Buffing Equipment Purchase

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foxden61

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So I am about done wet sanding the fresh paint on this Mustang and am ready to purchase a buffer. I'm thinking I'm going to go with a Dewalt rotary as they can be had for very good prices and its a quality piece. I know rotaries are touchy but if I screw it up I will just paint the panel again..lol and hopefully learn something. This Mustang has a ton edges and corners so I would think 4 or 5.5 inch backing plates. Would you recommend flexible backing plates? Should I use a wool pad for the first cut or an orange foam pad? Is there a preference? Do I need both? After reading a lot of the posts it appears like Megs 105 and 205 is a safe bet Any other suggestions? If I wasn't so damn poor Id buy a couple of everything and a D/A polisher but that's not going to happen... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I also have an old Rambler getting paint next week so would it make sense to purchase a larger backing plate since that car has a lot more large flat surfaces or stick with the 5.5's?

Thanks!
 
I wouldn't go small on teh backing plates. You are increasing the speed with which you are buffing. I use a 7.5 on my rotary. 5.5 on my PCXP.
 
Thanks for the replies so far! The clear was sprayed 48 hours ago and wet sanded last night and today. I went 1200 to knock down the orange peal, then 1500 2000 and will finish with 3000 tomorrow after work. The reduced speed of the larger pad is something I hadn't considered. That's definitely a factor as heat is the enemy. I was thinking that a smaller surface would be more manageable. If I could get 3000 scratches out with a Griots I would definitely consider it.
 
Sounds like your doing a great job!

I'd love to see pictures of your progress.

Either way keep it up!

:props:

Art
 
If you are considering the GG6" dual action you can cut the 3000 sanding down with an orange Lake County Pad with a good compound like M105 followed by a white LC pad with M205 and a good sealant/wax with a blue pad. Time is not your enemy but your friend. Slow and steady will get the job done with excellent results.

A dual action polisher with the right pads and supplies will provide an amazing finish.

Ed
 
foxden61 said:
If I could get 3000 scratches out with a Griots I would definitely consider it.
Click to expand...

Different clear manufactures will differ in the ease of cutting and buffing. A rotary is the way to go if you only have a choice of one. It's nice to have both options. What paint system are you using?
 
Eandras said:
Time is not your enemy but your friend. Slow and steady will get the job done with excellent results.
Click to expand...

If you let certain clears cook out to long during the cure process (like DuPont ChromaClear 7900S, BASF Limco etc.) you'll work twice as hard removing orange peel and the wet sand scratches. It's best to start the cut and buff the very next day. Time is your enemy in that regard.
 
I used Eastwood SS Urethane and Urethane clear on this car. The clear definitely gets more difficult to cut down as the days go by and it hardens. Just finished 3000 grit and its all smooth with a nice dull sheen to it! Purchased a Makita 9227 rotary buffer package from Auto Geek that included a flex 6" backing plate, three wool pads (as well as the two that come with the buffer). and a bottle of Meguiars 100 compound. Hopefully here by the weekend so I can start buffing. I have a noob question. I taped off all the edges, hard body lines and curves while wetsanding as well as taping sections of the panels into work areas. The orange peal that is gone now is really apparent under the masking tape. How should I cut those areas down without sanding or burning through? I might just be overly cautious but after all the damn sanding Id prefer not to have to paint anything else...lol! Thanks again
 
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