Brand New Truck; Detailing prodecures

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carlg

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Hi everyone.
I'm sure this question has been asked a million times before but I figured instead of using the search feature of the website I would enjoy some good conversation with people like you!

I just got a brand new 2021 truck last week. It is white.

The paint seems like it needs no corrections as it is new. I don't see any swirl marks, etc.

I consider myself to be a top end beginner level maybe almost an intermediate level weekend warrior type of detailer. As far as tools, I own the Porter Cable DA polisher that everyone talks about on this website.

I have never did a paint coating or ceramic coating before. I'm thinking I may want to try one, but thought I'd get some recommendations from here.

So what are my 1st detailing steps for this new vehicle? I'm thinking a good wash and then a wax or a coating.

If I decide to go with my first ceramic coating ever, which one would you think is good for a 1st timer?

This truck is somewhat a daily driver, but I work from home, so I really don't go anywhere. The truck is stored outdoors.

Thanks!!
 
Congrats on the new truck !!!!

As far as a coating that is easy to apply.... so many choices here.

CarPro CQUK
BlackFire PRO
Pinnacle Black Label
GYEON Q2 Mohs

Spray on Coating.... 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating, GYEON Q2 CanCoat


Applying the coating is generally straight forward... its the prep that would determine your success.
 
Congrats on the new truck! im still holdin on to my 07 classic lol.

Im sure more seasoned folks will have better input, but me personally i would hit it with some iron remover(as long as truck is not very dirty to start with). then wash, shouldn't need to clay since its new but baggy test should tell ya (just for peace of mind). prep wipe, hit it with ceramic coating. I will coat every single future vehicle I own. It is defiantly worth it.

As far as brand, I cant say due only have done it twice and both times were bought from a local professional detail company. I try to support local companies if the products are good of course.

Spray on sio2 sealants are nice and next best thing to ceramic coatings IMO, but just don't have the longevity like coatings do.

Side note, dont know where ya live but if truck will ever see winter/road salt, i would undercoat it with fluid film.

Hope this helps ya:xyxthumbs:
 
I ceramic coated my F150 one year ago and still going strong. Keep in mind that a truck takes 2x as long to prep and coat. The panels , the hood , the bed are definitely massive compared to my wife’ s IS 350. I used Wolfgang Profi coating, fairly easy to use. I let mine cure overnight in the garage, so hopefully you can keep it covered overnight.
 
Markymapo said:
I ceramic coated my F150 one year ago and still going strong. Keep in mind that a truck takes 2x as long to prep and coat. The panels , the hood , the bed are definitely massive compared to my wife’ s IS 350. I used Wolfgang Profi coating, fairly easy to use. I let mine cure overnight in the garage, so hopefully you can keep it covered overnight.
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Thanks. I should have you come over and help, LOL.

I'm literally 3 miles away from you.
 
We will have to meet up (outside) once the weather breaks and have a chat. I actually have to coat my daughters SUV as soon as things warm up ( my senior citizen shoulders are aching just thinking about it, but less so than working on my Cobalt bow rider)
 
I never heard of fluid film before and I live in Michigan. Can you explain in greater detail including process, expected cost for an average size car, who might install it etc? Thanks
 
Sure thing. Fluid film is a brand,there are others out there but this is the best and cheapest imo. It is made of lanolin oil. It won't drip anywhere like one might think, when hearing word oil lol. But it works great because it never actually hardens. Some other undercoatings will harden overtime and when cracks in the undercoating occurs, salt/water will get in the cracks and the rusting begins.

Fluid film is around $30ish a gallon. A gallon will do a half ton pickup no problem, and thats when using it generiously. Look online for an undercoating gun. Must use that type, don't try a paint gun. Will need compressed air. I paid $30 for my gun, but you can buy ones for upwards of $90 or more that come with different hose lengths to better get in crevasses.

Once ya have that, then prep under vehicle by a good hosing, get in the fender wells,pull the taillights and get it in the bedsides, cab corners, frame. Make sure excess salt and debris is gone. Then after it drys spray undercoating pretty much everywhere i just mention to clean except on motor, transmission, exhaust brakes and rotors.

There are shops that do it but they want hundreds of dollars. Much cheaper to do it at home if you have the means to. Plus ya know its done good. Hope that help ya bud

I can try and find you a link or two if you would like.
 
Well, I've yet to encounter a new car that doesn't benefit from being polished. I've seen Aston Martins come with factory wrapping still on that needed it. You said it's white and if you haven't done a ton of paint correction you may not know all the tricks you need to do to find imperfections in white paint. My brother has taken the white TSX I gave him through brush car washes over the last 2 years and I can't see swirls on it very easily unless I'm parked in a Walmart at night and get a light source from far away like a tall light pole. White just sucks if you're actually trying to show that you did a lot of work polishing it. You can't monitor your progress as easily and it doesn't get deep reflections except in specific lighting. My suggestion would be to drive it at night and park in a parking lot like I described with a light source that's high up. There's a few posts on here if you search that talk about getting your light angled and looking at the paint from an angle to see it too, but I find that's something you gotta learn where as anyone can drive to Walmart at night.
Anyway, if you don't want to see the imperfections that may actually be there (and I think that's reasonable), I'd still highly suggest polishing it once over with a polishing pad (i.e. LC white or an equivalent) and a low abrasive polish. Best option is Meguiar's Ultimate Polish because you can get it locally, it's cheap, it's easy to work with, and it's low dust. Otherwise, use whatever else you have that's similar. By doing this, you'll be removing marring on the paint after claying the car. You have to clay the car before you coat and deconning white paint is probably the biggest thing you can do to improve white paint. Unfortunately, claying the car marrs the paint and there's no way around it.

In terms of coatings, there's a ton out there and I really don't think any of our suggestions will actually make a huge difference because of how good everything is now. I'm personally going to have a hard time using anything that's not CQuartz because it's always lasted at least 2.5 years and I think it looks great. Optimum's coatings are super easy to use but I hate the company almost as much as I hate Chemical Guys. Everything else everyone listed is good too.
 
conman1395 said:
Well, I've yet to encounter a new car that doesn't benefit from being polished. I've seen Aston Martins come with factory wrapping still on that needed it. You said it's white and if you haven't done a ton of paint correction you may not know all the tricks you need to do to find imperfections in white paint. My brother has taken the white TSX I gave him through brush car washes over the last 2 years and I can't see swirls on it very easily unless I'm parked in a Walmart at night and get a light source from far away like a tall light pole. White just sucks if you're actually trying to show that you did a lot of work polishing it. You can't monitor your progress as easily and it doesn't get deep reflections except in specific lighting. My suggestion would be to drive it at night and park in a parking lot like I described with a light source that's high up. There's a few posts on here if you search that talk about getting your light angled and looking at the paint from an angle to see it too, but I find that's something you gotta learn where as anyone can drive to Walmart at night.
Anyway, if you don't want to see the imperfections that may actually be there (and I think that's reasonable), I'd still highly suggest polishing it once over with a polishing pad (i.e. LC white or an equivalent) and a low abrasive polish. Best option is Meguiar's Ultimate Polish because you can get it locally, it's cheap, it's easy to work with, and it's low dust. Otherwise, use whatever else you have that's similar. By doing this, you'll be removing marring on the paint after claying the car. You have to clay the car before you coat and deconning white paint is probably the biggest thing you can do to improve white paint. Unfortunately, claying the car marrs the paint and there's no way around it.

In terms of coatings, there's a ton out there and I really don't think any of our suggestions will actually make a huge difference because of how good everything is now. I'm personally going to have a hard time using anything that's not CQuartz because it's always lasted at least 2.5 years and I think it looks great. Optimum's coatings are super easy to use but I hate the company almost as much as I hate Chemical Guys. Everything else everyone listed is good too.
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Thanks for the great answer.

I actually have some Ultra Polish laying around from last year. I think I'll use it up. Funny I may also have an LC white pad in the garage too!
 
Yeah agree with the light polish to get the paint gleaming and let the coating bond better.

I’ve used Cquartz UK 3.0. I’ve used several coating lights and the question between a coating and coating light depends on how often you want to polish.

Yearly I’d recommend a coating lite. Anything lighter go ahead and coat it.

Basic instructions and products I like

Rinse (Pressure washer)
Iron remover. (Iron X)

Rinse

Wash ( Alkaline soap, Mckee’s coating prep soap but any strip wash should do)

Clay if needed (Griots synthetic clay, Pinnacle ultra fine clay)

Polish (CP essence)

Paint prep spray (CP Eraser, Gyeon Prep)

Coat it.

What kind of truck?

If big alot of the guys around here like a long throw DA polisher as it will cover alot more real estate. If thinking about it look into Griots BOSS long throw.

They come in 21 and 15mm throws. I believe your PC is 8mm in comparison.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
carlg said:
I just got a brand new 2021 truck last week. It is white.

The paint seems like it needs no corrections as it is new. I don't see any swirl marks, etc.
Click to expand...

That's the beauty of white paint. It hides defects well.

carlg said:
I consider myself to be a top end beginner level maybe almost an intermediate level weekend warrior type of detailer. As far as tools, I own the Porter Cable DA polisher that everyone talks about on this website.

I have never did a paint coating or ceramic coating before. I'm thinking I may want to try one, but thought I'd get some recommendations from here.

So what are my 1st detailing steps for this new vehicle? I'm thinking a good wash and then a wax or a coating.
Click to expand...

Chemical Decon aka iron remover -> Wash -> Clay if needed -> Polish -> Panel Wipe -> Coat

carlg said:
If I decide to go with my first ceramic coating ever, which one would you think is good for a 1st timer?

This truck is somewhat a daily driver, but I work from home, so I really don't go anywhere. The truck is stored outdoors.
Click to expand...

To get your feet wet my first recommendation is Cquartz Lite. Second would be CanCoat. These are coating lite products to get your feet wet before going the full blown coating route. Both are wipe on wipe off with no need to worry about flash times. IGL Ecocoat Poly is nice to work with. Been playing around with it here and there.

If you want to go straight to a full fledged coating then Cquartz UK 3.0 would get my vote. It is one of the best coatings I have personally used.

From and ease of use stand point you always have the Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light topped with Exo. It is ok but not my favorite. You could also go with Gyeon Syncro but I found it to have lack luster durability with their topper Skin in the kit. I also found Gyeon Mohs a bit lack luster in performance. Optimum Gloss Coat is easy but lacks durability.

I did enjoy Shine Supply Beadlock. I also enjoyed the look and application of 22ple Insanity.
 
The Guz said:
That's the beauty of white paint. It hides defects well.



Chemical Decon aka iron remover -> Wash -> Clay if needed -> Polish -> Panel Wipe -> Coat



To get your feet wet my first recommendation is Cquartz Lite. Second would be CanCoat. These are coating lite products to get your feet wet before going the full blown coating route. Both are wipe on wipe off with no need to worry about flash times. IGL Ecocoat Poly is nice to work with. Been playing around with it here and there.

If you want to go straight to a full fledged coating then Cquartz UK 3.0 would get my vote. It is one of the best coatings I have personally used.

From and ease of use stand point you always have the Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light topped with Exo. It is ok but not my favorite. You could also go with Gyeon Syncro but I found it to have lack luster durability with their topper Skin in the kit. I also found Gyeon Mohs a bit lack luster in performance. Optimum Gloss Coat is easy but lacks durability.

I did enjoy Shine Supply Beadlock. I also enjoyed the look and application of 22ple Insanity.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm reading about this product now. It may be just what I was looking for.
I stalked your profile expecting to see some pictures of that SS, but I didn't see any.

Have a good night!
 
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