Can DP Poli-Coat Be Layered?

Re: Frosting on the cake

Forgot. Is there a cure time?
 
Hi termigator,


I moved your two questions about Poli-Coat out of the Frosting on a Cake thread because while it's easy to simply tag onto an existing thread sometimes, even often times it's better to start a New Thread for a dedicated topic.



As to your two questions, from the information page for this new product here,

DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant, polymer paint sealant, auto paint sealant, DP Policoat paint sealant, paint sealer

termigator said:
Can DP Poly-Coat be layered?

There's no specific statement about layering on the information page for this product. Second applications of product usually create a uniform layer, not a thicker and thicker layer of the product.




termigator said:
Forgot. Is there a cure time?

Directions:

Machine Application:

If your vehicle hasn’t been clayed before, use DP Universal Detailing Clay to remove any embedded contaminants from the paint.

Apply DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant using a foam finishing pad on your dual action polisher. Apply the wax in a 2-3 square foot area in a very thin, even coat.

Once the wax has dried to a light haze, buff the area with a clean Cobra Microfiber Towel.

Continue working section by section until the entire vehicle is protected.


Hand Application:
Use a foam or microfiber applicator to wipe a thin coat of DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant over one section at a time. Allow the sealant to dry to a light haze.

Buff off the residue using a Cobra Indigo Edgeless Polishing Cloth.



Maintenance
Maintain the gloss between washes with DP Final Gloss™ Quick Detailer.


Good questions...


:)
 
Thanks Mike. Just one more question....:rolleyes:

Because of the "bonding agent" in Poly-Lock, can you just apply it on the car even if it was previously waxed with a carauba based wax (like M21)? I'm not saying I would do this just for the sake of doing it, but I wax my cars a lot and it would be easier to know that I don't have to strip the wax first or use a cleaner wax before applying the Poly-Lock. Thanks.
 
Thanks Mike. Just one more question....:rolleyes:

Because of the "bonding agent" in Poly-Lock, can you just apply it on the car even if it was previously waxed with a carauba based wax


You could in the same way that you could apply any wax, sealant or hybrid over any previously waxed or sealed surface but your results might vary.

For best results, if you want to use Poli-Coat or any paint protection product be it a wax, sealant or hybrid, best results will be to apply the product to a properly prepared surface, in most cases that would mean prep the paint for application of a wax, sealant or hybrid by first cleaning the surface by,

  1. Washing
  2. Claying if needed
  3. Using a paint cleaner or some type of cleaning product to get to a fresh base


and....

with a carauba based wax (like M21)?

M21 Synthetic Paint Sealant uses all synthetic or man-made ingredients for protection, not Carnauba wax.


:)
 
Oops! I put M21 in the wrong spot. I meant M21's ability to be applied OVER carnauba waxes.
 
Oops! I put M21 in the wrong spot. I meant M21's ability to be applied OVER carnauba waxes.

Where did you read that M21 can be applied over a Carnauba wax?

I'm sure you can do this but most people apply a Carnauba wax over a Sealant?

To be honest, I don't get all anal retentive like a segment of the "Online" detailing community about bonding, and topping, I leave that up to others.

In the real world, YOU CAN DO ANYTHING YOU LIKE as not as it's illegal. So if you want to use products in all kinds of different ways I say go for it and have fun.

I don't really have time for speculating on "what ifs"

I know one thing for sure, I've never seen a coating of any wax or sealant slide off a car and pile-up on the floor surrounding the car because the topping product didn't bond.

So have fun and do whatever you want with the paint on your car.


How's that? And I only mean this in the nicest way... I'm just busy and have some other things to do then type out detailed replies on "what ifs" and hypothetical scenarios that people may or may not ever do....


:)
 
Didn't really read it anywhere. I know on the Meguiar's & Autopia Forums they've always discussed and argued about Meguiar's waxes having just a little bit of "cleaners" in them to allow better bonding on the paint and since M21 is supposedly the professional version of NXT, I assumed they would also have those "cleaners" in the formula for better bonding?:confused:
 
Didn't really read it anywhere. I know on the Meguiar's & Autopia Forums they've always discussed and argued about Meguiar's waxes having just a little bit of "cleaners" in them to allow better bonding on the paint and since M21 is supposedly the professional version of NXT, I assumed they would also have those "cleaners" in the formula for better bonding?:confused:

Yeah the NXT/M21 "Cleaner" topic has been a hot one ever since 2004 when NXT was launched.

They originally both had a sleight amount of cleaners in them because,

NXT marketed to Joe Consumer, that is the average person and as we all know the average person is driving an average daily driver an really only knows, wash car, wax car, so in order for the wax to last and thus protect, a sleight cleaning ability was given to the product. It's still not a product that is recommended for use on a car with neglected finish. If anyone is working on a neglected finish they should wash, the CLAY and then using some kind of pre-wax cleaner to clean the paint an prepare it for application of wax.


M21 is formulated for and sold into the Professional Detailing Industry and it's pretty standard for the production side of this industry to mean buffing out neglected paint using a one-step product. M21 is best used on finishes that like NXT are washed, clayed and cleaned till the paint is smooth before applying M21 but if you apply M21 with a rotary buffer and a wool pad you have power and the aggressive bite of the wool fibers which by themselves are an abrasive, so together with a smooth, cream liquid actually designed to clean a little and be used on paint, you can get some pretty good results with this approach but that doesn't make the M21 what could be considered a normal cleaner/wax like is usually meant by the term, idea and placement into a category.

I don't personally but anyone reading this can have their own opinion.

I can't believe 6 years later I'm still typing about cleaners in NXT and M21... Ugh....


Here's the last time I used M21, after a very thorough wet-sanding, cutting and polishing process I machine applied M21 and the next day, after the below pictures were taken I applied Füzion.


If it has paint... it gets polished...


I followed this with a machine applied application of M21 Synthetic Paint Sealant, for this used the Meguiar's G110v2 with another W9207 Foam Finishing pad on the 3.0 Speed Setting.

Note the placement of my left finger, I'm stabilizing myself as I lean out to seal the center of the roof but instead of touching any painted portion of the car I'm using the trim surrounding the window. At this point there are not defects in the paint and any new defects will show up like a Sore Thumb.

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Shake shake shake... a small circle of product onto the face of the pad
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I use the "Kissing the Finish" technique when machine applying a liquid wax or paint sealant, that is instead of taking the wax you see on the face of the pad and simply squishing it up into the foam by placing the foam pad flat against the paint, the Kissing the Finish" technique is where you touch down just an edge of the face of the foam pad and deposit a little of the wax to a portion of the panel you're working on.

Then after you've Kissed the Finish in a few places, take what's left and place the face of the foam pad against the paint and THEN turn the polisher on and begin making overlapping passes over the paint.

UNLIKE removing swirls with a DA Polisher where you only want to work a small section at a time, (about 20" squarish or so), if you've removed all the below surface defects and now you're just applying a wax or paint sealant, you can work a section as far as you can reach as long as you have ample product to spread out. For the hood of this El Camino I can easily reach and work on half of the hood so I use enough wax to coat over half of the hood and move the pad over each square inch at least 2-3 passes to sufficiently work the sealant over and into, (to whatever level possible), the paint.
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As I come up to a dab of wax from where I "Kissed the Finish" with my pad, I tilt the polisher, lifting the leading edge of the pad but maintaining constant contact with the trailing edge of the pad and then run the pad over the dab of wax and then immediately lay the pad flat again and then work new territory with this new dab of wax.
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Tilt the polisher a little to lift the leading edge of the pad...
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Then lay the pad flat and begin working the wax or in this case a synthetic paint sealant over the paint.
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And here's what an ample but thin, well worked-in coating looks like after machine application using a DA Polisher.

I'm using the Flash to highlight the coating of sealant otherwise it just doesn't show up very well...

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Next I'll remove the dried sealant and let the protection ingredients left behind fully set-up over night and the next and almost last step will be to hand apply a layer of Füzion.

Then re-attach any trim components, check for wax in the cracks, (shouldn't be much), then take some after pictures and some after video and then return the car to the owner.
 
Let the 1969 El Camino sit in the Autogeek Garage all night after wiping off the initial application of M21 Synthetic Sealant. Swung by the garage today to pull her out and take a few pictures...

Here's the cake... cake is good... cake is even better with frosting on it...

Tomorrow we'll put the frosting on it...


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:)
 
The above car was also on display the entire time at Detail Fest with nothing done to it after I applied a coating of Füzion.

Note: The car had not been wiped down or anything since after making the final wipe and removing the Füzion. What anyone saw at Detail Fest was the real deal...



If you want to layer then do it.
If you want to top one product with another product then do it.


"Find something you like and use it often"


:)
 
Thanks for the additional info. on M21. I remember the debates quite well. I had just recently "discovered" detailing and Autopia and I had no idea how passionate people were about LSP's! It was actually quite entertaining reading!

I saw the car at DF last Sunday. I was very impressed. :dblthumb2:

I was going to put Poly-Lock on my wife's DD (Your favorite paint, Mike. Single stage white!), but I guess I should probably clean off the previous layer of wax first.:)
 
Thanks for the additional info. on M21. I remember the debates quite well. I had just recently "discovered" detailing and Autopia and I had no idea how passionate people were about LSP's! It was actually quite entertaining reading!

The passion people poured out onto the forum honed my skills and prepared me for anything on a forum...


I saw the car at DF last Sunday. I was very impressed. :dblthumb2:

Why thank you, it wasn't a lot of work, it was a lot of fun to work on the El Camino...

:)

I was going to put Poly-Lock on my wife's DD (Your favorite paint, Mike. Single stage white!), but I guess I should probably clean off the previous layer of wax first.:)

You've obviously read my article on "The lesson white paint teaches us"


:D
 
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