Buffing pad changing

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Strat

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I like to use farecla g mop on a rotary polisher and find that after a while things get clogged up. Also I think polish starts to dry up in the pad as a lot of dusting happens.
Wondred if I should be swapping pads during the polishing for a fresh clean one?

If so how often roughly and do you prime it first like a new one?


As always ant advice at all for a novice hugely appreciated
Thanks
 
Are you cleaning on the fly? Running a brush over the face of the pad with the rotary spinning. Could be a little difficult with that style pad. Probably brush with it sitting still, that should help. Yes you also need to be switching to a clean pad. I would say 4 or 5 pads to do a car.

I've never used that style pad so I may be wrong. I'm going by what's pretty standard for foam pads. Maybe someone who actually uses that style will comment.
 
You should change your pads on a fairly frequent basis. I use about 4 - 5 Pads of each step for a normal size car. 6 - 7 pads or more for a large truck like a Ford F150. This is depending on the condition of the vehicle. When you start losing the effectiveness of the product you are using (pad saturation or severe dusting) it is usually a sign to change your pad. I don't waste my time doing on-the-fly-cleaning of your pad. It's much quicker just to replace the pad and start working.
 
I swap to a new pad on every panel, I brush off the pad I'm using Everytime it leaves the paint before it gets more product.

A fresh pad give you the best cut and prolongs pad life when swapped often

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
Today I used the Porter Cable polisher for the first time. Picked it up at a DeWalt store for 99$ (it's a refurbished unit).

Used it to apply wax on a Honda HRV. So first thought: That thing seriously lack power ;) Had to put it on speed 6 to have any spinning of the pad worth mentioning, even without applying any pressure (just waxing the car with D166).

So halfway through the process, I go to the pad washer to remove some residue the pad had picked up and the white buff&shine foam pad desintegrated when I lifted it up from the grit guard to dry it off. The velcro was completelly torn off the backing plate. Never seen anything llike that in 6 years doing this profesionnally. So I put my hand on the backplate and it's boiling hot. Very strange indeed!

So depending on what machine you are using, Changing pad often might be a good idea. On my Rupes 21, I usually switch pad once halfway through the process. I clean the pad after every panel if I am doing any type of correction, and when needed if applying wax. Using 13 pads per vehicles seems like overkill to me, but if that is what you want to do, more power to you ;) I would not mind doing that if I did not have to clean all those pads afterwards, that's a good hour of pad cleaning to do that many.
 
Swapping over cleaning on the fly saves time when on the job. They get tossed in a bucket of blackfire pad cleaner so clean is as simple as spraying with a hose until the water runs clear and then they go on the shelf to dry.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
Strat said:
I like to use farecla g mop on a rotary polisher and find that after a while things get clogged up. Also I think polish starts to dry up in the pad as a lot of dusting happens.
Wondred if I should be swapping pads during the polishing for a fresh clean one?

If so how often roughly and do you prime it first like a new one?

As always ant advice at all for a novice hugely appreciated
Thanks
Click to expand...

I change pads whether they are foam or wool about ever two panels. Hoods may get 2 pads to themselves if they are big. Roof and trunk 1 pad, two doors done...new pad.....two quarter panels or fenders done....swap that pad. You can never use too many.

Product wise, look into how much you're using too. Just beware of using too much which is what I think happens a lot.
 
Thanks all very much for your advice
Seems I need to invest on a few more pads. :xyxthumbs:

So do you prime your changed pad with product? If so what are your techniques? Seems like I'm going to be using a lot more with all these changes.

Thanks again
 
Strat said:
Thanks all very much for your advice
Seems I need to invest on a few more pads. :xyxthumbs:

So do you prime your changed pad with product? If so what are your techniques? Seems like I'm going to be using a lot more with all these changes.

Thanks again
Click to expand...

For rotary I use the "picking up a bead of product at 10 & 2" technique.

For all other machines, the answer can be found here:

Where does everybody stand on priming their pads?
 
Very interesting and quick method to prime pads. Roughly what length of product are you picking up or is that what 2" refers to? Do you then add more compound before polishing?
Sorry I am clearly new to this
Thanks again for the help
 
Cruzscarwash said:
Swapping over cleaning on the fly saves time when on the job. They get tossed in a bucket of blackfire pad cleaner so clean is as simple as spraying with a hose until the water runs clear and then they go on the shelf to dry.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Do you spin them on the polisher to speed up drying ? Just asking.
 
Calendyr said:
Today I used the Porter Cable polisher for the first time. Picked it up at a DeWalt store for 99$ (it's a refurbished unit).

Used it to apply wax on a Honda HRV. So first thought: That thing seriously lack power ;) Had to put it on speed 6 to have any spinning of the pad worth mentioning, even without applying any pressure (just waxing the car with D166).

So halfway through the process, I go to the pad washer to remove some residue the pad had picked up and the white buff&shine foam pad desintegrated when I lifted it up from the grit guard to dry it off. The velcro was completelly torn off the backing plate. Never seen anything llike that in 6 years doing this profesionnally. So I put my hand on the backplate and it's boiling hot. Very strange indeed!

So depending on what machine you are using, Changing pad often might be a good idea. On my Rupes 21, I usually switch pad once halfway through the process. I clean the pad after every panel if I am doing any type of correction, and when needed if applying wax. Using 13 pads per vehicles seems like overkill to me, but if that is what you want to do, more power to you ;) I would not mind doing that if I did not have to clean all those pads afterwards, that's a good hour of pad cleaning to do that many.
Click to expand...

If this is your experience with the PC, its "refurbishing" process was hacked.

While it doesn't possess as much power as many other 8mm polishers, it certainly doesn't run hot, or have trouble maintaining rotation with little pressure (as you mentioned) Especially to apply wax.
 
PaulMys said:
If this is your experience with the PC, its "refurbishing" process was hacked.

While it doesn't possess as much power as many other 8mm polishers, it certainly doesn't run hot. Especially to apply wax.
Click to expand...

Since it was the backing plate that was so hot, and the pad was destroyed, I wonder if it was incompatibility between the hooks and loops used on the backing plate and pad? If the pad was loose on the backing plate, running at speed 6 would make for a lot of heat as the two vibrate against each other.
 
oneheadlite said:
Since it was the backing plate that was so hot, and the pad was destroyed, I wonder if it was incompatibility between the hooks and loops used on the backing plate and pad? If the pad was loose on the backing plate, running at speed 6 would make for a lot of heat as the two vibrate against each other.
Click to expand...

That is very possible. I have not used that backing plate in a long time, it was the first one I purchased years ago. The backing plate is (was) from Lake Country and the pad I was using was from Buff&Shine. It is possible they are incompatible.
 
As I've stated before, I go through around 20 pads for my truck.

Yup, 20. I don't know if it was the dissatisfaction of trying to polish the truck with only a few, (5) my first time, or the way the pads just seemed "spent" and didn't want to come fully clean afterward.

Either way, I'm a pad changing fool when I correct. Call me crazy, or insert your own adjective [HERE]. Lol
 
PaulMys said:
As I've stated before, I go through around 20 pads for my truck.

Yup, 20. I don't know if it was the dissatisfaction of trying to polish the truck with only a few, (5) my first time, or the way the pads just seemed "spent" and didn't want to come fully clean afterward.

Either way, I'm a pad changing fool when I correct. Call me crazy, or insert your own adjective [HERE]. Lol
Click to expand...

A few more than me. One for the hood, one for each front fender/door. One for each rear door, and the pillars, one for each quarter panel, one for the tail gate and the roof. If I don't feel like I'm getting what I need, I switch to a clean pad. So, 9-10 for a one step. All I know is I read every thread on here about buying as many as you can afford, and I'll attest to that rule.
 
pilotpip said:
A few more than me. One for the hood, one for each front fender/door. One for each rear door, and the pillars, one for each quarter panel, one for the tail gate and the roof. If I don't feel like I'm getting what I need, I switch to a clean pad. So, 9-10 for a one step. All I know is I read every thread on here about buying as many as you can afford, and I'll attest to that rule.
Click to expand...

Clean pads equal cleaner paint.............. :props:
 
Strat said:
I like to use farecla g mop on a rotary polisher and find that after a while things get clogged up. Also I think polish starts to dry up in the pad as a lot of dusting happens.
Wondred if I should be swapping pads during the polishing for a fresh clean one?

If so how often roughly and do you prime it first like a new one?


As always ant advice at all for a novice hugely appreciated
Thanks
Click to expand...

I'm guessing you're in Europe?

To my knowledge, Farecla isn't available in the U.S.? Maybe, been years since I checked. I've used their G-mop pads and products, I found their pads to be very stiff and hard. Don't remember my experience with their compounds and polishes, but nothing stands out in my memory as positive or negative.

Be careful if using foam cutting pads on a rotary buffer, they can generate a LOT of heat very quickly. Like others said, change pads often.

When I use rotary if I "need" to do correction work I use a wool pad as it buffs faster and much cooler. It also leave holograms behind but I already am aware of this and I know my second step process with an orbital and a foam pad and quality polish will remove the holograms.

I share all of this in my write-ups here,

Review: RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher by Mike Phillips at Autogeek


Great pics of holograms after wool and then removed after orbital in this thread. Also great pics of what it looks like to "go up on edge"

Battery Time - FLEX Cordless Polishers - Real World Detail by Mike Phillips at Autogeek




Strat said:
So do you prime your changed pad with product?
Click to expand...

In my entire life I've NEVER primed a wool pad or foam pad when using a rotary buffer. Pad saturation is a problem. Why would I accelerate the problem?

Either use the 10 @ 10 technique or place a circle of product about 2" 3" in diameter around the middle center of the pad, place the pad against the paint, set the polisher to a low speed and then turn the polisher on and spread the product out. If buffing with wool go up on edge, if buffing with foam you can keep the pad flat, you will still get some buffer hop with stiff pads when holding flat with rotary.


The 10 @ 10 technique for picking up a bead of product with a rotary buffer


thread,

Pictures & Comments from September 19th Detailing 102 Class



It's important to wear safety glasses anytime you're operating power tools...
Sept19ADVClass059.jpg



Demonstrating the 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product...
Sept19ADVClass060.jpg



With this technique you run the bead of product into that pad at the 10 O'Clock position on the pad while tilting the pad approximately 10 degrees moving the buffer from right to left...
Sept19ADVClass061.jpg


Sept19ADVClass062.jpg



When you do this instead of splattering the product outward, the pad will pull the product into into itself and under the pad...
Sept19ADVClass063.jpg



After you pick up your bead you can then lay your pad flat, spread the product out over the area you're going to work and begin making slow, overlapping passes.
Sept19ADVClass064.jpg




The goal is to remove all of the sanding marks and restore gloss and clarity to the paint. It's okay if there are still swirls left behind as we'll remove those during the polishing step.


Sept19ADVClass072.jpg




:)
 
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