Cant get swirls out of paint 00 trans am firehawk

Ramairetransam

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My brother has a 00 firehawk and i cant seem to make the paint awesome like my 04 red Monte Carlo , same products used . So i need more cut . I've been using an orange pad with the orange pinnacle xmt . I don't know what else to try or use , im a diyer and don't want to buy so many different things and take forever on a car , 8-10 hrs max .

I think the orange is the intermediate. what should i be using , ive heard the 98-02 fbodies have very hard clear coat .

Using a 7424xp ive done about 6 cars now and everything has come out better than this firehawk and cant dissapoint . My brother thinks i have no skills now .
 
My brother has a 00 firehawk and i cant seem to make the paint awesome like my 04 red Monte Carlo , same products used . So i need more cut . I've been using an orange pad with the orange pinnacle xmt . I don't know what else to try or use , im a diyer and don't want to buy so many different things and take forever on a car , 8-10 hrs max .

I think the orange is the intermediate. what should i be using , ive heard the 98-02 fbodies have very hard clear coat .

Using a 7424xp ive done about 6 cars now and everything has come out better than this firehawk and cant dissapoint . My brother thinks i have no skills now .

What XMT product are you referring to? I can verify, the paint on these f-bodies are extremely hard. I was able to correct mine with the Menzerna/WG line fairly easily. You need to make sure you are working the product slowly with proper technique and cleaning the pads frequently. M105/M205 is another option for you if in fact you do need additional cut. I two stepped my trans am and took well over 10 hours total. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist however.
 
M105/M205 is another option for you if in fact you do need additional cut.


IF the XMT #3 isn't aggressive enough you could try the XMT #4 which is very aggressive or as suggested above get the M105 Ultra Cut Compound.


Then, before buffing out the entire car, dial in your process by doing a Test Spot.

Read this article,

How To Do a Test Spot
(and why it's so important)


And welcome to Autogeek Online!


:welcome:
 
I was told by someone on another forums that buffs professionally that the #4 pinnacle wasnt that good and to stay away from it . The only thing that worries me about the m105/205 is that i have to watch for drying? But i do need more cut .
 
I was told by someone on another forums that buffs professionally that the #4 pinnacle wasnt that good and to stay away from it . The only thing that worries me about the m105/205 is that i have to watch for drying? But i do need more cut .

if he buffs professionally ask him what he has that would work.
 
he told me 105 205 combo but made me worried when he talked about it drying out and other things . Ive done about 6 cars and ive watched junkman videos and been on here for a while but ive never been shown how to work with it . So im worried that i wont be able to just pick it up and use it .
 
i only have the xmt sutff , the number 3 and 1 with the xmt blue wax . i also have collinite i use on my daily driver , thats it .
 
You can get Meg's Ultimate Compound OTC, that will have a little less cut and a little more work time than 105.
 
As a fellow Fbody owner we have hard clears so m105 would work perfect, check your local autozone/walmart some have been starting to carry m105/m205, they will work amazing.
 
the local advance auto has it , 36.99 for 32oz of 105 and 40.99 for 32oz of 205 . rip off , im gonna order some from here .
 
When you get the M105, I would highly recommend using the Kevin Brown method of priming the pad. This will cut down on the dusting and ensure even product coverage. While I used a different compound on my WS6 (Menz SIP) I still always use this method when compounding. Also, start with a less aggressive pad if you absolutely have to use the M105.

EDIT: And make sure you take Mike's advice and do a test spot!!
 
Read through this,

How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher



Make sure you mark your backing plate, you want to see the pad rotating when you're doing any type of correction work.

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


MarkYourBackingPlate01.jpg


Here's a quick video that show how and why to mark your backing plate to see and monitor pad rotation while doing any correction or polishing steps.


:)



[video=youtube_share;QM8PnDooZP8&hd=1"]How To Check Pad Rotation on a DA Polisher -...[/video]​
 
If you haven't already, read through this, it's best to read through this trouble shooting guide BEFORE you get into trouble.

DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide



Tyler, age 15 removing swirls using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher
1965Plymouth035.jpg


When you're first starting out machine polishing and learning to use a DA Polisher it's common to have questions about your results and your results are directly tied to your technique.

Here's a list of the most common problems,

1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.

2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.

3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.

4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.

5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.

6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.

7. Using too much product or using too little product.

8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Here's a list of the solutions in matching order,

1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.
Shrink the size of your work area down. You can't tackle to large of an area at one time. The average size work area should be around 20" by 20". Most generic recommendations say to work an area 2' by 2' but for the correction step, that's too large. You have to do some experimenting, (called a Test Spot), to find out how easy or how hard the defects are coming out of your car's paint system and then adjust your work area to the results of your Test Spot. The harder the paint the smaller the area you want to work.


2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.
For removing defects out of the paint you want to use what we call a Slow Arm Speed. It's easy and actually natural for most people new to machine polishing to move the polisher quickly over the paint but that's the wrong technique. One reason I think people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they hear the sound of the motor spinning fast and this has psychological effect which causes them to match their arm movement to the perceived fast speed of the polisher's motor.

Another reason people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they think like this,

"If I move the polisher quickly, I'll get done faster"

But it doesn't work that way. Anytime you're trying to remove swirls, scratches, water spots or oxidation using a DA Polisher you need to move the polisher s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint.



3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
When first starting out many people are scared of burning or swirling their paint, so they take the safe route of running the polisher at too low of a speed setting but this won't work. The action of the polisher is already g-e-n-t-l-e, you need the speed and specifically the pad oscillating and rotating over the paint as well as the combination of time, (slow arm speed), together with the abrasives, the pad aggressiveness, and the downward pressure to remove small particles of paint which is how your remove below surface defects like swirls or scratches.

Removing below surface defects is a leveling process where you need the abrasives to take little bites out of the paint and to get the abrasives to take these little bites with a tool that uses a Free Floating Spindle Bearing Assembly you need all of the above factors working for you including a high speed setting.



4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.
For the same reason as stated in #3, people are scared, or perhaps a better word is apprehensive, to apply too much downward pressure to the polisher and the result of too little pressure is no paint is removed thus no swirls are removed.



5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.
If you push too hard you will slow down the rotating movement of the pad and the abrasives won't be effectively worked against the paint. You need to apply firm pressure to engage the abrasives against the paint but no so much that the pad is barely rotating. This is where it's a good idea to use a permanent black marker to make a mark on the back of your backing plate so your eyes can easily see if the pad is rotating or not and this will help you to adjust your downward pressure accordingly.

Correct technique means finding a balance of applying enough downward pressure to remove defects but not too much downward pressure as to stop the rotating movement of the pad.

This balance is affected by a lot of factors like the lubricity of the product you're using, some compounds and polishes provide more lubrication than others and this makes it easier to maintain pad rotation under pressure.

Another factor that can affect pad rotation are raised body lines, edges and curved surfaces as anytime you have uneven pressure on just a portion of the face of the pad it can slow or stop pad rotation. This is where experience comes into play and experience comes from time spent behind the polisher.



6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.
Applying pressure in such a way as to put too much pressure to one edge of the pad will cause it to stop rotating and thus decrease abrading ability.



7. Using too much product or using too little product.
Too much product hyper-lubricates the surface and the result is that abrasives won't effectively bite into the paint but instead will tend to skim over the surface. Overusing product will also accelerate pad saturation as well increase the potential for slinging splatter onto adjacent panels.

Too little product will means too little lubrication and this can interfere with pad rotation.

Again there needs to be a balance between too much product and too little product and finding this balance comes from reading articles like this one, watching videos an most important, going out into the garage and putting in time behind the polisher and as you're buffing with specific product and pad combinations, pay attention to pad rotation.



8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Most people simply don't clean their pad often enough to maximize the effectiveness of their DA Polisher. Anytime you're abrading the paint you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad,
  • Removed paint
  • Spent product
As these to things build up on the face of the pad they become gummy and this has a negative affect on pad rotating plus makes wiping the leftover residue on the paint more difficult. To maintain good pad rotation you want to clean your pad often and always wipe-off any leftover product residue off the paint after working a section. Never add fresh product to your pad and work a section that still has leftover product residue on it.


Pad Cleaning Articles

Why it's important to clean your pads often...

How to clean your foam pad on the fly

How to use the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer



Tyler, age 15 machine applying a paste wax using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher

1965Plymouth067.jpg


1965Plymouth071.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
M105 is said by some on forums to dry out too fast or to become difficult to work with or to be very dusty, everyone's experience is different and technique is a HUGE factor.

I've been using M105 since it was first introduced and was easily one of the first people to teach detailing classes on how-to use it, if for no other reason because when it was introduced I was the primary instructor at Meguiar's for the Saturday Detailing 101 and Advanced Classes and for all the Extreme Makeovers, Roadshow classes and TNOG's or Thursday Night Open Garage classes that I originally started on Wednesday nights and then moved to Thursday nights.

And here's the best two tips I can share with you how to work with M105 without any problems.

First, dont' tackle too large of an area at one time.

You'll see this is listed as the #1 for the most common problems in my article I posted above. There's a reason it's lists as #1 and that's because too many people try to buff out too large of an area at one time.



Here's what happens from just an excerpt from my article here,

Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight

Shrink your work area down to a smaller size...
Anytime a product becomes difficult to work with, one tip you can try is to shrink down the size of your work area. This means you spread the product out over a smaller area and only work this smaller area.

Be careful not to allow yourself to do what I call Buffer Creep. This is where you creep outward from your original small section and end up buffing out a larger section. Avoid Buffer Creep. Especially if your product appears to be drying up and becoming dusty.


Why a smaller area?
Because when you're working only a small are you're continually engaging the working film of product over the area more quickly as you move the polisher and by doing this there's less time for the product to dry and dust.



Second, CLEAN YOUR PAD OFTEN
Most people don't clean their pad often enough and this makes buffing with any abrasive product more difficult on both the buffing side and the wipe-off side.

>>Click the link below<<<

And then watch this little video and get some terry cloth hand towels and clean your pad often.

Video: How to clean your pad on the fly


And here's why,

Why it's important to clean your pads often...


ANYTIME you're abrading the surface whether you're using an aggressive cutting compound of an ultra fine polish, you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad...

  • Spent product
  • Removed paint
You need to remove both of these substances from the face of the pad and the panel you're working on before you apply fresh product. If you don't,

  • Adding fresh product to spent product and removed paint adulterates the fresh product, it also dilutes it.
  • Buffing with a dirty pad will be more difficult.
  • The product will cake-up on the face of the pad.
  • The product will become gummy on the paint and hard to wipe off.

:)
 
he told me 105 205 combo but made me worried when he talked about it drying out and other things .

Don't worry, it's really not that big a deal.


Ive done about 6 cars and ive watched junkman videos and been on here for a while but ive never been shown how to work with it .

I've never met the Junkman but applaud anyone that helps bring others further up the road.

So im worried that i wont be able to just pick it up and use it .

It's easy, watch this video on how to do a section pass and the duplicate it.



How to do a Section Pass

[video=youtube_share;Q70g83mnTn4"]YouTube- How to do a "Section Pass"...[/video]​



This goes through the paint polishing process in less than 5 minutes.


Removing Swirls and Oxidation By Machine
[video=youtube_share;PWdYCHZrpd8"]How To Remove Oxidation by Machine Polishing with...[/video]​



After this segment, Dave Bowman purchased a Porter Cable DA Polisher and the pads and chemicals buffed out his own Corvette. At SEMA I autographed a copy of my how-to book and gave it to him and last spring when he was here at Autogeek he purchased a second copy for his brother. So if you're new to car detailing, perhaps consider getting a copy of my how-to book and reading it. It's jamb packed full of tons of information.

Paperback



:)
 
If you watch the live broadcast from last Thursday night, about one minute and 20 seconds into the video I show Trista how to use a Porter Cable DA Polisher and then turn her loose with it.


Live Broadcast
Here's the video we recorded during the live video broadcast, enjoy and share with your friends!

[video=youtube_share;sEGwjCn9Iu0&hd=1"]1965 Mustang Fastback Machine Buffed Show Car...[/video]​

Later in the video Yancy zooms in on just about everyone using MULTIPLE TYPES OF TOOLS so you can see them in action on a real show car.


It's not that hard...
Creating a swirl free finish is not that hard, last Thursday night we taught a number of people how to machine polish for their very first time, including Trista,

Video & Pictures: 1965 Fastback Mustang - Gtechniq EXO Show Car Makeover!


Trista working with the rest of the team to machine polish this 1965 Mustang Fastback 2+2
TristaBuffingFortheFirstTime001.jpg



Trista removing swirls on a show car...
TristaBuffingFortheFirstTime002.jpg




I'd say she did a very good job for her first time...

65Stang025.jpg


65Stang034.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
I use Menzerna SIP with an orange pad and have been happy with the results. It has done everything I've asked it to do.
 
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