CarPro Lite

[rover137]

Hi all

i have decided to take the plunge and have a go at an entry level ceramic coat, CarPro lite.

I like the idea of this as it only lasts a year so I can polish my paint annually with my newly acquired DAs as well as try any new products that might come out anytime soon in this ever evolving industry. I have some application questions I was hoping some people with some experience could help with before putting in an order:

1. Are 2 coats optimal? My garage is tiny and while I have portable lighting it is impossible for it to be ideal without spending a lot of money. I was going to back out after the first coat and check for high spots, then go again. It says to wait an hr for a second coat but is there a timeframe that is too long to wait?

2. I intend on buying the kit with the two orange mitt applicators. Are these both intended to be used for one coat? Or one coat each?

3. I intend on buying a block and suede applicators to do my wife’s car (large 150ml bottle) and maybe mine again around the 9-10 month mark. How many applicators per coat? I was thinking 2, so 4 for 2 coats? And is the block reusable? Towels and applicators are a no from what I understand... although there is some debate around this.

4. How many towels will be needed? I’ve read 6-8 towels - so is that per coat? So 2 coats could be 12-14 towels? Seems like a lot.

Thanks all!!

 

[The Guz]

Hi all

i have decided to take the plunge and have a go at an entry level ceramic coat, CarPro lite.

I like the idea of this as it only lasts a year so I can polish my paint annually with my newly acquired DAs as well as try any new products that might come out anytime soon in this ever evolving industry. I have some application questions I was hoping some people with some experience could help with before putting in an order:

1. Are 2 coats optimal? My garage is tiny and while I have portable lighting it is impossible for it to be ideal without spending a lot of money. I was going to back out after the first coat and check for high spots, then go again. It says to wait an hr for a second coat but is there a timeframe that is too long to wait?

Cquartz Lite is a great product. With proper maintenance it can last longer than a year. It just does not die off at 1 year mark.

It is recommended to apply 2 coats 45 min to 1 hour apart. Go get yourself a braun light at harbor freight so you don't have to constantly pull out the car.

2. I intend on buying the kit with the two orange mitt applicators. Are these both intended to be used for one coat? Or one coat each?

By the time you go around the car, you can go right into the second coat. Starting with the first panel you started. Especially if this is your first time as you will be going slower. One applicator can be used for both coats.

3. I intend on buying a block and suede applicators to do my wife’s car (large 150ml bottle) and maybe mine again around the 9-10 month mark. How many applicators per coat? I was thinking 2, so 4 for 2 coats? And is the block reusable? Towels and applicators are a no from what I understand... although there is some debate around this.

Keep in mind that it has a short shelf life. Unopened it has a 1 year shelf life. Once opened it is less than that. Roughly around the 6-9 month mark before it becomes unusable. So you may want to consider doing both before that time frame.

If you have one applicator you can use it then. The other option is to buy a couple more of the included applicators or you can get the typical block and suede. You will be switching the suede every couple panels so more suedes won't hurt. Especially if you decide to coat the wheels. You can get them pre-cut and I would get a couple sets or you can pick up a pack of the 16 x 16 towels and make your own 4x4 suede applicators.

One block is fine.

4. How many towels will be needed? I’ve read 6-8 towels - so is that per coat? So 2 coats could be 12-14 towels? Seems like a lot.

Thanks all!!

Always have more towels than needed. It is going to depend on the size of the car. Start off with a set of 10 towels. You won't need to be using 12 towels per coat. I would say on average 6-8 for both coats.

 

[vaca22]

I'm going to hijack this thread slightly because of the mention (thanks Guz) of the Braun light. I just looked it up online and it's something like $35 - CHEAP.

Would there be any real benefit to going with the Scrangrip industry standard, or will this Braun light suffice for good inspection lighting?

 

[The Guz]

I'm going to hijack this thread slightly because of the mention (thanks Guz) of the Braun light. I just looked it up online and it's something like $35 - CHEAP.

Would there be any real benefit to going with the Scrangrip industry standard, or will this Braun light suffice for good inspection lighting?

Scangrip is still better with the different color modes. The HF Braun will get you by.

 

[rover137]

Hi Guz

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply!

Is it doable to get around the car with coat 1 in and hour (even for a first timer)? I am in Australia, so don't really have access to that Braun light you speak of. I do however have a rather expensive swirl light which is very similar to the Scangrip (has 3 temp settings) which i planning on using (use lowest temp setting). I've read that this sort of light is not ideal and that diffused light is better - so i was planning to quickly pull the car out once, maybe twice to pick up anything my handheld didn't catch during application.

Yeah, i have read it can last longer than a year and that the bottle has a 1 year shelf life. I didn't realise it was less than that once open - but, makes sense. I guess i could always chemically decon both cars around the 6 month mark and apply again? tbh I probably wont and just buy something new to try. Just feels like such a waste of product as i will have over half a bottle left. I currently have multiple bottles of the previous sio2 spray sealant i was using that i'm not sure not to do with. Was thinking of relegating to wheels on top of Lite.

As an aside - do you know the shelf life of Iron X? opened and unopened?

So the one orange mitt applicator can be used for both coats? So, in effect, i could double coat my car with one applicator, then double coat my wife's car with the other? I was thinking it would start to harden after the first coat and maybe it was one applicator per coat? I can't find any of the included applicators here in Aus but there are plenty of good brand suedes and blocks available at the various online retailers i get most of my gear from. I can't find any of the larger suedes. I was definitely planning on coating wheels and i have bought a pack of 10 cheap little round applicators that are meant to be perfect for this. My car is a hot hatch (soft black paint wah) and the Wife's car is a Medium sized SUV (white)

Block can be used repeatedly?

For towels i probably have 40-50 really nice TRC towels (multiple variants) i use for other applications but am planning on buying a bulk 24 pack thing (at a good price) which is a dedicated low GSM (250 i think) towel for coating. Sounds like i can get away with just the one 24 pack for 2 cars, double coated. If i do run out of these coating towels I can just dip into my other supplies for a towel or two.


For maintenance - I want to avoid reload if possible. I was going to use Elixir monthly as a drying aid and maybe Elixir cut at 1:1 weekly for a more economical drying aid which was suggested by a professional to me.

For washing - I just bought a big jug of Hyper Wash so was planning to use this weekly (and for snow) and use Reset maybe every 3-4 weeks.

Thanks for your help.

 

[The Guz]

Is it doable to get around the car with coat 1 in and hour (even for a first timer)? I am in Australia, so don't really have access to that Braun light you speak of. I do however have a rather expensive swirl light which is very similar to the Scangrip (has 3 temp settings) which i planning on using (use lowest temp setting). I've read that this sort of light is not ideal and that diffused light is better - so i was planning to quickly pull the car out once, maybe twice to pick up anything my handheld didn't catch during application.

Yes it is doable to get around a car in 1 hour or even less. Depends on the size. CQ Lite is wipe on wipe off. I forgot to mention it is a bit tacky to wipe off but it is also forgiving when it comes to high spots.

Diffused light is better but a hand held also works. I am sure what you have will be fine. Play around with the light and you will find the right brightness and angle.

Yeah, i have read it can last longer than a year and that the bottle has a 1 year shelf life. I didn't realise it was less than that once open - but, makes sense. I guess i could always chemically decon both cars around the 6 month mark and apply again? tbh I probably wont and just buy something new to try. Just feels like such a waste of product as i will have over half a bottle left. I currently have multiple bottles of the previous sio2 spray sealant i was using that i'm not sure not to do with. Was thinking of relegating to wheels on top of Lite.

You don't need to reapply it again in 6 months as long as you maintain it. The true durability is 1.5 years. A chemical decon will be fine followed by whatever maintenance product you are using. Use it on wheels, the side and rear glass as well. You may want to consider coating the door jambs as well. Giving you ideas on areas to coat.

As an aside - do you know the shelf life of Iron X? opened and unopened?

I am not aware of one.

So the one orange mitt applicator can be used for both coats? So, in effect, i could double coat my car with one applicator, then double coat my wife's car with the other? I was thinking it would start to harden after the first coat and maybe it was one applicator per coat? I can't find any of the included applicators here in Aus but there are plenty of good brand suedes and blocks available at the various online retailers i get most of my gear from. I can't find any of the larger suedes. I was definitely planning on coating wheels and i have bought a pack of 10 cheap little round applicators that are meant to be perfect for this. My car is a hot hatch (soft black paint wah) and the Wife's car is a Medium sized SUV (white)

Yes as I mentioned going around the car you are essentially ready to go back around starting from your original panel. It won't harden on the applicator until later on. You could always use the other applicator if you have to.

Any suede will work (ie Gyeon, CarPro, etc). The same for the block. The Gyeon and CarPro blocks are a good size for the hand since some blocks are slimmer.

Those applicators should work on the wheels. I am going to take a guess that these are the make up type applicators. Foam will work as well. The Gtechniq applicators are similar to the carpro applicators. The autofiber coating saver applicators are great. I am just getting to the point that there are plenty of options for applicators.

Block can be used repeatedly?

Yes. You are applying product with the suede after all.

For towels i probably have 40-50 really nice TRC towels (multiple variants) i use for other applications but am planning on buying a bulk 24 pack thing (at a good price) which is a dedicated low GSM (250 i think) towel for coating. Sounds like i can get away with just the one 24 pack for 2 cars, double coated. If i do run out of these coating towels I can just dip into my other supplies for a towel or two.

Edgeless 300 towels are great towels for leveling the coating and are my go to coating towels. 250 is ok but they will load up with coating a bit faster. Give it a try but if you get a little towel marring then get a more plush towel.

The other option is use CarPro Essence and let that cure overnight and the come back with a light prep wipe with Eraser prior to coating. Essence is great for soft paints and makes it less likely to marr the softer paint. Just a suggestion.

For maintenance - I want to avoid reload if possible. I was going to use Elixir monthly as a drying aid and maybe Elixir cut at 1:1 weekly for a more economical drying aid which was suggested by a professional to me.

Perfectly fine to use Elixir as a maintenance product and drying aid. No need to cut it 1:1. It is already going to be diluted once it hits the wet panel. You also don't need to drench the panel with product. Maybe a spray or two depending on the size of the panel.

The only time you don't use Elixir is after applying the coating. Reload is still the better option after the second layer to protect it during the curing time over the week. You can then use Elixir from the first wash on.

For washing - I just bought a big jug of Hyper Wash so was planning to use this weekly (and for snow) and use Reset maybe every 3-4 weeks.

Either wash will work just fine. For personal use Reset is not that expensive.

Your fellow Aussie demonstrating it. Sandro goes into good detail on application. You will enjoy the coatings performance.

 

[rover137]

Thanks again - much appreciated.

Ok cool, yeah i have been doing a bit of research and the wipe on/off application appeals to me. I was expecting tackiness, but compared to all the sealants/waxes i've used this will be a bit of change up.

Yeah, between that and the LEDs i have on a stand i should get by. Might even put baking paper over the LEDs or point them at the wall to soften them up a bit.

1.5 yrs is decent for what it is. Door jambs are a good idea actually - probably the most neglected area of my car! If I do wait for the full duration (let's say i get 1.5 years), will a very light polish (say Scholl's S40) be enough to remove it at this stage to go again with my product of choice?

Ok cool, this works out well re one mitt applicator per car. I will still buy some suedes and a block for future applications and/or products. The CarPro blocks are hard to get atm here for some reason. Gyeon i could get, but i actually just put an order in a Gyeon supplier so I probably won't do another one just for a block. There is another well known one that i might grab, but it is a little slimmer as you say.

Spot on! I picked up a cheap kit of the make up type applicators for the wheels. I actually have a heap of the Meguiar's yellow foam pads i no longer use since getting a DA. I have been using those for tire shine and a few other things.

I actually only have 2-3 Edgeless 300s but i have around 20 Edgeless 365s which i was going to use for polish residue removal. They are a little pricey here in Aus to be using for coating removal. I can't justify spending $40+ per car just on coating towels I will be chucking out. But, my car does have soft black paint which is a bit of a concern and i don't want to reintroduce marring that i just spent 20+ hrs removing. These are the towels that are popular (Sandro also uses) here for coating removal:

BLIZZARD General Purpose Microfiber 24 pack

– Waxit Car Care

Apologies if I am not meant to be posting these products here- Happy to remove.

Yeah, i wasn't going to use Elixir until about 30 days in. I guess I was looking at cutting 1:1 as i wash our 2 cars weekly, sometimes twice a week each, to make it a little more economical for use with each wash. The main purpose for using weekly is to provide additional lube, rather than for additional protection.

I was hoping to avoid reload (depending on the weather) as i would rather just have the coating on other than Elixir. I will see what the weather does! It is a garaged car but it does leave the garage 3-4 times a week so it might be unavoidable.

Yeah, i would just use Reset as it is for personal use but i just bought 4L or Hyper Wash before deciding on CarPro Lite so looking to alternate. I also have about 8L of other wash variants. This hobbie is financially crippling!

Have seen that vid many times! I've had a couple chats with Sandro about a few various things - he is a top bloke with a lot of knowledge and passion for detailing and contributes greatly to the detailing community here!

Currently have Megs Hybrid Ceramic Wax on and to me, it seems to perform quite well so i am looking forward to stepping it up a notch!

I was also wondering, for other steps in my process - I have previously been using Meguiar's Last Touch (D155) cut at 1:1 for clay lube as i have a big bottle of this. Have been doing some research on how lubes with polymers are no longer ideal. To negate this, should i be doing a wipe down of eraser after claying to remove the QD lube polymers before polishing? As i understand it, the polishing process will remove these anyway so unsure if it is a major issue. I never have before and still had success with the polishing process.

Usually i will just wipe up the clay lube with a MF towel and proceed straight to polishing. This time around though, i will be breaking up my decon/polish/coating stages over 3 days.
Day 1 - Wash/Decon
Day 2 - Polish
Day 3 - Coat

So perhaps a wipedown with Eraser on the morning i wish to polish and the morning i wish to coat would be needed to remove the light layer or dust? Something will be needed anyway and as far as i can see it will either be wipe down with Eraser (risk marring) or wipe down with a QD (reintroduce polymers to the surface). The other option is to perform a quick wash with a soap that contains nothing each morning to remove light dust before commencing polishing and coating. Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[The Guz]

It does not take much to remove a coating. A medium cut polish will be fine. If you are removing defects then you more than likely removed the coating. Especially an aged coating. You could polish a year later no problem. It is up to you and how the finish looks. Perfection varies between people.

The thin block is fine.

Save those 365's for polishes. They are great for that. The towels you linked will probably be ok. If Sandro says they are good then get them.

Another option is to include EcH2O and use that as a drying aid and then come back with Elixir monthly. EcH2O is so cheap especially when used at 1:20 as a drying aid. Even the 500ml bottle is economical if just used as a drying aid or waterless wash.

You will enjoy Hyperwash and Reset. Both are great options for a coating.

Go ahead and use D155. You are going to polish anyway. Optional if you want to use Eraser after claying. Wouldn't hurt if you did or didn't use it.

As long as you don't marr the paint wiping off dust with Eraser is fine. Use your plush towels for this like those 365's with almost zero pressure.

One last thing is that Lite has a 4 hour cure time before it can get wet.

After the paint is free of residue, leave to dry for 4 hours prior to getting wet. Any water drops during first 48h should be removed before drying to prevent water spotting. We also recommend the use of CarPro Reload 1 hour after application to protect from water spots during first 48h.

 

[rover137]

Yeah, that is what i thought. I intend on going over the car once every 1-2 years with a finishing polish and pad at least which will hopefully remove whatever is left of the coating and do some slight correction.

I agree, I think the 365s are better reserved for polish removal and i'll give the Blizzards a crack and see how they go.

I actually got in touch with CarPro regarding using EcH2o as a drying aid 1:20 and they recommended not to use it with a coating as it will effect the properties of it. I had read so much about people using it, but yeah, that was their official stance and advice. They said either Reload or Elixir is recommended.

That's what i think too - D155 will be fine cut 1:1 as clay lube if polishing after.

I think removing the dust the day i coat (day after polishing) will be the main challenge. I have some Eagle 350s and 500s i was going to use for my Eraser wipe downs. My paint is very soft so was thinking maybe to just quickly wash it the morning of coating.

I have read that - if i can help it i will leave the car garaged for a minimum of 48 hrs!

 

[The Guz]

I actually got in touch with CarPro regarding using EcH2o as a drying aid 1:20 and they recommended not to use it with a coating as it will effect the properties of it. I had read so much about people using it, but yeah, that was their official stance and advice. They said either Reload or Elixir is recommended.

EcH20 is used by many as a drying aid at that ratio. Reload and Elixir are changing the properties as well as they leave protection behind.

EcH20 is already diluted at such a low concentration and then it’s diluted even more spraying on a wet panel.

Now if the carpro rep meant not to use it right after the coating application as a substitute for reload then yes you don’t use it until the first wash.

Edit; I used EcH2O at 1:20 last week and it was gone after the wash today. So don't expect long durability if used as drying aid at 1:20.

 

[rover137]

Thanks for all your help - much appreciated!

 

[flakpyro]

Do you have any experience correcting missed high spots with lite? I know when i used Gyeon CanCoat back in 2019 doing touch ups down the road was easy and the coating would blend in very well with the surrounding area. With most coatings this does not seem to be the case.

 

[rover137]

Do you have any experience correcting missed high spots with lite? I know when i used Gyeon CanCoat back in 2019 doing touch ups down the road was easy and the coating would blend in very well with the surrounding area. With most coatings this does not seem to be the case.

I have some experience now as I finally got around to doing the coating. It’s was quite forgiving. I saw 3-4 high spots maybe 3-4 hrs after the second coat. I just put some more product on it, wiped off and they were gone. Pretty easy in the end.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk