Burned through the paint on an edge. Strategy to fix other than respray?

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BigMike42

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Hi, I scraped my fender pulling into a garage. I got it mostly buffed out with my PC, but I got greedy and tried to get it close to perfect and ended up burning right through the paint. The area is smooth, but the primer is showing. I have touch up paint pen, but I understand this is designed to fill chips and then get sanded down. I am not sure how to use it on an already level area. I also have the touch up spray paint kit, but I am hesitant to use that. Any advice is appreciated. I don't need it perfect, just good enough.

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The scrape most have taken most if not all the paint off because you would have to use the PCin that same spot for hours to burn through.

It would need a respray but easy and cheap way is to mask off the area, touch up paint then wet sand. Repeat the process until you can live with it.
 
Is it currently smooth? I'll assume so.

Apply colored touch up paint. Thin layers. Wait for it to dry and apply again. Do this 3 or 4 times. Make sure the touch up paint goes slightly passed the damaged area.

Now wetsand and repeat until it is all uniform
 
idriveblackcars said:
The scrape most have taken most if not all the paint off because you would have to use the PCin that same spot for hours to burn through.

It would need a respray but easy and cheap way is to mask off the area, touch up paint then wet sand. Repeat the process until you can live with it.
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The area pictured wasn't even where the scrape was :(. The scrape was up and to the left, you can still see the small mark in the picture. I was dumb and let the microfiber pad edge catch the part of the paint where the primer is now showing. It is a pontiac g8 with very soft paint, so it didn't take much. I was on the area for maybe 20 seconds on speed 5 with d300 and pad.

I now have an arsenal of masking tape lol.


asianisafish said:
Is it currently smooth? I'll assume so.

Apply colored touch up paint. Thin layers. Wait for it to dry and apply again. Do this 3 or 4 times. Make sure the touch up paint goes slightly passed the damaged area.

Now wetsand and repeat until it is all uniform
Click to expand...

Ok thanks. How about the clear coat?
 
I would paint it but everyone has there way of glossing things over with touch up and it just becomes a eyesore.
 
That damage from the polisher was because its on the bodyline.It had to take a lot of heat and pressure to remove paint with that machine.I would not attempt to wet sand it,because you don't have the correct machine and being that it is on the body line it can become tricky or worse.
 
Forget the wet sanding and definitely do not try to "spot spray" it unless you want a real eyesore when your done. Use your touch-up pen, keep the repair area as small as possible and call it a day. Your only other choice is to respray the panel and that has problems of it's own.
 
Wow! that must have been a really thin spot? Did you use a PTG before doing the work?
The only way I can think that damaged happened with a DA is you generated a LOT of heat by working in one area for a long time concatenated by thin paint...
Yes, I realize it's on a body line, which is where the paint is normally very thin...
If I can't get a PTG reading, (like the Stingray I just did), I stick with foam pads... Was there a reason to go with MF? Did you do a test spot using the least aggressive to see if you got results?


If you didn't want to respray, you could try the squeegee method of Dr. Color Chip.
 
paul_g said:
Wow! that must have been a really thin spot? Did you use a PTG before doing the work?
The only way I can think that damaged happened with a DA is you generated a LOT of heat by working in one area for a long time concatenated by thin paint...
Yes, I realize it's on a body line, which is where the paint is normally very thin...
If I can't get a PTG reading, (like the Stingray I just did), I stick with foam pads... Was there a reason to go with MF? Did you do a test spot using the least aggressive to see if you got results?


If you didn't want to respray, you could try the squeegee method of Dr. Color Chip.
Click to expand...

I sat on it for no more than 20 secs at speed 5 and that is all it took to get that paint off. I am inexperienced, my only other car before this that I detailed was my '99 vette. Notoriously hard paint. Only the microfiber pads would do anything on that car, so I continued to use it on the G8. So I just assumed all GM paint was hard. Learned my lesson the hard way.

I now switched to menzerna + foam pads only for the G8. I got the hydrotech red pad + menzerna 3800. I got tangerine and 2500 too, but I doubt I will even need that for this car. I will now do test spots from now on. First time detailing in about 3 years :). Good start!
 
I would lightly sand the are where the primer is to a little "groove" and then "fill-in" the groove with touch-up using a small artist's brush, sand it down once it is dry and polish to try and blend it in as best as possible
 
I would air brush the paint after lightly sanding if you have it. If not then blend in a single stage paint like Dupli-Color. Polish after 24 hours. Trick is to not just paint the defect, but to blend it in to the surroundig area. If you can get to a panel line that works best.
 
Crispy said:
I would air brush the paint after lightly sanding if you have it. If not then blend in a single stage paint like Dupli-Color. Polish after 24 hours. Trick is to not just paint the defect, but to blend it in to the surroundig area. If you can get to a panel line that works best.
Click to expand...


Ya I am gonna try this. I tried touch paint with an arts and crafts brush and it just slides right off the primer. Worked great on a gouge I have but a lot of trouble with a smooth area.
 
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