Ceramic coat says 2 years but how many miles

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RiverCityAutoSpa

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So I used cquartz UK on a Cadillac CT6 last May at the time it had 950 miles. I did 2 coats and I have been the only detailer to touch it but he's been taking it through the car wash and also having the dealer wash it, obviously I advised against it but I cant force people. When doing the car now it has about 35k miles 14 months later I feel like it needs to be waxed or something the water isnt falling off anymore etc. Coatings generally say 2 years of protection but is that based off of 12k miles per year? Surely mileage has to come into play because that's how it gets exposed.
 
Durability - whether measured in years, miles, etc. is all subjective.

Driving 10,000 miles in the salt & snow is not comparable to 10,000 miles on dry roads. Just like 2 years living next to the ocean with harsh UV, salt, sand, etc. is not the same as 2 years in the Midwest.

Take all of the manufacturer durability ratings with a big asterisk in my opinion.... maintenance is what matters most in prolonging the performance of your coating. Keep it clean, use proper techniques, and proper products.
 
I'd have to agree with Zach. Environment and care over time is the big factor, mileage is irrelevant. In addition to what he already provided, I'd also add a daily driver sitting outside 24/7 that is well cared for by hand will probably do far better over time than one which is driven less and subjected to dealership torture or tunnel-of-swirls car washes.
 
Well that's what I meant by mileage the higher miles the more exposure to whatever it may be. We live close to the ocean so salt and sand for sure. The car sits in a garage overnight but frequent 4-5hr drives over time I feel like the coating is gone
 
The only way to really tell with coatings is to do the baggy test after you iron x and then wash the car. You check the paint after for contaminants, that's the best way to tell If the coating held up or not.
 
Coatings need maintenance and boosters.Carwashes and dealer washing may have ruined it.If you have time wash it with hydro2.
 
RiverCityAutoSpa said:
but he's been taking it through the car wash and also having the dealer wash it
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In my opinion, the only safe way to wash a coated car is,

A: Careful hand wash by someone that cars and has knowledge of how to "touch" car paint.

B: Touchless wash


Here's my article on how to carefully wash a coated car, send the link to this article to your customer.


How to wash a coated car - The Gentle Approach for Washing a Car by Mike Phillips




Here's the deal.... anything abrasive that touches the coating is going to degrade it, that is micro-mar it. The more aggressive the "thing" that "touches" the paint the deeper the marring to the point of micro-scratching.

As soon as the coating is marred and scratches the water beading is going to diminish.


I keep the wife's Mercedes-Benz coated and after washing I do a touch-up with a either coating detailer or a coating booster and the results from my first-hand experience over time is

  1. The car stays clean longer
  2. The car washes faster
  3. The car dries faster
  4. The paint always looks glassy


The above are 4 of the primary benefits (in my opinion) to putting a coating on a car. But it all comes down to what I preach and practice and how long anything on a car lasts comes down to how you "touch" the paint.


Washing is touching the paint.


Also, just to add... in all my detailing classes I cover this topic in-depth, that is the topic of matching your services to your customer and a part of this is when detailing cars for other people the FIRST thing I ask the customer or potential customer is,

How are you going to wash the car?



And that is the most important question for both of you.


Seems simple and it is simple but how car paint looks or how long anything you put on it lasts all comes down to how the car is touched.



:)
 
Yup, everything's been said here! If you are asking because you want to advise the client what to expect, I wouldn't suggest anything mileage or time related. I simply say that my coatings are the most robust protection I offer however the life of all of them (LSP's) depend on care AND use over time. Even if a customer insists on nailing me on a "ball park" estimate of protection I never quote what the manufacturer states...I underestimate. I always explain all of the points brought forth in this thread to make them understand how "IT DEPENDS"!

Plus I always say that if they bring it back to me every time it needs a wash they will get more durability out of it.
 
Agree with all of the responses above...

The only thing I can add is this car sounds like a candidate for some Essence Plus to try and "revive" the CQUK. May be an opportunity to sell another service.
 
It's probably covered in polymers(gloss enhancers) and waxes from the other guys washing it. I would hit it with CarPro Reset, I have revived many coatings doing just that. Doesn't help the physical abuse it received, but it will strip away anything that is typically supposed to be avoided when dealing with a ceramic coating.
 
PouncingPanzer said:
It's probably covered in polymers(gloss enhancers) and waxes from the other guys washing it. I would hit it with CarPro Reset, I have revived many coatings doing just that. Doesn't help the physical abuse it received, but it will strip away anything that is typically supposed to be avoided when dealing with a ceramic coating.
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Try this first.
BadgerRivFan said:
Agree with all of the responses above...

The only thing I can add is this car sounds like a candidate for some Essence Plus to try and "revive" the CQUK. May be an opportunity to sell another service.
Click to expand...
Try this second if the first does not work.
 
BadgerRivFan said:
Agree with all of the responses above...

The only thing I can add is this car sounds like a candidate for some Essence Plus to try and "revive" the CQUK. May be an opportunity to sell another service.
Click to expand...

Would using essence really be reviving the CQUK, or more of a "remove and replace" since its like using an all in one?
 
As Zach pointed out, it is all relative to care. 2 subject perfect example:

- My Sienna was coated 3.5 years ago with CQUK and topped with Reload at time of coating. Has sat outside at least 70% of time last 2.5 years since I moved to NC. All I have really done since then is wash it and a once a year decontamination. It looks amazing!

- I have a customer like you whom I applied CQ Classic to a year ago. Coating is already pretty much dead as he drives his car through the touchless wash twice a week. It is garaged at work and home.
 
My other suggestion is a bit unconventional, but I suggest PInnacle Black Label paint cleanser or McKee 37 paint cleansing lotion. Non-abrasive chemical cleaners, hand apply and let it take off a lot of the stuff on top. If I don't need to polish off the coating with abrasives due to swirls, I'll use a non-abrasive paint cleanser to get a lot of the road film off of it, and it'd bring back the beading in some cases.
 
WillSports3 said:
My other suggestion is a bit unconventional, but I suggest PInnacle Black Label paint cleanser or McKee 37 paint cleansing lotion. Non-abrasive chemical cleaners, hand apply and let it take off a lot of the stuff on top. If I don't need to polish off the coating with abrasives due to swirls, I'll use a non-abrasive paint cleanser to get a lot of the road film off of it, and it'd bring back the beading in some cases.
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When you do this, you use a pretty soft pad like a LC black, correct? I'd think if you used a more aggressive white pad, there would still be enough mechanical work going on to harm the coating. I've actually done minor correction with a white pad and Poorboys Pro Polish, which supposedly doesn't have any abrasives in it.
 
WillSports3 said:
My other suggestion is a bit unconventional, but I suggest PInnacle Black Label paint cleanser or McKee 37 paint cleansing lotion. Non-abrasive chemical cleaners, hand apply and let it take off a lot of the stuff on top. If I don't need to polish off the coating with abrasives due to swirls, I'll use a non-abrasive paint cleanser to get a lot of the road film off of it, and it'd bring back the beading in some cases.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a job for Essence Plus, no?
 
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