Brand New Car, lightly swirled, n00b detailer... Confused!!

torque1989

torque1989

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Hi Mike! Firstly thanx for accepting me in the forum amongst you all ultimate detailers.
I'm Sahil from Punjab, India where detailing is... "Detail-What?? lol hah! Dude, I'm happy with the Formula 1 Wax we get here. Gives me ample of shine"
So, we don't have availability of 99.9% of the products you people use.

I recently bought a brand new Honda City 1.5 i-VTEC Color Bold Beige in January 2011. I've been able to keep the paint swirl free by rarely washing, california duster and using Turtle Super Hard Shell Wax and Collinite's 845. Thanx to a friend who is also on the forum "sohail99".

Now, My car is very lightly swirled. I would be very happy if you guide me through the procedure and products I need to use to get a glass like paint finish. I searched the local market and found some polishers branded Kobalt(Indian) and Yuca (Chinese) for around US $68. Couldn't understand if they DA or not. Bosch and DeWalt are wayyy out of my budget. I've a friend coming from the US and i'll be ordering a few products through him from your Autogeek shop. Now mike, please guide what products I should use to get a glass like finish. Let me tell you I'm a student and on a very very strict budget so Please guide accordingly. Most MOTHERS' products are also available here but not Meguiar's. The lesser products, the better. Also, guide for the pads to be used. Thanx a ton. Attached are a few pics of my Honda.

@Mike, the polishers I'm talking bout are very similar to this one. Please tell if it's suitable or not.
Silverline Silverstorm® 129659 180mm Sander Polisher: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
 
82 views and not a single reply! Cmmon guys, I need help here!
 
Hello torque,
First, Welcome to the forum! You have come across a great site where you can learn so much from some very knowledgable detailers. I've been doing professional detailing now for over a year and the reputation of the quality work is spreading like wildfire around here.

I would think the reason there hasn't been much of a response to you posting is that there probably isn't many who know what the products you have available in India and therefore, it would be difficult to give much guidance. I believe you can order what you need from AG and that they will ship to India.

It sounds like to me you have a very well kept can and doesn't really need much corrections. With that being the case, I would suggest keeping things simple. A very good product you can use as a single step that help remove minor scratches and imperfections is Klasse AIO followed up with a good Sealer and then a quality Wax. Be sure to "CLAY" your car prior to using any buffer on the paint to help eliminate the possibility of inducing more scratches. You can check out the "How To" videos on AG website to some great tips on how to use the products.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

Pristine Detailing
Southern Oregon
 
Thanx for the reply Midnight. Actually, The Car is new that is why it has very very few swirls. I'd go with your advice for using Klasse AIO but there is a slight problem, the polisher I'm getting is basically a Makita 9227C Circular Polisher. Being a n00b, shall I buy it bcoz a Dual Action polisher ain't available here.

Makita 9227C Circular Polisher 8.5 inch Pad Kit
 
torque1989 said:
Thanx for the reply Midnight. Actually, The Car is new that is why it has very very few swirls. I'd go with your advice for using Klasse AIO but there is a slight problem, the polisher I'm getting is basically a Makita 9227C Circular Polisher. Being a n00b, shall I buy it bcoz a Dual Action polisher ain't available here.

Makita 9227C Circular Polisher 8.5 inch Pad Kit
Click to expand...

The Makita is a nice polisher and we use it on cars that require EXTENSIVE PAINT CORRECTIONS. If your car has only mild/micro scratches, you may want to apply the AIO by hand using a quality applicator. It will require a bit more effort, but with you not being comfortable using the rotory yet, it probably isn't worth the risk of doing perminent damage to your car. It only takes a couple of seconds to burn the finish on your car with the Makita. If you do decide to use the Makita, use a quality FOAM PAD instead of the wool pad. There is less of a chance in damaging your finish, but the risk would still be there. Remember to do a complete IPA wipe down following the AIO, then apply a quality sealant, followed by a good wax. I'm sure you'll be quite happy with the results. Good Luck

Pristine Detailing
Southern Oregan
 
hey midnight,
is the followimg sequence okay?

Wash
Clay
Klasse AIO
blackfire or optiseal sealant
Collinite 845

Is compounding necessary after claying or can be skipped?
 
Please reply to my question!

is the following sequence okay?

Wash
Meg's Clay
Klasse AIO
blackfire or optiseal sealant
Collinite 845

Also, Is compounding necessary after claying or can be skipped?
 
That California Duster may be part of the problem. They pick up particles and slide them around on your paint without lube. You would be better off with a quick detailer or waterless wash.

Compounding is for heavy correction. You should not need to compound a new car.

If your friend is bringing you supplies from AMerica, have him bring a DA polisher such as the Griots Garage, Flex or PC. I am not sure which ones are compatible with India's electrical system. Dual action will be a lot easier to learn and a lot safer. I would consider Rotary an advanced technique.

Do a lot of research on here to figure out which pads and polishes you want to use.

Good Luck.
 
The procedure you have wrote out will work just fine. The Makita is a great tool. If you do use it, just be careful. That new paint is probably very thin. Using an AIO product like the Klasse on a white foam polishing pad should five you good results.
 
5.4 Shelby said:
Compounding is for heavy correction. You should not need to compound a new car.

If your friend is bringing you supplies from AMerica, have him bring a DA polisher such as the Griots Garage, Flex or PC. I am not sure which ones are compatible with India's electrical system. Dual action will be a lot easier to learn and a lot safer. I would consider Rotary an advanced technique.
Click to expand...

Since my car has grown light swirls, I was thinking of using Meg's Ultimate Compound (Hand application). What do you say? Also, a DA is way outta my budget! The American DA won't work bcoz Indian system is 220v and the basic DeWalt DA available here costs somewhere around $270 so the DA option is closed!

M.P. Cobra Fan said:
The procedure you have wrote out will work just fine. The Makita is a great tool. If you do use it, just be careful. That new paint is probably very thin. Using an AIO product like the Klasse on a white foam polishing pad should five you good results.
Click to expand...
Could you tell me the curing time for Klasse AIO. Would multiple layers of Klasse AIO give better effect? And also the curing time between multiple layers of BlackFire Wetdiamond?
 
Welcome to the Forum,
I think your sequence is a good one, Klasse AIO can simplify and adequately meet your requirements. You have a nice car, and the color will stand up well over time, and using a all-in-one with a inexpensive but quality buffer (Griot's Garage, PC, or Meguire's) will keep your car looking fine. You already have the most important asset you'll need, and that's your desire to learn and apply that knowledge to detailing your car. Don't stop geekin', my friend.
 
hey guys, could you guide me to the time interval between each step? or curing time i must say

Step 1: Wash
Immediate
Step 2: Clay
Immediate
Step 3: Wash
Immediate
Step 4: Klasse AIO
24 hours?
Step 5: BlackFire WetDiamond Sealant
24 hours?
Step 6: Collinite 845
24 hours?
Step 7:Eagle1 NanoWax as high gloss QuickDetailer

If I lay down multiple layers of blackfire wetdiamond, how mych curing time between each layer?
Also, does Optimum no rinse works as a good clay lube?
 
ONR is fine for clay lube. I believe the dilution ratio for clay lube is on the bottle.

I would wait 8-12 hours before each layer..and maybe even 24 just to be safe.
 
torque1989 said:
hey guys, could you guide me to the time interval between each step? or curing time i must say

Step 1: Wash
Immediate
Step 2: Clay
Immediate
Step 3: Wash
Immediate
Step 4: Klasse AIO
24 hours?
Step 5: BlackFire WetDiamond Sealant
24 hours?
Step 6: Collinite 845
24 hours?
Step 7:Eagle1 NanoWax as high gloss QuickDetailer

If I lay down multiple layers of blackfire wetdiamond, how mych curing time between each layer?
Also, does Optimum no rinse works as a good clay lube?
Click to expand...

and be sure that the car is dust free in between every layer. i dont know if thats just my OCD, but i like to have a clean clean car before applying every layer of protective-ness.

and IMHO, i would just end at the Collinite. I use it and i love the look of it as opposed to a high glossy sealant.
 
torque1989 said:
82 views and not a single reply! Cmmon guys, I need help here!
Click to expand...

Wow! You posted this on Friday and I'm just now finding it... and I was just about to log-off for the night and push away from the keyboard...

I've been at work, just busy with another project, so I'm not very active on the forum lately...


torque1989 said:
I searched the local market and found some polishers branded Kobalt(Indian) and Yuca (Chinese) for around US $68. Couldn't understand if they DA or not.
Click to expand...

These might help, they show and explain the different types of drive mechanisms...

Part 1 - How To Pick the Right Car Polisher for your Detail Project​

[video=youtube_share;LtrdTvnZX3I]- Part 1 - How To Pick the Right Car Polisher for your Detail Project[/video]



Part 2 - How To Pick the Right Car Polisher for your Detail Project​

[video=youtube_share;2k92m5cJxCk]- Part 2 - How To Pick the Right Car Polisher for your Detail Project[/video]



torque1989 said:
@Mike, the polishers I'm talking bout are very similar to this one. Please tell if it's suitable or not.
Silverline Silverstorm® 129659 180mm Sander Polisher: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Click to expand...

[/quote]


Like stated, that's a rotary buffer, polishing down 100% swirl free using only a rotary buffer is great discussion... it's easier to ensure a 100% swirl free finish by finishing out with a DA style polisher but cost and availability in your countries electrical current is sometimes an issue...

If you want to use only a rotary buffer I would get one that has a lower RPM than 1000 RPM for your final passes, you'll also need some very soft foam pads and a super fine finishing polish like the Menzerna PO85RD

I really like the Flex PE14 or the Makita 9227 as they both dial down to 600 RPM at the trigger and the Flex will run at 400 RPM by operating the trigger with only your finger.

The only way you'll know if you finish down 100% swirl or hologram free using only a rotary buffer is to chemically strip the paint and move the car into bright, overhead sun. Of course chemically stripping what appears to be flawless paint risks marring the paint in the process, thus undoing your hard work. I don't think most people chemically strip and inspect, (at least I don't see that conversation or pictures or videos of it), they just move on to the waxing step or the paint sealant step, or now days, the coating step.


:)
 
torque1989 said:
Since my car has grown light swirls, I was thinking of using Meg's Ultimate Compound (Hand application). What do you say? [
Click to expand...

UC followed by something less aggressive can work, it actually takes more skill to get show car results by hand than it does by machine.


torque1989 said:
Also, a DA is way outta my budget! The American DA won't work bcoz Indian system is 220v and the basic DeWalt DA available here costs somewhere around $270 so the DA option is closed!
Click to expand...

Yeah, if you're just taking care of your own car then maybe work by hand... you can get great results by hand but for most people part of the "great" results is topping and masking with a good wax.

See these articles...

Removing Scratches By Hand

How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand


:)
 
hey mike, thanx a ton for replying!
I've dropped the idea of a rotary buffer and would work on using my hands and meg's clay, klasse AIO and blackfire (sealant).

So, right now, I gotta detail only with whatever I have but I'll be coming to the US maybe in december and I'm definitely gonna pay a visit to AutoGeek headquarters and get loads of stuff and a DA too!

Guys, I was curious about a question regarding Meg's claybar.
It seems so small that i wonder if it'll be able to do whole of my car?

Can windshield, side and rear glasses be clayed too?

Since my car is relatively new, will Meg's UC would help in any way??

Does Klasse AIO needs to be worked in like you work in any polish with a DA? Same question for Blackfire Wetdiamond?

Some pics of my ride:

Water beeding despite 2 offroading trips. thanx to collinite 845


Just washed
 
Last edited:
In order to eliminate swirls... can I use Meg's SwirlX in the following sequence?

Clay
Meg's SwirlX by hand
Klasse AIO
BFWD

I'm asking about the sequence because I doubt after using SwirlX, Klasse would still bond to the paint?
 
maximus20895 said:
ONR is fine for clay lube. I believe the dilution ratio for clay lube is on the bottle.

I would wait 8-12 hours before each layer..and maybe even 24 just to be safe.
Click to expand...

Its 2oz ONR for 1 gallon of water or 1/2oz ONR to 32oz of water...but I found its lubricity to be IMO crappy. So I went 1oz for 32oz of water.

Being in India is going to make suggesting on what you should do a lot harder since most of the stuff we can get here for relatively cheap would be insane in the price range for you. If this is a brand new car with light swirls another product you might wanna look into is a wax that can hide a few imperfections or a very very light cutting product.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound + Ultimate Polisher are consumer friendly hand compounding/polishing system that I would look into since a machine is out of the question for you. About that wax Poorboy's Natty Blue is supposed to hide imperfections and at the same time give your car a nice wax job :xyxthumbs:

torque1989 said:
In order to eliminate swirls... can I use Meg's SwirlX in the following sequence?

Clay
Meg's SwirlX by hand
Klasse AIO
BFWD

I'm asking about the sequence because I doubt after using SwirlX, Klasse would still bond to the paint?
Click to expand...

Wash
Clay
SwirlX panel by panel with IPA wipe down after each panel or wash again
KAIO
BFWD

Or skip the KAIO go BFWD and top it with BFMS
 
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