CarPro DLux coated plastics - What happens after two years?

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itsgn

New member
Nov 5, 2017
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Hi Everyone!

I've been researching this question on detailing forums for quite a while, but didn't find any conclusive information on it. The question is: What happens to plastic surfaces coated with DLux after 2 years?

The 2 years is not meant to be actually an exact time range, just referring to the semi-permanent nature of DLux, and to CarPro's claims of it lasting up to two years. Now, what I want to know is, that once this time period (which obviously changes from car to car, application to application, but should last generally around 2 years, according to manufacturer's claims), what happens to the plastic surface?

Some people say, that DLux oxidizes in a non-uniform way, which means that after those 2 years, or towards the end of those 2 years, it will have "peeled off" only partially from the plastics, leaving back a surface full of stains and residue marks. What's even worse, that according to some people, you can't even fix this, because you obviously can't polish plastic surfaces to remove DLux residues completely, and because you won't be able to recoat the surface properly either, because the remnants of the previous application (from 2 years ago) will partially reject the new coat - making it practically impossible to make the trim look decent ever again.

If this is true, that means that if DLux was applied to a trim in a fairly good condition (or possibly to a new car), that trim will actually look worse after the 2 years, than it did before DLux was applied to it, or than it would have looked if DLux wouldn't have been applied to it.

Is this really true? Does anyone have experience with preferably multiple DLux applications, that he has followed over such a lengthy time period? How did things end up after a few years? Did the coated trim fade uniformly, or did it stain? Were you able to recoat it with DLux again? How good did that second application look and how long did it last?

Would you apply DLux to trims on a car that does not look *that* bad yet, or is even possibly brand new?

All comments are welcome, and thanks for your help.
 
Because I’m also not sure what the results will be, I prefer to seal instead of coat trim. I use Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant.
 
I think this can happen with DLux and similar products, which is why you need to put it on really thin, like any coating. Otherwise you wind up with "high spots" that weather unevenly, or one big high spot that "silvers".
 
My numerous experiences with CQuartz DLX have all been favorable. I have coated both like new and in good condition trim, brand new trim like a new rear bumper step pad, some really beat hard plastic trim like the windshield wiper cowl on my truck. And also most recently a set of brand new clear coated aluminum wheels which are about 7-8 months old at this point and are surviving a Midwest winter with ease.

In no instance have I ever had this product peel, go blotchy, or fail in any sort of irregular manner.

I have commonly used topper products over DLX, like Reload, and Ech2O with no ill effects.

I've only noticed now after a few years that these trim pieces that have been treated have "naturally" aged and perhaps don't have quite the "just applied glowing, knock your eyes out" look to them is all. Just as any other regular trim dressing or treatment would look as time passed.

With this being said, CP DLX is most definitely my #1 choice for a plastic trim protectant. IMO, don't let its seeming high initial cost scare you away, this product IMO is worth every penny.
 
My very first experiences with a Trim Coating was with GTechniq C4. I had treated what I thought was a decent condition Rear Step Bumper Pad on my 1997 Tahoe (pictured)

I cleaned the part as good as possible with repeated applications and scrubbings with APC, Shampoo, Water Rinses, and thought I was good to go.

After initial application, the parts looked outstanding, and in fact I even did a photo shoot, and posted those pics here. After ample drying time of an entire afternoon with nice sunny and dry weather, my truck was recovered with a Covercraft NOAH Custom Fitted Cover.

About 2 weeks later, and wanting to do some other detailing processes on my truck it appeared that the C4 product had failed, the Rear Step Bumper Pad looked absolutely horrible and was turning white. And not just isolated blotchiness, it was the entire part.

There was no rectifying and salvaging the part, I had to order a brand new part and remove the entire Rear Step Bumper to install.

One of the USA GTehniq Reps saw my posts, contacted me privately, and offered to either replace the C4 product, or let me have my choice of any other GTehniq product.

I chose a small bottle of GTechniq EXO, and I gave that bottle to my autogeek friend here, DaveT435 as I knew he loves EXO.

When the new Step Pad was installed, I then switched to CQuartz DLX and immediately treated that part while it was still brand new. About a good 3 years have passed since, and I have had zero issues with DLX on that part, or any other parts such as door handles, side trim moldings, grill, headlights- tail lights, rear glass trim, rear corner trim, front Air Dam, side glass moldings, etc.

Is it probably due for a re-coat with DLX? Yes, sure, my entire truck is now due for full paint correction as there's some slight marring here and there from another Covercraft Cover I bought caused by high SW Winds (Weathershield HD) and as I previously mentioned, many trim parts on the vehicle could also use a fresh re-coat with DLX.

For my Truck's Paint, there will be only one choice, Carpro CQuartz UK again.

I regularly get very high compliment on my truck's overall condition, and as mentioned, this truck is a 1997 Model, took delivery of it in the fall of 1996. It's seen 6 Chicago Winters, 14 years of the Desert Southwest's blistering heat, and dust, and now again back in the Midwest since September.

This spring I'll try getting all done again, just need to order some fresh CQ UK, and DLX. Have everything else needed on hand.
 
MarkD51 said:
My very first experiences with a Trim Coating was with GTechniq C4. I had treated what I thought was a decent condition Rear Step Bumper Pad on my 1997 Tahoe (pictured)
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I also had bad experiences with C4 but/and later saw that explained by the mfr. as too heavy an application. Next time (and next car) I used DLux, applied really thin, and have had more of the "natural weathering" experience. So...I really can't say for sure whether it was the product or the technique, but as Rob from GTechniq said...if you think about C4 the same way you think about a coating on paint...and the terrible trouble you get into if you apply too heavy...you should apply those same thoughts to trim.

I also have to agree that using a product like WETS gets you away from all these worries.
 
MarkD51 said:
When the new Step Pad was installed, I then switched to CQuartz DLX and immediately treated that part while it was still brand new. About a good 3 years have passed since, and I have had zero issues with DLX on that part
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Couldn't be the reason for this, that with the old part you had really strongly bonded contaminants in the plastic part, which you couldn't remove even with your thorough cleaning process, but the brand new part didn't suffer from this? If that's the case, maybe DLux would give similarly bad results on an older part. Or did you try DLux also on other, older parts on the same car, with similar structure as your bumper, and they turned out to be okay, even after multiple years?

MarkD51 said:
Is it probably due for a re-coat with DLX? Yes, sure
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And by that, you mean that it has faded back to a state which it would have been presumably in if you wouldn't have coated it? Or does it show symptoms similar to what I described (ie. uneven oxidization and streaks)? It would be also nice if you'd let us know afterwards how the re-coat turned out.
 
MarkD51 said:
With this being said, CP DLX is most definitely my #1 choice for a plastic trim protectant. IMO, don't let its seeming high initial cost scare you away, this product IMO is worth every penny.
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The cost is not a factor for me. What I'm really worried about is ending up with plastic parts that look possibly even worse than if I'd have just not coated or dressed them at all, but now with no recourse, but replacing them, as supposedly a re-application cannot adequately resolve the situation.
 
BSoares said:
Because I’m also not sure what the results will be, I prefer to seal instead of coat trim. I use Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant.
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My problem with dressings is, that on exterior surfaces they seem to develop streaks rather quickly where the rain water is running down on the trim, which makes re-application necessary even more frequently, than otherwise.
 
itsgn said:
The cost is not a factor for me. What I'm really worried about is ending up with plastic parts that look possibly even worse than if I'd have just not coated or dressed them at all, but now with no recourse, but replacing them, as supposedly a re-application cannot adequately resolve the situation.
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That’s exactly how I feel in regards to trying to protect brand new headlights. This Meguiars Headlight Coating says it “also protects New headlights”

a42a2a7525d876933a0834987f2b2efd.jpg


But I know from experience that this stuff only lasts so long [1 year tops, usually 6-8 months] And what’s it going to look like when that 1 year comes along? And I going to have to aggressively polish or sand the remnants of this coating off because it may look worse than if I hadn’t applied it to begin with? All I know for sure is headlights only look brand new once, and when they’re screwed they’ll never quite be the same ever again [restoring them every few months doesn’t equal same as new in my book]

I’m not as concerned about plastic trim, I’ll coat it without worrying too much about it. Except for the trim around windows. That stuff is among the very last things I ever decide to mess with. It’s easy to screw that up and screw it bad.
 
itsgn said:
Couldn't be the reason for this, that with the old part you had really strongly bonded contaminants in the plastic part, which you couldn't remove even with your thorough cleaning process, but the brand new part didn't suffer from this? If that's the case, maybe DLux would give similarly bad results on an older part. Or did you try DLux also on other, older parts on the same car, with similar structure as your bumper, and they turned out to be okay, even after multiple years?


And by that, you mean that it has faded back to a state which it would have been presumably in if you wouldn't have coated it? Or does it show symptoms similar to what I described (ie. uneven oxidization and streaks)? It would be also nice if you'd let us know afterwards how the re-coat turned out.
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Pretty much every entire plastic part on the truck would've been treated equally-identically and with the very same products used on any given occasion as years passed. Meaning, I'd do everything, not just a singular part, and neglect the rest.

I wouldn't necessarily say that all my trim has reverted back to pre-DLX in regards to how it looks at present. In fact with a wash, and then a simple spray application of a product like Carpro Reload, my trim looks very nice indeed, like new.

As for the problems I personally experienced with GTechniq C4, yes, I agree that the product may have possibly been not to blame? That there are many members here who have gotten the desired end results and exemplary protection from this product.

As for me to guess what the problem was, I don't think I'll ever truly know?
 
itsgn said:
My problem with dressings is, that on exterior surfaces they seem to develop streaks rather quickly where the rain water is running down on the trim, which makes re-application necessary even more frequently, than otherwise.
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With what you notice with some dressings on trim pieces, I have not ever experienced that with CQuartz DLX.

Yes, Wolfgang WETS is a very nice product indeed, I especially love this product on things like Rubber Weatherstrip, and use it exclusively for such on my vehicles.

Another pretty decent product for Trim, no matter the color because it is clear, is Ultima UTTG.
 
I've never been extremely anal when applying CQuartz DLX any time I ever used it. In fact most times I've been pretty heavy with the applications.

Like for instance when I treated the really ugly lookng finned Windshield Wiper Cowl on my Truck which is murder to detail and make look nice.

I "dribbled" the product onto the cowl, and spread with a 1/2" wide Artist's Brush. I way over applied the product, but again no peeling, cracking, blotching, zero since.

Same when I treated the set of brand new 16" Cheapo Wheels I then bought for my truck last Summer. Coming back to the Midwest, I knew 22's with street tires would be a bad choice, so back to the 16's with BFG All Terrain TA/s 275/70-16".

Again, wasn't too anal with quantities, but what I have found with DLX, and how I've applied it a number of times, I apply with the MF Suede MF Sheets, then don't touch period! That DLX can start getting grabby quite quickly, and to overly touch and monkey with the application you can get streaking and smearing.

View attachment 62196
 
Eldorado2k said:
That’s exactly how I feel in regards to trying to protect brand new headlights.
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Generally, headlights can be polished just fine. So, unless you put something on them that deeply penetrates the plastic and damages it, any coating you put on, can be also removed from them. Not so generally with plastic trim, especially if it's textured. Once you put something on that, it will be practically impossible to remove it mechanically, because you can't use a polisher on that, without damaging the texture and the material in general.
 
itsgn said:
Headlights can be polished just fine. So, unless you put something on them that deeply penetrates the plastic and damages it, any coating you put on it, can be removed from them. Not so generally with plastic trim, especially if it's textured. Once you put something on that, it will be practically impossible to remove it, because you can't use a polisher on that, without damaging the texture and the material in general.
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That Meguiars Headlight Coating is basically clearcoat paint. I wouldn’t think that’s going to be the easiest thing to get off. I’ve had to sand it off headlights before in order to remove it and restore them back again from yellowing/hazing.

And if I have to sand it in order to remove it, how safe is the factory UV coating that was doing perfectly fine on the headlights to begin with going to fair? My guess is not very good.
 
Eldorado2k said:
And if I have to sand it in order to remove it, how safe is the factory UV coating that was doing perfectly fine on the headlights to begin with going to fair? My guess is not very good.
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The point is, that as long as you can polish something, you can definitely remove whatever coat you put on it. It might take some time or some heavy compounding - maybe even sanding - to get the stuff off, but in the end you can get rid of it completely, and start anew, with whatever you want. The fact, that you also possibly have to remove at least some part of the factory coating isn't really a factor here, because most coatings provide UV protection anyway - and probably even more, than the factory sealant does.

However, if you can't polish the part and/or remove the stuff you put on it previously completely, you won't be able to apply anything else properly either, as now the remnants of the previous coating will also interfere with the bonding process of the new one. And that leaves you with less options, if any, and/or will force you to re-apply whatever product you might still be able to get on the surface, far more often, that you'd have to if you could have just started with a freshly polished, contaminant-free and residue-free surface every time.

So, that's why I wouldn't worry about trying anything on a headlight, because the latter can be polished (unless it's some very unconventional one, with ridged surface and/or crevices). However, you can't do that with textured bumpers, plastic door and sill inserts, or the plastic windshield cowls - which is the reason why you would want to think twice before applying any coating on those.
 
I've used DLUX, Gtechniq C4 and Gyeon Trim. They are all about the same in terms of application. A little goes a long way for all of them. As far as appearance, for me the nod goes to C4, DLUX and then Trim. C4 and DLUX are very close and give a more natural look and Trim has a hint of sheen which does not make it look bad.

I have used Gyeon Cure and CarPro Ech20 on them with no issues. If anything a product like this will extend the life of whatever coating is used on the trim. One thing I noticed with C4 is it tended to spot more than Trim. I can't recall if I had the same issue with DLUX but I will be trying it again.

As far s removal, I have used Optimum Hyper Polish on plastic trim as it does not stain trim. It seemed to remove whatever was left when I tested this out.

Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant is a fine alternative.
 
itsgn said:
The fact, that you also possibly have to remove at least some part of the factory coating isn't really a factor here, because most coatings provide UV protection anyway - and probably even more, than the factory sealant does.
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I see it as a major factor.
For 1, the factory coating on headlights is far superior than any commonly found coating that we see for sale. 1-2 yrs. doesn’t cut it. Most factory headlights can easily go 4-5yrs. without any care before they show signs of any hazing. Try going 4-5 yrs. with 1 of these popular coatings, I don’t think so.

And I shouldn’t have to be a complete expert on headlight coatings in order to have found the 1 coating that truly works better than the rest when the factory coating is already on there and I didn’t have to find, buy, or apply it. Tedious act of applying a professional grade coating onto headlights.. Who wants to do all that?

A friend of mine who knows how to take care of his vehicle like we do owns a 2002 BMW and thanks to him periodically applying sealant on his headlights since day 1, his headlights still look brand new. I’ve never heard of anyone report of a headlights restoration that lasted 16yrs. The point is the factory coating is unmatched in quality and durability.

Not to mention, some of these headlights are expensive as hell. $1,800 dollars each headlight on some BMW’s . $1,200+ for Corvette lights.. If that’s what they cost you best believe I want to preserve them like new. Not lose the factory coating for some 1-2yr stuff.
 
Your points are taken wisely, thank you!

But, wouldn't one think, that some such coating like GT C4, DLX, or others would act as a sacrificial protective coat, just like a wax or sealant, or coating acts upon a painted surface? That in the end and as years pass you'll still come out the winner with better overall protection? Or no?
 
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