowdown:
 
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