Best way to practice? Should I get a test hood?

Radarryan

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I am trying to find the best way to practice certain techniques that I have never done, such as working with a rotary buffer, wet sanding, jeweling, etc. What I want to do is have the skills in my arsenal, for my family's cars, when I get new (or at least new to me) cars, and if I decide to pick up the odd job here or there.

What I was thinking is picking up a large SUV hood and sanding it down completely, then painting it black. I want to have a test panel similar to what Mike Phillips and Todd Helme use in their testings. What I don't know is how would I go about painting it, since I am a weekend warrior with no experience painting. Could it be done with a spray (rattle-can) primer, base, and clear? Would I need to try to find a hood in a junk yard that is in okay shape and just try to restore that, practicing the wet sanding, rotary buffing with a wool pad, to restore the finish to a high gloss?

Basically, rather than practicing on my 2000 Range Rover, which has already been corrected and Opti-Coated, I want to find something that I can mess up on (because let's face it, I will be messing up. Probably a lot) and have very little repercussions. If I burn through the clear then it doesn't matter because I can sand it off, spray it again, and start over.

All that being said, is there a better way to practice different techniques at my own pace, while still being safe (safe in terms of not having liability to a customer or ruining an investment). I am open to anything that can help me become a better paint restorer, while still being economical (for example, I don't want to go out and buy a car to try to restore the paint on).

Any and all feedback will be greatly appreciated.Feed back please If there is anyone that has done this before or knows someone who has, please give all the advice you can. To professionals also, if you didn't do this type of practicing, how did you learn and perfect your craft?

Thanks, again and happy detailing!
 
Go to a salvage yard and ask them is you could borrow a hood,I'm sure they wouldn't mind, I mean they could sell it to someone who is in need of a hood, more so if it's the same color as their car.
I say this because I did it once, they said just to return it, when I did they couldn't beleive how I took an oxidized panel and brought it back to life.
Tell them up front that there's a small chance that you could burn the paint, that way you'd be covered and they'd understand.

You know I may do the same, I'll try and find one that is trashed but without scratches, just a swirled up hood with bad oxidized paint.
Would be a good way to test new products.

Many years ago I saw this old Ford that's been parked for years, I stopped by and spoke with the owner, he said knock yourself out, I wanted to learn how to wet sand and from there I became good at it.:dblthumb2:

Yep, it would be fun , glad I read your post:dblthumb2:
 
You could also take Mike Phillips' class and learn from one of the best. But, having a test panel would be useful in any regard. The idea of having the panel painted is good because OEM paint usually doesn't have enough clear to practice on. You could actually practice all the really bad techniques on the OEM paint and once you destroy it and or burn through, you can go get it painted. Also, if you have friends with panels that definitely need to be repainted/repaired, then see it you can practice on them. Like if a friend has some scratches that they want repaired and it is borderline body shop, then you could really get some really world experience with trying to remove scratches on OEM paint. In most cases it will look better and the friend might decide to live with it vise spending money at a shop. Or you make it worse and they have to get it repainted anyway. Just a thought and in my mind they would be no harm and both parties could learn something from it. When looking for panels at the junk yard or on craigslist or wherever, don't over look truck tail gates as well as car trunks and doors. These panels force you to work the rotary in a smaller section than a hood may. And they can be easier to mount/secure than a large hood. Plus you will have different contours and body lines to work with and really learn to use the rotary on.
I have been wanting to get a couple of demo panels too, especially since a couple neighbors work for a yard. I can have them spot panels before they are gone or crushed and get a little better deal possibly.
 
I got my hood & quarter panel from a local body shop. Just asked them politely if they could "donate" any panels from any accident to help an aspiring retailer.

It worked for me a couple times now. One even let me pick out which ones i liked the most. Sure they get money for scrapping it but if they are nice guys I'm sure they will help out.
 
I have been polishing cars for over 16 years now and it takes a lifetime to master a rotary.
 
Using a Rotary is possible. I use one all the time. I did 2 fenders a bumper, hood and drivers side door today. After wet sanding it and taking off dirts that the painter left on the car. While I can sand and buff on a Rotary. Aside from working at the body shop on repaints. With todays machines, I don't see that much of a necessity on using rotary's. Heck I am probably wrong. :dunno:

While I can use one. I am not at the level seasoned vet's are. Also, with today's technology like 3M 3000 and 5000. Today's DA's can take on the job. I have noticed that when detailers on youtube (for the most part) they wet sand a scratch.

Not entire cars but then there is Meguiar's Project Fearless and Mike Phillips video of him sanding down a whole car. (But those are the seasoned vet's I mentioned above)

I'm not sure how much it would cost to buy a hood at a junkyard and then take it to a body shop to get it resprayed so you could take it home and practice. That sounds like a good idea or even better would be to find a repainted panel at junkyard that never got wet sanded and buffed and practice on that.

Either way, good luck and keep practicing and learning.

Art
 
Be very careful when repairing cars other people have already polished with a rotary you can burn through weakened paint with a PC if the clear is weakened. I am 100% comfortable with a rotary buffer, because I have been using them my entire life, with that said you never know who has already buffed a car and left the clear weakened and here you come with a rotary and burn through on 2 passes. It happens believe me it happened to me before and you are left with the repair. If you're going to polish paint this is also one thing you need to consider. I would suggest limiting yourself to scratches that aren't too deep, sometimes the customer just had to learn to live with them. I offer scratch removal and scratch reduction. These guys on here feel safe removing scratches 100% and hey more power to them, personally I get the scratch to a point I feel is good and leave it if it's too deep. I always treat a vehicle as if it's me because if I damage it I will be paying for the repair.
 
I have an extra hood from one of my old bmws around so that's going to be a good practice hood for me. better to mess that up than on my car. and I can practice on that a thousand times or as long as the hood has clear coat left on it.
 
If you find the panel you want, and want to paint it or apply clear coat, this place, automotivetouchup.com, will sell you automotive paint or clear coat in a can.
 
Practice, practice, practice. Get old panels from junk yards, panels off of wrecked newer cars from body shops, repaired panels if you can find them (repainted cars are different than OEM0. They're all different and all will react differently. Practicing and learning on one type will give you some experience. Understanding and being able to recognize/feel differences in paint is an invaluable skill that only comes with experience
 
I checked Craigslist once for getting a panel of sorts to help demonstrate paint correction techniques to folks I'll be teaching. Search term "hood" in the auto parts section. I was surprised at how many hoods there were for cheap on there. I settled on a repainted 1970 Chevelle hood painted in BCCC, paid $80 for it.
 
Practice, practice, practice. Get old panels from junk yards, panels off of wrecked newer cars from body shops, repaired panels if you can find them (repainted cars are different than OEM0. They're all different and all will react differently. Practicing and learning on one type will give you some experience. Understanding and being able to recognize/feel differences in paint is an invaluable skill that only comes with experience

:iagree: Good post.

I often thought about the black demo hoods used in teaching wet sanding, general paint correction, polishing etc. that are built up with 4 or 6 or more coats of clear. They're definitely great for demonstrating general technique and allowing a student to get the feel for how it all works.

I think what would be a responsible practice would be to have in addition to those custom demo hoods, a few OEM painted hoods (even half custom sprayed/half OEM sprayed) to show how easy it is to cut through factory thin clear coat in relation to the thick film build of the custom hoods.

Working on a thick film build of custom sprayed clear is not at all representative of what we'll find in most cases out in the real world.

Not adding (or adamantly warning about) the contrast between custom sprayed and OEM thickness film builds into your teachings sells a false confidence to the students.

I'm certain that Mike and the AG staff have this covered in their classes but a guy like myself who's doing 1 on 1 teaching should certainly consider it.

I just thought it to be worth a mention.
 
If you find the panel you want, and want to paint it or apply clear coat, this place, automotivetouchup.com, will sell you automotive paint or clear coat in a can.

Spray can, that is. My neighbor just replaced the front bumper on his 328i, and they paint matched his color and shipped the paint and clear coat in spray cans. Easy as a paint gun.
 
If you find the panel you want, and want to paint it or apply clear coat, this place, automotivetouchup.com, will sell you automotive paint or clear coat in a can.

Spray can, that is. My neighbor just replaced the front bumper on his 328i, and they paint matched his color and shipped the paint and clear coat in spray cans. Easy as a paint gun.

Yeah, you can do some really nice work with rattle cans nowadays. I got my rattle cans from a local PPG retailer but have also used them from your source and they're a great match to OEM paint code.

I did this http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/49611-did-little-bumper-repair-my-new-shop.html using all rattle cans.
 
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