Blackfire polish leaving a haze......

Mydnyghte

Mydnyghte

Member
Joined
May 14, 2006
Messages
100
Reaction score
0
Finally decided to give my car a much needed detailing today. After everything was washed and dried off, I got to inspecting the paint condition. Surprisingly, it wasn't bad. Other than the new water spots from someone having to stop in the middle of washing to go get gas for the pressure washer, everything looked good.
Here and there were some light swirls, so I figured I'd bring out the Gloss Enhancing Polish and a white pad. Test spot looked good, but as I kept going, I noticed the areas where I had done a full correction last year had sharper reflections than the areas I just finished.
Also noticed that the areas I hit with my 3" Griots buffer and red pad were leaving clearer sections.
I think I managed to capture it in the photos. The one you can see the pre polish section with water spots and a clear reflection. The other shows kind of a halo around the light.
What am I missing?
 
PC with a white pad. You'd think the OP would have mentioned that......Im the MAN
 
Blackfire GEP has ZERO cut, it's just a paint cleaner. The haze created was probably by the pad. Try a black pad, or now try a fine polish, work out the haze created.

Also, GEP if left to sit a while can be like concrete to remove, it's one negative, perhaps this is the case and your seeing polish residue not removed. Try some APC.

Those are my two thoughts, hope they help
 
I thought GEP was supposed to be worked completely down until there is nothing left to wipe off or is that just for BF Total Polish & Seal?
 
allenk4 said:
I thought GEP was supposed to be worked completely down until there is nothing left to wipe off or is that just for BF Total Polish & Seal?
Click to expand...

Both. This is what I was going to suggest, that the polishes weren't finished down completely
 
Mydnyghte said:
PC with a white pad. You'd think the OP would have mentioned that......Im the MAN
Click to expand...

Ha Ha. Just wanted to know which white pad (CCS, hybrid, flat,b&s) If it was a CCS, the little pockets could have kept releasing product and caused it not to burnish out evenly. As others have said, it should be worked until almost gone at low speed, similar to BFTPS.
 
Awesome, thanks for the quick replies guys. I'm using CCS pads.

Will try the suggestions and see what works best. The bottle says for a DA to run it between 4 and 5, does it work better on a lower speed?
 
Yes.

Black pad and working longer was the ticket. Which explains why my Griots was working better, as I believe those 3" red pads are equivalent to a black pad.

Am going to follow with some Crystal Sealant then Black Ice (which I've yet to use, I tremble with anticipation) and call it a day. Thoughts?
 
General concensus seems to be that DAT polishes work better with flat pads so you are constantly working all the polish and not reintroducing unspent polish from the CCS pockets. For SMAT polishes, CCS pads work fine.

Also, I'll work a polish on my GG6 with a 4" pad about 1 tick lower than if I was using 5.5". So I use speed 4-4.5 usually with 5.5" and would use speed 3-3.5 with the 4".

Crystal Seal topped with Black Ice should be awesome. Apply 2 coats of CS one hour apart. Then wait 24 hours to apply the BI.
 
allenk4 said:
I thought GEP was supposed to be worked completely down until there is nothing left to wipe off or is that just for BF Total Polish & Seal?
Click to expand...

GEP is a paint cleaner, theres nothing to work down really. 3-4 passes is what I do
 
cleanmycorolla said:
GEP is a paint cleaner, theres nothing to work down really. 3-4 passes is what I do
Click to expand...

Agree. With some paint cleaners, they dry out if you over buff them (too long) by machine and hard to remove. WG has a decent work time but Four Star seemed more prone to drying out,
 
allenk4 said:
I thought GEP was supposed to be worked completely down until there is nothing left to wipe off or is that just for BF Total Polish & Seal?
Click to expand...

That's how i use it also...sometimes with a white LC pad and sometimes with a black. I also vary my speeds on my PC too between 3.5 - 5. The pad remains at least moist with product so i never dry buff.

I can see it looks like black paint but what is the vehicle?
 
So after that initial panel, things took a turn. I do not have a clue what changed, but I could not get a clear finish to save my beard. I've never used GEP before and figured it would give me a nice touch up, but I never got the hang of it. I do not have any flat pads, so that might have been my hang up.

I then decided to do what I should have at the beginning: stick with what I know. Out came the SRC FP and a white pad, and got to work. Gentlemen, things changed.

I'm kicking myself from not using this to begin with, it would have saved me so much time. I'm currently going back over everything I did earlier, and man what a difference. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
 
That finish looked like micromarring, likely caused from the pad (and lack of any real "polish" along the way).

The last ones do look better indeed. Never used BF SRCFP, but it is for shizzle betta' than the first time 'round. :D
 
I had the same issue the last time I used my GEP, just would not wipe off. It looked like it untill you looked down the side of the car. I ended up using some poly spray with it to get it off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top