CarPro Reload - Almost a year of frustration

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EternalEclipse

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Hey guys, new to this forum and hopefully you guys can help me out here!

So almost a year ago, I coated my car with CQUK 3.0. It was a learning experience, but things went pretty smoothly, with no major issues. Washed, chemical decon, clayed and polished the car. Car looked great when I was done.

On the other hand, CarPro Reload has been wildly inconsistent for me. At first, I used the bottle of Reload that came with the CQUK kit, and it seemed great at first, but washing the car a week later, it's performance dropped greatly, I'd say like 70-80% of what it was when I first applied it. The water beading was inconsistent, and water was not being "thrown" off like it was at first. I'd say I used the bottle for 3 months or so, washed the car once a week, and the performance was all over the place. There was times where I feel like it would last just 1 week and I would feel like I need to reapply it. Other times I feel like it would last 3 weeks before I would need to reapply it.

I figured it was just a bad batch of Reload and I would grit my teeth and take a leap of faith and buy a 1L bottle of Reload to see if things would be different. Things were a little better, but I'd say I averaged like 3-4 weeks before I would feel like I need to reapply. It was still pretty disappointing considering how expensive Reload is, and what other products are being offered these days with what seems to be a much better value.

I still have a LOT of Reload left, but I'm already looking around for a replacement that offers more durability and similar characteristics to Reload. I've been looking at Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer since it seems very similar to Reload (I know slickness isn't there with this product, but that isn't a deal breaker for me). Any product suggestions would be appreciated.

I wash my car with Adam's Car Shampoo. The car is outside 24/7. I've read through some posts saying to use CarPro Reset, but will changing my soap actually make that much of a difference? I'm hesitant to buy it mainly because of it's price.

Oddly enough, I don't have any streaking issues with Reload, and I've only had Reload haze up once after applying it. It's just the durability that's been driving me crazy.

I'm losing faith here, can anyone give me some suggestions on what I could be doing to get more out of Reload?
 
Wash with Reset, leaves nothing behind that will change the water behavior.
 
I second to get a small bottle of Reset. And start washing with it and don't apply anything else during the 3-5 first washes. See if you get the behavior CQUK back. The CQUK is great on it's own. It's recommended to use Reload directly after the application of CQUK so it helps it during the 1 week as it takes to fully cure. Cause many experienced water spots if not used the Reload and that's why it got sended with the kit. Otherwise CQUK should holding up great and later down the road as in 6-12 months the Reload would help the coating behavior.

If not you see the coating being revived after the 5th wash or so with Reset. You could do a decon wash. Wash with Reset first and then follow up with TarX and then IronX. The TarX helps to get some parts of Reload desolved and it's some kind of oils they have in Reload that breaks down. Carpro recommend to use TarX if you have used Reload on the coating before you would be applying Carpro Gliss. This is to get the parts of Reload off so Gliss can bond properly. IronX can be helpfull if you have industrial fallout in your environment or have iron particals in the coating. You will see if you get a bleeding effect you have had something that is decrease the coatings behavior.

After this step and if you want some glossenhancing. You could dilute Carpro EcH2O in QD strength. And maybe use your Reload to make the Merlin Elixir with EcH2O. Or if you want to make it easier try out the new Carpro Elixir ready to use QD. And use the product you chose after the wash.
Or maybe top the coating with Gliss or maybe if you have got some fine swirls you could polishing with Carpro Essence Plus and the Glosspad.

Have you done any decon before on the CQUK 3.0? And did you apply 1 layer or 2? What environment do you live in?
 
Thanks for the information! I was hoping I wouldn't have to buy Reset, but that is pretty much the only thing I haven't tried at this point. I guess they really mean it when people say "keep it in the family" when it comes to maintaining a coating!

Before I applied CQUK 3.0, I did a chemical decon, washed the car, followed by clay bar, then polished the car. After polishing, I washed the car down again, dried it and wiped it down with CarPro Eraser before applying CQUK 3.0. I did 2 layers of CQUK 3.0.

I don't live in an environment with a lot of industrial fallout (northern edge of a small city), so I haven't tried to do another chemical decon yet. I might just try to do a chemical decon wash first and see how that goes, since I have a bottle of Optimum FerreX that I haven't used yet (bought it when it was on sale). I hope it is a good enough alternative to Iron X and TarX.

I do have a bottle of EcH2O that I could use and try to make my own Elixir, but I'll worry about that after I figure these issues out with Reload.

At this point, I'm just hoping to avoid buying more products because I don't want to keep throwing money at only potential "solutions" so I'm gonna try a decon wash first since I have the products on hand already. If that doesn't work out, I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and try a bottle of CarPro Reset.
 
Reload sucks. No durability l. In same stratosphere of pricing maybe try Gyeon cure, or shine supply Clutch. Clutch is great if you don’t mind applying, let for 15-60 min and then remove. Last couple of months. If you really want to keep it hydrophobic you’ll spend a little more but bottles will last forever as little go along way.... try kamikaze overcoat or PA cosmic spritz. Videos all over you tube.


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Adams shampoo works just fine as it leaves nothing behind on the surface. I would recommend using Reset at least once a month.

Also CarPro recommends a chemical decon every 3-6 months.

They also recommend using Reload every 3-12 months.

I’m not a big fan of Reload for the fact that it lacks the self cleaning effect and over all water contact angle compared to CQUK 3.0.

The only thing I do use is Ech2o at 1:20 and it as a drying aid from time to time. It does not effect the water behavior of CQUK 3.0 that much compared to Reload.

Try giving Elixir a go. It’s already premixed for you so if you don’t like mixing things up then this fits the bill. Elixir does contain hydro2 unlike the typical version of Merlin’s elixir. Although there is a formula of Merlin’s that incorporates hydro2.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. It seems like I may just need to buy a bottle of Reset to try it! What is it about Reset that is different from other car soaps when it comes to coatings? Sorry, I'm not trying to sound doubtful that it would fix my issues, but it sounds like Reset is some game changer for coatings haha! I just have a gallon of Adam's Car Shampoo that I'm still trying to get through, so that's why I'm little hesitant about buying even more soaps.
 
EternalEclipse said:
Thanks for the suggestions. It seems like I may just need to buy a bottle of Reset to try it! What is it about Reset that is different from other car soaps when it comes to coatings? Sorry, I'm not trying to sound doubtful that it would fix my issues, but it sounds like Reset is some game changer for coatings haha! I just have a gallon of Adam's Car Shampoo that I'm still trying to get through, so that's why I'm little hesitant about buying even more soaps.
Click to expand...

The Guz said that Adams Shampoo leaves nothing behind, so you should be fine using it. The problem with a lot of shampoos is that they leave waxes, polymers or glossing agents on your paint that may interfere with your coatings beading or hampers with the topper (Reload) in your case.
 
I keep asking the question: what’s different between coating car washes vs. car washes like Hyperwash that also leave nothing behind. I’ve never gotten a good answer, so I’m stuck making an assumption that soaps like Reset, PBL Coating Shampoo, and probably new BF Coating Shampoo must clean grime and oils better than your “average” non-gloss car wash like Hyperwash. This could explain why they are meant for coatings... or maybe it’s just marketing and Hyperwash is just as good cleaning. I may never know for sure because I have way too many car washes to go through before I purchase Hyperwash.
 
acuRAS82 said:
I keep asking the question: what’s different between coating car washes vs. car washes like Hyperwash that also leave nothing behind. I’ve never gotten a good answer, so I’m stuck making an assumption that soaps like Reset, PBL Coating Shampoo, and probably new BF Coating Shampoo must clean grime and oils better than your “average” non-gloss car wash like Hyperwash. This could explain why they are meant for coatings... or maybe it’s just marketing and Hyperwash is just as good cleaning. I may never know for sure because I have way too many car washes to go through before I purchase Hyperwash.
Click to expand...

When in doubt head over to CarPro to get more info on Reset

CarPro Reset was formulated as the perfect partner to nanotechnology based sealants and coatings, with cleaning properties tailored to their unique needs. Utilizing Intelligent pH Surfactants, Reset breaks down road grime and traffic films with the power of an alkaline cleaner, whilst being as gentle on the surface as a pH-neutral shampoo. Afterwards Reset quickly rinses free from the surface, leaving behind no soap residues or interfering silicones, and restoring the beading and dirt releasing properties (The ‘Hydrophobic Effect’) of the surface to help maintain its protection. Combined with excellent lubrication, a strong foaming action for improved dirt suspension, and a high dilution ratio, this makes for a highly effective and economical wash. At the same time, Reset is almost entirely based upon naturally occurring, organic ingredients, making it as safe for the environment and for the user as it is for the vehicle. If dirt is hiding the beauty of your car or motorcycle, then you know that it is time for a Reset!

Precautions:
Do Not Ingest
Keep out of reach of children
May degrade organic waxes and polymer sealants
In case of sensitive skin or a pre-existing skin condition, wear protective gloves whilst washing to avoid possible dryness and mild irritation
 
The Guz said:
When in doubt head over to CarPro to get more info on Reset

CarPro Reset was formulated as the perfect partner to nanotechnology based sealants and coatings, with cleaning properties tailored to their unique needs. Utilizing Intelligent pH Surfactants, Reset breaks down road grime and traffic films with the power of an alkaline cleaner, whilst being as gentle on the surface as a pH-neutral shampoo. Afterwards Reset quickly rinses free from the surface, leaving behind no soap residues or interfering silicones, and restoring the beading and dirt releasing properties (The ‘Hydrophobic Effect’) of the surface to help maintain its protection. Combined with excellent lubrication, a strong foaming action for improved dirt suspension, and a high dilution ratio, this makes for a highly effective and economical wash. At the same time, Reset is almost entirely based upon naturally occurring, organic ingredients, making it as safe for the environment and for the user as it is for the vehicle. If dirt is hiding the beauty of your car or motorcycle, then you know that it is time for a Reset!

Precautions:
Do Not Ingest
Keep out of reach of children
May degrade organic waxes and polymer sealants
In case of sensitive skin or a pre-existing skin condition, wear protective gloves whilst washing to avoid possible dryness and mild irritation
Click to expand...

Thanks Guz. I have read that description but didn’t notice the precautions. Thanks to your guidance with bolder text, I can see the strength difference that Reset likely has.

I understand the PBL and BF coating washes are touted as safe for wax and sealants, so they probably aren’t substantial alkaline cleaners... hopefully they do have enough strength to remove some extra grime though.
 
acuRAS82 said:
I keep asking the question: what’s different between coating car washes vs. car washes like Hyperwash that also leave nothing behind. I’ve never gotten a good answer, so I’m stuck making an assumption that soaps like Reset, PBL Coating Shampoo, and probably new BF Coating Shampoo must clean grime and oils better than your “average” non-gloss car wash like Hyperwash. This could explain why they are meant for coatings... or maybe it’s just marketing and Hyperwash is just as good cleaning. I may never know for sure because I have way too many car washes to go through before I purchase Hyperwash.
Click to expand...

The differences are minimal:

Hyperwash:
pH 9-9.5
Anionic surfactant

Reset:
pH 8.5-9
Anionic surfactant
Nonionic surfactant

Generally speaking, hyperwash will have a more detrimental effect on your coating long term, it may also increase the potential for scratching/marring.

Reset is a less alkaline and contains surfactants to specifically help encapsulate dirt and grime (in line with their product description).

Both will clean well, one perhaps too well depending on your coating.

Edit: for those who like to read for themselves (praise)...

MSDS for Hyperwash: https://www.meguiars.com/sites/default/files/pdf/D110 SDS.pdf

MSDS for Reset: https://www.carcarefreaks.eu/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Reset-MSDS.pdf
 
I have read most where hyperwash and other “leaves nothing behind” soaps are Ph neutral. From what I’ve read reset is ph balance (don’t know what difference means) and cleans with the power of alkaline surfactants. Ph neutral soaps (hyperwash, optimum, 3D). will not harm waxes or sealants where as reset May (see guz’s post). I use optimum car soap cuz it’s gentle and then plan on using reset once every 4 washes...


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Coatingsarecrack said:
I have read most where hyperwash and other “leaves nothing behind” soaps are Ph neutral. From what I’ve read reset is ph balance (don’t know what difference means) and cleans with the power of alkaline surfactants. Ph neutral soaps (hyperwash, optimum, 3D). will not harm waxes or sealants where as reset May (see guz’s post). I use optimum car soap cuz it’s gentle and then plan on using reset once every 4 washes...


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Click to expand...

Neither are pH neutral. I just finished covering this.

Also reset is lower alkaline than hyperwash so almost everything you said above is wrong.
 
WristyManchego said:
Neither are pH neutral. I just finished covering this.

Also reset is lower alkaline than hyperwash so almost everything you said above is wrong.
Click to expand...

Sooo i can’t find Mdms on hyperwash and detailed image, amazon and other articles I have read say nothing about the ph level or state it’s neutral. I don’t know you from a talking fart. Instead of sounding matter of fact like you created these soaps how bout some links or posts to back it up. Have you’ve done ph test with strips? for all I know you read this on the back of a cereal box. Not saying your wrong. Just saying provide some proof to your facts when you go around saying people are wrong and try not to off like a pr#ck.... that’s all


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Coatingsarecrack said:
Sooo i can’t find Mdms on hyperwash and detailed image, amazon and other articles I have read say nothing about the ph level or state it’s neutral. I don’t know you from a talking fart. Instead of sounding matter of fact like you created these soaps how bout some links or posts to back it up. Have you’ve done ph test with strips? for all I know you read this on the back of a cereal box. Not saying your wrong. Just saying provide some proof to your facts when you go around saying people are wrong and try not to off like a pr#ck.... that’s all


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Click to expand...

MSDS for Hyperwash: https://www.meguiars.com/sites/default/files/pdf/D110 SDS.pdf

MSDS for Reset: https://www.carcarefreaks.eu/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Reset-MSDS.pdf

Enjoy.
 
Now you may go ahead and call me wrong. Thanks for hyperwash link.


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Coatingsarecrack said:
Now you may go ahead and call me wrong. Thanks for hyperwash link.


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Click to expand...

Already have champ.

The mystery is always the surfactants and where the development time and cost lie.



To the OP: On this lineup I’d suggest trying Reset based on its lower alkalinity and specific surfactants designed to encourage contamination encapsulation. If it looks good after use, perfect.

If cost if your concern, hyperwash be it but be reminded it is a “cruder” wash. It will work well but at a slight knock to your coating longevity (coating dependent).
 
WristyManchego said:
Already have champ.

The mystery is always the surfactants and where the development time and cost lie.



To the OP: On this lineup I’d suggest trying Reset based on its lower alkalinity and specific surfactants designed to encourage contamination encapsulation. If it looks good after use, perfect.

If cost if your concern, hyperwash be it but be reminded it is a “cruder” wash. It will work well but at a slight knock to your coating longevity (coating dependent).
Click to expand...

I agree. Wish they would explain it a little better other than calling it "intelligent pH surfactants" lol. Sounds a bit silly if you ask me. I wonder what qualifies it as "intelligent" haha.

I'm willing to try a bottle of Reset out, it is a little pricey compared to most shampoos out there (thank you Canadian pesos...) But at this point I'm willing to try it and pray for a miracle.
 
EternalEclipse said:
I agree. Wish they would explain it a little better other than calling it "intelligent pH surfactants" lol. Sounds a bit silly if you ask me. I wonder what qualifies it as "intelligent" haha.

I'm willing to try a bottle of Reset out, it is a little pricey compared to most shampoos out there (thank you Canadian pesos...) But at this point I'm willing to try it and pray for a miracle.
Click to expand...

I’m with the majority here, your surface isn’t clean enough and it’s affecting the reload; queue bad hydrophobic performance.

A solid wash and simple QD should bring back the performance of the coating.

Hell if you have an alright wash already and have some APC, run a weak APC pre-soak (10:1 minimum) and good pressure wash working from the bottom up (to not dilute product you want to dwell longer). Give it a wash after and see how it turns out.

Cheaper than purchasing more product.

Companies are only required to list they type of surfactant, not the actual surfactant as its part of what makes a “secret recipe”. You know colonel sanders? He has a surfactant as one of the 11.

Surfactants can run cheap and plenty, right up to advanced and costly.
 
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