can all pads be used on rotary and DA

watson1000

New member
Apr 10, 2011
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Hello guys /gals

can all the different foam pads by the different manufactures be used on rotary and DA. I am looking into some new pads and am finding most say for use with DA . I would like to use them on both machines .

thanks for the help

Glenn
 
I thought they could , I have used megs softbuff on both machines with no troubles ,but you never know things are being made cheaper these days .

thanks for the reply

anyone else have any input ???


Glenn
 
Most foam pads can be used on both, the limiting factor is the diameter size, you don't want to try to use a 8" foam pad on a DA Polisher even though in my life I've seen people try to do this, even some well knowns detailers in their early years.


Wool pads will work on a rotary but not a DA Polisher.

Surbuf and Megs Microfiber pads will work on a DA but are not for use with rotary buffers.


If you're new to rotary buffers, (I don't know that you are?), I would recommend starting out with smaller diameter buffing pads and flexible buffing pads like shown here,

Below are just a few of the pictures from this article,

Flexible Backing Plates for Rotary Buffers

Flex-Foam Backing Plate on a 5.5" Cyan Hydro-Tech Pad
FlexBackP002.jpg




For heavy cutting with a rotary buffer, get a wool cutting pad...

W66 Flexible Backing Plate on a 7.5" DuroWool 100% Twisted Wool Cutting Pad
FlexBackP008.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
thank you everyone for the reply's.

Mike I have used a rotary for years and very comfortable using them. I do prefer the rotary over the da for the correction .I have only ever used the Megs softbuff pads and was going to purchase some new pads by LC to play with .I am thinking the new thin ,flat ones from LC .

Glenn
 
does thinness of the pads (7/8 in vs 1.25 in) matter as much with a rotary?

How would those new CP pads do on a rotary?
 
does thinness of the pads (7/8 in vs 1.25 in) matter as much with a rotary?

How would those new CP pads do on a rotary?


Thicker pads are actually better in one aspect for use with rotary buffers and that's to make any finishing steps less aggressive, (more cushion), for a nicer or more swirl-free finish, besides that a rotary buffer is going to spin whatever you attach the the backing plate.

Flexible backing plates are in my opinion the best thing since sliced bread when it comes to buffing with a rotary buffer.

If you have a rigid backing plate then a good option are the Constant Pressure Pads as the softer foam backing will mimic the benefits of a flexible backing plate.


Constant Pressure Pads



:)
 
thanks Mike for insight into the different pads. I think I will try the hydro tech flat pads 6.5 from LC and see what I think of them .

Glenn
 
i have 5.5 pads for both my DA and Rotary. I love using 5.5 pads because they are easier to control. I know they dont cover as much as a 6.5 or 8 inch pad would on a rotary but i feel more comfortable. On my DA i would never go anything higher than 5.5 inches.

Now i will say something that i wish Mike would chime in and shine some of his knowledge of my question. For some reason, i feel that the DA wears out the pad a lot quicker and it seems to get sort of wrinkled in the middle of the pad. I just see this with the DA. I dont over work the pad, i use about 1 pad per 2 small panels and then change it. But with my rotary the pads never seem to get like that. As a matter of fact, I personally feel the DA heats up the pads A LOT more than the rotary.
 
fox man , which pads do u use if I may ask . lc ? flats-ccs-ht-cp? I know u a rotary user what do u use for jeweling ?
 
fox man , which pads do u use if I may ask . lc ? flats-ccs-ht-cp? I know u a rotary user what do u use for jeweling ?

i have some Megs 6.5 pads and i love them. i use them mostly for hoods and roofs. i have mostly LC pads. Flats and Hyrdrotech. Hydrotech are now my favorite. They work so perfect and flawless on the rotary. They correct so quick. As for jewling, i use the Crimison Hydrotech pad. I like it because most of the polish is at the surface of the pad and it dosent suck it up like other pads do. i have to yet jewel with a Blue and Red LC pad to see if there is a difference.
 
For some reason, i feel that the DA wears out the pad a lot quicker and it seems to get sort of wrinkled in the middle of the pad. I just see this with the DA. I don't over work the pad, i use about 1 pad per 2 small panels and then change it. But with my rotary the pads never seem to get like that. As a matter of fact, I personally feel the DA heats up the pads A LOT more than the rotary.


Good question...

First... just for the lurkers that read our forum and even some forum members,

Pads wear out


Not only do pads wear out but backing plates wear out. Actually, nothing lasts forever and anything you're using to apply a product to car paint by hand or machine will wear out. I only post this because as hard as it is to believe, there are a handful of people that for some reason don't think anything should wear out.


As for why pads would wear out faster when used on a DA versus a RB?

Here's one factor that is related to foam pads that affects longevity, this is from my e-book...

Mike Phillips said:

Density Changes With Use

As polishing and cutting pads become saturated with liquids and warm or even hot from use, density drops off or the stiffness of the foam decreases. The effect this has is to reduce the mechanical ability of the foam's performance.

This is why a clean dry foam cutting pad will be more aggressive than the same pad after it's been used to buff a panel or two.

If you're going to rely on a foam cutting pads to remove below surface defects then a good rule of thumb is to have one pad per panel to maximize the efficiency of the correction work and decrease the amount of time for the correction step. More pads is better… as soon as a pad becomes broken-in, or saturated with product, remove it and switch to a clean, dry pad. (new or used)


Elasticity - Tensile strength
Elasticity is another way of referring to the tensile strength of foam. Tensile strength is a measurement of how far foam will stretch before it will tear.

  • High tensile strength equals a form formula that will not tear easily.
  • Low tensile strength equals a foam formula that will tear easily.

Open cell foam pads tend to have higher tensile strengths than closed cell foam.

Example: Hydro-Tech pads, (closed cell foam), have lower tensile strength and will tear and wear more easily than CCS pads, (open cell foam).


Besides that, one of the ways I've described the action of a PC style DA Polisher for years but this would also apply to the Flex 3401 style, is the action is violent.

At the high speed settings, the face of a foam buffing pad is moving in a very fast and violent action as it's oscillating and rotating at the same time.

Contrast to a rotary buffer there's only one action and as long as your pad is centered onto the backing plate the action is very smooth as there's only a single type of action and that's rotating.

My thoughts are that the violent action crated by a DA at the higher speeds not only generates heat over time but it can also cause greater wear to the face of the pad.

That's just a fuzzy comment because there are all kinds of factors that affect how fast a foam pad wears down, things like,

  • The condition of the paint
  • The technique of the operator
  • Downward pressure
  • Type of abrasive
  • Type of foam
  • Time
  • Heat

:)
 
excellent info from everyone , thanks guys . I am buying the hydro lc pads , flat 6.5

Glenn
 
does this mean that as an orange light cutting pad gets older, it will eventually have the cut of a white polishing pad?

Assuming the thing isn't falling apart, I'm assuming it could still be used to apply paint cleaners b/c it would no longer give you the same level of cut as a new orange pad, which probably would be too aggressive to be used for a paint cleaner anyways
 
does this mean that as an orange light cutting pad gets older, it will eventually have the cut of a white polishing pad?

It's just a characteristic from you using the pad. It happens with ALL pads from any manufacturer too...

Part of the fall-off or reduction in cut ability of a foam cutting pad simply comes from the pad becoming wet with product. Water or liquids have a way of making some materials softer. After you clean the pad and allow the foam to dry then some level of density and tensile strength are restored.

That's why it's faster to do the correction step by switching to a clean, dry pad often versus trying to do the correction step to an entire car using only one pad.

That's why a clean, dry pad will rotate better under pressure on a DA style tool than a wet, saturated pad.

I don't think you can call a cutting pad a polishing pad in performance just because it's bee used previously, the foam itself has chemical additives added to it to make it more aggressive. There's more science to foam formulas than most of us know about and foam manufacturing companies will ever share with the public.

That's why sometimes I tell people at some point you just have to trust the brand name for the product, (whatever it is), and that the product will perform as stated because the businesses in this industry don't share proprietary information.


:)
 
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