Brand New Ford Headlamp Assemblies - to coat or not to coat

[tattooman]

I just replace the headlamp assemblies on my F150, Genuine Ford, straight from a Ford Dealer in my area. I kept up my old assemblies for a long time, polishing them out once a year or more, but they got to the point where I couldn't help them anymore, they were pretty shot, inside and out. The truck is a 2010 and they were the originals, and this daily driver and hauler has spent its entire life outdoors in every weather condition. The new units are very sharp to say the least, and really help clean up the old truck.

But here's my question: Is it better to just leave them as is, since they probably already have a coating on them from the factory, or should I go ahead and put some kind of coating on these brand new units ?

Obviously I would not use a headlight polish, since polishes are designed to remove a layer of oxidation, and polishing brand new units would degrade brand new lenses plastic unnecessarily. So, is there anything I could apply to this brand new plastic that would not degrade it in any way ? Maybe a pure coating without any polishing ingredients, or any kind of petroleum based ingredient that might react negatively with the plastic ?

So far I've thought of Renaissance Wax, or maybe Meguiars Keep Clear Headlight Coating, though I've never used that Meguiars product.

Or is the factory coating good enough for some good length of time, and nothing I could put on it would help it.

What do you guys think.

 

[Tasmania]

Mckee's 37 headlight protectant spray. The pink stuff

 

[Eldorado2k]

Clear PPF. [you can also choose tinted colored PPF] That’s the only option if you want true UV protection. Lamin X sells pre cut custom sets to fit just about any vehicle. There’s other brands as well.

Ceramic coating won’t help one bit. Waxes & sealants can only do so much. Spraying clearcoat will ruin the look of your brand new headlights + it’s not even meant to be applied to clear plastic.

 

[Desertnate]

Clear PPF. [you can also choose tinted colored PPF] That’s the only option if you want true UV protection. Lamin X sells pre cut custom sets to fit just about any vehicle. There’s other brands as well.

This would be my vote if you want the max level of protection, though I would not recommend one with a tint.

Hitting the lenses with a coating won't hurt, but I too doubt it will keep them from yellowing or hazing after a decade or two. I will typically coat my headlights and taillights with the same ceramic coating I use on the paint, but I don't touch those lenses with anything abrasive. I do it more to help them stay clean more than any form of UV protection.

 

[tattooman]

This would be my vote if you want the max level of protection, though I would not recommend one with a tint.

Hitting the lenses with a coating won't hurt, but I too doubt it will keep them from yellowing or hazing after a decade or two. I will typically coat my headlights and taillights with the same ceramic coating I use on the paint, but I don't touch those lenses with anything abrasive. I do it more to help them stay clean more than any form of UV protection.

That makes a LOT of sense, about keeping the surface clean, clean surfaces attract less dirt than dirty surfaces, because I'm guessing a clean surface is less attractive/reactive to road film, micro abrasives, bird droppings, etc. Great point. As strong as summertime sunlight is, I doubt anything really survives UV rays over time. I've never seen anything that does, seems everything on earth degrades under UV.

 

[Eldorado2k]

That makes a LOT of sense, about keeping the surface clean, clean surfaces attract less dirt than dirty surfaces, because I'm guessing a clean surface is less attractive/reactive to road film, micro abrasives, bird droppings, etc. Great point. As strong as summertime sunlight is, I doubt anything really survives UV rays over time. I've never seen anything that does, seems everything on earth degrades under UV.

I’m pretty sure some PPF films are guaranteed up to 10yrs. against UV degradation.

 

[tattooman]

Has anyone ever used Renwax on headlight lenses ? I use it for other stuff but never thought about Renwax for this. My thinking is if it's truly non-reactive for this type of surface, then maybe it could help protect the new surface from attracting dirt. Being a randomly linked crystalline polymer with some flexiblity, I thought maybe it would be worth a try. If museums use Renwax for practically anything, my guess is it wouldn't react to the plastic, assuming it would still stick and help prevent dirt from sticking.

 

[tattooman]

I’m pretty sure some PPF films are guaranteed up to 10yrs. against UV degradation.

How do these films look after a few years on the headlamps of daily drivers, and do they really truly delay UV degredation in a significant way. I don't know anything that stands up to UV over time. If not so much UV than micro impact resistance, I could understand that easier.

 

[Eldorado2k]

How do these films look after a few years on the headlamps of daily drivers, and do they really truly delay UV degredation in a significant way. I don't know anything that stands up to UV over time. If not so much UV than micro impact resistance, I could understand that easier.

Well, sunglasses last and protect from UV forever. So there’s 1 example.

I just checked and Lamin-X has a 5yr. warranty against turning yellow.

 

[Tasmania]

Don't over think it, TM just put a sealant that is polycarbonate safe on every month.

 

[evo77]

The most important factor in a headlamp’s performance is ensuring its lens retains full transparency for as long as possible. This maximizes light transmission to the road. Genuine OEM headlamp lenses come with a factory-applied hard coat designed to last three to five years, depending on various factors such as maintenance, driving frequency, and sun exposure—particularly in hot climate regions.

For maintenance, avoid harsh chemicals (APCs, bug removers or anything high alkaline/high acidic) and heavy abrasion (course sponges and towels or any unnecessary rubbing) as both can degrade the hard coat and compromise its integrity. Instead, wash the lenses using only pH-neutral soaps and soft wash media. Polishing the lens regularly is a major mistake—the hard coat is relatively thin (8–18 microns), much thinner than a car’s clear coat paint (30–50 microns).

Waxes and sealants—whether in paste, liquid, or spray form—are merely surface films. While they can improve the washing experience by making the lens easier to clean, they provide zero protection against everyday driving wear and UV exposure. Applying them won’t cause harm, but it also won’t offer true protection for the hard coat and extend its life.

Similarly, ceramic coatings are not a viable long-term solution for headlamp protection. While they do create a harder shell, they are not designed to withstand high-speed impact from airborne sand and debris over extended periods. With a thickness of just 0.5–1.5 microns, ceramic coatings are inherently vulnerable to wear. Again, these are great for ease of washing but not to impacts and abrasion.

Applying clear PPF may seem like the most logical choice due to its durability against wear and abrasion—far surpassing that of waxes, sealants, and coatings. However, the issue lies in its optical clarity. While some brands claim to be "optical-grade," there are no legitimate tests to verify this.

When I say tests, I mean photometry tests—proper light measurements ensuring that all regulatory beam test points remain in compliance. Beyond any initial optical losses that new film may introduce, how much further degradation occurs as it ages? The film will inevitably degrade—this is a fact—but the exact extent of that degradation and its impact to light transmittance remains unknown.

This is why, if you are going to go with clear PPF, its best you replace the film every few years.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Polishing the lens regularly is a major mistake—the hard coat is relatively thin (8–18 microns), much thinner than a car’s clear coat paint (30–50 microns).

That can't be right that it's thinner than clearcoat--it seems much thicker.

 

[Tasmania]

The most important factor in a headlamp’s performance is ensuring its lens retains full transparency for as long as possible. This maximizes light transmission to the road. Genuine OEM headlamp lenses come with a factory-applied hard coat designed to last three to five years, depending on various factors such as maintenance, driving frequency, and sun exposure—particularly in hot climate regions.

For maintenance, avoid harsh chemicals (APCs, bug removers or anything high alkaline/high acidic) and heavy abrasion (course sponges and towels or any unnecessary rubbing) as both can degrade the hard coat and compromise its integrity. Instead, wash the lenses using only pH-neutral soaps and soft wash media. Polishing the lens regularly is a major mistake—the hard coat is relatively thin (8–18 microns), much thinner than a car’s clear coat paint (30–50 microns).

Waxes and sealants—whether in paste, liquid, or spray form—are merely surface films. While they can improve the washing experience by making the lens easier to clean, they provide zero protection against everyday driving wear and UV exposure. Applying them won’t cause harm, but it also won’t offer true protection for the hard coat and extend its life.

Similarly, ceramic coatings are not a viable long-term solution for headlamp protection. While they do create a harder shell, they are not designed to withstand high-speed impact from airborne sand and debris over extended periods. With a thickness of just 0.5–1.5 microns, ceramic coatings are inherently vulnerable to wear. Again, these are great for ease of washing but not to impacts and abrasion.

Applying clear PPF may seem like the most logical choice due to its durability against wear and abrasion—far surpassing that of waxes, sealants, and coatings. However, the issue lies in its optical clarity. While some brands claim to be "optical-grade," there are no legitimate tests to verify this.

When I say tests, I mean photometry tests—proper light measurements ensuring that all regulatory beam test points remain in compliance. Beyond any initial optical losses that new film may introduce, how much further degradation occurs as it ages? The film will inevitably degrade—this is a fact—but the exact extent of that degradation and its impact to light transmittance remains unknown.

This is why, if you are going to go with clear PPF, its best you replace the film every few years.

Been using Mckee's 37 headlight protection for 8 years and the headlights look brand new, They have headlights cover's to stop stone chips.

 

[evo77]

That can't be right that it's thinner than clearcoat--it seems much thicker.

It's right. The thickness variance depends on the lamp supplier and how its applied with their machines.

See HERE and HERE for specs from a few hard coat manufacturers.

 

[evo77]

Been using Mckee's 37 headlight protection for 8 years and the headlights look brand new,

That product is merely a film, so it remains vulnerable to abrasion (wiping) as well as impacts from sand and debris. I'm glad to hear that it's working for you, but results will likely vary significantly on the other end of the spectrum—particularly for a vehicle driven 75 miles a day on the highway, five days a week, and parked outside in the sun 24-7.

They have headlights cover's to stop stone chips.

You mean those tinted covers that were all the rage in the 80s and 90s? Yeah, they’re not legal—even the clear ones (which are more rare). Plus, they’re not made for most modern vehicles anymore.

These covers compromise the lamp’s safety performance by blocking a significant portion of light. Unlike headlamps, they lack the necessary hard coating, meaning that while they protect the headlamp underneath, they are vulnerable to deterioration, which reduces light output.

PPF film has essentially replaced the need for these covers.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

That can't be right that it's thinner than clearcoat--it seems much thicker.

It's right. The thickness variance depends on the lamp supplier and how its applied with their machines.

See HERE and HERE for specs from a few hard coat manufacturers.

Good grief, no wonder that stuff doesn't even last as long as the CC on the paint.