CarPro CQuartz vs CQuartz UK

Mystic195

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We purchased a 2015 M3 in Mineral Gray metallic late last year and have stored it over the winter. I am looking at coating it with either CQuartz or CQuartz UK and would like some feedback on which is better / easier to use, and any major difference. I see that the UK version is meant for harsher weather but that isn't a big issue because the car won't be out in anything but an occasional rain.

Would the CQuartz line be what you would use, or a similar product from a different company?

 
I have been wondering about this too. I've heard somewhere that the UK version is better for colder weather? Can anyone confirm this?
 
I personally would run the UK version, it contains more quartz, more quartz more protection!
 
Hi,
What a beautiful car, love the color too!
I think the boys all seem to lean towards the UK Version. I've used it, love it!

I'd suggest-advise to compliment that product with an extra assortment of other Carpro Goods, some extra MF Suede Applicators, a couple bottles of eraser, Reload, Iron-X, and Reset Shampoo.

And that if you want to go full CQuartz on everything, I can highly recommend CQuartz DLX for all plastic trim.

Not sure of what other tools you have on hand, but decon will be highly important, to install CQuartz onto pristine clean, deconned paint.

I've done such with one vehicle, and I think it totally wise and suggested that you stick with that brand's total system for maintainence-upkeep.

After such with washing-decon, most would no doubt recommend an ultra fine finishing polish from the likes of Carpro Reflect, Meguiars 205, Menzerna SF4000, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (a polish similar to Menz 4000) or another highly refined high quality finishing polish.

With the CQuartz, you'll be locking in what your paint finish quality looks like for a long time.
Hope this helps you.
 
My take on the quarts brothers is c quarts original applies in pristine weather
And c quarts uk will apply in less forgiving weather a little longer work time and more forgiving and my final advice is to have a pro do it
 
Thanks for the advice. The only detailer I can find locally details start at a $1,000 with CQuartz. The car really doesn't need the full detail. Has anyone else tried to do it themselves? I am just trying to reduce how easily the BMW paint swirls even with using the 2 bucket method and the right products.
 
Thanks for the advice. The only detailer I can find locally details start at a $1,000 with CQuartz. The car really doesn't need the full detail. Has anyone else tried to do it themselves? I am just trying to reduce how easily the BMW paint swirls even with using the 2 bucket method and the right products.

I applied Cquartz UK a few weeks ago to a friend's car. Application is pretty straightforward, just time consuming compared to a wax or sealant as there is more prep work.

We were applying it in less than ideal temps (probably around 50 deg in the garage) and noticed no issues. I suggest getting the kit that includes a small bottle of reload as well.
 
CQuartz Classic and UK are the same product EXCEPT for the fact that UK was formulated to be easier to apply in colder climates. Both offer the same in terms of UV protection, scratch resistance, hydrophobic qualities etc..

Classic got a bad rap a few years ago because of the application tolerance (almost requiring the perfect temp). Uk use to be a lot more forgiving (in most consumer's experience), and UK just took its fair share of the market. I can say that the reformulation and CarPro's constant evolution has made both application simple and user friendly and I would choose either of them without batting an eye.

Can it be done by a consumer? Absolutely!! Just need to understand the need and value of a proper decontamination and the prep required before application.

Would any professional apply it to an unpolished car? You could find your fair share of them but I personally would not. I am a CQuartz Finest Certified Installer and regardless if I coat using a consumer grade or Pro grade coatings, I will ALWAYS polish the paint. The paint polishing following decontamination assures full removal of defects which may only be seen under magnification but ultimately detract the eye. To the untrained eye it looks great, to the trained eye there is just "something" not quite 100%, and to the professional they can pick out the "unrefined" car 15 feet away. I just posted my latest addition to the coating family (a BRAND NEW F150 Platinum Edition) and although it just came off the showroom floor it was fully polished. The results just speak for themselves.
 
Nice M3. All of the above as well. UK has a larger application window. I would just learn the skill yourself though since you're on here.
 
Thanks for all of the advice. I am aware and willing to take the time to detail / polish the car out before it is done. Right now I have Menzerna SIP, Menzerna SuperFinish, and Menzerna Finishing Glaze, (PO115C), would the Reflect polish be redundant? I am already getting Eraser, Reload, Iron-X, the applicators and the microfiber cloths. Anything redundant or that I am missing?
 
Thanks for all of the advice. I am aware and willing to take the time to detail / polish the car out before it is done. Right now I have Menzerna SIP, Menzerna SuperFinish, and Menzerna Finishing Glaze, (PO115C), would the Reflect polish be redundant? I am already getting Eraser, Reload, Iron-X, the applicators and the microfiber cloths. Anything redundant or that I am missing?

I would just hit it with the SI1500/SF4000 combo, and I would only use the SI1500 in places that have heavier defects that the SF4000 wouldn't remove. The glaze is pointless prior to applying a coating as it is just a temporary filler and would be washed away when doing the panel wipedown with Eraser.
 
Thanks for all of the advice. I am aware and willing to take the time to detail / polish the car out before it is done. Right now I have Menzerna SIP, Menzerna SuperFinish, and Menzerna Finishing Glaze, (PO115C), would the Reflect polish be redundant? I am already getting Eraser, Reload, Iron-X, the applicators and the microfiber cloths. Anything redundant or that I am missing?

If you're saying you have Menzerna "Super Finish", and that product is actually SF-4000, then I would say you're Golden! At least for a product that will Amp Gloss to as best as it can get....provided that your DA Polisher, your proper selection of Polishing Pads, and Techniques are up to the task?

Lighting is very critical. If you cannot see what you are doing, all will be for naught.
It is both important for the final examination of your paint, and helps a whole lot when laying down a coat of the CQuartz Coating. Nor, without good lighting, you might see an area with a sleek or two you missed. Meaning that continued polishing would have gotten these out with more time, and critical inspection.

Sometimes this can be hard, you've been working all day, and want to be rewarded. The ole "Rome wasn't Built in a Day" applies. Take your time, perfect the paint, then you'll be finally ready for the "Icing on the Cake"!

CQuartz UK is basically not a very hard product at all to apply, provided to keep in mind the basic guidelines, temps applied, applied to paint that isn't still protected by some other durable sealant-wax, and applying and wiping within the proper time frame.

I slapped UK on my Tahoe last fall. This stuff went on like a coat of glass, spread easily, leveled pretty much instantly, and really almost didn't even need to come behind with a MF Towel to wipe to level possible high spots. The lighting was a precaution, an initial worry of how the product would behave, but it behaved extremely well. The lighting will perhaps help insure you have complete coverage on any panel you are applying to.

Take one panel at a time. Do not move on with further application until you are 100% happy that that panel looks great. Then move to the next around the vehicle.

The Roof is one logical choice besides the hood to start on. I like working my way down, most people do. Hood, Roof, Trunk. Then each side.

Have a couple very soft MF's for the wipe after application.

After that, and all is applied, step back, admire, but don't touch! Leave it alone for at least a good hour, and 2-3 might even be better if you have a garage.

Then you can come behind, and lovingly apply a nice layer of CP Reload! You will be very happy! I was, and still am!
 
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