can you jewel with a light medium cutting pad?

[pman626]

is it possible to achieve very good clarity with an orange light-medium cut foam pad with Megs Ultimate Polish using jeweling technique?

There are some narrow contoured areas I have 3" pads for, and I don't want to buy any more different pads because they are a ripoff.

 

[Guessless]

You needed the softest pads for jewlleing like the LC CCS GOLD PAD, the orange pad has a lot of cut.

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Ideally you want to use the softest, least aggressive foam pads to finish out clearly.

Now there will be many contributing factors on how you work out what you are trying to do with your seteup you want to use.

Paint hardness, color, tool, where on the vehicle you are trying to work, etc. Also will you be applying a pure LSP in the sense that it does not have any glaze properties?

As for not buying any more pads, I wouldnt say they are a ripoff and are designed with a certain function in mind.

 

[HUMP DIESEL]

I agree with Mike, pads are not a rip-off and you can achieve different results with a lighter pad, especially if jeweling. It is a real thing and you need a light pad with a pure polish to achieve the desired results.

HUMP

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

On a gel-coat boat maybe but not a scratch-sensitive clearcoat finish.



Pictures: 1960 Glastron - Wetsand, Cut & Buff at Marine31Online.com


Robert, Andy and Jeff are starting the polishing work, they've switched over to using the Flex 3401 with blue 6.5" Hybrid Foam Cutting pads with the Captain's One-Step Compound & Polish.

The results on the gel-coat in the picture below are from the machine polishing step with Blue Foam Cutting Pads.

 

[FUNX650]

is it possible to achieve very good clarity with an orange light-medium cut foam pad with Megs Ultimate Polish using jeweling technique?

•Without letting us know, among other factors:
-This particular orange pad's manufacturer's "coding/rating system":
it's combination of pad density, compression and PPI;
-What polisher you are going to use;
-Your skill level using that choice of polisher;
-Your knowledge of the abrasiveness of this buffing liquid;
-Which "jeweling technique" you plan on using; along with:
-The current state of the vehicle's paint...

It'd be hard to say the level of clarity you can achieve, IMO.

But the final decision is up to you.
Let us know how things work out for you.

There are some narrow contoured areas I have 3" pads for, and I don't want to buy any more different pads because they are a ripoff.

To be sure: there are "gimmick-pads" that some pad manufacturers
make for, let's say: competitive reasons.

Regardless...
It ultimately boils down to becoming familiar with the capabilities, and limitations,
of the "style" of pad we choose to buff with...and the liquids that are used with them.

As the TV commercial goes:
"The more you know".


Bob

 

[swanicyouth]

Just buy the right stuff.

Why would you attempt to spend several hours to buff out a car using stuff that may or may not work correctly?

Isn't your time worth more than that???

 

[RaskyR1]

is it possible to achieve very good clarity with an orange light-medium cut foam pad with Megs Ultimate Polish using jeweling technique?

There are some narrow contoured areas I have 3" pads for, and I don't want to buy any more different pads because they are a ripoff.

In your case it sounds like you should be buying the correct pads, but to asnwer your question, it all depends on the paint! Kevin Brown has shown this many times on finicky paints and has helped many very reputable pros out in such situation. Quite often the solution has been a firm pad, of course there was some unique technique involved too. There is even a Pod Cast with Kevin and Larry Kosilla (AMMO NYC) discussing the topic.

 

[HUMP DIESEL]

I listened to that one, very informative, talking about a firmer pad and then spritzing with the 205.

HUMP

 

[Paul A.]

In my experience i have never gone from an orange pad step to LSP. Whether my next refinement is white, black, red, blue or gold...there is always a "next" step for refinement after orange. And i have all of those LC colored pads for various applications.

Furthermore, i would not waste my time with a fine polish and an orange pad to attempt to jewel. That's what my other, softer pads are for.

 

[allenk4]

Do a Test Spot. Takes 5 minutes and you can judge whether a given combination of products and techniques works for you, on your paint

I have found that it is usually quickest to start with a more standard approach and work from there

In this case, a standard approach would be a very soft pad that offers No Cut and a polish that is a 2 for aggressiveness

http://www.autopiaforums.com/Todd-Helme/polish-chart.jpg

The opinions offered here...including mine, are just that; opinions


I have found that it is usually very difficult to see even a small benefit to "Jeweling" most paints

 

[pman626]

i did not know there were different jeweling techniques.

I'm working on lexus paint. I have a 6" blue polishing pad, and I found it takes too much time to remove swirls.

I was just thinking light pressure on a DA with a light-medium foam pad, and letting the polish do the work.

or will the light-med cutting pad mar the paint no matter what lubrication is underneath?

 

[FUNX650]

i did not know there were different jeweling techniques.

I was just thinking light pressure on a DA with a light-medium foam pad, and letting the polish do the work.

The foremost technique for "jeweling" auto paint,
is more often done with a rotary (circular) polisher.

Bob

 

[DaveT435]

what brand pad? The Lake Country Blue aren't really for removing swirls. If they are LC pads I would recommend a white pad, also your talking about removing swirls and Jeweling, those are two different processes. You could use the light cutting pad and polish to remove swirls then go over with the blue and polish to get clarity and gloss. Just my .02 and this is if we're talking LC pads