Carpro CQUK 3.0 vs Gyeon Pure Evo

[nmatthew]

I want to try a new ceramic coating after I used up my bottle of Carpro Cquartz SIC. CQUk 3.0 has been long in my wishlist but last time it was out of stock and I got the SIC.

The SiC was quite good in terms of slickness and beading, but application for me was not that great since it required a longer wipe-off time. I also had a few experiences where I was unable to wipe off the residue even when I only let it sit for 2-3 minutes (maybe my garage’s environment is quite hot n humid).

For my next bottle which should I get? CQUK or Pure Evo? I’m interested in the ease of wipe on wipe off application of the Cquk, but the Pure Evo is on sale currently in my area. Also another consideration is Gyeon One is on sale in a very good price.

 

[The Guz]

Both are quartz based coatings and are very similar. Gyeon aimed Pure Evo as a competitor to CQUK 3.0. Gyeon One Evo is the little brother to Pure Evo with not as many solids(durability) as Pure Evo but is also a quartz based coating. Any of these are good options.

 

[DFB]

I can't speak for Cquartz UK 3.0, but I just applied Pure EVO and was very user friendly to use.

Flash time is flexible, meaning you don't need to micromanage its application.



The user experience and the "fantastic depth and pure candy gloss" sealed the deal for me.

 

[briarpatch]

Not sure if it's on your radar.....but Gyeon MOHS EVO is very user friendly

 

[Desertnate]

I've used both and currently have CQUK 3.0 on a couple of our vehicles and Pure EVO on my daily driver.

Bottom Line: Both are great coatings and you can't go wrong with either.

Here are a few comparison notes (Caveat: I've applied CQUK 4~5 times and Pure EVO once)

- I think CQUK is slightly easier to apply. The flashing is more noticeable and when properly flashed easier to buff out. Pure EVO because it's thicker is a bit harder to buff out and more sensitive to being properly flashed.
- On average Pure EVO is faster to apply due to shorter flash time. In cooler, humid conditions CQUK takes a long time to flash.
- If washed on a fairly constant basis, CQUK has lasted me 3+ years on a single layer. Pure EVO has been on my car almost a year and going strong. It's too new to know true durability.
- I think Pure EVO has the edge in looks. CQUK might look a bit more reflective, but Pure EVO has more depth for a "candied" or "dipped in glass" look.
- Pure EVO seems to be slightly more hydrophobic than CQUK, but it's really splitting hairs. Water tends to bead a bit tighter with Pure EVO and sheets a touch faster.

Again, you can't go wrong. If someone asks me to coat a car for them, or asks for a recommendation for a high-solids coating, my immediate answer would be CQUK. For me it's a known quantity and a consistently solid performer; the safe bet. I know I'll get a good result with it. I'm going to keep using Pure EVO as it looks spectacular on my WR Blue BRZ and I'm sure after a couple more applications, my confidence with it will equal CQUK.

 

[Loach]

Gyeon Mohs Evo is the one worth trying out if you're looking for a new coating. Its fluoro-modified polysilazane chemistry is connected to real improved results, and they have the research to back the science up: Just a moment...

I saw better hydrophobics, better durability, and much better chemical resistance compared to the previous Mohs. I would also skip Syncro, Skin's chemistry in that combo duo is not as compatible to what Mohs Evo offers by itself, you're going to cover up the chemical resistance properties.

CQUK 3.0 and Pure are darker coatings, leading to a richer and deeper finish on those darker style paints but I think Mohs Evo is likely the better protectant outside of aesthetics. And as Scott HD's hood tests show, Mohs Evo clearly outpaces Gyeon Pure Evo in hydrophobic durability.

CQUK 3.0 is a solid work horse across the board, but I am much more likely to gravitate towards Mohs Evo to try that new chemistry out.

 

[Desertnate]

CQUK 3.0 and Pure are darker coatings, leading to a richer and deeper finish on those darker style paints but I think Mohs Evo is likely the better protectant outside of aesthetics. And as Scott HD's hood tests show, Mohs Evo clearly outpaces Gyeon Pure Evo in hydrophobic durability.

Interesting. So if faced with a daily driver with white pearl paint, would you prefer Mohs EVO over CQUK or Pure? Asking for a friend...

How's the application of Mohs? I remember the previous version being a bit challenging and it required a special technique to get right.

 

[briarpatch]

How's the application of Mohs? I remember the previous version being a bit challenging and it required a special technique to get right.

Application was a breeze. MOHS gives a very clear indication when it's ready to remove. It was my first coating, and that's the reason I chose it. Only caveat would be that Gyeon recommends it go on 'thick'....and a 50ml bottle just got me through coating a Tundra CrewMax

 

[Desertnate]

Application was a breeze. MOHS gives a very clear indication when it's ready to remove. It was my first coating, and that's the reason I chose it. Only caveat would be that Gyeon recommends it go on 'thick'....and a 50ml bottle just got me through coating a Tundra CrewMax

Thanks. Good to know about the thinkness, but it makes sense. Seems to be a thing with Gyeon coatings. I noticed Pure used about 15mL of my 30mL bottle on a BRZ. That actually surprised me when the job was done. I figured a car that tiny would use a lot less. With CQUK I could do a BMW 4-series with about 15~20mL, a Dodge Charger with about 20mL and even a Toyota Highlander with about 25-ish.

If I try it, I'll be sure to buy the big bottle for my next project.

 

[Loach]

Interesting. So if faced with a daily driver with white pearl paint, would you prefer Mohs EVO over CQUK or Pure? Asking for a friend...

How's the application of Mohs? I remember the previous version being a bit challenging and it required a special technique to get right.

On pearl white I'd definitely go with Mohs Evo, try running two coats if you can stretch it. I waited a max 30 seconds after applying it before wiping it down and didn't have trouble. You're right about the previous formula, there were some paints that really didn't like the application as much compared to other paints where it was pretty much effortless. I wait much less before wiping off compared to CQUK and Pure, but even with the new formula Mohs Evo it's a much different feel to the spread, flashing, and wipeoff in comparison to SiO2 coatings.

If you end up running it let me know how it does. I just feel like the fluorine-modified polysilazane is a much more solid chemical foundation for performance improvement compared to anything that has to do with trying to add reduced graphene oxide into a silica-based coating.

 

[Bruno Soares]

Mohs Evo is super easy to use. It just requires you to be quick. There is no time to check your phone or do other things, you spread it and it wants to be removed. If you wait a little too long, it's not wiping off but then just apply more over it and wipe off. You can get a whole car done quite fast. And yes, it does use more product than others. I used 50ml to do my wife's Grand Cherokee (a couple of panels I had to do twice due to waiting too long to wipe off and then it left high spots so immediately doing those again fixed it w/o issues).

 

[The Guz]

After using so many coatings it’s hard to justify which is easier or harder to use.

I going the application for CQUK 3.0 and Pure Evo to be relatively forgiving. For me Pure Evo has a longer amount of time prior to wipe off. Yet UK 3.0 is easier to wipe off as Pure is on the thicker side. Pure will darken more than CQUK.

Again splitting hair as Gyeon did their homework to have Pure compete with CQUK 3.0.

As far as Mohs Evo i found that to be just as user friendly. The sweating effect allows the user to know when to wipe it off. What I’m finding hard to believe is how much others seem to be using during application. I have half a 50ml bottle applying one layer on a mid size sedan. This one will be slicker between the 3 mentioned in this thread. Unlike the above two, this does not darken the paint. Thus why it appears to give lighter colors a more crisp look. Essentially seeing the polished painted surface. Similar to Gtechniq CSL which is the competitor that Gyeon aimed for. Also Mohs has less of a contact angle than Pure or CQUK per the Gyeon rep telling me.

When it comes to Syncro Evo, this is where I tell folks be careful with this one because if you like slickness you will be disappointed. Unlike the previous version the reformulation to SiO2 has taking the slickness away from Skin. It will darken the paint a bit. Unlike the previous version, Evo is miles better with Skin Evo having better durability than Skin. The hydrophobic behavior is not as good but I’ll take the durability over that if I’m in the pursuit of durability.

Now this is the the fun part when it comes to white paint and being an owner of a white vehicle. One can not tell side by side what coating is on white. Meaning I put any of the above mentioned and one would not be able to differentiate between them all. This is partly due to the white paint. The same goes for light silver and beige. On darker paints it is more obvious.

To the op do you have the itch to try something new from what you are using? If so the Gyeon line is a good option. They did their homework with the new Evo line up.

 

[opie2]

Thats for the info guz.

I really like pure evo, only used it on 4 vehicles now. But you and a couple others have me wanting to give mohs evo a try. The slickness and crisp look has me interested. I just really liked the time forgiving nature of pure. Wont hurt to try something new though.

Maybe the buick will be the test vehicle this spring. Normally id want pure since its a dark color. But being that its pure black i think mohs might actually show it well.

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[briarpatch]

. What I’m finding hard to believe is how much others seem to be using during application. I have half a 50ml bottle applying one layer on a mid size sedan..

After I was done, I got to thinking about the application process.....more specifically, my application process. Once I had the applicator primed, I probably did not need to add as much to it as I moved around the truck. In my head, I just kept hearing 'put it on thick'...that, combined with my lack of experience with coatings, likely led to me basically running out as I finished. That being said, it is a fairly large truck, with a lot of real estate to cover. Even if I'd gone lighter on the application, I'm not convinced I'd have had that much left over.

 

[nmatthew]

Thanks for all the help guys.
Finally bought CQUK and applied it on my friend's BMW 5series

Had a great experience applying it. Very easy to use (almost as easy as Cancoat), far easier compared to Cquartz sic. Looks was great too.
Planning to try to top uk with Sic.

I guess Pure evo might be the next bottle to get then.

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[opie2]

Thanks for all the help guys.
Finally bought CQUK and applied it on my friend's BMW 5series

Had a great experience applying it. Very easy to use (almost as easy as Cancoat), far easier compared to Cquartz sic. Looks was great too.
Planning to try to top uk with Sic.

I guess Pure evo might be the next bottle to get then.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Never tried carpro coatings. Im gonna be using pure evo this weekend, also testing out mohs evo for the first time too

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[opie2]

For me Pure Evo has a longer amount of time prior to wipe off. Yet UK 3.0 is easier to wipe off as Pure is on the thicker side.

For whatever reason today, pure evo had me working harder than i need to.

Opened this bottle just over a week ago and used some of it. Used more of it today on the cab of a tilt bed. First time i had an issue with pure evo wipeoff. Did not matter if i waited 30 sec or ten minutes...it was tacky as hell. Yes..it did flash.

Im guessing temp/humidity was the culprit?
Idk, i was frustrated.

Usually i never have any haziness apon initial wipeoff, but today i did..it seemed smeary. It didnt matter how much or how little i used.

The longer i waited, the worse it got. Eneded up doing an initial wipe right after flash, then waited minutes after that to do final wipe.

Whats yoir thoughts based on above discription? Thanks

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[The Guz]

Hard to say. Could have been the paint, temp and/or humidity.

 

[Desertnate]

For whatever reason today, pure evo had me working harder than i need to.

Opened this bottle just over a week ago and used some of it. Used more of it today on the cab of a tilt bed. First time i had an issue with pure evo wipeoff. Did not matter if i waited 30 sec or ten minutes...it was tacky as hell. Yes..it did flash.

Im guessing temp/humidity was the culprit?
Idk, i was frustrated.

Usually i never have any haziness apon initial wipeoff, but today i did..it seemed smeary. It didnt matter how much or how little i used.

The longer i waited, the worse it got. Eneded up doing an initial wipe right after flash, then waited minutes after that to do final wipe.

Whats yoir thoughts based on above discription? Thanks

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

This sounds a lot like the bottle may not have sealed quite as tight as you thought.

I experienced similar streaking, stickiness, and really rapid flash times on a couple coatings that had been sitting in an open bottle for probably too long. I have a feeling Pure EVO doesn't have the same shelf life as some others.

Last fall I applied a second coat of Pure EVO to my car using the original bottle opened a few months before just to see if it would make the appearance "pop" even more than the first coat. I found that application to be streaky, and hazy too. To the point I think adding a second coat made the car look worse. At the time, I thought I may have messed up the prep work but hearing your experience I'm starting to wonder if it was actually the coating aging in the bottle.

 

[opie2]

This sounds a lot like the bottle may not have sealed quite as tight as you thought.

I experienced similar streaking, stickiness, and really rapid flash times on a couple coatings that had been sitting in an open bottle for probably too long. I have a feeling Pure EVO doesn't have the same shelf life as some others.

Last fall I applied a second coat of Pure EVO to my car using the original bottle opened a few months before just to see if it would make the appearance "pop" even more than the first coat. I found that application to be streaky, and hazy too. To the point I think adding a second coat made the car look worse. At the time, I thought I may have messed up the prep work but hearing your experience I'm starting to wonder if it was actually the coating aging in the bottle.

Interesting, ill never really know i guess.

I screwed that bit*h as tight as she'd go lol. I have also had bottles of pure evo sit on my shelf for months and then pulled them back out to use with no issues at all.

Either way the job is over with now, just reluctant to give pure evo another go. Might try out that mohs evo thats on the shelf first.

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