BMW 545i with 60/k miles progress

Totoland Mach

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Started on a 545i with 60/k on the odometer. The front end really showed the mileage and was pitted a bunch.

Process: 3000 grit with the air sander followed by compounding. I'm really liking that Optimum Compound's new formula.

1st Pic shows dulling the surface with 3000 grit
BMW545i_3000grit_headlights.jpg


2nd Pic shows front bumper sanded
BMW545i_3000grit_frontbumper.jpg


3rd Pic shows Optimum Compound finishing
BMW545i_compounded_front.jpg


Pic of u-know-who getting an upper body workout with compound and rotary
TotoPolishing545i_SideDoor.jpg


Car is polished and glazed with XMT Finishing Glaze (the best stuff out there)
BMW545i_Polished_and_xmtGlaze.jpg


Indoor Reflection Shot After XMT Glaze
BMW545i_XMTGlaze_TrunkReflection.jpg


XMT Glaze Reflection on Trunk.
BMW545i_XMTGlazeReflection.jpg


Toto
 
Last edited:
Forgot to say: Polishing the lower part of a car is sooooo much easier with a Snap On lift.

TotoPolishing545i.jpg


Toto
 
Very nice pic #6 looks as if you dipped the paint in CC..IMHO, XMT looks like it produces a wetter look when worked with a rotory then a PC..

did you notice if XMT has any corrective abilities or light abbrassives?
 
Joe: Thanks for the comment. I really can't say if the XMT Glaze has any corrective abilities because I've pretty much taken care of any swirls and scratches with the compound.

I'm gonna buy a tripod for the camera so I can take close-up shots in this indoor environment. Maybe I can catch some corrective action if it does that.

At this point of the process, I go straight to AIO, then a coat of Wolfgang or Meg's #21 sealant. I've still got the interior to do this morning, then I'm finished with this car and have another BMW 745 in the line to do.

Toto
 
Where can you get XMT's in that sized container!?!?!

Awesome looking shop and work my fellow detailer. I'm going to be purchasing a rotary very soon!
 
justin30513 said:
Where can you get XMT's in that sized container!?!?!

Awesome looking shop and work my fellow detailer. I'm going to be purchasing a rotary very soon!

Why Justin...you can get 32 oz XMT "raht cheer" at AutoGeek. Back when AG had the promo, I got samples of the XMT line and promptly ordered a "Big Boy" bottle.

I was a little intimidated by the rotary when I first started, but after doing 5 cars so far, it's getting easier (except for the weight of the tool on this old man's arms). If the rotary has a negative it's SPLATTER! Can't stop it, no matter what I try to do. I pre-spread the product as much as possible, but the stuff still goes all over the place.

Toto
 
Totoland Mach said:
Why Justin...you can get 32 oz XMT "raht cheer" at AutoGeek. Back when AG had the promo, I got samples of the XMT line and promptly ordered a "Big Boy" bottle.

I was a little intimidated by the rotary when I first started, but after doing 5 cars so far, it's getting easier (except for the weight of the tool on this old man's arms). If the rotary has a negative it's SPLATTER! Can't stop it, no matter what I try to do. I pre-spread the product as much as possible, but the stuff still goes all over the place.

Toto

Yeah I've heard about the splatter but isn't the time saved over PC worth it? I've been told you can cut your work time in half easily with a rotary vs. PC and do alot more paint correction.
 
Justin: yep, splatter is something to contend with. The rotary can do corrections in a very short amount of time. Where I used to spend 4+ hours with a pc correcting swirls, I do the correction in 1.5 hours with a rotary. And, I'm slower than a snail. The shop owner said there are some pro detailers that work in commerical shops that can sand, compound, polish, wax, and do a complete interior in 6 hours.....incredible!

You'll find the rotary and pad/product will only take 1-2 passes, then use a finish pad for glaze and you're done! Learning to use 3000 grit was also a big help. I can knock out scratches pretty quickly using that method. I haven't ventured into 2000 or even 1500 grit (but have them available) as you have to be extremely careful of cutting through the clear coat completely.

Okay, enough internet for me....I gotta get out to the shop and complete this 545i this morning. I've got a 745 waiting in the wings.

Toto
 
Totoland Mach said:
Justin: yep, splatter is something to contend with. The rotary can do corrections in a very short amount of time. Where I used to spend 4+ hours with a pc correcting swirls, I do the correction in 1.5 hours with a rotary. And, I'm slower than a snail. The shop owner said there are some pro detailers that work in commerical shops that can sand, compound, polish, wax, and do a complete interior in 6 hours.....incredible!

You'll find the rotary and pad/product will only take 1-2 passes, then use a finish pad for glaze and you're done! Learning to use 3000 grit was also a big help. I can knock out scratches pretty quickly using that method. I haven't ventured into 2000 or even 1500 grit (but have them available) as you have to be extremely careful of cutting through the clear coat completely.

Okay, enough internet for me....I gotta get out to the shop and complete this 545i this morning. I've got a 745 waiting in the wings.

Toto


I too am looking to start wet sanding. Check this product out and tell me what you think....

www.wetwedge.com

Maybe something at AG should start carrying.

You best be taking some more pics bro!!!!
You do some awesome work.
 
At what point does one consider wet sanding?
 
P1et said:
At what point does one consider wet sanding?

When you have the knowledge and the customer steps up and pays for it!!!

Kidding aside, that part is true. You also have to look at the paint and know what damage can be corrected. It helps to have a paint guage to see how much clear you are working with.
 
P1et said:
At what point does one consider wet sanding?
probably after 1,000 hrs on a practice panel,J/K about the hours..for an enthusiast this may be better left to the pros..I have read a few nightmares on the boards where beginners have seen great results removing orange peel then have tried to do some corrective work on some swirls/scratches and sand thru there CC...I think you better wait for Justin to give it a shot and do a review..

Toto you did a fine job..i too noticed the 32 ounce bottle..I have a sealant on my car at this time..so my XMT glaze will have to wait until spring..:(
 
Totoland Mach, looks like your doing a nice job there. And thanks for the info on a rotary. What kind of pads are you using? I screw up some clear coat with 2000 sand paper by hand. So is it better with an air sander?
 
I haven't even tried anything with the PC and I may be getting a head of my self :rolleyes: but can someone please explain this "...3000 grit with the air sander...". What is this? The only thing that comes to my mind is sand paper? Sand paper and paint? Wow, you would really need to be carefull..but the results look really good :cool: .
 
Nica said:
I haven't even tried anything with the PC and I may be getting a head of my self :rolleyes: but can someone please explain this "...3000 grit with the air sander...". What is this? The only thing that comes to my mind is sand paper? Sand paper and paint? Wow, you would really need to be carefull..but the results look really good :cool: .

Yes, we are talking about sand paper.
 
:eek: ....:confused: so let me get this right, you sand paper your vehicle and then apply your sealants and wax? Dude, that takes mad skills if you ask me. Specially when your talking about clear coat as thik as your toe nail!

Hat's of off to you toto your the man :applause: I'm sure with practice it gets easy but let me picture this:

A machine that only knows how to go FAST and you trying to get rid of all imperfection off the vehicle and then waxing. Well I can see the waxing part but the sanding? mmm...

Hey sparkie,

You said "..I screw up some clear coat with 2000 sand paper by hand.". you did this by hand and it still went wrong? If you don't mind me asking what happened?
 
Toto... Did you use XMT Glaze as your LSP? I thought you were supposed to follow that with a carnauba or another wax?

As for the XMT Glaze, I'm pretty sure it has no abrasives whats so ever, but it does have some cleaning capabilities. Also, I too just noticed that XMT has 32 oz. bottles on AG website.
 
I'm using 3M 3000 grit (which is so fine it doesn't even feel anything like sandpaper) with a velcro back (these are fairly expensive round pads). I use a Snap On random orbit air sander or a 3M hand pad with velcro. With this high of a grit number, I spray an area with quick detailer and proceed to take light scratches out (checking the area often to check progress). The trick to remember is you are going to need to compound and glaze where you sanded. This is my 5th car with the shop owner looking over my shoulder and I have the process down pretty good.

WhiteThunder46: XMT Glaze was not my LSP. I was trying this out as a replacement for 3M Glaze which really cakes up in the body seams and has to be power washed out.

Sparkie: I don't really know what brand of pads are on the rotary (I suspect 3M as the owner has most of their product line), but there is a waffle pattern compounding pad and a dark gray waffle finishing pad.

Justin: I think I'm gonna invest in a paint guage. Even though I'm comfortable with the process, I'd like to know if there is a thin area I should bypass. I did screw up one of the mirrors by using compound + rotary and those plastic mirrors CANNOT take the heat of compounding ... I literally burned the paint off the mirror edge. Fortunately the owner understood and said "stuff happens...don't worry about". Apparently plastic body panels and mirror housings are touchy with compounding and the heat of a rotary. The sheet metal gets pretty warm with this process (hot actually) and has no bad effects. Plastic simply melts!

BTW: I put the finished pictures on another thread. They came out stunning!

Toto
 
Here's a pic of the wet sanding 3000 kit. As you can see, I just started on this Gray Bimmer's headlights and bumper. Used a quick detailer as a lube and lightly scuffed the front area shown.

3Mwetsandingkit.jpg


The area now has a dull, flat appearance which will be compounded and polished with the Festool Rotex because the area is too complex for the DeWalt rotary.

Toto
 
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