Bummer dude. Torqx DA.

[Mikem3574]

So i did a 2 step compound and polish on my fiance's 2014 Chrysler 200s (black) today and it didnt go well lol. Im a rookie fyi. I used 3D one with 3D dark purple compound pads(5) and 3D finishing pads (3). Eventually tried using some yellow thin Megs pads after getting frustrsted. I have a Torqx polisher ( posted for sale after this lol). The car was really scratched and swirled b4 i started. Like bad. I found that I was unable to even correct the swirls with the Torqx. Forget about the deeper scratches. I ended up with a shiny black Chrysler filled with the original defects (almost looked worse lol). Anyways...im wondering if the Torqx is REALLY that bad or im really just messing something up (user error).
Dilemna is that a few weeks ago I did my black F150 with Torx and some Megs D166 and pulled a punch of swirls and webs out the paint successfully ( after screwing it up a few times i might add, my previous posts reflect my rookie status). Wondering what the drastic difference was this time...ill post the steps I took....

1. Wash and dry
2. 3D BDX iron decon wiped with QD (as shown on 3D video)
3. Wash and clay
4. Compound pad and 3D one
5. Polish with Finishing pad and 3D one
6. Tried correcting swirls and DA haze with Megs yellow thin and 3D one.

Is the Torqx so bad it cant remove swirls? Did the D166 i used last time just fill in the swirls and not remove ( havent come back. but i have been maintaining weekly with Megs QD and Quick wax.

One thing: The paint seem to be really hard. Even water spots took alot of buffing to remove. Some spots wouldnt even correct with polish. Had to spray with ipa and hand buff them out. Paint seemed like it had a hard coating on top of clearcoat or something idk. Much different than my Ford tuxedo black paint.

Well hopefully there is a lesson to be learned.....thx.

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[2wookies]

The torq isn’t great...but maybe your products could have been stronger. What was you machine technique?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

So i did a 2 step compound and polish on my fiance's 2014 Chrysler 200s (black) today and it didnt go well lol.

I used 3D one with 3D dark purple compound pads(5) and 3D finishing pads (3).

Eventually tried using some yellow thin Megs pads after getting frustrated.

As you worked the 3D One, (a very good product), did you see great pad rotation?

If the pad wasn't rotating, you were wasting your time.


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation

See this article too...


How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads

I have a Torqx polisher ( posted for sale after this lol).

We had ONE of these in the garage and I never had much luck with it. I found it to be one of the weakest free spinning random orbital polishers I've ever used. Last summer we gave Jim LaFeber of Dr. Beasley's some tools for his detailing classes and I included the Torq 10FX in the tool collection.

I used to show it in my classes to let people compare it's functionality to all the other tools I show in my classes and let each person make up their own mind.

The car was really scratched and swirled b4 i started. Like bad. I found that I was unable to even correct the swirls with the Torqx. Forget about the deeper scratches.

I ended up with a shiny black Chrysler filled with the original defects (almost looked worse lol).

Take a moment to read this article.


The two reasons WHY you should always do a Test Spot before buffing out any car



Before I ever buff out a car I start by doing a TEST SPOT.

I dial-in my process and PROVE it works to my expectations to one small area and after proving it works to one small area then I simply repeat the process or repeat what I did in the TEST SPOT to the rest of the car.

Assuming all the paint is the same, theoretically I should get the same results I achieved in the Test Spot over the rest of the car.


If my TEST SPOT does not work, then I do a second or third Test Spot and continue testing pads, products and even tools and techniques until I finalize a process that works on one small section of paint. Then repeat this process to the rest of the car.


Make sense?

 

[dwaleke]

So i did a 2 step compound and polish on my fiance's 2014 Chrysler 200s (black) today and it didnt go well lol. Im a rookie fyi. I used 3D one with 3D dark purple compound pads(5) and 3D finishing pads (3). Eventually tried using some yellow thin Megs pads after getting frustrsted. I have a Torqx polisher ( posted for sale after this lol). The car was really scratched and swirled b4 i started. Like bad. I found that I was unable to even correct the swirls with the Torqx. Forget about the deeper scratches. I ended up with a shiny black Chrysler filled with the original defects (almost looked worse lol). Anyways...im wondering if the Torqx is REALLY that bad or im really just messing something up (user error).

4. Compound pad and 3D one
5. Polish with Finishing pad and 3D one
6. Tried correcting swirls and DA haze with Megs yellow thin and 3D one.

Is the Torqx so bad it cant remove swirls? Did the D166 i used last time just fill in the swirls and not remove ( havent come back. but i have been maintaining weekly with Megs QD and Quick wax.

One thing: The paint seem to be really hard. Even water spots took alot of buffing to remove. Some spots wouldnt even correct with polish. Had to spray with ipa and hand buff them out. Paint seemed like it had a hard coating on top of clearcoat or something idk. Much different than my Ford tuxedo black paint.

In my experience Chrysler paint is almost always between medium and hard. I've never ran across "soft" on any Chrysler (although I'm sure it exists). Perhaps newer FCA cars will be softer just like every other manufacturer is moving too, but not common on a 2014.

3D One is a good polish, but in my limited experience with it I still mentally think of it as a medium cut polish that can finish out like a finish polish. You may need a more aggressive cutting compound and/or a more aggressive pad.

To stay in the 3D family that would be 3D ACA 500 for a more aggressive compound. There are many others (Griot's Garage Fast Correcting Cream, Meguiar's M110, Sonax CutMax, [insert your favorite], etc).

I would also use a microfiber cutting pad or Lake Country Low Lint Lambswool pad, Buff and Shine Uro-Wool, or Rupes coarse wool pad. There are many others too.

You could try one or the other. Just moving to a more aggressive pad might work just fine with 3D One. Or using your current dark purple foam pad with 3D ACA 500 (for instance) might get the job done.

All that said if polishing with 3D One and your finishing pad still left DA Haze behind I would lean towards bad technique with the Torqx. While that combo won't take out defects on medium to hard paint I would at least expect it to remove any DA Haze instilled by your previous step. Although on these medium to hard paints I find the "finishing pad" to be for applying wax/sealant only. I would still use their medium purple polishing pad for my last polishing step. But look at Mike's post above about technique with the buffer and the test spot.

 

[Mikem3574]

In my experience Chrysler paint is almost always between medium and hard. I've never ran across "soft" on any Chrysler (although I'm sure it exists). Perhaps newer FCA cars will be softer just like every other manufacturer is moving too, but not common on a 2014.

3D One is a good polish, but in my limited experience with it I still mentally think of it as a medium cut polish that can finish out like a finish polish. You may need a more aggressive cutting compound and/or a more aggressive pad.

To stay in the 3D family that would be 3D ACA 500 for a more aggressive compound. There are many others (Griot's Garage Fast Correcting Cream, Meguiar's M110, Sonax CutMax, [insert your favorite], etc).

I would also use a microfiber cutting pad or Lake Country Low Lint Lambswool pad, Buff and Shine Uro-Wool, or Rupes coarse wool pad. There are many others too.

You could try one or the other. Just moving to a more aggressive pad might work just fine with 3D One. Or using your current dark purple foam pad with 3D ACA 500 (for instance) might get the job done.

All that said if polishing with 3D One and your finishing pad still left DA Haze behind I would lean towards bad technique with the Torqx. While that combo won't take out defects on medium to hard paint I would at least expect it to remove any DA Haze instilled by your previous step. Although on these medium to hard paints I find the "finishing pad" to be for applying wax/sealant only. I would still use their medium purple polishing pad for my last polishing step. But look at Mike's post above about technique with the buffer and the test spot.

Thank you. I did try a couple test spots with the 3D One and Compound pad and when that didnt seem to bevgoing anywhere, I tried some GG Complete Compound and was unable to correct with that either. I guess Im trying to live with those results lol. I had a hard time with the finishing pad being so soft that anytime i put pressure on it the Torqx stopped spinning. Ended up finishing out with Megs thin yellow pad. Im not sure where Im going wrong with my technique. Most of the hazing appeared on the flat surface along the doors. I was runing 4-6 passes at at speed 5 on the polishing step and speed 6 on the compound. Slow arm speed cross hatch. Ill just have to keep trying different combos/methods. Gets expensive and time consuming tho for sure. Thx for the reply. I need all the guidance i can get. I enjoy detailing (when it comes out right lol) btw- am i able to quote parts of a reply to respond to like u guys do, im using the tapatalk app. Or is that option only available on computer?

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[WillSports3]

I would definitely suggest a better polisher. A well made long throw polisher such as Griots or Rupes, or Forced Rotation like Flex, Rupes, or Makita. I personally prefer long throw, technique and balance over brute force on my part. You probably need a more aggressive leveling fluid more than anything else.

 

[Mikem3574]

I would definitely suggest a better polisher. A well made long throw polisher such as Griots or Rupes, or Forced Rotation like Flex, Rupes, or Makita. I personally prefer long throw, technique and balance over brute force on my part. You probably need a more aggressive leveling fluid more than anything else.

Thinking about G9 once i sell this Torqx. Is the G9 ok to apply waxes and sealent with? I had read that the long throw polishers arent able to apply waxes effectively.

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[Bruno Soares]

Thinking about G9 once i sell this Torqx. Is the G9 ok to apply waxes and sealent with? I had read that the long throw polishers arent able to apply waxes effectively.

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It is fine. The G9 is not considered a long throw. I think 15mm or 21mm would be a slight issue.

 

[oneheadlite]

Before reading too far into your post, Mike Phillip's leading question of "Did you see great pad rotation?" was the first thing I thought of with that machine.

I'd be willing to bet you're losing rotation and it's just oscillating the pad vs actually rotating it. You'll probably have to run it on speed 6 to get the pad to maintain rotation and get actual correction.

The G9 would be a great option for you. As mentioned, it's not considered a long throw, so you shouldn't have any complications using it to apply waxes or sealants. (In the wrong hands, long throws generate enough heat they start curing the wax/sealant as you're applying it). It's great for a free spinning orbital; it happily rotates 5 or 6 inch pads, thick or thin. I'd say it's pretty resistant to stalling on edges/curves too (Any free spinning orbital can in these situations). I've been very happy with my G9.

 

[Mikem3574]

Before reading too far into your post, Mike Phillip's leading question of "Did you see great pad rotation?" was the first thing I thought of with that machine.

I'd be willing to bet you're losing rotation and it's just oscillating the pad vs actually rotating it. You'll probably have to run it on speed 6 to get the pad to maintain rotation and get actual correction.

The G9 would be a great option for you. As mentioned, it's not considered a long throw, so you shouldn't have any complications using it to apply waxes or sealants. (In the wrong hands, long throws generate enough heat they start curing the wax/sealant as you're applying it). It's great for a free spinning orbital; it happily rotates 5 or 6 inch pads, thick or thin. I'd say it's pretty resistant to stalling on edges/curves too (Any free spinning orbital can in these situations). I've been very happy with my G9.

Thanks for the guidance. I agree. The rotation of the pad seemed half ok with the megs thin pads. Not so good with the thicker 3D pads. Even worse with thecsoft 3D finishing pads It almost seems like it lost a bit of its power since the last time i used it (and ive only used it 3x prior). For a compound pad and 3D one and GG complete compound to not even put a dent into some spider webbing, something seems off.

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[PaulMys]

I agree with the above comment on Chrysler paint. I have polished my Ram, my wife's Wrangler, and two other Rams and a Charger belonging to friends & family.

When I very first tried to polish my Ram with my PC, I was a little discouraged. But as I went on, I discovered my technique was in need of improvement. I quickly found out that I was not pressing hard enough in some areas, or using too few section passes, etc.
After about half the truck was done, I had learned when to use extra pressure, when (and how) to lighten up, and when to use extra passes.

Also, cleaning your pads "on the fly" as Mike P teaches, and using PLENTY of pads is key. As Mike always says, when a pad gets wet (saturated) it stops cutting and just heats up.

On my first attempt, I went into it with 6 pads. I now use upwards of 20 on my truck. (I know 20 seems crazy, but the truck is big. And you can definitely tell the difference in cutting power when you switch over).

I have since upgraded to the GG6 from the PC (back in 2017). Power is better, and it corrects a little faster. But learning what your machine can and cannot do is key, IMO.