BMW E30 M3 Bare Frame Respray - Ceramic Coating Advice Needed

[BlueBavarian]

Hey guys!

I'm a long time customer/reader but this is my first post. I've been working on an E30 M3 restoration for about 2.5 years. The car was initially "good from afar, but far from good" but had great bones. No rust (one surface spot on cowl was about half a dime size, sanded off easily), no wrecks/damage, no modifications, roll cages, etc.

The restoration grew from a casual rolling resto to a full blown bare frame teardown and rebuild. This thing will look better than new when done. I can do a lot myself, but paint and body was beyond my range, so I sent the body to Magnum Collision in Marietta (I'm in Atlanta) in February and just got it back.

Here's the progression...

Bought...

Stripped (all DIY)...

Worked (they didn't use as much filler as it looks like here, there were still weeks of sanding left)...

Primed...

Painted...

Polished and Home...

So...

Anyways. That's the last 2 or so years in a flash.

Now. I want to protect the hell out of this paint and do so before reassembly. Makes the most sense to me. What would you guys do? I'm very interested in a ceramic paint coating. I've seen Opti-Coat, Finest, CP, and others discussed here. If you had just gone through all this, what would you be doing to protect it?

Thanks!! If you're interested in my full build thread, here it is: 2.5 Years In... M3 Build Thread...PAINT COMPLETE! - R3VLimited Forums


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[BlueBavarian]

Mods if you think this thread is better to be in Detailing 101 I'm happy to re-post or have it moved, didnt want to cross post it myself. Over 100 views and no comments I'm thinking i might have misplaced it. Thanks!

 

[spazzz]

WOW, I'm impressed.

If it was mine I wouldn't want anyone touching it. I would polish and coat with Gloss Coat. Win

 

[WillSports3]

I think Cquartz UK will give you the best look for it and then top it with Pinnacle Black Label Synergy to give it that amazing wet depth.

 

[Just02896]

To be completely honest, I would wait until the car has been re-assembled before applying a coating. Reason being that no matter how careful you are during the re-assembly process, you will more than likely need to re-polish a spot or two, if not the entire car, afterwards which would require touching up of the coating if it had been applied beforehand.

 

[antti@561detailing]

I would use Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light...one of the easiest prosumer products, and also longest lasting, up to 5 years.
I have tested bunch of coatings, Csl is by far my favorite, I tested 5 or 5 different coatings on my E46 Wagon, not happy with any of them.
My E53 X5 takes a bunch of abuse, daily driven, outside daily in Florida. And after almost a 12 months it's still strong.

Nice build btw. These cars are so insanly expensive nowadays. We sold one about 10 years ago for 3500$ guy still owns it...and we want it back lol...

 

[WillSports3]

Yes, wait until re-assembly. That way you can have a finished product to go over again with a light finishing polish and then coat to really let it shine. Other wise, you'll get too much marring all around that you'd have to repolish and re-coat anyways.

 

[Mike lambert]

I would coat the areas covered by any trim, bumpers, etc. do the rest when you've done all the test driving and you are completely done. You want the best on that red , have someone do Modesta on it. Expensive but I swear nothing looks like it. Very nicely done restoration!

 

[CarolinasFinestDetailing]

Personally, I would coat what can't be touched after reassembly. Any good ceramic coating will do. My personal recommendation would be a few coats of CQuartz UK or Classic.

Once assembly is done, and paint properly cured, republish spots that may have been affected after assembly and apply a ceramic coating. Now...there are great options out there both over the counter and professional. Obviously I would recommend CQuartz Finest or Opti Coat Pro+.

Now here is the kicker....proper wash and drying technique are going to be your main concern in protecting your investment.

 

[BlueBavarian]

Thanks for the advice guys. I do think I'll wait to do the main panels.

On hidden areas, particularly the engine bay, are there any issues with ceramic coatings and high temps? I'm thinking the painted areas near the exhaust manifold, etc. I guess it's better than unprotected paint but I just don't want anything yellowing or otherwise defecting over time.

I'm very cautious on washing. Two buckets, grit guards, Wolfgang Autobathe, Wookie fist for upper and a different mitt for lower. That said, I'll need to upgrade some things before I wash this car for the first time. Maybe a foam gun

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[antti@561detailing]

Thanks for the advice guys. I do think I'll wait to do the main panels.

On hidden areas, particularly the engine bay, are there any issues with ceramic coatings and high temps? I'm thinking the painted areas near the exhaust manifold, etc. I guess it's better than unprotected paint but I just don't want anything yellowing or otherwise defecting over time.

I'm very cautious on washing. Two buckets, grit guards, Wolfgang Autobathe, Wookie fist for upper and a different mitt for lower. That said, I'll need to upgrade some things before I wash this car for the first time. Maybe a foam gun

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[TD]Unlike mainstream wax and organic polymer coatings, Serum and Serum Light can resist much higher and lower temperatures. They resist temperatures as low as -40o to as high as +250o C.
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[LEDetailing]

I'm excited for you, this is awesome. I'd rather spend $30-50k restoring your car than buying $50k new Bimmer. As I get older I appreciate older cars more than the new ones. You are getting the best of both

Don't forget to coat the frame. Keep us up to date on your progress. Thanks again for posting.

 

[BlueBavarian]

Thanks guys. I spoke with a local detailer my body shop recommended and think I've got a plan of attack down. DIY coating on the hidden parts of the paint trans tunnel, inner windows, trunk floor, etc. with GTech CSL, then a pro coating with GTech CS when the rebuild is finished.

I've seen some nightmares about amateurs using GTech CS (having to sand to get off spots left by excess once dried, etc.). Is this as much of a concern with CSL?