Buffer trails on aluminum grrr.

rvx290

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I am trying to clean up some smooth aluminum on the front corners of an enclosed car hauler.
I have removed all the defects and in the shade it looks like chome.... until the sun shines on it and there are terrible buffer trails & I keep trying to go over it with the least aggressive (white) aluminum polishing block and polishing wheel, I am assuming the speed is way too fast on the grinder, I am wondering if I can use my standard products that I would use on paint, such as M205 and a polishing/finishing pad on the rotary? Or do these products not work on aluminum?
 
You need to change tools...

More specifically you need to change the action of the tool...

For the same reason a rotary buffer imparts it's own scratch pattern into paint it will impart it's own scratch pattern into aluminum. You can try using a soft foam polishing or finishing pad with a fine metal polish.

Real popular for machine polishing aluminum are Cyclo Polishers but you should be able to do it with a DA Polisher like a Porter Cable 7424XP or do it by hand. These types of tool oscillate and rotate so they work-out their own swirls.

The SMAT products seem to work pretty well on metals so you can try them... it's basically all about the abrading action of the abrasives. I've used the rotary buffer to remove oxidation and restore the shine to aluminum and then hand polished to remove any swirls using terry cloth and some elbow grease.


Here's some of the best before and after shots I've ever seen and I believe Tim did all of this with just a rotary buffer...

Tim Lingor said:
** Repost from MOL and the original SCG

Hey Everyone,
As many of you know, besides being a detailing fanatic, I am also a fishing maniac! As such, my tools of choice are a fly rod and an aluminum 12' boat. However, since my first love is detailing, having an oxidized aluminum boat sitting on top of a detailed truck, takes away from the overall impression and all of the hard work that went into the truck.
So, I decided to do something about it. After oodles of research, I was left scratching my head on which method would work best to provide the best finish. I decided to tackle the project with:
* Meguiar's All Metal Polish M-2805 (Professional Mirror Glaze Series)
* Meguiar's Wool Buffing Pad W-4000 on a Makita rotary buffer


followed by
* Gold Class All Metal Restorer G-9110
* Meguiar's W-7006 foam Cutting Pad on a Makita rotary buffer


Let me tell you right from the start, this is a messy job!! As you buff, the white polish turns black from the oxidized aluminum and makes everything very messy to say the least. You have been warned!!!!

First, the Meguiar's All Metal Polish is a paste that comes in a 5 oz. Container. Though the container seems small, it is surprising just how far a small amount of this polish will go. To me, the polish smells a little like coconuts, which is a pleasant change from the normal ammonia smelling products I used to use. I used some old towels (do not use good ones as they will be ruined from the black residue; ask me how I know!!! ) I applied a small amount to a 1'x 1' area on the boat, ran the rotary buffer at a much higher than normal speed (advice I received from an aluminum pontoon shop) at around 2000-2200 rpm! I buffed the area until the black residue disappeared. I had to spur the pad with pad spur quite often in order to remove the build up of polish.


The finish from this step was amazing!!! I could actually see my reflection like I was looking into chrome and not an aluminum fishing boat!! Now I was intrigued!! I wanted to see just how bright and shiny I could make the boat.

So, I decided to move on to the next step and use Meguiar's Gold Class All Metal Restorer (a liquid) on a Foam Cutting Pad W-7006. Again, I did a very small area at a time. The GC All Metal Restorer smells very similar to the All Metal Polish but not quite. Because this one is a liquid, I placed a fair amount on the pad, rubbed it around and proceeded to buff at a little lower but still high 1800 rpm. I found the GC All Metal Restorer was streaking a little and required more effort to remove. But once removed, the finish was incredible!! I could see my reflection as if I were looking into high polished chrome!!


Of course I had to now finish the rest of the boat. The painted sides were finished off with some Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze and topped with Meguiar's #20 Polymer Sealant for long lasting protection. By this point I had several neighbors standing there wondering why I was detailing a 'fishing boat'. One commented that the boat was now a hazard for on-coming motorists as they will be blinded from the reflection of the sun in the boat!!


After the full detail, I used my pressure washer to remove any remaining black polish residue from around the rivets etc.

Here is a before and after shots. It is hard believe how good a job the Meguiar's metal polishes did on the aluminum boat. From this experience, I can hardly wait to try them on other pieces of metal!!!
Cheers!
Tim

Before:
4989106_0631__small_.jpg

After:
4989106_0636__small_.jpg


Most recognized brand names of aluminum polish work really well, we care

Metal Polishes on Autogeek.net

Mothers
Wolfgang
Flitz
Wenol
Menzerna
Sonus
Nevr-Dull
P21S
Eco Touch
Rolite
Optimum
Griot's
3M
Meguiar's
Duragloss


:)
 
Thanks for the info, immediately after I submitted my question I switched my pad onto the rotary @ mid speed and noticed a significant improvement, still not perfect but alot better, I have found that autosol is a great abrasive for cutting, but doesnt seem to finish well, Tomorrow I will switch pads and try various products, I will try to do a detailed writeup with pictures on my results if/when I perfect it because I know alot of people like myself that try to get a chrome like finish on aluminum & struggle getting it perfect. & this project in particular is a real challenge because unlike checkerplate, this is a completely smooth surface & very thin aluminum:buffing:
 
Hey guys I have an aluminium boat to buff this weekend. Will my Porter cable and a cutting oad work followed by a polishing stage?? Is there a big difference between using a compound like m105 and a specific paste made for aluminium? Is it worth also wet sanding a little beforehand?
 
I like abralon sanding pads for wet sanding metal. They go up 4000 grit and are great for tough jobs. Alternate between orbital and vibration sanders so your not inducing the same scratch pattern.
I wanted a chrome exhaust but polished my stock one instead. Much more pride in the finished result.
 
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