Ceramic Coat what to do?

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arthur1920

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Just had my vintage car repainted.
Painter wouldn't wet sand it so that's what I have been doing.

Wet sanded.
Menzerna 1500 on a light cut foam pad
Menserna 4000 on microfiber.
Is it ready to ceramic coat now, after a wipe down with something?


Having done all that I think I should use the opportunity to apply a ceramic coat product. Car is a weekend driver. My goal is reduced maintenance, and paint protection from sap, birds, insects.

Paint is top of the line Martin Seynor 3 coats and then "3 1/2 coats of the best clear", according to painter.

This will be my first try at ceramic coating. So, What is the best ceramic in terms of ease of putting it on right and durability? And what do I need to clean the paint before installation? W and G remover? IPA? Lacquer thinner? Or special product that matches the ceramic brand?

I have been reading the forum extensively-there's a LOT-and now I am thoroughly confused.

Also, I wonder, 2 or 3 yrs down the line how do I reapply the ceramic? Can I just wash the car and put another coat on? I would not like to have to compound and buff the car again to do that.

Also, could someone explain what is meant by a decontamination wash? How is that different from regular washing with a car shampoo?
 
Hi welcome to AutoGeekOnline!

I would finish out with 4000 on a foam polishing pad rather than a microfiber. 90% foam will always finish better than microfiber. After that a good wipe down is necessary.

There are many great paint coatings on the market now. You cant go wrong with your choice.

As for re-applying later on down the road polishing at minimum will be needed before re application.

A decon wash is using a soap that is designed for that purpose rather than just a normal soap. One that comes to mind is CarPro IronX Snow soap.
 
I did my first with Cquartz UK 3.0. Great stuff, been in for a year and still going strong.

How long has it been since paint? Should let it cure for 2 to 3 months before applying anything


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Coatingsarecrack said:
I did my first with Cquartz UK 3.0. Great stuff, been in for a year and still going strong.

How long has it been since paint? Should let it cure for 2 to 3 months before applying anything


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Click to expand...

Paint was done by end of November. Painter said ok to do immediately, wax, compound, whatever.

That said, doesn't paint correction expose "new" paint? That is previously unexposed to atmosphere?
 
there was a comparison test of ceramic coatings on the web and they said "AK" was the best. Anyone agree with that?

TIA
 
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Mike gave you some good advice. There are many coatings available on the market. Most of the reputable brands have established coatings. If you are not ready to try a full blown coating you can start with a coating lite product such as Cquartz Lite or Gyeon CanCoat.

I will expand a little more on the decon wash process. This includes the use of an iron remover, a tar remover if needed and a wash such as CarPro Reset. It will keep the coating as contaminant free as possible.
 
arthur1920 said:
Paint was done by end of November. Painter said ok to do immediately, wax, compound, whatever.

That said, doesn't paint correction expose "new" paint? That is previously unexposed to atmosphere?
Click to expand...

From what i’ve read is paint needs time to off gas. Coating would in a sense seal the paint. I would guess if it was done in November it’s done all the off gassing needed. Removing a microscopic layer shouldn’t change any of that but i’m no painter.


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arthur1920 said:
Just had my vintage car repainted.
Painter wouldn't wet sand it so that's what I have been doing.

Wet sanded.
Menzerna 1500 on a light cut foam pad
Menserna 4000 on microfiber.
Is it ready to ceramic coat now, after a wipe down with something?


Having done all that I think I should use the opportunity to apply a ceramic coat product. Car is a weekend driver. My goal is reduced maintenance, and paint protection from sap, birds, insects.

Paint is top of the line Martin Seynor 3 coats and then "3 1/2 coats of the best clear", according to painter.
Click to expand...


Congratulations on the new paint job on the VINTAGE car. So now I'm curious.... what is the car?

Picture?


Also - did you get out 100% of the sanding marks using a light cut foam pad?



arthur1920 said:
This will be my first try at ceramic coating. So, What is the best ceramic in terms of ease of putting it on right and durability?
Click to expand...

For ease of application - right now I'd say the new Wolfgang Uber Spray Si02 Coating. I have a longevity test going on here but it will be at least 6 months before we'll see anything substantial for degradation. But it's sure easy to use.


Real World Ceramic Coating Test by Mike Phillips





For a conventional ceramic coating, that is the tiny glass bottle, foam block and microfiber suede patch of cloth - then as long as you pick an reputable established brand you can't go wrong. They all do what they advertise.

The REAL KEY to getting anything, a coating, wax or synthetic paint sealant to LAST a LONG time comes down to.......................... how you touch the paint. Read through these two articles...


How long will a ceramic coating last on my car?

How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach




arthur1920 said:
And what do I need to clean the paint before installation? W and G remover? IPA? Lacquer thinner? Or special product that matches the ceramic brand?
Click to expand...

I tend to be a "Systems Guy", you can read what I mean about that here,

Synergistic Chemical Compatibility by Mike Phillips

So once you choose a brand of coating, see if that brand also has a panel wipe and go with it.

Remember - you need to wait 30 days before wiping fresh paint with a solvent. It's simply not a good practice. I think I share why in the first portion of this article,


How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

Gosh - hard to believe I wrote the above article 10 years ago....



arthur1920 said:
I have been reading the forum extensively-there's a LOT-and now I am thoroughly confused.
Click to expand...

But keep in mind, having too many choices is a good problem to have - I remember when we only had a few choices, (like when it comes to polishers), and then people complained. :)




arthur1920 said:
Also, I wonder, 2 or 3 yrs down the line how do I reapply the ceramic? Can I just wash the car and put another coat on? I would not like to have to compound and buff the car again to do that.
Click to expand...

The only way to 100% insure 100% of the previously applied coating has been removed is to machine polish the paint. You probably or shouldn't have to COMPOUND the paint but polish for sure. But keep in mind, after 2-3 years you're going to NEED and WANT to machine polish, get everything OFF the paint and get down to a fresh base. Plus you'll have created some level of swirls and scratches by then so polishing will return a true show car finish to your vintage car.



arthur1920 said:
Also, could someone explain what is meant by a decontamination wash? How is that different from regular washing with a car shampoo?
Click to expand...


Here's one way to chemically decontaminate a car or a decontamination wash.

SONAX Fallout Remover - How to chemically decontaminate paint before restoring a show car finish by Mike Phillips


This is just an old 2-door Oldsmobile....

SONAX_Fallout_004.JPG







It's different than a normal wash in that ti removes iron contamination and in the case of the SONAX product, it removes a wide spectrum of pollution and contamination. It's not just focused on iron.







:)
 
it's a 1966, xke

here's a new thought. I have to take the car back to painter to repair center panel of bonnet. Should I put spray SiO2 on it to protect it or should I use just simple wax like Colinite that will be easy to remove with a solvent wipe in case I get some marks on the other painted panels?
 
arthur1920 said:
it's a 1966, xke
Click to expand...

Nice.


arthur1920 said:
here's a new thought. I have to take the car back to painter to repair center panel of bonnet.

Should I put spray SiO2 on it to protect it or should I use just simple wax like Colinite that will be easy to remove with a solvent wipe in case I get some marks on the other painted panels?
Click to expand...

When are you going to have it back on the road?

If it were me, I would do all the sanding and polishing but skip sealing the paint until all the paint work is done and she's ready for the road.

Nothing is going to "attack" the paint like a bird dropping or water sprinkler drops if the car is inside all the time..

I would not be in a hurry to seal the paint, wait until all the fresh paint work is done, then do the sealing work.

She should look great after all the body shop safe polishing work.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Nice.




When are you going to have it back on the road?

If it were me, I would do all the sanding and polishing but skip sealing the paint until all the paint work is done and she's ready for the road.

Nothing is going to "attack" the paint like a bird dropping or water sprinkler drops if the car is inside all the time..

I would not be in a hurry to seal the paint, wait until all the fresh paint work is done, then do the sealing work.

She should look great after all the body shop safe polishing work.


:)
Click to expand...

My feeling is that I want to protect the paint that is not being redone to protect against any accidental brushing against or 'stuff happening" at the body shop. And also, from myself installing the next 2,000 parts that have to go on it.

Also, I think it makes sense to seal the paint while I don't have the chrome or weatherstripping in the way.
 
PS:

I did reply to your question about light cut pad and sanding scratches but, don't see it posted. I probably hit the wrong button.

The answer is I sanded 1500 on some scratches, 2000 everywhere then 2500 then, 3000 Trizact foam. So except for those scratches that would not go away the light cut worked ok if I could get to the scratches. Sometimes I had to repeat the light pad work, and sometimes I had to go back to 3000, then light cut again. Scratches on edges or where the metal contour made a 5.5 in pad not touch them were tackled with a 3 inch Griot's orange pad on their little machine, and if that didn't get into it I used the 3 in pad on a finger tip velcro holder.....and if I still couldn't get to those visible but not fingernail scratches....I gave up. I have a couple of places I just couldn't perfect, or wasn't brave enough to go harder. Not too many.
 
arthur1920 said:
My feeling is that I want to protect the paint that is not being redone to protect against any accidental brushing against or 'stuff happening" at the body shop. And also, from myself installing the next 2,000 parts that have to go on it.

Also, I think it makes sense to seal the paint while I don't have the chrome or weatherstripping in the way.
Click to expand...

Makes sense - so go for it.

As for the area that's going to be repaint, no matter what you put on their, your painter is going to "prep" that and my guess that means sanding so whatever is applied will be sanded off.

Tell him no matter what though he's in the loop. The paint sanded off will be "contaminants" in his shop but this is not new to any body shop painter.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Makes sense - so go for it.

As for the area that's going to be repaint, no matter what you put on their, your painter is going to "prep" that and my guess that means sanding so whatever is applied will be sanded off.

Tell him no matter what though he's in the loop. The paint sanded off will be "contaminants" in his shop but this is not new to any body shop painter.


:)
Click to expand...

Right, not doing the center panel.

So, which makes sense for the rest of the car?
You're saying I will have to polish when I get the car back anyway? Or would the WG spray ceramic prevent contaminants from getting into the paint and just need to hit it with their cleaner?View attachment 69165View attachment 69166

That's about as good as I can get it.
 
arthur1920 said:
So, which makes sense for the rest of the car?

You're saying I will have to polish when I get the car back anyway?
Click to expand...

My experience in the world is no one is ever as careful with my car as I am. I think this holds true for everyone else and their car too. If your car is at any shop for more than a couple of day, there is always the risk it's going to see "something". Maybe someone wipes some dust off a fender? That's going to scratch it.

So yeah, if it were me? Go ahead and do your sanding and buffing, get the car as perfect as you can, then send her back to the body shop. Make sure your painter and all his staff understand how much work you have into the reuslts thus far and then cross your fingers.

When you get the car back, visually inspect the car for any marring

Marring = the kind fluffy way to say scratching

And also do the Baggie Test. And read my article here,


The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop by Mike Phillips





arthur1920 said:
Or would the WG spray ceramic prevent contaminants from getting into the paint and just need to hit it with their cleaner?
Click to expand...


I think the Wolfgang Uber Spray Si02 Ceramic Coating will do as good of a job as any quality ceramic coating to make the surface slipper and thus less prone to marring but I don't believe ANY brand of ANYTHING can 100% prevent marring when a car is at any kind of shop with multiple employees working i and around the car. It's just the nature of the beast.


If it were me, I would expect to have to clay the entire car after it comes back from the painter. And my rule is, if I'm going to use clay or a clay substitute on car paint I'm already planning on doing at least one machine polishing step.

So if it were me, I would do all the sanding, compounding and polishing, but I would STOP after the polishing step and wait to go further until the car comes back from the body shop. Then inspect, clay if you have to, re-polish the entire car, the chemically strip and the coat.


Do it once the right way and save yourself from anger and frustration when you get the car back only to discover marring here and there and overpsray or dry spray all over the paint you already perfected.



:)
 
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