Carpro Eraser vs Other Brand IPA

[trailrunz]

Planning ahead for my next major detail and stocked up on supplies this week. I'm going to try my first attempt at a ceramic coating on my F150 and bought some CarPro products. I bought Iron X, Cquartz UK and Reload.

My truck currently has a layer of Wolfgang SiO2 Sealant and Collinite 845 wax which will be 6 months old by the time I apply the Cquartz. I currently own a bottle of Mothers CMX Surface Prep with a lot of product left; will this work in the place of a bottle of Carpro Eraser? I didn't buy Eraser but everything I'm reading says to use it first...just wondering if most IPA products are created equal?

Lastly, will the combination of a hand wash, claybar, Iron X and Surface Prep be enough to remove the remaining wax & sealant and get the paint ready for the Cquartz? Or do I need to also polish the paint with a DA before the coating? I do not have any swirls or need to do any paint correction...but willing to take the extra step if necessary.

Thanks for the info,

 

[TroyScherer]

While I think many will tell you that most all of these Surface Prep products are the same and to use whatever you have and want; I have found that there is a difference in some being stronger, slicker, having other added prep bonding products built in, etc.

Personally I have found the best results from using the correct prep product for the coating base don the mgft recommendations. This is also one of the first questions asked if you have a bad experience or durability from a coating.


If you want to be absolutely sure you don't have any sealant or wax left on the vehicle a prep polish is your best bet. In my use clay bars don't necessarily remove anything other than contaminates and Iron-X and a car was are the same. If a sealant or wax is still holding strong and prep spray won't necessarily remove them either.

 

[DUBL0WS6]

I'd say that any wax remover would remove 845 and Wolfgang. Any ISO will clean the paint. As to whether their are specific bonding agents in Eraser, you'd have to ask the manufacturer.

 

[vaca22]

I use(d) Mother's CMX Surface because it's what's around. Seemed ok, but as Troy mentioned above I think some are stronger than others; Mother's CMX I believe is rather gentle.

Gtechniq's PW is supposed to be really strong.

 

[trailrunz]

I use(d) Mother's CMX Surface because it's what's around. Seemed ok, but as Troy mentioned above I think some are stronger than others; Mother's CMX I believe is rather gentle.

Gtechniq's PW is supposed to be really strong.

Thanks for the info so far.

As far as a polish, is CarPro Essence a good option just to keep synergy going?

 

[noorth]

Thanks for the info so far.

As far as a polish, is CarPro Essence a good option just to keep synergy going?

Many people will give you different answers that's per the course. I'm not a professional so take my views with a grain if salt.

I don't have direct experience but i was told in a private email by someone in the car care products business that these primer polishes are not that great at "adding" durability. I even seen a post by a professional detailer that he as experienced a decrease in durability.

Besides that essence doesn't have much cut, i would use a true 1 step myself like 3D One. It will cut a lot more and still leave a wax ready finish with a medium pad on most any paint.

And even another thing to keep in mine i seen another professional say primer polishes give average joes the chance to really up their game on the finish. They do finish great.

But personally if i was going to go over a car with a polisher once it would be a medium cut polish.

 

[Rsurfer]

Many people will give you different answers that's per the course. I'm not a professional so take my views with a grain if salt.

I don't have direct experience but i was told in a private email by someone in the car care products business that these primer polishes are not that great at "adding" durability. I even seen a post by a professional detailer that he as experienced a decrease in durability.

Besides that essence doesn't have much cut, i would use a true 1 step myself like 3D One. It will cut a lot more and still leave a wax ready finish with a medium pad on most any paint.

And even another thing to keep in mine i seen another professional say primer polishes give average joes the chance to really up their game on the finish. They do finish great.

But personally if i was going to go over a car with a polisher once it would be a medium cut polish.

What about the oils left behind by some polishes?

 

[Desertnate]

The advantage, as I understand them to products like Essence and Gyeon Primer is the fact you don't need to do a surface prep afterwards. When using a "normal" polish, you'll need to use a surface prep afterwards to remove all the polishing oils and ensure the surface is as clean as possible before applying a coating.

As for Eraser vs the others? I've used Gyeon Prep and Eraser. Both worked well and I used them with several different brands of coatings just fine. The Gyeon has more lubrication, but I think Eraser cleaned better (IMO). Both are good and to say one is better than the other is splitting hairs.

 

[noorth]

What about the oils left behind by some polishes?

Not sure of your question. I assume your referring to a panel wipe? I always use one but it seems products are popping up that claim you can go right over the polish without waiting.

Many professionals do a light IPA "dust" wipe the next day when they use gyeon. I know i would.

 

[The Guz]

Planning ahead for my next major detail and stocked up on supplies this week. I'm going to try my first attempt at a ceramic coating on my F150 and bought some CarPro products. I bought Iron X, Cquartz UK and Reload.

My truck currently has a layer of Wolfgang SiO2 Sealant and Collinite 845 wax which will be 6 months old by the time I apply the Cquartz. I currently own a bottle of Mothers CMX Surface Prep with a lot of product left; will this work in the place of a bottle of Carpro Eraser? I didn't buy Eraser but everything I'm reading says to use it first...just wondering if most IPA products are created equal?

Lastly, will the combination of a hand wash, claybar, Iron X and Surface Prep be enough to remove the remaining wax & sealant and get the paint ready for the Cquartz? Or do I need to also polish the paint with a DA before the coating? I do not have any swirls or need to do any paint correction...but willing to take the extra step if necessary.

Thanks for the info,

Given that this is the first time you are using a coating, I would invest in Eraser along with at a minimum a polish to remove the protection you currently have to have a clean surface the coating can bond to regardless if you don't have any swirls. Or we will be seeing a post 6 months later how underwhelmed you are with the performance of the coating.

You can quickly zip over the surface with a polishing pad and be done. No need to focus on correction since your paint is defect free to your liking.

Yvan has some good information and this is worth watching.

Many people will give you different answers that's per the course. I'm not a professional so take my views with a grain if salt.

I don't have direct experience but i was told in a private email by someone in the car care products business that these primer polishes are not that great at "adding" durability. I even seen a post by a professional detailer that he as experienced a decrease in durability.

Besides that essence doesn't have much cut, i would use a true 1 step myself like 3D One. It will cut a lot more and still leave a wax ready finish with a medium pad on most any paint.

And even another thing to keep in mine i seen another professional say primer polishes give average joes the chance to really up their game on the finish. They do finish great.

But personally if i was going to go over a car with a polisher once it would be a medium cut polish.

Take it with a grain of salt. Too many factors in prep and unless this person has real proof or actual data then his claim has no merit. How many other users have had no issues with a primer polish. This goes for professional detailers. How would they know unless they see the car daily and can see what is going on. Who knows what the client does with their personal vehicle.

I don't listen to any of these people but rather use my own personal experience. And based on my experience a primer polish has no negative impact on a coating.

The advantage, as I understand them to products like Essence and Gyeon Primer is the fact you don't need to do a surface prep afterwards. When using a "normal" polish, you'll need to use a surface prep afterwards to remove all the polishing oils and ensure the surface is as clean as possible before applying a coating.

Still recommended for Essence. Gyeon needs 24 hours before coating but recommended to panel wipe if not able to wait that 24 hours. Dr. Beaseley's doesn't require a panel wipe for their primer polishes which I have also used.

 

[TTQ B4U]

I use Optimum Brand panel wipe and love it. Yvan also discusses making your own and that version works too. I buy Optimum by the gallon as it's pretty cost effective.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

I recently had a couple cars to do and since it was friends and family i decided to experiment on their cars.

Normally use CarPro and Gyeon prep products. Blackfire was 40% off on AG so gave their panel wipe and Iron remover a try.

Was pleasantly surprise that the both performed as well as Eraser and IronX. Bought gallons as I figured I’d use for decon washes but would not hesitate to use pre polish.

And as for polishing yes, do it. As forcwhat to use I would not use any polish with “cut” if your paint is defect free. I use Essence under any coating I use. It even has decent cut with a MF or orange pad if attacking minor swirling.

In your case Car Pro’s gloss pads and essence would be great.0


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[DUBL0WS6]

These products seem similar in concept to Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent. That has been around for quite a while. Not exactly sure when it was introduced.

I guess it all depends on the chemistry of a product line. It's safest to stay in a line for best compatibility.